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All about the sparkle..

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andrewmcdonald

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jul 3, 2006
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Hi there

I''ve been very impressed by the quality of discussion and articles on this site, there are obviously some very informed people posting here who are passionate about the little pieces of crushed carbon we call diamonds, and willing to educate anyone who will let them! I have a few questions, which I will post separately, to avoid going off topic in either of them. So without further ado..

I may be in the market for an engagement ring in the next 12 months, so have been doing some research. Whilst I wouldn''t consider myself completely uneducated on this subject, I think this particular piece of jewelry deserves more than a cursory reading!

To sum up, the design of ring that my girlfriend prefers is ''elegant design, subtle, and not what everyone else has''. Without intending to name drop the designs that we have both fallen in love with are the ''Japanese'' stlye flowing rings. (another post to follow on this subject) These generally are aimed at around a 0.5-0.7ct stone, and the design I will most likely get will allow for at most around a 1.25ct stone. This suits my gf, who does not want a (Manhattan style) ''Look At Me'' sized ring on her relatively slim fingers. (US size 5 I think) She would happily go for a 0.7ct, however the actual choice of ring/bands/stone is up to me, and will be a surprise. (as will the timing!)
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On to the hard part! As i''ve alluded to above, we both prefer what I''d call ''sparkle'' over size, and the maximum size is limited by the ring. With this in mind, I was thinking of going for a ~1.25ct D, VVS1, VG cut stone. Now, I don''t mind going for IF over VVS1, or Ideal/Signature Ideal (on Blue Nile) over VG cut if this will make a difference to how it looks. To a certain degree I''d quite like the ''purest possible'' stone, but at the end of the day I''m more concerned with how it looks to the naked eye, when walking under the kitchen lights, into a store with nice lighting, sunlight, how it catches her eye when walking down the street, her friends'' comments when seen under the lights at the bar etc. (the sparkle!)

Right, a few questions. I''ll try to keep this short, as it''s already longer than I intended!

1. Cut
Whilst reading the forums, it strikes me the regular posters value cut over the other cs, at least once you''re talking above a certain level of the other 3. Am I right in thinking that this is the best place to go for ''the top'' criteria in order to have the greatest effect on the naked eye?

2. H&A, Eight Star, etc.
My understanding is that a diamond with a sufficiently good cut (e.g. ideal) and negligable inclusions (e.g. VVS1) should refract enough light to 1. sparkle to the naked eye, and 2. exhibit symmetry that creates a typical pattern under a microscope, e.g. the ''hearts or eight star'' patterns. Are the H&A, Eight Star brands simply marketing, or would, say, a H&A VVS1 D Ideal cut be genuinely nicer to the eye than a ''normal'' VVS1 D Ideal cut stone? (or any less sparkly than e.g. a Blue Nile signature ideal, or some other ''top 1% of cut'' diamond)

3. Certifications
I may be opening a can of worms here, but here goes. Until recently I wasn''t aware of AGSL, and thought GIA was the ''standard''. (I believe in the US AGSL is more commonly used than in Europe). I have read elsewhere on this forum a number of (lengthy) posts about GIA reports in 2006, and the controversy there. I was thinking of getting a stone online, or at least purchasing the stone unseen (more on this in another post!), in which case I would expect to see a certificate to 1. ensure the criteria I asked for are indeed satisfied, and 2. to do any further comparisons between 2 stones of the same cs. I was (naively?) hoping an ''ideal cut GIA'' diamond would indeed be ''ideal''. Further to the other posts, it looks like there is quite some variance within the category of ''ideal'', and which motivates comparisons of the actual angles/measurements involved. Blue Nile (sorry for the name dropping!) sets their ''Signature Ideal'' cut as 60.1-61.9% depth and table of 55-57%. Would this be a good sub-range to look for within any ''ideal'' GIA cuts that I find on other sites? I also understand the AGSL reports grade differently - is an AGS0 the creme de la creme, and comparable to e.g. the Signature Ideal, or other such ''top 1%'' of rocks?

4. law of diminishing returns
(please bear with me here!) I imagine the gradings of each of the Cs will be quasi logarithmic, by which I mean given (e.g.) 10 gradings, the gradings from best to worst do not cover 10%, 10%, 10%, .... 10%, but more like 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.1%, 1%, 10%, etc of stones by quantity. This is clearest to see in carat weight, i.e. a 2 carat is rarer/more expensive than two 1 carat stones. However, I imagine it also applies at the top end of the scale in colour, clarity, etc, where upgrading from (say) an F to an E/D or from VVS2 to VVS1/IF has a large effect on the price, but little effect on the noticeable appearance of the stone. (in marked contrast to going from say I1 to SI1, or K to G) Are there ''universally accepted'' levels, e.g. F, VVS2 where subsequent increases fail to be noticeable to the naked eye or even the untrained eye with a scope? (and where any further improvements are simply for the knowledge that you have an XXX stone?)


