Please Help! Heartbroken Leon won’t set my 4.01 HVS1 emerald cut diamond

[cannuck]

My current engagement ring was set by Leon Mege 15 years ago and love everything about it. It’s a G SI1 1.76 ideal round center center stone with pear sides stones. It’s delicate and beautiful with double claw prongs.
My DH got me an upgrade of a 4.01 HVS1 emerald cut diamond for my 50th birthday and 25th wedding anniversary. I purchased it through Jonathan from Destinctive Gem Inc. because I have watched his educational videos for years and trust his reputation to get me the most beautiful emerald diamond within my specifications and budget…and he did!! I really wanted another hand forged setting done by Leon Mege, but he will not set a stone that he did not source. I am so upset and heartbroken.Unlike round, emerald cuts can’t be picked by numbers alone—you need to see them! This is why I decided to have Jonathan do the vetting for me.
I live in NJ and would like to get my diamond set in NY by someone that does exquisite work and will set an outside diamond. I have heard of Steven Kirsch. Does he take outside stones?
I have always wanted my upgrade to look like Eva Longoria’s engagement ring from Tony Parker—it’s my dream ring! However, I am afraid with my lifestyle that the pave on the shank is too delicate, so was hoping to do a 3 stone petite trapezoid or a 5 stone with trapezoids and bullets, but must have beautiful claw prongs.
I would love to hear any advice on who to go to!

Stats
4.01 H VS1 GIA
VG
Polish Ex
Symmetry Ex
Depth 67.7%
Table 67%
10.34x7.59x5.14
L/W ratio1:1.36

 

[EClove]

I’m just here to say I love a three stone (haha obvs by my profile picture) and I can’t wait to see your finished product. Your stone sounds gorgeous and I have no doubt that Jonathan helped you find a stunner!

 

[cannuck]

I’m just here to say I love a three stone (haha obvs by my profile picture) and I can’t wait to see your finished product. Your stone sounds gorgeous and I have no doubt that Jonathan helped you find a stunner!

Thanks, EClove! I just love your ring and definitely it’s one of my inspirations.

 

[EClove]

Thank you!! 6 months in and still love it. The band is really thin which I know is not recommended but hasn’t lost its round yet and I’m rough on my hands

Does Jonathan have any ideas on who can set it?

 

[cannuck]

Thank you!! 6 months in and still love it. The band is really thin which I know is not recommended but hasn’t lost its round yet and I’m rough on my hands

Does Jonathan have any ideas on who can set it?

So glad you still love it—sure is pretty!
Jonathan has two master benches that regularly contact work from Cartier, Tiffany’s and Harry Winston, but I really don’t want the decision to be up to me on what side stones work. I want to show pictures of what I like, but the designer to know what proportions will work. Am I crazy and making this to hard on myself?

 

[KristyDarling]

I LOVE the Eva Longoria/Tony Parker ring! I don't know if SK takes outside stones but I'm pretty sure Mark at Engagement Rings Direct will...I've loved every ring and band Mark has made for me and he uses a master bench that also does work for the big luxury houses. If you're open to going out of state, have you considered Caysie from CVB Inspired Design? She does amazing work and would totally nail that setting! David Klass in Los Angeles would be awesome as well. Note: Many jewelers are super slammed right now and there might be a queue so be ready to wait a bit, and email and follow up with phone calls!

PS -- I contacted Leon 2 days ago for a quote to set my new EC stone and he was a complete d!ck to me about not buying the center stone from him. Like you, I had worked with him on a round/pear sides 3-stone ring 16 years ago and he was an abrasive and rude diva back then....but he's worse now! I'm thinking about starting a thread on this latest interaction but not sure if his nastiness is worth my time.

 

[yssie]

All jewellers will prioritize settings for stones they sell, and some jewellers take that a step further and simply decline to work with stones they don’t sell altogether, outside of perhaps a few exceptional circumstances. As someone who is always glad when a jeweller will work with my stone - I do understand it: It’s a lot more risk for for them, for commensurately low reward.

Don’t take the decline to heart.

So glad you still love it—sure is pretty!
Jonathan has two master benches that regularly contact work from Cartier, Tiffany’s and Harry Winston, but I really don’t want the decision to be up to me on what side stones work. I want to show pictures of what I like, but the designer to know what proportions will work. Am I crazy and making this to hard on myself?

