Sapphire and tension set questions

[JustLikeYou]

Hello everybody

Well I''m not normally a jewelry person, and I''m quite far off from expecting or wanting any sort of engagement, I still get curious and think about a dream ring or dream stone.

I LOVE looking at jewelry, but normally I''m too much of a klutz to own it I know for sure I''m not a diamond person, they''re just too average for my taste, and I LOVE color, being a designer with a fine arts background, I love unique, creative and interesting stuff. Naturally this would carry over to wanting a unique, creative ring and setting.

I LOVE bluish-greenish-aqua colors that are lighter, and so naturally I would think of sapphires. I also stumbled upon tension settings and discovered THAT''S the kind of ring I want. But most tensions look so bland, like a normal ring with a slice cut out and the stone put in it''s place. So I guess my questions center around tensions and what can/can''t be done with them. How creative can you get with a tension setting? How thin? I have all sorts of ideas in my head that I have no idea if they''d actually work.

What size stone can go into tensions? I''m modest, and have really tiny fingers, and I don''t want anything more than a carat of something based on other pictures I''ve seen for size comparison. Is that too small? Are sapphires able to hold up to tension settings? And is it possible to get a really pretty lighter than average blueish/greenish stone? I hear this is an "undesired" sapphire color, but I think those colors are beautiful in the few I''ve seen.

Of course, any juicy, shiny, sparkly inspiration pictures would be welcomed

 

[GliderPoss]

Welcome!

I''m afraid I don''t have the answers to your questions but just wanted to say you are not alone in loving that colour sapphires! I have a teensy emerald cut tbi-colour that is just like that and it''s very pretty. There are many VERY knowledgeable PS members here who can probably help you out!

 

[Indylady]

Hi!

I do believe that sapphires are able to hold up to tension settings, and I also think that it will be fairly, easy for you to find a sapphire that fits your description. Dan Stair and Dana at Mastercutgems probably have a lot of eye candy for you to poke around, as well as sites like GemSelect that have a huge inventory.

 

[JustLikeYou]

holy cow! you weren't kidding! look at all those colors!

I especially love those "mixed" colored ones. I tell myself I love blue/green, then I see those awesome oranges or those awesome purple/pinks and, well... I want all of them. My mind changes more than commercials on TV. lol.

And, okay, this might sound really dumb, but will a carat of sapphire look smaller than a carat of diamond? I also notice that cut affects the way a gem looks as well. Some of the stones from 1 to 1.5 carat look identical in size... either that or I'm just super uneducated

 

[ma re]

Sapphires can be set into a tension setting, but that''s pretty much everything I know about this design. It''s important that the stone is quite tough for it, and not have cleavage planes if possible, so I think you could also be safe with a spinel - not sure about any other stones that might be used for this.

P. S. A carat of a sapphire will generally be smaller than a carat of a diamond due to it''s higher density and some optical properties, but I''m in a hurry now so can''t really go into details, sorry.

 

[morecarats]

From my research, the basic rule for tension settings is that only stones with a hardness of 9 or greater can be mounted in tension settings. These settings exert pressure of about 12,000 pounds per square inch, and only very hard stones can withstand that sort of pressure.

The term "tension setting" is actually a bit of a misnomer, since these seting use compression, not tension, to hold the gemstone in place. The metal band that holds the stone in place is actually spring-loaded. It requires special strength in the metal, and the early designs were very bulky as a result. A new platinum alloy was developed in the late 1980''s that is very strong, and this has enabled lighter rings.

Usually tension settings are designed for the specific gemstone that will be set in it. Tiny grooves are inscribed in the metal and the girdle of the stone sits in the grooves. Not every stone can be set in a tension setting, since there are requirements for the thickness and consistency of the girdle. Creating tension settings is still a specialized business, so it''s best to consult a jeweler who has a lot of experience with them.

 

[Edward Bristol]

We have made some tension settings in the past years.

As far as individual single stones in platinum or gold goes, I can summarize my experience as trouble, difficult, dangerous.

With calibrated or cheap stuff tension is a great gimmick but for a real gemstone it is too risky.

High-end stones are nearly always uneven, have cleavage risk under tension and are too expensive to loose or crack. No good.

I regularly get requests for tension settings but we recommend settings that rather look like tension but are in fact not, such as this mogok sapphire in platinum we made last year:

(http://com.pricescope.com/photos/stones/picture4921.aspx)

 

[chrono]

There’s not a whole lot that can be done with tension, but you can get creative with a pseudo tension setting where there is a bridge under the stone for added support. True tension rings are also generally the same width of the stone itself for added strength and to protect the exposed girdle of the stone. In theory, any sized stone will fit in a tension setting but the larger the stone, the wider the setting, which then starts to look awkward.

Sapphires are a good candidate but it must be very clean. The slightest clarity issue puts it at risk for damage during the setting process (and after). Yes, you can get a light blue / green sapphire and yes, they aren’t in demand in the market. However, this is a benefit to you since you will pay less for it. What one likes or dislikes is subjective so if you don’t like the top blue, it’s great for your wallet.

