Why are some white gold rings darker than others?

[sasilva123]

Hi everyone,

Firstly thank you so much for any help you can give me.

My boyfriend and I have been talking about marriage and this weekend he actually said for us to stop at a shop to look at engagements rings as he says he wants to make sure I get a ring I like. I like vintage, traditional looks. Something my nan would use, basically!

It was hard work as all the engagements rings we saw (white gold) were extremely white, shiny to the point that they actually looked fake! I was left with a very confused boyfriend who is telling me that what I'm looking for probably doesn't exist.

In another post on this website, I learned that white gold is not actually "white" rather a mix of "normal" gold with white metals which then creates the white colour.

Now, my question is: are there "levels" of white gold considering the addition of other metals and therefore it can be "whiter" or "darker"? I never bought jewellery before, it's fair to say I know close to nothing on the subject. I see people advertising things like "18k gold" or something and I'm absolutely clueless to what that means...

This ring is what I like in terms of color and the main stone (don't know any other way to explain it):
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vintage+engagement+rings&rlz=1C1KYPA_enGB634GB637&biw=1517&bih=708&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr-pj1s67SAhUhKMAKHQJ-CxgQ_AUIwgIoAQ#imgrc=ORETZ-iO6I8rdM::

The design of the band I like is like this one:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vintage+engagement+rings&rlz=1C1KYPA_enGB634GB637&biw=1517&bih=708&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr-pj1s67SAhUhKMAKHQJ-CxgQ_AUIwgIoAQ#imgrc=epECUeg-ORGo7M::

But all the rings I see with the design I like look like this colour:
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vintage+engagement+rings&rlz=1C1KYPA_enGB634GB637&biw=1517&bih=708&tbm=isch&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjr-pj1s67SAhUhKMAKHQJ-CxgQ_AUIwgIoAQ#imgrc=AhgaeMPiaQOzgM::


Any help is massively appreciated

Thank you,
Sofia

 

[foxinsox]

Hi Sofia, I think what you're looking for totally does exist - you just won't see it if you're looking in standard mall stores which deal with brand new modern rings.
The example rings you've posted as liking look like platinum to me rather than white gold. Platinum is a greyer metal and was the main metal used for Art Deco rings which your examples look like.
As you've worked out, white gold isn't a pure element but an alloy of yellow gold with other white metals to make a paler gold colour. The number 18k (or 22k, 14k or 9k) refers to the proportion of gold in the alloy. Since gold is yellow, even when alloyed with white metals, it is commonly rhodium plated to make it appear very silvery white like the shiny example you posted.
There are some alloys which are very white tho and don't generally need to be rhodium plated like Stuller's X1 alloy and some people like their white gold unplated as they enjoy the warmer tone.

So you've got some options. If you like antique rings, there are a number of good, reputable antique vendors listed in this thread here. Some recommended vendors are Jewels by Grace, Love Affair Diamonds, Old World Diamonds. They specialise in antique stones and jewellery. They do make new jewellery and this can be in old or modern styles.
Someone else who does this and is highly recommended here is Caysie Van Bebber. Beverly K does vintage style as well. Many jewellers can do vintage style rings well too but I don't know US jewellers too well.
When I had no idea what I wanted for an engagement ring but knew it wasn't what I was seeing in the local shops (NZ so a smaller selection than you lucky Americans!), I spent a while googling and looking through Etsy and Pinterest. Everything I thought "oh that's pretty" I pinned or added to my favourites and then I went through those to see what the common elements were. That helped me work out what I actually liked instead of feeling overwhelmed to choose something when I didn't have a specific style in mind. You might find that helpful too if you're feeling like what you like isn't what you're seeing in the shops.

 

[rubybeth]

So the first ring you posted, the asscher, is one that I have pinned as a favorite, and it's actually platinum: https://www.estatediamondjewelry.com/product/asscher-cut-diamond-ring/

So I think you might be preferring an aged platinum that has more of a patina. This is common with platinum. Also, white gold these days is often dipped in rhodium to make it whiter/shinier, especially if you are looking in typical jewelry stores and not places that deal in vintage/antiques. There are some Pricescopers who prefer white gold rings that DO NOT have rhodium on them, it's commonly known as "unplated white gold" and designers will do it that way, if you ask. You can see examples of unplated white gold here: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/unplated-white-gold.183102/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/unplated-white-gold.183102/[/URL] Rhodium plating also wears off over time, and with some people's body chemistry it wears off even faster than usual, and can look very lovely/worn. I haven't had my wedding band replated and have worn it for more than eight years, and it definitely looks warmer/darker than it did when I first got it.