Reach out to Steven Kirsch. He trained with Leon and they have very similar general aesthetic. He can also advise on proportions, etc. If he agrees to set your stone, he’s my top choice for you.

Diamonds by Lauren also has an excellent bench, and may be a good fit depending on exactly what you’re looking for. Also based in NYC.

Maytal’s style is different - more airy, less “tight” and “cozy”. It’s a pretty different look and feel from your original ask (Leon’s style), but if Steven declines, look through her IG to see if her work suits your tastes.

You don’t want to work with Klass on this project - his working model is to outsource the majority of design details to his client. Opposite of what you want here.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Steven Kirsch would be my choice for NYC. He has always set outside stones as far as I know.

 

[cannuck]

I LOVE the Eva Longoria/Tony Parker ring! I don't know if SK takes outside stones but I'm pretty sure Mark at Engagement Rings Direct will...I've loved every ring and band Mark has made for me and he uses a master bench that also does work for the big luxury houses. If you're open to going out of state, have you considered Caysie from CVB Inspired Design? She does amazing work and would totally nail that setting! David Klass in Los Angeles would be awesome as well. Note: Many jewelers are super slammed right now and there might be a queue so be ready to wait a bit, and email and follow up with phone calls!

PS -- I contacted Leon 2 days ago for a quote to set my new EC stone and he was a complete d!ck to me about not buying the center stone from him. Like you, I had worked with him on a round/pear sides 3-stone ring 16 years ago and he was an abrasive and rude diva back then....but he's worse now! I'm thinking about starting a thread on this latest interaction but not sure if his nastiness

I LOVE the Eva Longoria/Tony Parker ring! I don't know if SK takes outside stones but I'm pretty sure Mark at Engagement Rings Direct will...I've loved every ring and band Mark has made for me and he uses a master bench that also does work for the big luxury houses. If you're open to going out of state, have you considered Caysie from CVB Inspired Design? She does amazing work and would totally nail that setting! David Klass in Los Angeles would be awesome as well. Note: Many jewelers are super slammed right now and there might be a queue so be ready to wait a bit, and email and follow up with phone calls!

PS -- I contacted Leon 2 days ago for a quote to set my new EC stone and he was a complete d!ck to me about not buying the center stone from him. Like you, I had worked with him on a round/pear sides 3-stone ring 16 years ago and he was an abrasive and rude diva back then....but he's worse now! I'm thinking about starting a thread on this latest interaction but not sure if his nastiness is worth my time.

KristyDarling- Your LM round pear sides 3-stone ring was what inspired my current (much smaller 1.76 carat round) engagement ring all those years ago!!
I thought because Leon did my last ring he might be inclined to do my new ring…nope! He scolded me for not buying my center stone from him. Also, I was hoping to get a pave ring, too. He said”go on my website and order it there.” I got off the phone and my eyes welled up with frustration. I saw something from his website that he strongly discouraged outside stones, but not that he outright refuses them. This happened to you, too! We’ll, I guess I’m in good company. I knew he was a diva, but give me a break! Do you know who you might try next?

Mark from ERD sourced the center stone for my current ring and was so wonderful to work with. Did he source all your stones for the rings and band he did for you? I’ve heard great things about Caysie from CVB Inspired Design and David Klass, but was hoping to go to NYC since I live so close by. Also, I really would like to see side stones with the center stone in person, so I can see on my hand how it will look, like when the stick it on the clear box and put it over your finger. Am I expecting too much? Do designers not let you see side stones in person?

Thanks for letting me know about the wait time. Everything is a long wait these days, so I’m not in a hurry and can be patient for a beautiful ring—although it might be hard. Lol!
I will post some pictures of my diamond. I really am excited to get it early next week!

 

[cannuck]

All jewellers will prioritize settings for stones they sell, and some jewellers take that a step further and simply decline to work with stones they don’t sell altogether, outside of perhaps a few exceptional circumstances. As someone who is always glad when a jeweller will work with my stone - I do understand it: It’s a lot more risk for for them, for commensurately low reward.

Don’t take the decline to heart.



Reach out to Steven Kirsch. He trained with Leon and they have very similar general aesthetic. He can also advise on proportions, etc. If he agrees to set your stone, he’s my top choice for you.

Diamonds by Lauren also has an excellent bench, and may be a good fit depending on exactly what you’re looking for. Also based in NYC.

Maytal’s style is different - more airy, less “tight” and “cozy”. It’s a pretty different look and feel from your original ask (Leon’s style), but if Steven declines, look through her IG to see if her work suits your tastes.

You don’t want to work with Klass on this project - his working model is to outsource the majority of design details to his client. Opposite of what you want here.

Thank you, yessie! I’ll try not to take it personally. It’s too bad, but that’s the way it goes.
Thanks for all your suggestions! I think I will try Steven Kirsch next. You’re right, his aesthetic reminds me of Leon’s, so I hope he will be willing to work with my stone. It appears from his website that he works with outside stones, so I’ll see if he’s willing.

 

[cannuck]

Steven Kirsch would be my choice for NYC. He has always set outside stones as far as I know.

Thanks, diamondseeker 2006. I definitely get in touch with him!

 

[cannuck]

Here’s a video of my diamond. My apologies, I’m not great at posting things.

 

[Gemstonesrock]

@cannuck and @KristyDarling I'm so sorry about your recent experiences. While I can understand a jeweler choosing to prioritize projects from customers who source stones from those jewelers, there is just NO place for rudeness and abrasiveness. I find it short-sighted for a vendor to rebuff a PS client. After all, I have to believe our community is one of the best sources of steady, repeat jewelry business. Grrrr.

If Steven doesn't work out, I had a great experience working with Maytal Hannah to make a hand-forged ruby ring and would recommend her. I love how her micropave work looks.

 

[cannuck]

Here’s a video of my diamond. My apologies, I’m not great at posting things.

Here’s a video of my diamond. My apologies, I’m not great at posting things.

@cannuck and @KristyDarling I'm so sorry about your recent experiences. While I can understand a jeweler choosing to prioritize projects from customers who source stones from those jewelers, there is just NO place for rudeness and abrasiveness. I find it short-sighted for a vendor to rebuff a PS client. After all, I have to believe our community is one of the best sources of steady, repeat jewelry business. Grrrr.

If Steven doesn't work out, I had a great experience working with Maytal Hannah to make a hand-forged ruby ring and would recommend her. I love how her micropave work looks.

@cannuck and @KristyDarling I'm so sorry about your recent experiences. While I can understand a jeweler choosing to prioritize projects from customers who source stones from those jewelers, there is just NO place for rudeness and abrasiveness. I find it short-sighted for a vendor to rebuff a PS client. After all, I have to believe our community is one of the best sources of steady, repeat jewelry business. Grrrr.

If Steven doesn't work out, I had a great experience working with Maytal Hannah to make a hand-forged ruby ring and would recommend her. I love how her micropave work looks.

Yes, Gemstonesrock, rudeness is so unnecessary. My first appointment was abruptly cancelled, second one he didn’t even show up, third he said no. It’s a great way to treat a former client. I also was planning to reset the center diamond from the 3-stone engagement ring Leon made for me into a necklace. Then I would like to reset the ring with a sapphire to replace the center diamond. So, I have multiple projects. I didn’t even bother asking…
Thanks for the Maytal Hannah suggestion! I have a short list of people to contact if Steven doesn’t work out.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

It's a very beautiful stone! Jon did a good job helping you!

I don't blame you for wanting to use a relatively local ringmaker. It's SO much easier if you can take the stone to them rather than dealing with shipping, especially with an expensive diamond!

 

[Gemstonesrock]

Yes, Gemstonesrock, rudeness is so unnecessary. My first appointment was abruptly cancelled, second one he didn’t even show up, third he said no. It’s a great way to treat a former client. I also was planning to reset the center diamond from the 3-stone engagement ring Leon made for me into a necklace. Then I would like to reset the ring with a sapphire to replace the center diamond. So, I have multiple projects. I didn’t even bother asking…
Thanks for the Maytal Hannah suggestion! I have a short list of people to contact if Steven doesn’t work out.

Clearly it did not cross his mind that you might have future projects in mind. Well he just lost your stream of business. And I would very likely steer clear now that I know about the attitude. There's too many other wonderful vendors to deal with drama.