In general, a 1 carat diamond is 6.5 mm and a 1.5 carat sapphire will be around the same measurement. That said, cutting of gemstone varies; some will be shallow and some very deep and this is where you get stones of 1 ct to 1.5 ct that both measure 6.5 mm. Cut is important but doesn’t play as strong a role as diamonds because in the coloured gemstone world, colour is always the top priority.

 

[ma re]

People, you have raised some interesting points (at least for me) and I have a question; why is surface hardness important in this subject? Shouldn''t toughness of stones be more important here, cause pressure increases the risk of stone getting crushed, not just scratched? Sorry if my questions are not the most inteligent ones

JLY, there are so many variations in gemstone faceting these days, from the outline shape, to the placement of individual facets (their arrangement), and considerations like refractive indexes of varieties in question, or as mentioned above, their densities. Generally, the higher the refractive index (which shows you how much that particular material slows down light and increases the chances of it being reflected), more shallow the stone can be cut without having any cutting flaws and retaining brilliance. And the more shallow the stone, more material can be left in it''s upper part and the stone will face up larger. But also, the denser the stone, smaller it will face up than a comparable stone of lesser density. But that''s all just assuming we''re talking about stones without any major cutting flaws (like extinction or a window), and many stones today don''t fall into that category.

 

[D&T]

while sapphires can be set into true tension set rings, you have to be take into consideration about possible resize in the future. True tension set cannont be resize (if any) without compromising the integrity of the ring. Because they are pressure set, this is how the design is holding your stone, instead of metal just encasing your stone. So you can find alternatives to a tension set such as a bridge underneath the stone, where it acts more like a "channel" set, this type of rings can easily be resized as I did it a couple of times and have had no problems on two different rings.

 

[movie zombie]

nice ring, Ed!
mz

 

[Gailey]

A while ago someone posted the most gorgeous tension set sapphire in titanium. I will see if I can trawl up the thread. Meanwhile, the jeweller was Boone. The link is set to the particular style of wring the customer chose - Helix.

 

[Gailey]

Here you go

 

[JustLikeYou]

Love the helix setting, but is that about as thin (proportionally to the stone) as one could go on the band? I think for what I want, I''d have to go with a "look alike" setting. I want something with a thin band, yet the stone still looks like it''s hanging in air. Of course, I know I''m quite off in la-la land with that. haha. I just like rings where one or the other dazzles. If the stone is AMAZING, then the setting should be super plain. If the stone is so-so, then the setting should be elaborate and shiny to make up for it. But that''s just me.coo

I saw some really beautiful gems on mastercutgems. There''s one that''s a light aqua green with a blue in the middle, and then another blue/yellow one that mixes... both lighter in color. I tried posting links to their images but I guess you can''t do that here.

 

[Edward Bristol]

Date: 10/16/2009 1:10:23 PM
Author: movie zombie
nice ring, Ed!
mz

Thanks mz. The customer loved it too. It was just perfect. My wife was like ''oh! you never made such a ring for me....''

 

[artworkinform]

Hello, I''m brand new to this forum....and I find this thread particularly interesting, since I''ve spent many years both designing and making rings of these sorts...mostly what I''ve seen referred to as the "bridge" approach. as noted in this thread. Due to some difficulties that can be encountered with tension set rings, I''m not an advocate for that approach, but I''ll be happy to answer the questions you''ve posed.

1. Sapphire can certainly be set in a tension set ring and is able to withstand the level of compression needed to hold it in place. Additionally, I''ve found that there are other stones nowhere nearly as durable as sapphire, which are at least capable of withstanding the compression or spring pressure exerted upon them from each side of the ring. However, with the stone extending into space, as it tends to be in tension set rings, you definitely want to think in terms of high durability....i.e.-sapphire and ruby being among the toughest and most durable. Although I''ve not yet seen an aquamarine set in this manner, I''m certain it would work reasonably well. It is also a fairly tough and durable stone and, if worn and handled reasonably carefully, might well stand up to the wear and tear while being worn.

2. I personally see no reason at all why the designs of tension set rings can''t be much more creative and dynamic than what can be found in the marketplace. As long as there exists a sufficient combination of spring tension and mass in the body of the ring, most any design should be viable. I hope this helps.

 

[arjunajane]

Hello, I think you will find this thread interesting; the OP was after both stone and setting very similar to your requests.
I''ve linked to last page with photos of the ring, but you can read about her sapphire search earlier in the thread.


I also agree that I would prefer to add a "bridge" to give the impression of a tension setting, without the undue pressures on my stone.
And I don''t see any reason why tension (or quasi-tension) settings need be "plain" as we typically see - I''m sure one could add diamonds in the band, engraving, etc..
What type of details are you keen to add Justlikeyou?

 

[artworkinform]

Hello again, arjunajane asks a very important question of Justlikeyou...what types of details make the most sense to you? Are you looking only for a ring with the one stone where the shape and form of the ring will dominate? The addition of stones? The use of multiple colors of metal, whether subtle or not so subtle? Always happy to brainstorm...