So, you have a few options: look for platinum rings instead of white gold, which will develop that patina over time, or buy an actual vintage ring that already has the patina, or buy a new unplated white gold ring, which will have a darker/warmer look.

What is your price range and preferred center stone shape/size? We can help show you some options.

 

[sasilva123]

Hi both,

Thank you so much for your replies, I really appreciate it! It's crazy to think that there is so much to think and so much in the gold/rings world! I'm overwhelmed! Lol

I am actually based in the UK not in the States so hopefully the information would remain the same.
My boyfriend said he's happy to spend £3-£4K for a ring. To be honest it worries me to have a ring costing more than my car!

The first ring is absolutely gorgeous, can't believe the price though!
I was hoping to find the shape of that stone but with the double or triple band that attaches to the stone itself like on the other photo.

Do you reckon I can get a ring like that then? Do you know of any jewellers that deal with more with that vintage look or would I need to buy an old second hand?

Thanks again for your help

 

[rubybeth]

The stone in the first ring is an asscher or square emerald cut, and it's a 1 carat stone. I would recommend only buying an asscher online from a vendor who will provide photos, and preferably one who will provide light return images like the ASET. I think you could potentially get close to a carat with your budget.

http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond-search/1.00-Asscher-SELECT-GIA-I-VS1-diamond-stock-14282-cert-
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/1.06-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-2373964

As for the setting, did you mean this one? http://www.robbinsbrothers.com/Engagement-Rings/Ring-With-Sidestones/Robbins-Brothers-i108258.ring That's a very substantial look and would be a considerable portion of your budget, so you'd either need to go with a much smaller center stone or re-think the setting. Keep in mind that you can get a band or two later to stack with your ring, so if you like the look of a wider ring, stacking may accomplish a similar thing.

Personally I have been pinning rings that remind me of the asscher ring for a while, so my suggestions would be these:

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/danhov/14k-white-gold-danhov-classico-single-shank-asscher-cut-halo-engagement-ring-style-cl102-as-item-58079

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/halo/14k-white-gold-octagon-halo-diamond-engagement-ring-item-49499

https://www.stuller.com/products/build/123173/13001442/?groupId=195933#/mounting-options

http://idjewelry.com/14k-white-gold-diamond-halo-engagement-ring-er11716r0w44jj.html

http://www.greenwichjewelers.com/designers/beverley-k/beverley-k-cushion-cut-halo-engagement-ring-setting.html

You may also like these:

http://idjewelry.com/14k-white-gold-diamond-halo-engagement-ring-er10928w44jj.html

http://www.emmaparkerdiamonds.com/bridal-and-anniversary/engagement-rings/antique-engagement-rings/victorian-halo-engagement-ring-1851117550

And I suggest looking through the options from Gabriel NY on this site: https://www.gabrielny.com/ especially the Amavida halos: https://www.gabrielny.com/products-amavidabridal/division-AMAV/category-ER/style-HALO

I am sorry to say that buying from the US will also involve taxes for you buying from the UK, and I don't know what those are, but I'm sure a UK poster could chime in to help.

 

[ac117]

I'd recommend taking a browse through James Allen's settings to see what you like....they have a huge selection of stones, too, with video so it's a site we highly recommend for fancy cuts. Do you like any of these?
https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/vintage/14k-white-gold-vintage-inspired-floral-bouquet-item-58573
https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/platinum-cross-over-trellis-pave-diamond-split-shank-engagement-ring-item-50321
https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/platinum-pave-crossover-engagement-ring-item-8903
https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/pave/platinum-graduated-pave-engagement-ring-item-7852

Even in platinum, you should be able to get an asscher that's about 5mm (they face up a lot smaller than other diamond shapes):
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.78-carat-i-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-2256737

 

[rubybeth]

Oooh, some really good suggestions, ac117!

 

[sasilva123]

Hiya

Thanks again, you are both absolutely fantastic!

Ruby, this one is looks so simple and yet is perfection! I am absolutely in love with it, even though the band itself is a "normal" one

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/danhov/14k-white-gold-danhov-classico-single-shank-asscher-cut-halo-engagement-ring-style-cl102-as-item-58079

It is simply stunning!! We do have friends living in the US so we could potentially ask them to buy the ring for us and if it's marked as "gift" we don't have to pay any customs

Last night I was going through the websites on the thread and found a few I liked as well:

https://www.rubylane.com/item/510967-rbx20x2e56x20ctwx20Diamondx20Ring/Art-Deco-18k-White-Gold-56?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=lowerfunnel

https://www.rubylane.com/item/635099-R-1503/1-49ctw-Diamond-Ring-14k-Gold


How do you know the carats thing?