 

[cannuck]

It's a very beautiful stone! Jon did a good job helping you!

I don't blame you for wanting to use a relatively local ringmaker. It's SO much easier if you can take the stone to them rather than dealing with shipping, especially with an expensive diamond!

Thanks, I can’t wait to get it!
Yes, I would rather take it to a jeweler close to home, so fingers crossed that will work out.

 

[cannuck]

Clearly it did not cross his mind that you might have future projects in mind. Well he just lost your stream of business. And I would very likely steer clear now that I know about the attitude. There's too many other wonderful vendors to deal with drama.

I guess he’s too busy to care. Ha,ha,ha! His loss. I do not need the drama, so I will move on to one of the other recommended vendors.

 

[yssie]

Okay so normally I would keep my mouth shut here, but I do want to point out that Leon is an immigrant. From Russia. This is in his bio on his website - no secret.

He is ardently and vocally in sympathy with Ukraine, but what’s “a war going on out there, did you hear the latest news?” to many of us here in the US hits very very close to home for him. I consider Leon a friend. I spoke with him today myself, and I can guarantee that potentially losing future reset business is not top of mind for him right now.

Whilst every customer has a right to expect polite treatment from any vendor, agreement to taking projects on is always at vendor discretion, and one vendor’s cost:benefit analysis will not be another’s.

And at this particular time… It is easy for me, at least, to empathize with the most likely explanation for why a person with his background might be out of sorts.

Just some perspective to keep in mind.

 

[cannuck]

Okay so normally I would keep my mouth shut here, but I do want to point out that Leon is an immigrant. From Russia. This is in his bio on his website - no secret.

He is ardently and vocally in sympathy with Ukraine, but what’s “a war going on out there, did you hear the latest news?” to many of us here in the US hits very very close to home for him. I call Leon a friend. I spoke with him today myself, and I can guarantee that potentially losing future reset business is not top of mind for him right now.

Whilst every customer has a right to expect polite treatment from any vendor, agreement to taking projects on is always at vendor discretion, and one vendor’s cost:benefit analysis will not be another’s.

And at this particular time… I can easily sympathize with the most likely explanation for why this particular vendor might be out of sorts.

Just something to keep in

 

[mayaINaU]

One more suggestion: Mark Morrell.

Welcome mwmjewelry.com - Hostmonster.com

He does beautiful hand-forged platinum work. I don’t know if that’s the style you’re looking for but take a look!

 

[cannuck]

Okay, I don’t want this to be taken the wrong way and no disrespect, but it’s really about business and is not personal (although it may feel that way sometimes). Although I am fully aware Leon’s immigration status, this really should not be a conversation on this thread. I need to tread lightly here, but my husband has close relatives that have fled their home in Kiev (a place where he spent parts of his childhood at) to Western Ukraine with one change of clothing and little else. This has been emotionally draining on my family. I’ve said too much and I’ll leave it there. Like I said, it’s business and not personal.

 

[cannuck]

One more suggestion: Mark Morrell.

Welcome mwmjewelry.com - Hostmonster.com

He does beautiful hand-forged platinum work. I don’t know if that’s the style you’re looking for but take a look!

Oh, yes, I should take a look at his designs. From what I remember, his designs are very fluid with clean lines. Thanks so much, mayalNaU!

 

[yssie]

We are people, first and foremost, and it is futile to wish to extract that shared humanity from our interactions with each other, whatever forms those interactions may take.

I wish your family and friends health and safety, and good luck with your project. I am confident one of the designers recommended here can bring your hopes to fruition.

 

[KristyDarling]

KristyDarling- Your LM round pear sides 3-stone ring was what inspired my current (much smaller 1.76 carat round) engagement ring all those years ago!!
I thought because Leon did my last ring he might be inclined to do my new ring…nope! He scolded me for not buying my center stone from him. Also, I was hoping to get a pave ring, too. He said”go on my website and order it there.” I got off the phone and my eyes welled up with frustration. I saw something from his website that he strongly discouraged outside stones, but not that he outright refuses them. This happened to you, too! We’ll, I guess I’m in good company. I knew he was a diva, but give me a break! Do you know who you might try next?

