Trillion Cut Diamonds – Triangular Cut Diamonds

Trillion shape diamond

Triangular Brilliants, also known as Trillions and Trilliants, are mixed cuts with three equally straight or slightly curved sides. They are typically shallow and are often cut from flattened, triangular rough called macles. Triangular Brilliants are often seen as side stones for other diamond shapes as their angular silhouette makes them perfect for accentuating diamonds and drawing the eye to the centre. When they are properly proportioned, trillion cuts can also be a stunning centrepiece in an engagement ring.

History of the Trillion Cut Diamond

The first variation of the trillion-cut diamond was developed in Amsterdam. The final appearance of the diamonds varied dramatically depending on the form of the rough that it was cut from. The Henry Meyer Modern Diamond Company of New York trademarked the modern trillion cut in 1962. The name trillion soon became a generic term that was given to any triangular, brilliant cut diamonds. The trademarked trillion cut comes to three very sharp points, while other Triangular Brilliants may have softer and slightly rounded points. When cut to the correct proportions, Triangular Brilliants are very bright and lively stones.

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Special Characteristics of Triangular Cut Diamonds

Triangular Brilliants are often found with shallow total depth percentages.? This is common, as they may originate from very flat rough.? If the points are sharp rather than rounded, they should be protected by prongs or a bezel.?

What to Love About Trillion Cut Diamonds

There are some key features which make trillion cuts unique and desirable for jewelry lovers. The pros for trillion cut diamonds include:

Size: Triangular Brilliants may look large from a face-up position for their relative carat weights because they are often unusually shallow. This is to be determined on a stone by stone basis, though, as some trillions are cut to greater depth percentages. Ultimately this means a larger looking diamond for similar carat weights (when set against a round brilliant or princess cut, for example).
Clarity: Trillion cuts are good at hiding inclusions.
Highlighting: Trilliants are a great addition to engagement rings and other diamond jewelry. Their shape guides the eye and adds extra sparkle to lift to designs and create something unusual.
Brilliance: Provided they have not been cut too shallow; trillion cut diamonds give incredible brilliance.
Unusual: Trillion cuts are extremely eye-catching. They carry a strong geometrical shape and striking sparkle. A trillion-cut engagement ring is a standout piece of jewelry that is guaranteed to turn heads.

Drawbacks of Trillion Cut Diamonds

Each diamond shape has its own unique set of properties. As such, they also have individual pitfalls. Most of these can be avoided by choosing high quality diamonds, however in some cases these properties are unavoidable. Some of the cons of trillion cut diamonds are:

Chipping: The points of a trilliant diamond make it more susceptible to chipping.
Special Settings: Not all settings are suitable for a trillion-cut diamond. A V-prong setting will work as it protects the vulnerable points of a trilliant, however other prong settings leave the weaker points of the diamond exposed. This can mean limiting your search for settings to ensure the trilliant is kept protected.
Extra Cleaning: As a trillion cut is a shallow cut, it is even more important that the diamond is regularly cleaned. Even a small amount of dirt can diminish the sparkle.

Basic Trillion Cut Guidelines

A diamond cutter will run into a fair few issues during the process of cutting a trillion diamond. They must first consider the shape of the rough. For many years, trillion cuts could only be created from a rough diamond with a very specific shape. Fortunately, modern technology and laser drills have made it much easier to form trillion cuts from a variety of rough diamond shapes. Nevertheless, the cutter must still consider exactly how the diamond will be used (side stones, centre stone, ring, earrings etc) before attempting to cut the rough. The amount of facets for trillion cut is between 31 – 50 but the exact amount will depend on whether the diamond is being used as a solitaire or as a side stone.

A trillion cut requires huge amounts of precision and care. The points of the trilliant make it vulnerable to chipping or shattering and this risk is apparent during the stages of cutting, polishing and setting the diamond. A trillion cut is shallow, but if cut too shallow it will lack fire and brilliance. It is a delicate balancing act but when it is achieved, the results are very impressive.

Curved or straight sides are a matter of personal preference, but sides should be equal and even. Curved or convex sides are better suited to solitaires while un-curved or concaved sides work well for side/accent stones. Look for symmetrical stones that have a pleasing triangular shape. People generally look for a depth of 32% – 48% and a table of 50% – 70%. Triangular Brilliants run the gamut when it comes to proportions, so they are best judged by the eye, or at the very least; if buying online, by photographs and/or an experienced vendor eye.