Date: 3/3/2005 7:402 PM
Author: Hannahsb21
Will get back to all on this tomorrow, but for anyone who doubts, we didn't chip the stone.
Actually, it's not very simple at all by this statement. In order for you to derive any meaning from a grading report, you first have to know what the data is based on and how to interpret it.Date: 3/3/2005 7:402 PM
Author: Hannahsb21
It is actually very simple, the stone has a chip that though you can't see with a loop, exists, therefore making the cert that was guarenteed to me fraud
I''m not a gemologist - but I was wondering the exact same thing.Date: 3/4/2005 2:37:42 AM
Author: hey joey
WHEN LOOKING AT THE EGL DIAMOND REPORT, COULD THIS DIAMOND HAVE A DESCRIPTIVE GRADE OF A NATURAL OR A CHIP ON THE REPORT.
Date: 3/4/2005 2:30:41 PM
Author: Hannahsb21
Just wanted to say thanks so much for your support, felt like you heard me and read the post all the way through. Feels very good.
I think the labs average out the time spent on grading. Sure it takes a lot longer for an IF or VVS, but an SI-2 doesn''t take that long, unless it has a lot of inclusions to plot.Date: 3/4/2005 8:51:20 PM
Author: Garry H (Cut Nut)
Off topic - but why dont labs charge more to grade IF / VVS than SI?
You never need to bother with 60X analysis which can take 2-3 hours in an IF / VVS1 grading.
Hi Dave....Date: 3/5/2005 8:57:31 AM
Author: crankydave
Usually 60x is sufficient to find most inclusions, but the inclusion also must be identified as to what kind of inclusions it is. What might appear to be a very tiny pinpoint, may be a crystal that is minute. In order to establish this, it is necessary to see and examine the inclusion at higher power.
I can certainly appreciate the need to identify the type of inclusion under 60X + magnification once it's found.
Are you also saying that one should look for inclusions at 60X + and then back off to see if they can see them at 10X? To what magnification should one be accurate? Is it reasonable to assume that an inclusion that would not be spotted at 10X could be found and it's location pinpointed at 60X? Or would it be more reasonable to assume once located and pinpointed at 60X the inclusion would invariably be seen at 10X since you now know not only that it exists but exactly where?
Thanx!
Dave
Hi again Dave.....Date: 3/5/2005 106:37 PM
Author: crankydave
Thanx Rocdoc...
Welcome Dan P...
I certainly hope everything works out for the best for you and Hannah. I truly do.
At the risk of being improperly labeled as a ''defender'' again, I ask my same question again...
I would like for anybody to please explain to me how anyone can definitively tell when and how a particular chip was caused after the fact. This cannot be known. I would dearly love to know how this can be done and will be more than pleased to stand corrected.
Any particular chip that could be caused by a prong could just as easily be caused by tweezers or many other things.
Dave
Date: 3/5/2005 11:24:42 PM
Author: crankydave
Thanx again Rocdoc. I appreciate the info.
My question still remains unanswered so I''ll ask you directly...
Can you tell definitively after the fact when and what chipped a diamond? If so how? I still maintain. It cannot be known.
Dave
Hi RichardDate: 3/6/2005 10:33:20 AM
Author: Richard Sherwood
It''s tough when a stone is loose to determine how it got chipped. The nature, location, size, depth, and direction of break however can often (but not always) give a strong indication.
The ''crunch, and travel'' look of a chip caused by setting pressure, for example, will usually look distinctly different than a very light, shallow, flaking chip caused by improper pressure of a tweezer. A chip caused by a blow to the corner through dropping on a concrete floor will have a different look still.
Forensic gemology using very high power magnification, or an electron microscope, can often give a conclusive indication if a metal residue if detected in the chip area. If the residue is platinum versus steel versus concrete than you have an idea of what contact metal created the chip.
If a chipped stone is still mounted, it''s much easier to determine whether the diamond was chipped because of setting trauma, or wear & tear trauma. The clues listed above are augmented by clues exhibited under microscopic examination of the prongs and setting. If you see no indication of trauma to the outer portion of the prong for example, and see that the prong is improperly notched, and that the chip corresponds exactly to a contact area of the prong, then you have a reasonable conclusion that the diamond was chipped during setting.
On the other hand, if the outer surface of the prong indicates post-purchase trauma, then you have a reasonable conclusion that the diamond was chipped by the owner during wear.
The point of a forum is definately to get information and opinions, but as pointed out earlier, too many can clutter a discussion. The stone has a chip in it, no one questions that. I was never told of any chip when we purchased the stone, infact, quite the contrary. In this, I was happy and willing to pay higher dollar and honor the sellers price. Upon further inspection, the stone sadly isn''t what Tony told me it was. Hence, we want our money back.
That is the simple version and how the situation should be honored. For those who still question if you can determine the cause of a chip, think about the fact that based on different measurements and information a police officer can tell how fast a vehicle was traveling prior to an accident. In addition, if there was a major dent on the hood of a car we would assume a pebble hadn''t caused it and in turn a tiny dent likely wasn''t caused by a boulder. With deductive reasoning, and in unique circumstances, under close examination, by an expert, it is very possible to say how something occured. Especially with something like a diamond, where similar situations have happened.
It isn''t that hard to comprehend that upon inspection it is clear how the stone was damaged. It also isn''t hard to imagine that a buyer, untrained eye, might miss such a tiny chip. Further, a trained eye, looking for such a problem, knowing it is there, will likely find it. Or in a hurry, not knowing it was there, may miss it thanks to an IF grade. Either way, it does exist, under 60x, 10x, or with the naked eye, whether you can see it is disgretional, and fortunatley for me, that is not the point. It isn''t what was sold to me, and either has to be recut, polished or take the risk of setting it chipped, in this knowing we paid far too much.
A lemon is a lemon, it either has to be fixed or returned and if the buyer doesn''t trust the seller, since the original contract was inaccurate, you must return it.