Thanks for the info on asscher, is that a type of diamond or a shape in a diamond can be bought?

Sorry is these questions are silly Lol

 

[rubybeth]

Hiya

Thanks again, you are both absolutely fantastic!

Ruby, this one is looks so simple and yet is perfection! I am absolutely in love with it, even though the band itself is a "normal" one

https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/danhov/14k-white-gold-danhov-classico-single-shank-asscher-cut-halo-engagement-ring-style-cl102-as-item-58079

It is simply stunning!! We do have friends living in the US so we could potentially ask them to buy the ring for us and if it's marked as "gift" we don't have to pay any customs

Last night I was going through the websites on the thread and found a few I liked as well:

https://www.rubylane.com/item/510967-rbx20x2e56x20ctwx20Diamondx20Ring/Art-Deco-18k-White-Gold-56?utm_source=criteo&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=lowerfunnel

https://www.rubylane.com/item/635099-R-1503/1-49ctw-Diamond-Ring-14k-Gold


How do you know the carats thing?

Thanks for the info on asscher, is that a type of diamond or a shape in a diamond can be bought?

Sorry is these questions are silly Lol

Okay, first, I love that Danhov setting that James Allen has, and I think it would be amazing with an asscher, as that's what's pictured in the setting: https://www.jamesallen.com/engagement-rings/danhov/14k-white-gold-danhov-classico-single-shank-asscher-cut-halo-engagement-ring-style-cl102-as-item-58079 I put that one on my own wish list as a potential for resetting my radiant, but I think it would be an amazing engagement ring! So if you like it, plan to buy it in platinum and we can help you find an asscher center stone.

I'm a little confused by your other questions:

How do you know the carats thing? Do you mean, how do I know how big the center stone is in your inspiration ring? Because the listing says it's a 1 carat asscher cut stone--it says at the bottom of the listing under "additional information"--https://www.estatediamondjewelry.com/product/asscher-cut-diamond-ring/But as ac117 said, you could go smaller to stay in budget.

Thanks for the info on asscher, is that a type of diamond or a shape in a diamond can be bought? Yes, an asscher (pronounced asher) is a diamond cut, a square emerald cut invented (or initially patented by) the Asscher family, hence the name: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Asscher_Diamond_Company I linked a couple asscher cuts from James Allen, but here are a couple more that would keep you in budget with the Danhov setting:

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.78-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2288976
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.81-carat-e-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2288998
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.77-carat-h-color-vs1-clarity-sku-2393120

Asschers do face up smaller than round cuts or other fancy cuts like pears or ovals, but they are a unique look and a halo will add visual presence, so I think going with a .8 stone in that setting would still be a good size. For reference, I am considering putting my half carat radiant stone in that same setting, which would be even smaller face up than a .8 asscher.

As for the links from rubylane, I think you have to really know what you want--those are both very different rings from your initial inspiration photos. I think you should browse more online and in real life to get an idea of what you really want, and then we can help you find it. Also, with buying secondhand, you have to be willing to take a risk. I think the Pricescope experts on vintage/antique stuff can help a lot (I'd suggest starting a new post if you go in that direction).

 

[MJ_Mac]

sasilva123 - I don't know anything about this particular jeweller (The London Victorian Ring Co.) but have admired their designs many times. Their shop is in London. I notice most of their diamonds come with GIA lab reports. This ring is very similar to the one you linked to in your first post. http://www.london-victorian-ring.com/asscher-cut-diamond-cluster-ring-7022daschpl?rtw=4004

http://www.london-victorian-ring.com/ Have a browse through their various styles on their website.

 

[AdaBeta27]

Asscher is a square diamond that is step-cut, like and emerald cut. If you want a square diamond, there are other square diamond styles. Radiant. Princess. Cut-corner princess. Square brilliant. Jubilee. Regent or whatever it was called. Other "branded" or proprietary things like Brellia Cushion, Solasfera Princess, Ideal2 Hearts & Arrows Radiant, the Hearts On Fire Dream diamond to name a few. A cushion can be rather square-ish, as can an Old Mine Cut. The issue with step cuts and cushions and some of the other square-ish diamonds is that they tend to be deep diamonds that may face up considerably smaller than a modern hearts & arrows or "60/60" diamond of the same carat weight. And they are also harder to buy online or "by their paper." There are no cookbook recipes or cut grades to use for picking a good one fast.

There are different facet patterns with the square diamonds: Steps, "crushed ice," hearts & arrows, several variations of princess faceting , etc. You might find you favor one of those looks over the others.