Tension setting fragile?

[outatouch0]

Hey all,
We were killing some time before a movie started so we went into B&M looking at wedding bands for me. I am strongly considering a titanium tension setting from Boone rings. The SA/GG said she is a big fan of tension settings, which this B&M had several to choose from, but warned me that they were risky and not advisable for daily wear.
She said if they get hit right or anything alters the alignment the diamond can pop right out of them. I can see it possibly with gold but I would think titanium wouldn''t be so problematic. She said titanium and even tungsten had the same issue???
This person was one of the few B&M''ers we''ve met that really wasn''t FOS or treated us like we were ignorant or stupid. She wasn''t trying to steer us towards something more expensive or anything like that. She was just giving us her advice and fair warning. Essentially it seems she believes what she told us to be true.
Any thoughts on this from those of you with tension settings and PS jewelers, etc.?

 

[kenny]

Some people feel a well-made tension setting actually offers more protection.
Conventional prongs are thin and fragile; they can catch on things and bend so the diamonds fall out.

With a tension setting more metal touches and protects the diamond than with prongs.
Plus you can select a design in which the diamond is deeply set into the metal.

Keep in mind that people have an incentive recommend what they sell.
Few sell tension settings.

I have bought three tension set diamond rings, two titanium rings from Boonerings and 1 platinum ring from Gelin Abaci.
After 3 or 4 years the diamonds are still there, secure and unchipped.

I think special alloys and processes are needed to ensure higher safety so I'd only trust 4 companies, Gelin Abaci, Boonerings, Steven Kretchmer and Neissin.

A real disadvantage however, if it's an engagement ring for a young person, is they cannot be resized much if at all.
Most of us lose tons of weight as we age.

I think GA gives you a large discount if you ever have to have the same ring remade to a different size.

You can see so much more of your diamond in a tension setting; it is like the diamond is not in prison behind bars.
Plus the are a zillion times easier to keep super clean.
And even a well cut round, I have an ACA and a Solasera, sends tons of colored flashes out the side, probably because the setting lets in light from more angles too.
To me tension settings just give you more of what you paid for with your diamond dollars.

Here's my Boonering titanium GOG asscher ring.

 

[kenny]

Another disadvantage of tension settings just occurred to me.
I may not have thought of this before since my diamonds are AGS E and GIA F.

One argument for going with lower-color well-cut diamonds is they face up whiter than poorly cut ones.
That's face up, but in a tension setting you have an unobstructed view of the pavilion.

I guarantee that you will be looking into the pavilion often and this view shows more body color than the top view.

So in a tension setting you may want to pay for a higher color grade.

 

[Michael_E]

The ability of a tension set ring to hold onto it''s diamond all depends on how it was made. It really has very little to do with tension and almost everything to do with torsion, (twisting). This is because the easiest way to lose a stone from one of these is if the two sides of the ring twist past each other with the stone rolling in between them, forcing the ring open enough for the diamond to slip free. The reason that these rings are heavily built is to resist that twisting and the bending that comes from the rolling stone forcing the two sides apart. Just make sure that the ring is as heavy on the bottom as it is on the sides and if you REALLY want to test it, grab the two sides of the band and try to twist them in opposite directions. I''d ask the salesperson before you try this though, since if it isn''t sturdy enough the diamond is likely to POP out onto the floor.

 

[denverappraiser]

Date: 12/13/2009 4:38:55 PM
Author: Michael_E
[snip] if you REALLY want to test it, grab the two sides of the band and try to twist them in opposite directions. I'd ask the salesperson before you try this though, since if it isn't sturdy enough the diamond is likely to POP out onto the floor.

eeek. Definitely don't do this, even if the salesperson dares you to. Deliberately damaging someone else's ring just to see if you can is not destined to end up well. You just might end up owning a damaged ring that you don't want and/or the salesidiot who agreed to it will end up without a job. If the jeweler can't convince you that the ring is going to be sufficiently durable, don't buy it but bring up the issue in a less destructive way. (I agree with the nature of the problem, it's the test that I'm commenting on).

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[kenny]

Eek indeed.
Plus, even if the diamond didn't fall out you may end up with a weaker spring as a result of the "test".
Tensions settings are basically springs, and you want them to remain tight.
Bending a spring out of shape can result in permanent deformation.

Fortunately, I can't imagine a scenario in which I'd twist my ring so the metal on the two sides of the diamond would move in opposite directions.

Unfortunately, we do things several times a day that could bend back prongs, like putting on a shirt, digging around in a purse, putting a hand into a pocket or putting on gloves.

 

[oldminer]

When they first came out I was convinced these tension settings were going to be a huge problem. Now, after years of seeing them in the market, I do not find loose or damaged stones to be their problem. Re-sizing remains a special case, but it is not something that can''t be handled. I guess I like them better than I once did although I admit to not being overly enthusiastic about such designs.

These are truly "Compression" settings. "Tension" would mean the stone is being pulled away by each side and this is absolutely not what is taking place. I guess tension sounds better.

 

[HVVS]

I've been wanting one of those for everyday wear. Is this true about titanium:
Can't buff out the scratches?
Can't (easily) cut the ring off in case of emergency? - "if your bf works w/his hands and his ring gets caught on something mechanical, the ring will rip off his finger because it will not break" is what I read on another board.

These are truly "Compression" settings.

Some wag wrote on his blog "Would you really want the symbol of your love to be "eternal tension." hehe I guess eternal compression doesn't sound much better.

 

[kenny]

How about calling them equilibrium settings?

 

[outatouch0]

Thanks for the replies
Anyone else with a tension setting please chime in

Kenny I was hoping you would see/respond to my post. I love your rings. I am thinking of doing a smaller version of something like yours. Do you wear yours pretty much "daily wear" or do you take them off for work or activities where you might be a little rough on the hands?

Self thread jack> I am pondering an asscher in the 0.5-0.7 range perhaps under $1500. Does anyone have any thoughts/experience on the likelihood of pulling this off with a respectable stone?

 

[MustangGal]

My boss has about a 1.25ct size round diamond in what I think is a yellow gold Gelin Abaci setting. She wears it everyday, so doesn''t seem to be having any issues!

 

[denverappraiser]

Date: 12/14/2009 2:26:53 PM
Author: HVVS
I've been wanting one of those for everyday wear. Is this true about titanium:

Can't buff out the scratches?

Can't (easily) cut the ring off in case of emergency? - 'if your bf works w/his hands and his ring gets caught on something mechanical, the ring will rip off his finger because it will not break' is what I read on another board.

Emergency personnel are well trained in removing titanium rings and, although it’s utterly destructive to the ring, it preserves the finger just fine. It’s not quite as fast as they can clip of a gold ring but it’s darned close.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver