katrina_33
Shiny_Rock
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2004
- Messages
- 445
So, we got down to the nitty gritty with respect to the ring. My boyfriend says he won't be buying from an online vendor, won't be taking me shopping with him for input, and will be going through a diamond guy who sold his friend his fiances ring (whichI actually really like). Still, the control freak / budget conscious person in me is going NUTS! I've done SO much research here that I know he's not willing to replicate! So, at his request, I have written up this document with guidelines. He needs it as simple as possible. I'd love everyone's input! Here's the doc, let me know if I left out anything key. I made a synopsis for him at top, followed by a breakdown.
THE REALLY SHORT VERSION (but also please read and see pics below):
My ideal ring would be: 1.5 ish carat center round diamond, H color, eye clean SI1 clarity, AGS 0 ideal cut with a strong H&A pattern, very lively and sparkly (duh!), platinum, size 6 or 6.25, interesting design, either encircled by a “halo” of little diamonds, or on a band that’s covered with tiny diamonds, either way with 4 prongs. Never buy anything that’s pre-set (this means the whole ring, pre-fabricated). You want to get the diamond separately even if from the same person. You’ll look at them loose and under magnification, etc, and then pick the setting and have a version of the setting made to accommodate the center stone you pick.
Diamonds:
1) Carat – Round brilliant diamond, 1 – 2 carats with 1.25 – 1.75 being my preference.
2) Color –F-I range, but with G or H being the ideal balance of quality/value. Faint or medium blue fluorescence isn’t a bad thing.
3) Clarity – VS2 – SI2 with an “eye clean” SI1 being ideal balance of quality / value for me because you won’t see anything with your naked eye. Not all SI1’s are eye clean – make sure inclusions are white not black, off to the side, don’t break the surface, and aren’t visible to the naked eye unless you know where to look and really stare into it.
4) Cut – this is the tricky one, and it’s VERY important, because cut is what makes the stone sparkle. There are great tutorials at pricescope.com, I would encourage you to read up on the basics there. Honestly, if it were me, I’d buy a stone from www.whiteflash.com or www.goodoldgold.com. They’re both totally legitimate businesses that have been around for a long time, with really picky, loyal clients from all over. They specialize in super ideal cuts and have a lot of info to back it up, and you wouldn’t have to pay tax. It’s foolproof, and I think you’d get a better diamond for less $. I would always recommend that you at least price compare on www.pricescope.com to make sure a local store’s markup isn’t totally heinous.
If going locally, ask for an “AGS 0” with “Ideal” polish and symmetry, that exhibits a near perfect “hearts and arrows” pattern. Any stone should be certified by the GIA or AGS only (NOT EGL). AGS provides more cut quality info on their certificates, so it is preferable. Try to get several in at once to compare as there are subtle differences. Look at them in lots of light conditions – EVERYTHING looks gangbusters under bright jewelry store lighting. Make them show you the stones in natural daylight, flourescent office lighting, darker light, etc to make sure it still looks sparkly as hell!
Settings:
1) Platinum, size 6 or 6.25. Good ones will be between $1500 and $3000. Anything more is totally excessive - but I don’t have to tell you that!
2) I would want something delicate, but that makes the stone “pop” and stand out as much as possible and is kind of interesting, design wise. The two different styles I like can be summed up as:
a) “halo rings”, where the center is encircled by a thin “halo” of tiny diamonds. The more delicate and less chunky the “halo” the better. Also, I don’t like ones that are “bezel set” with no prongs holding the stone. All of the examples below have little tiny prongs holding the center stone up.
b) Rings with “pave” or “eternity” bands, where the band is covered in tiny stones, with not a lot of metal showing. 4 prongs, or “split prongs” r best.
3) Some good local jewelry stores (but probably really expensive) are Peter Norman, Phillip Press, and 23rd Street Jewelers.
4) Ask whether a wedding band will be able to sit somewhat flush with the engagement ring. It doesn’t have to be a set that is made to really “lock in”, but I wouldn’t want a HUGE gap either.
THE REALLY SHORT VERSION (but also please read and see pics below):
My ideal ring would be: 1.5 ish carat center round diamond, H color, eye clean SI1 clarity, AGS 0 ideal cut with a strong H&A pattern, very lively and sparkly (duh!), platinum, size 6 or 6.25, interesting design, either encircled by a “halo” of little diamonds, or on a band that’s covered with tiny diamonds, either way with 4 prongs. Never buy anything that’s pre-set (this means the whole ring, pre-fabricated). You want to get the diamond separately even if from the same person. You’ll look at them loose and under magnification, etc, and then pick the setting and have a version of the setting made to accommodate the center stone you pick.
Diamonds:
1) Carat – Round brilliant diamond, 1 – 2 carats with 1.25 – 1.75 being my preference.
2) Color –F-I range, but with G or H being the ideal balance of quality/value. Faint or medium blue fluorescence isn’t a bad thing.
3) Clarity – VS2 – SI2 with an “eye clean” SI1 being ideal balance of quality / value for me because you won’t see anything with your naked eye. Not all SI1’s are eye clean – make sure inclusions are white not black, off to the side, don’t break the surface, and aren’t visible to the naked eye unless you know where to look and really stare into it.
4) Cut – this is the tricky one, and it’s VERY important, because cut is what makes the stone sparkle. There are great tutorials at pricescope.com, I would encourage you to read up on the basics there. Honestly, if it were me, I’d buy a stone from www.whiteflash.com or www.goodoldgold.com. They’re both totally legitimate businesses that have been around for a long time, with really picky, loyal clients from all over. They specialize in super ideal cuts and have a lot of info to back it up, and you wouldn’t have to pay tax. It’s foolproof, and I think you’d get a better diamond for less $. I would always recommend that you at least price compare on www.pricescope.com to make sure a local store’s markup isn’t totally heinous.
If going locally, ask for an “AGS 0” with “Ideal” polish and symmetry, that exhibits a near perfect “hearts and arrows” pattern. Any stone should be certified by the GIA or AGS only (NOT EGL). AGS provides more cut quality info on their certificates, so it is preferable. Try to get several in at once to compare as there are subtle differences. Look at them in lots of light conditions – EVERYTHING looks gangbusters under bright jewelry store lighting. Make them show you the stones in natural daylight, flourescent office lighting, darker light, etc to make sure it still looks sparkly as hell!
Settings:
1) Platinum, size 6 or 6.25. Good ones will be between $1500 and $3000. Anything more is totally excessive - but I don’t have to tell you that!
2) I would want something delicate, but that makes the stone “pop” and stand out as much as possible and is kind of interesting, design wise. The two different styles I like can be summed up as:
a) “halo rings”, where the center is encircled by a thin “halo” of tiny diamonds. The more delicate and less chunky the “halo” the better. Also, I don’t like ones that are “bezel set” with no prongs holding the stone. All of the examples below have little tiny prongs holding the center stone up.
b) Rings with “pave” or “eternity” bands, where the band is covered in tiny stones, with not a lot of metal showing. 4 prongs, or “split prongs” r best.
3) Some good local jewelry stores (but probably really expensive) are Peter Norman, Phillip Press, and 23rd Street Jewelers.
4) Ask whether a wedding band will be able to sit somewhat flush with the engagement ring. It doesn’t have to be a set that is made to really “lock in”, but I wouldn’t want a HUGE gap either.
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