Mark from ERD sourced the center stone for my current ring and was so wonderful to work with. Did he source all your stones for the rings and band he did for you? I’ve heard great things about Caysie from CVB Inspired Design and David Klass, but was hoping to go to NYC since I live so close by. Also, I really would like to see side stones with the center stone in person, so I can see on my hand how it will look, like when the stick it on the clear box and put it over your finger. Am I expecting too much? Do designers not let you see side stones in person?

Thanks for letting me know about the wait time. Everything is a long wait these days, so I’m not in a hurry and can be patient for a beautiful ring—although it might be hard. Lol!
I will post some pictures of my diamond. I really am excited to get it early next week!

Aww, I'm so glad my old 3-stone could be of assistance all those years ago. I bet yours is stunning! (Do you still have it?)

OK I just saw the video of your EC. It is a fireball!! So beautifully cut and clear, too! It's going to be killer.

Yes, Mark at ERD sourced all the stones for the 3-stone cushion in my avatar, as well as the pave for the eternity band he made for me. In 2014, he set my OEC - which was from another vendor - into one of his beautiful flowy solitaire designs. It totally makes sense that you'd want to stay with a NYC jeweler - it'll make evaluating side stones much easier. I hope you find someone you vibe with soon! I cannot wait to see your finished ring!

As for who else I might try - I've been waiting to hear back from Caysie and might nudge her tomorrow. I also received a quote from Erika Winters for her plain Laurel solitaire (no side diamonds)....I love the meticulous craftmanship but it's outside of my budget. I had approached Victor Canera even knowing that he isn't likely to take an outside stone, but I decided to try anyway because he's been known to make exceptions. His associate was professional/courteous and told me they're not working with outside stones. I have not approached David Klass yet, only because there's a chance I might temporarily plop my stone into a stock solitaire. Because I am DYING to wear it and have no self control!

I'm so sorry to hear about your husband's family in Ukraine. He must be beside himself with worry. I hope and pray they will remain safe! Sending you hugs and support

 

[cannuck]

Aww, I'm so glad my old 3-stone could be of assistance all those years ago. I bet yours is stunning! (Do you still have it?)

OK I just saw the video of your EC. It is a fireball!! So beautifully cut and clear, too! It's going to be killer.

Yes, Mark at ERD sourced all the stones for the 3-stone cushion in my avatar, as well as the pave for the eternity band he made for me. In 2014, he set my OEC - which was from another vendor - into one of his beautiful flowy solitaire designs. It totally makes sense that you'd want to stay with a NYC jeweler - it'll make evaluating side stones much easier. I hope you find someone you vibe with soon! I cannot wait to see your finished ring!

As for who else I might try - I've been waiting to hear back from Caysie and might nudge her tomorrow. I also received a quote from Erika Winters for her plain Laurel solitaire (no side diamonds)....I love the meticulous craftmanship but it's outside of my budget. I had approached Victor Canera even knowing that he isn't likely to take an outside stone, but I decided to try anyway because he's been known to make exceptions. His associate was professional/courteous and told me they're not working with outside stones. I have not approached David Klass yet, only because there's a chance I might temporarily plop my stone into a stock solitaire. Because I am DYING to wear it and have no self control!

I'm so sorry to hear about your husband's family in Ukraine. He must be beside himself with worry. I hope and pray they will remain safe! Sending you hugs and support

I do still have it! Please excuse swollen fingers and bad lighting. I’m going to take out the stone and make a pendant with it.
I get get the EC on Tuesday and cannot wait! I’m terrified of loosing it, so I had to make sure I secured insurance on the loose stone (very difficult) before I got possession of it.
I think I will reach out to Mark T, even though I feel guilty for not using him to source my latest stone.
I can’t wait to hear which vendor you settle with! I know when I get the EC I might want to put it in a stock solitaire because I can’t wait! Lol!
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words. Thankfully, his cousin has been able to update us fairly regularly. They are okay for now, but they live in fear of what comes next.

