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Advice on my princess cut dilemma?

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mjl5007

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 22, 2009
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First, I''ll say "Hello!"
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to everyone as I''m a brand new member. I''ve been browsing and reading for the past couple of days and figured I might as well join up. Everything I''ve read so far as been an immense help but, this being my first diamond purchase, I''m hoping I can get a little bit more advice...

I''m shopping for a princess cut around 3/4ct for my girlfriend of over 5 years (high school sweethearts). We''re both just a year out of college and although I''m very fortunate to be gainfully employed, I''ve also got a mortgage, student loans, etc, so I''m on somewhat of a budget. My girl and I have been shopping together casually so I have an idea of what she likes; in fact, she all but picked out her own ring, one that she really liked from a mall retailer, and although the price was affordable at just $2k, I wasn''t terribly impressed with stone and felt it was way too easy (I hadn''t done any work!), so I want to put in the time and effort to get her something better.

I''ve found another setting that''s very similar that I''m sure she''ll love at a local independent jeweler. He also has a .73ct, E, SI2 stone with an EGL cert that seems very well cut (sparkles and shines the best out of all the diamonds I''ve seen), for which he originally quoted me $2700 not including the setting; would''ve been $3200 total for stone and ring. I told him that was a bit higher than I was looking to pay, and asked him about some other stones I had seen listed on his website with very similar credentials but much lower prices (sub-$2k). He said the difference in price was due to the lesser-quality cut of those stones, but I asked him to bring one in for me to compare for good measure. A few days later he came back and said that it would be next week before he could get more stones in, but that he was willing to give me the original stone and the ring for just under $2700 total which he said was only $100 above his cost. I went in to look at it in more detail, and when I took a look at the certificate, I was a little disappointed; there are at least two long white feathers, both starting at the center and one of which goes nearly all the way to the outer edge, as well as a few other small specks throughout (it is an SI2 after all). I asked for a loupe and sure enough, they are very easily visible with it, although I couldn''t see them at all without the loupe; jewelry store bright lighting probably made the darn thing sparkle enough to cover them up. While the price was much better than he originally quoted and was only a little bit higher than my ideal budget of $2500, I''m still not sure how I feel about such large inclusions, even though I couldn''t see them without the loupe.

I''m a very conscious buyer and I want to be sure I''m getting my money''s worth, as well as a quality stone. I realize that with the budget I''m under I can''t expect miracles, but from looking around at the online diamond places like Blue Nile, Union Diamond, and USAcerteddiamonds.com, it seems that I can get a "better" stone for right around $1900-2000. The price tag on the setting at the jeweler''s is $500, so my total cost would probably end up right around the same ($2600-ish) but with a much better quality stone. I''d certainly be willing to go to an F color in order to bring up the clarity to at least SI1 if not VS2. I found an EGL certified stone through usacerteddiamonds.com with the following specs for under $1900:

- .73 ct
- Color: F
- Clarity: VS2
- Depth: 72.5%
- Table: 72.0%
- Crown: 10%
- Pavilion: 60%
- Symmetry: Very Good
- Polish: Very Good
- Girdle: Thin, Polished
- Culet: None
- Fluorescence: None
- Can''t see any inclusion marks on the certificate drawing (electronic version is somewhat small, though)

I realize that with princess cuts, the numbers alone aren''t generally enough to tell how good the cut is, but these numbers seem to fit with some of the suggestions I''ve read. Unfortunately I don''t live anywhere near any independent appraisers in order to have the stone shipped there to inspect before buying, so I''d be forced to buy it, look at it when it arrived, and ship it back myself if it turned out not to be a good stone. The other thing I''m concerned about is how the jeweler will react if I come in with my own stone and ask him to put it in the setting rather than the stone he offered me.

Should I consider getting a hold of one of these "nicer" stones online, or am I just being way too picky and should just take the stone the jeweler has? I apologize for the novel... trying to get in as much about my situation as I can! Thanks in advance to everyone for whatever advice you can impart upon me! This place is great!
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Hi mjl and welcome!

I think it would definitely be worth looking online, it doesn't sound as if you are all that enamoured of the diamond the jeweller showed you and you may be aware that EGL are said to grade leniently in some circumstances compared to the top two labs GIA and AGS. You probably know that a great cut is essential to give the diamond life and beauty, so you end up with a gorgeous rock you can both be proud of! With the numbers all those give you are a chalk outline of the stone, so really images of the diamond in question are essential especially if you can't see it with your own eyes.

Would you like us to look for some diamonds online which might suit you? With the setting it might be possible to find something similar online also if you can describe it?

When buying online it is best to stick to vendors who have in house Princess either of AGS0 cut quality and or hand selected GIA Princess. AGS are currently the only lab to grade Princess for cut quality. Popular vendors for Princess are -

www.highperformancediamonds.com

www.goodoldgold.com

www.briangavindiamonds.com

www.whiteflash.com

www.exceldiamonds.com
 
Talk about quick response!

I wouldn''t say that I''m not "all that enamored" with the diamond he showed me; it indeed is a very nice looking diamond to the naked eye, very brilliant and sparkly. I guess it''s more of a mental thing for me, knowing that those relatively large inclusions are there, even if you need a loupe to see them. I''m not going for perfection by any means, but if I can get a "better" stone for my money, I''d certainly like to do that. "Better" obviously being subjective since I would likely have to sacrifice in color or elsewhere, but whereas I''ll definitely be able to see the difference between an SI2 and SI1 or VS2 as far as the inclusions being much smaller/harder to see even with a loupe, it would be much harder to tell the difference between an E and an F, or perhaps even a G.

As for looking for and suggesting some diamonds, I''m certainly not going to complain!
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The ring... it''s a 14k white gold solitaire with what I believe is a "basket" mount, 4-prong, and has two very small (I believe 0.01ct each) round brilliant diamonds set pretty low on the front and back sides of the basket (the sides that face towards the fingernail/hand, not the other fingers). It''s almost as if it was a cathedral-type setting, but the triangular areas on either side are solid and not open. The band is pretty thin (I want to say 2-2.5mm, but that''s a flat out guess), and tapers towards the top where it meets the setting.

Thanks so much!
 
Date: 5/22/2009 3:16:16 PM
Author:mjl5007

I realize that with princess cuts, the numbers alone aren''t generally enough to tell how good the cut is, but these numbers seem to fit with some of the suggestions I''ve read.

Selecting a princess cut "by the numbers" is nearly impossible, but most of the vendors mentioned by Lorelei (including ourselves) provide detailed descriptions of the diamonds, including clarity photographs and images of the diamonds as seen through Gems Fantasy | ASET | Ideal Scopes which provide insight into the optical symmetry of the diamond - something that most jewelers and diamond dealers would truly hesitate to do since the average princess cut diamond was cut with minimal precision and effort. Most princess cut diamonds are produced by faceting the basic outline of the original crystal structure which is why they are cut so poorly. Personally I wouldn''t consider a princess cut diamond which was not graded by the AGS because I find their visual performance rating to be of great assistance and it is extremely difficult to achieve. Another thing to consider is how many chevron facets occur on the underside of the princess cut diamond you are considering because of how they will affect the creation and size of the virtual facets within the diamond - which have a direct affect on the type and size of light effects that will occur. The concept of virtual facets and the number of chevron facets that appear on the underside of the diamond have been discussed at length here on PS so I won''t get into it here, I''m just pointing you in the direction of "more research" so that you have the information necessary to make a truly informed decision.
 
Here is a lovely Princess which is in budget.

http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/5771/

As to the setting, Jon at GOG has access to many more settings than he shows on his website so if you like this diamond it would be worth asking him.
 
Well, I visited the jeweler''s again yesterday to take another look at the diamond he''s offering me; after closer inspection it turns out I actually can see the inclusions without a loupe. Granted, I have excellent vision, but I''m still not a fan of a diamond that isn''t even eye-clean. What bugs me most is that he initially quoted me $2700 for the darn thing.

As for the diamond linked by Lorelei, the specs and images look pretty good, although it looks like there are quite a few black specks of carbon throughout. I guess I''m going to need to look at something with a little higher clarity if I want it to be eye-clean... at least SI1 if not VS2 or VS1?
 
Date: 5/27/2009 9:14:48 AM
Author: mjl5007
Well, I visited the jeweler's again yesterday to take another look at the diamond he's offering me; after closer inspection it turns out I actually can see the inclusions without a loupe. Granted, I have excellent vision, but I'm still not a fan of a diamond that isn't even eye-clean. What bugs me most is that he initially quoted me $2700 for the darn thing.

As for the diamond linked by Lorelei, the specs and images look pretty good, although it looks like there are quite a few black specks of carbon throughout. I guess I'm going to need to look at something with a little higher clarity if I want it to be eye-clean... at least SI1 if not VS2 or VS1?
Ask Jon if the diamond is eyeclean to your standards, you can't tell by images and could miss out on a great diamond if you dismiss it just by the photos. Jon will be completely honest with you and is great to deal with and does not pressure - give him a call or email and ask him.

ETA - also bear in mind we are discussing something which in reality is smaller than a pencil eraser if that puts things into perspective a little.
 
You can''t judge if the SI2 stone is eye-clean or not just from the image alone. That is a seriously magnified image anyway. Just give GOG a call and ask if it is eye-clean if you are interested, they will tell you the truth. Also, you might be drawing the wrong conclusion on clarity from your visit to the local jeweler, which as you mention it is an EGL graded stone and is known to be softer on grading than AGS/GIA.
 
Date: 5/27/2009 9:26:45 AM
Author: Lorelei

Ask Jon if the diamond is eyeclean to your standards, you can''t tell by images and could miss out on a great diamond if you dismiss it just by the photos. Jon will be completely honest with you and is great to deal with and does not pressure - give him a call or email and ask him.

ETA - also bear in mind we are discussing something which in reality is smaller than a pencil eraser if that puts things into perspective a little.
Indeed. Ditto to all.

princesslifelike.jpg
 
Date: 5/27/2009 10:13:25 AM
Author: Ellen

Date: 5/27/2009 9:26:45 AM
Author: Lorelei

Ask Jon if the diamond is eyeclean to your standards, you can''t tell by images and could miss out on a great diamond if you dismiss it just by the photos. Jon will be completely honest with you and is great to deal with and does not pressure - give him a call or email and ask him.

ETA - also bear in mind we are discussing something which in reality is smaller than a pencil eraser if that puts things into perspective a little.
Indeed. Ditto to all.
Thanks El, great example!!
 
Velcome!
 
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