There are numerous ways by which to create an interesting visual dynamic in the tiny space of a ring. I''m attaching a photo showing just one.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

I love the flows to this ring, a recent PS poster bought it for his engagement ring with a diamond, but I think it''d be stunning with a Sapphire!

link

 

[haagen_dazs]

wow very very unique
i will be checking out your website

 

[zoebartlett]

Date: 11/14/2009 11:58:42 AM
Author: MakingTheGrade
I love the flows to this ring, a recent PS poster bought it for his engagement ring with a diamond, but I think it''d be stunning with a Sapphire!

link

I think I missed the original thread showing this setting, but I love it. It''s unique, and I also think it would look great with a sapphire.

 

[JustLikeYou]

Wow! First of all, thanks for all the recent replies. I didn't see this get brought back up to the forefront. I've still been thinking about settings, but it's been less on my mind since I've been searching for just the right sapphire first. Once I find the sapphire, I'll definitely be on the search again for the perfect setting.

As far as some of you mentioned about side stones or other embellishments, I do love the look of a plain band with a really fantastic center stone. I want it to be a one stone sapphire center, and I'm not much a fan of diamonds really, so no diamond side stones. I'd rather have an interesting band that brings attention to the one sapphire...

Date: 11/14/2009 11:58:42 AM
Author: MakingTheGrade
I love the flows to this ring, a recent PS poster bought it for his engagement ring with a diamond, but I think it'd be stunning with a Sapphire!

link

This band is AMAZING. I've always thought about something like this, and this is what I sort of had in mind when I was thinking about something like a tension set. I sort of don't want to go the traditional route with prongs, and that ring is just BEAUTIFUL!!! *drool* haha. Minus the side stones, of course...

 

[kas baby]

have you looked at bezel set or half bezels? just going off of your dislike for prongs, and wanting to do something more creative than a tension set ring, I think the bezel route would be a winner.

maybe someone like James Meyer of Julia Kay Taylor would have designs that interest you(just thinking off the top of my head, I know there's tons more who can do a very nice bezel)

ETA: if you are interested in greenish/blue sapphires, then maybe you would like 'parti-sapphires'. someone mentioned this website in a thread not too long ago and they seem to have a lot of them

http://www.aussiesapphire.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3_43&zenid=ed2ea66d96af9218c24f179b8a80e442

 

[T L]

I want to see a table on shot of this ring and how the red interplays with the diamond. Thank you!! Cool work!

 

[JustLikeYou]

Date: 11/15/2009 12:07:30 PM
Author: kas baby
have you looked at bezel set or half bezels? just going off of your dislike for prongs, and wanting to do something more creative than a tension set ring, I think the bezel route would be a winner.

maybe someone like James Meyer of Julia Kay Taylor would have designs that interest you(just thinking off the top of my head, I know there''s tons more who can do a very nice bezel)

ETA: if you are interested in greenish/blue sapphires, then maybe you would like ''parti-sapphires''. someone mentioned this website in a thread not too long ago and they seem to have a lot of them

http://www.aussiesapphire.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3_43&zenid=ed2ea66d96af9218c24f179b8a80e442

You know, I''ve never really been a fan of bezels, but that may be just because I haven''t seen a lot that I really like. I suppose I''ll have to research those names more and see what kind of cool creative stuff can be done in bezel sets. I''ve just always felt that they "hug" the stone too much and don''t let it be as exposed as it could be. I know, I know, I''m super picky... which is why I''m starting to look now while I still have months and months away.

And thank you for that link! There''s some really pretty sapphires in there. I really LOVE the "unconventional" ones that people seem to think aren''t desirable. On the contrary, I think the random, splotchy colors and mixtures give the stones all the more personality!

 

[kas baby]

I would do a search on something called a ''Colette'' bezel. the bezel only surrounds the girdle which allows for more of the stone to be seen.

check out the JKT thread:

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-your-julia-kay-taylor-pieces.124965/

 

[artworkinform]

Date: 11/15/2009 12:34:52 PM
Author: tourmaline_lover
I want to see a table on shot of this ring and how the red interplays with the diamond. Thank you!! Cool work!

Thanks! As requested, I''m attaching a photo showing the ring more from above.

 

[artworkinform]

Date: 11/15/2009 12:34:52 PM
Author: tourmaline_lover
I want to see a table on shot of this ring and how the red interplays with the diamond. Thank you!! Cool work!

Looking more closely at sapphire, there''s a photo of a ring with a sapphire as the center stone set in a half bezel with an inverted diamond immediately beneath.

 

[artworkinform]

Date: 11/15/2009 2:38:01 PM
Author: kas baby
I would do a search on something called a ''Colette'' bezel. the bezel only surrounds the girdle which allows for more of the stone to be seen.


I wasn''t aware such an approach to a bezel had a name...thanks for the information. I''m attaching a photo showing a ring with this type of bezel where the underside of the center stone remains largely exposed.

 

[AustenNut]

Wow, what an interesting thread! I''m definitely enjoying seeing the various rings being posted here.

Here''s one that might strike your fancy.

Here''s another idea that might work if it was done as a tension (or bridge tension) setting rather than with prongs as seen here.