 

[KristyDarling]

I do still have it! Please excuse swollen fingers and bad lighting. I’m going to take out the stone and make a pendant with it.
I get get the EC on Tuesday and cannot wait! I’m terrified of loosing it, so I had to make sure I secured insurance on the loose stone (very difficult) before I got possession of it.
I think I will reach out to Mark T, even though I feel guilty for not using him to source my latest stone.
I can’t wait to hear which vendor you settle with! I know when I get the EC I might want to put it in a stock solitaire because I can’t wait! Lol!
Thank you, I appreciate your kind words. Thankfully, his cousin has been able to update us fairly regularly. They are okay for now, but they live in fear of what comes next.

So beautiful, icy white, and elegant The pendant will be lovely with that babe of a center stone! BTW I hear you on the swollen fingers. In my case it's due to enlarging knuckles, swelling, and a little weight gain. My ring finger has gone up 1.5 sizes in the last 15 years. Aging....fun!

Mark T will be very happy to hear from you so don't worry about not getting the center stone from him. He appreciates his return customers and I feel he's always given me very fair deals on stones and/or settings in the past. I hope you have a productive conversation!

I look forward to following your setting journey! Let's stay in touch since we're on parallel paths and can learn from each other. (Speaking of insurance, I'm filling out the underwriting questionnaire now!)

 

[cannuck]

So beautiful, icy white, and elegant The pendant will be lovely with that babe of a center stone! BTW I hear you on the swollen fingers. In my case it's due to enlarging knuckles, swelling, and a little weight gain. My ring finger has gone up 1.5 sizes in the last 15 years. Aging....fun!

Mark T will be very happy to hear from you so don't worry about not getting the center stone from him. He appreciates his return customers and I feel he's always given me very fair deals on stones and/or settings in the past. I hope you have a productive conversation!

I look forward to following your setting journey! Let's stay in touch since we're on parallel paths and can learn from each other. (Speaking of insurance, I'm filling out the underwriting questionnaire now!)

Ha,ha,ha! Yes, that’s why my fingers are swollen, I’ve put in weight over the last 15 years and ring doesn’t quite fit the same way.This is my third…and last, upgrade to my engagement ring and the size keeps going up!

Okay, I am going to reach out Mark T. Your rings are so incredibly stunning that how could I go wrong with Mark T?!?Besides, I trust he will find the best side stones for me. I also will reach out to Steven Kirsch. I hope to have good luck with at least one of them!

Good luck with the insurance. FYI - I use Chubb for all my jewelry, but they wouldn’t insure a loose stone, so my Broker at Chubb arranged for insurance with Abacus to insure my loose stone. I’m sure with all the beautiful stones you’ve had over the years you likely have it worked out, but if you need someone my Broker can move mountains. Lol

I would love to keep up on your journey, so let’s stay in touch.

 

[autumngems]

I LOVE the Eva Longoria/Tony Parker ring! I don't know if SK takes outside stones but I'm pretty sure Mark at Engagement Rings Direct will...I've loved every ring and band Mark has made for me and he uses a master bench that also does work for the big luxury houses. If you're open to going out of state, have you considered Caysie from CVB Inspired Design? She does amazing work and would totally nail that setting! David Klass in Los Angeles would be awesome as well. Note: Many jewelers are super slammed right now and there might be a queue so be ready to wait a bit, and email and follow up with phone calls!

PS -- I contacted Leon 2 days ago for a quote to set my new EC stone and he was a complete d!ck to me about not buying the center stone from him. Like you, I had worked with him on a round/pear sides 3-stone ring 16 years ago and he was an abrasive and rude diva back then....but he's worse now! I'm thinking about starting a thread on this latest interaction but not sure if his nastiness is worth my time.

This is nothing new. Leon has a reputation. Years ago I contacted him about some work and he was rude and nasty then. Several others have had the same experience. There is NO excuse to treat people that way when you are in business. You are better off contacting someone else. I would try Mark Morrell, he does beautiful work.

 

[rainydaze]

cannuck I think you will be in good hands with Mark T or Steven Kirsch. Did you try Victor Canera (he will sometimes take outside stones, and I suspect yours might be one he'd enjoy working with)?. I think CVB has been mentioned as well, her work would not leave you feeling like you missed out as well.

@mayaINaU and @autumngems last I heard, Mark Morrell had to close up shop because he lost his lease. He said it looks like this is the end of the road. I believe his FB page has a post about this, whereas his jewelry sites do not share this information. Such a loss, his work is impeccable.