Antique star sapphire ring

[Bluegemz]

I have fallen in love with this 1920's platinum, diamond and star sapphire ring. The carat weight is around 32, with 2.6 carats in baguette diamonds going around the stone, which cannot be seen from my pictures. The back is flat, ( not much bottom weight) and in the stone, one can see faint silk, very faint zoning, and two, small crystal inclusions. The star, while faint in my pics, snaps to life in light and reaches the edges of the stone. It moves with motion and with the light. It does not look like a diffusion star to me, but I'm not an expert with stars. It is very translucent, with a delicate blue/lavender color, somewhat like a watery tanzanite.
The cons: repairs on the platinum done in gold solder, which would need rhodium plating from time to time, since that was what was done in the past. The stone could use a repolish, and one, long side baguette diamond took a whack and is broken. Also, the 2 crystal inclusions. They are also translucent.
My question is, do you think that this is a rare star sapphire ring? They want 5,500 for it, which seems ok considering the age and wear. Is there anything which seems suspicious about this? I haven't asked about certification yet. I found it at a nice, upscale jewelry store with a small selection of antique jewelry. Wear and style of the ring seem commensurate with the age stated. I've loved stars from childhood, and never seen one this size. It seems unusual and difficult to come by. Do you think that this is a good deal? Too expensive? Any feedback would be appreciated!

 

[Bluegemz]

Here are some other pics from the seller in which it's flooded with light. One can see the delicate color fade. When it's on, one doesn't notice this. The stone is darker than these pictures in life.

 

[normanintheskywithsapphires]

5500 USD? How is the return policy?

 

[Bluegemz]

5500 USD? How is the return policy?

Yes 5,500, usd. I saw the ring in person and they have been accommodating to possible repairs/restoration, so I think once one buys, unless the jewelry breaks, there isn't a return. It's a take your time to buy situation.

 

[Arcadian]

I think its gorgeous. Its got really good size and transparency. I don't know how bad that setting is, but it depending, it could mean an entire overhaul once you start going through the repair process.... thats something you need to take into account.

Do you have anyone in mind to do the repairs? I'd ask them what they think and ask for a ballpark on costs. I'd then ask for that amount off....

If you were so inclined, you COULD send it out to have a report done on it (maybe a brief) while the setting is being repaired. That way you would have an idea of what you were dealing with. Maybe even a bit of peace of mind.

I would also ask about a return policy if you were going this route, and the stone had some significant treatments. They can say no and well, it would be up to you if it were worth it.

I can't lie, I'd probably take my chances...lol

 

[Bluegemz]

I think its gorgeous. Its got really good size and transparency. I don't know how bad that setting is, but it depending, it could mean an entire overhaul once you start going through the repair process.... thats something you need to take into account.

Do you have anyone in mind to do the repairs? I'd ask them what they think and ask for a ballpark on costs. I'd then ask for that amount off....

If you were so inclined, you COULD send it out to have a report done on it (maybe a brief) while the setting is being repaired. That way you would have an idea of what you were dealing with. Maybe even a bit of peace of mind.

I would also ask about a return policy if you were going this route, and the stone had some significant treatments. They can say no and well, it would be up to you if it were worth it.

I can't lie, I'd probably take my chances...lol

Thank you for this feedback. It helps me decide on what to do. Very much appreciated! I do think it's worth taking a chance on, given all of the good things about it. Restoring could be opening a can of worms, but It seemed in decent shape when I saw it. It needs a little TLC for sure. I have a jeweler in town who does laser welding and is very skilled. I will consult with him on price, and see if that can be deducted from price. He might be able to replace the gold solder with platinum. Also one diamond should eventually be replaced. It's 1.9mm by 6, so might have to be especially cut for the ring.

Re: treatments, I'm curious, is silk and growth zoning still visible after heating in a star sapphire? I wouldn't mind heat in this size, but I imagine that the color would be stronger, and that most of the silk would have melted. Also, I imagine that I might round tension fractures around the crystal inclusions, which can be seen. I didn't see anything that seemed like signs of heating that were obvious. Just curious if anyone knows about silk and heat.

 

[minousbijoux]

If I recall correctly, star sapphires have the star because of rutile that occurs in the stone. Heating of the stone at sufficient temps to change the appearance of the stone would melt the very rutile that causes the star, so heating is a no no. I believe the greater concern with a star sapphire is whether it is real or synthetic, and yours appears real. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

 

[Bluegemz]

If I recall correctly, star sapphires have the star because of rutile that occurs in the stone. Heating of the stone at sufficient temps to change the appearance of the stone would melt the very rutile that causes the star, so heating is a no no. I believe the greater concern with a star sapphire is whether it is real or synthetic, and yours appears real. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

Yes, definitely real! That was my impression too, so it's probably safe to say that it isn't treated. I'm still fuzzy about diffusion stars, but this one moves with motion and light, and doesn't seem fixed or dead. And that's a more modern treatment too. Now it's just deciding wether to buy or not..sigh.