Right. At the end of the day, I suspect I will wander over to 47th Street (NY) and spend an afternoon comparing stones, as opposed to window shopping and avoiding the bouncers trying to usher me into every store. However, before I venture that far, I thought I''d get some informed advice from yourselves! Apologies for the lengthy post!

Thanks
A.
 
Date: 7/4/2006 12:08:35 PM
Author:I Like Sparklee
1. Cut
Am I right in thinking that this is the best place to go for ''the top'' criteria in order to have the greatest effect on the naked eye? YES


2. H&A, Eight Star, etc.
Are the H&A, Eight Star brands simply marketing, or would, say, a H&A VVS1 D Ideal cut be genuinely nicer to the eye than a ''normal'' VVS1 D Ideal cut stone? (or any less sparkly than e.g. a Blue Nile signature ideal, or some other ''top 1% of cut'' diamond) DEPENDS ON YOUR PERSONAL TASTE. WHEN YOU"RE COMPARING AMONGST THE TOP 1% ... HOW "WRONG" COULD IT BE??


3. Certifications
I DON''T EVEN UNDERSTAND YOUR QUESTIONS HERE. ASK MARA WHAT HER IDEAL CUT "SWEET SPOT" IS & THEN BUY ACCORDINGLY. IF I WAS SHOPPING FOR A ROUND, THAT''S WHAT I WOULD DO.


4. law of diminishing returns
Are there ''universally accepted'' levels, e.g. F, VVS2 where subsequent increases fail to be noticeable to the naked eye or even the untrained eye with a scope? (and where any further improvements are simply for the knowledge that you have an XXX stone?) NOPE. IT''S ALL PERSONAL. EVERONE HAS DIFFERENT "COLOR" & CLARITY TOLERANCES & SENSITIVITIES. "Average", yes ... "Universally Accepted", nope.

I will wander over to 47th Street (NY) and spend an afternoon comparing stones,

Have fun!
 
You''ve got plenty of time to get educated. I started a week or two ago and from PS I already know a lot more than a lot of jewelers out there (I think...). Anyways, here''s 2cents from a newbie.

1. Cut -- everyone around here stresses cut. Btw, we''re talking round briliants right? AGS Ideal or AGS 000 comes at a premium but it''s pretty reliable. GIA ideal cut is great but still less reliable -- if you read PS on Holloway Cut Advisor, it''ll show that some GIA Ideals aren''t so great. So buying a GIA ideal cut without seeing the proportions on the GIA cert online is risky. Hearts&Arrows refers to an even higher standard where they are all AGS000, I believe, but on top of that they show these awesome hearts and arrows under special scopes --see whiteflash.com for great pictures.

2. H&A, etc. Even the experts on this forum were talking recently about going to goodoldgold GOG''s brick and mortar store and looking at the premium cut diamonds and not being able to tell the difference consistently.

3. GIA is good but you have to see the proportions on the cert. AGSL ideal, it seems to me, you could almost buy it sight unseen and be satisfied. EGL and IGI are looked down on, because they have are less reliable -- so if you bought a D color, it might be an E or F to someone else, and you would have just paid a big premium for the D. That''s why EGL and IGI are discounted. FYI, a lots of mall jewelry stores carry IGI...

4. Go to a brick and mortar and ask to see different colors and cuts. People often group DEF as colorless, GH as near colorless, and IJ as noticeably yellow. You can''t tell color well unless you put two diamonds side by side, upside down on a white surface under neutral lighting. I couldn''t tell F and H from the face of the diamond yesterday at the store. So many people draw the line at G or H. Clarity: SI-1 means an expert can see with the naked eye an inclusion while looking down through the top of the diamond. From my limited experience, most SI-1''s, I can see the inclusion with my naked eye, looking from the sides or the bottom, and that bothers me enough not to get SI-1. Sometimes you can ask the jeweler if it''s "eyeclean" meaning, maybe the inclusion is hidden in the corner or it''s clear and hard to find, but you need to specifiy from what angles they are talking about. I am drawing the line at VS2 because I don''t want to see a big black inclusion ever, and I plan to resist looking at the diamond under a loupe at home. Lotsa people are ok with SI-1 and some feel that it makes their diamond unique.

Read up on fluorescence.

If you don''t go for a round brilliant, it''s a lot harder to shop online because you really need to see the diamond. There are a couple online jewelers that seem to be highly regarded by PSers. From what I''ve read, you can get great customer service from a few of these guys and if you trust them, they''ll look out for you.

There are price increases when you get to 1 carat, and 1.5 carats, so if you''re flexible you can go right under those cutoffs to save a premium.
 
Date: 7/4/2006 12:08:35 PM
Author:I Like Sparklee

4. law of diminishing returns
(please bear with me here!) I imagine the gradings of each of the Cs will be quasi logarithmic, by which I mean given (e.g.) 10 gradings, the gradings from best to worst do not cover 10%, 10%, 10%, .... 10%, but more like 0.001%, 0.01%, 0.1%, 1%, 10%, etc of stones by quantity. This is clearest to see in carat weight, i.e. a 2 carat is rarer/more expensive than two 1 carat stones. However, I imagine it also applies at the top end of the scale in colour, clarity, etc, where upgrading from (say) an F to an E/D or from VVS2 to VVS1/IF has a large effect on the price, but little effect on the noticeable appearance of the stone. (in marked contrast to going from say I1 to SI1, or K to G) Are there ''universally accepted'' levels, e.g. F, VVS2 where subsequent increases fail to be noticeable to the naked eye or even the untrained eye with a scope? (and where any further improvements are simply for the knowledge that you have an XXX stone?)
if you show me a top ideal cut 3ct F VS1 mounted on a ring,i wouldn''t be able to see the difference between a D IF but, if you had a D color for me to compare side by side then "maybe"
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if you show me G-K color range then "yes" i would be able too see the difference between any 2 higher/lower color grades. i.e... G and I color.
 
Congratulations on the step you''re about to take!!

Buying my stone and ring was really fun. Learning all about the stones was even more fun (ok, I''m a bit of a wonk
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).

You''re asking really good questions.

1.) Yes. Cut is more important than anything else up to a point. My personal cut off point is J or K for color, and an eye clean SI2, as long as the jeweler tells me it''s really eye clean. You can have a D, FL, and if it''s poorly cur, it will not sparkle, or be worth the money you''d pay for those kinds of specs. On the other hand, you can have a K, SI2, perfectly cut, that is more beautiful, interesting and unique than any average cut E or F, VVS1. Then again, everybody has such personal tolerances for these things ("It''s harder to find a mind clean stone than an eye clean one..."). Being a size-whore myself, I''m much happier with a big stone, lower color and lower clarity, but it MUST be perfectly cut in order for me to be happy with it.

2.) The arrows are very visible to the naked eye (the hearts not so much without a scope,especially after setting). They create a discernable (to the naked eye) pattern of contrast (where the dark reflections bounce back out at your eye from the pavilion and through the table). An ideally cut, not-hearts-and-arrows, would probably have more of a chaotic look of light bouncing back at you from crushed ice, with no discernable pattern (those more knowledgable than I should correct me if I''m wrong here). A true H&A is incredible to my eye. I''ve never seen an 8-star.


my kids just came home, I''ve run out of time, sorry...gotta go watch Germany v. Italy soccer.

All I can say is go look. If you can go out to Long Island, make an appointment to go to Good Old Gold. You will see the unbelievable difference between well cut diamonds and average. You will also get a sens for your preference for color and clarity.

Good luck. And you do know, when all is said and done, we hope you provide pictures of anything you end up buying.

Good luck.

Best,
LizzyD
 
Thanks for the replies so far. The tutorial over on www.goodoldgold.com goes intp much more detail than any I had read before, and it turns out the ''sparkle'' I want is scintillation. I feel more educated now, and will keep on looking!
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Yeah I am buying a princess cut diamond online and I am having a difficult time. I may just buy an AGS ideal to save myself some trouble even if it is a little more costly. I wish my gf would have said she wanted a round brilliant. May have been easier. These are the three diamonds I''m considering. They''re all about $5,500 to $6,000. I''m most worried about the cut and I am not sure which is best (small table?). I too like the sparkly. Any thoughts?

d: 66.8 72.3 74.3
T: 73 72 67
S: VG VG VG
P: VG VG VG
G: M-Thk SThk-Thk Med-Thk F
C: None None None
C: F F E
C: VS1 VVS2 VS1
Sq: 1.01 1.00 1.02
Ct: 1.05 1.01 1.04
 
if she wants what no none else has, how about a PEAR?

yeah, a pear. lovely, they were real popular during the sixties.
 
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