 

[Seaglow]

If I recall correctly, star sapphires have the star because of rutile that occurs in the stone. Heating of the stone at sufficient temps to change the appearance of the stone would melt the very rutile that causes the star, so heating is a no no. I believe the greater concern with a star sapphire is whether it is real or synthetic, and yours appears real. Please correct me if I'm wrong!

Unfortunately, this is not the case today. Many star sapphires can be heated to a certain extent without affecting the star. Many heaters know the temperature threshold as to not to alter the rutile. The heating is to improve the color of the stone without losing the star. Usually heating is done before cabbing.

 

[arkieb1]

I agree star sapphires are heated all the time to brighten or intensify the colour, and it's a myth that heating always destroys the silk, heated sapphires can still have silk and rutile.

Having said that because of the age of the ring in theory this one should not have been messed with.

 

[normanintheskywithsapphires]

With a positive report, I think this is a snatch. Without report I'd not buy.

 

[Bluegemz]

Unfortunately, this is not the case today. Many star sapphires can be heated to a certain extent without affecting the star. Many heaters know the temperature threshold as to not to alter the rutile. The heating is to improve the color of the stone without losing the star. Usually heating is done before cabbing.

Thanks for clarifying this. I've definitely heard of heated stars, which confused me.

 

[Bluegemz]

I agree star sapphires are heated all the time to brighten or intensify the colour, and it's a myth that heating always destroys the silk, heated sapphires can still have silk and rutile.

Having said that because of the age of the ring in theory this one should not have been messed with.

Thanks, this info is very helpful. Much appreciated. The stone looks old in that it's got shallow surface wear commensurate with the age. But the safest thing is a report.

 

[minousbijoux]

Unfortunately, this is not the case today. Many star sapphires can be heated to a certain extent without affecting the star. Many heaters know the temperature threshold as to not to alter the rutile. The heating is to improve the color of the stone without losing the star. Usually heating is done before cabbing.

I stand corrected and I'm sorry for the misleading information. Ugh. Wish they would just leave stones alone and make it easier for us hunters!

Fwiw, if you care about the stone's treatment at all rather than buying it as a work of art alone, I would make the sale contingent on a lab report.

 

[Arcadian]

My concern isn't about it being real, my feeling is that it is. But treatments ....a low cook can improve color (as noted, thanks arkie) and not totally destroy all the silk. You won't necessarily know how cooked unless the stone is looked at though (or you have experience in that sort of thing). Plus heating has been done for ages.

This is why I said it may be the best bet (if there are any treatment concerns) to get some eyes on it while the stone is out and the setting is being repaired. Typically gem briefs from AGL are 65 bucks, which in the grand scheme of things, isn't that expensive. Being that this is a much larger stone allotted for gem brief, call AGL to get an answer. They may be ok with it because its a cab, and they tend to be pretty responsive when it comes to questions (at least they are with me). They can only say no right?

 

[Bluegemz]

I stand corrected and I'm sorry for the misleading information. Ugh. Wish they would just leave stones alone and make it easier for us hunters!

Fwiw, if you care about the stone's treatment at all rather than buying it as a work of art alone, I would make the sale contingent on a lab report.

I know, right? It's a constant struggle to stay on top of the newest treatments.
This is good advise. I don't think, by guess, that it's treated. And, I love the totality of the ring. But if it's heated, maybe I could get it for less. I'll inquire about the report. Thanks again!

 

[Bluegemz]

My concern isn't about it being real, my feeling is that it is. But treatments ....a low cook can improve color (as noted, thanks arkie) and not totally destroy all the silk. You won't necessarily know how cooked unless the stone is looked at though (or you have experience in that sort of thing). Plus heating has been done for ages.

This is why I said it may be the best bet (if there are any treatment concerns) to get some eyes on it while the stone is out and the setting is being repaired. Typically gem briefs from AGL are 65 bucks, which in the grand scheme of things, isn't that expensive. Being that this is a much larger stone allotted for gem brief, call AGL to get an answer. They may be ok with it because its a cab, and they tend to be pretty responsive when it comes to questions (at least they are with me). They can only say no right?

So true. Thank you for your advice. Much appreciated!

 

[arkieb1]

Are you near one of the good valuers like Dave Atlas? That would be another option if you can't get it sent to a lab but an AGL report is probably the best option.

 

[Seaglow]

I stand corrected and I'm sorry for the misleading information. Ugh. Wish they would just leave stones alone and make it easier for us hunters!

Fwiw, if you care about the stone's treatment at all rather than buying it as a work of art alone, I would make the sale contingent on a lab report.

Minous,

It's nice you brought it up! It is a very, very common misconception and many dealers believe so. I also thought so myself years back but then I talked to cutters who also heat the stones.

You are right, they should just leave the stones alone. I can only tolerate traditional heat but most buyers want big and bright at the fraction of the cost. A light blue sapphire that is a nice color in its own right will be heated to improve color because it is the market demands.

 

[Bluegemz]

Are you near one of the good valuers like Dave Atlas? That would be another option if you can't get it sent to a lab but an AGL report is probably the best option.

I'm not sure. I would probably have to have the jeweler send it to a lab. I saw it while on a business trip and I live in a different state.