Designing my 20th Anniversary Ring

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

This year marks the 20th anniversary since I met my husband, so I decided that I wanted my project for the year to be an anniversary ring. I've been working on this project since December, but I'm ready now to share some of my ideas.

Back in December of last year as I was starting to ponder what my project would be for 2024, I decided that I might reset my original engagement sapphire. I posted a thread over in Colored Gemstones about that. I thought I would like diamond side stones, and I knew if I was going to do that I would want OECs. And I knew if I was going to buy OECs I was going to have to source them myself on eBay because I simply cannot pay retail for old cut diamonds. About a decade ago I was quite the eBay sleuth, but I stopped hunting when I took a hiatus from this delightful but expensive hobby! Anyway, I started my eBay stalking again.

Usually when I search I have a vague idea of what I'm looking for... but mostly I'm looking for deals. And I buy for the parts. I want the diamonds, not the mounting. My vague idea when I started hunting was that I wanted a pair of 4-5mm OECs for side stones for my sapphire. But in early February, I found something much better. A three stone ring with lovely cushiony OECs. So well matched, nice photos. I corresponded a little with the seller, then made my offer. It was more than I had initially planned to spend, but I just thought it was such a rare find that it was worth stretching a little.

The ring was advertised as 1.44cttw, with three 5mm stones, JK color and SI clarity. When it arrived I was a little concerned about the condition of the diamonds, and I sought advice over in the Antiques forum. I ended up agreeing with @LightBright 's assessment that the diamonds were simply very very old and the nips and other marks around the girdle were naturals and indented naturals, rather than "damage" per se. But really I just fell in love with the diamonds and I don't care that they aren't perfect. My vision has changed in middle age anyway and I can't see anything anymore anyway!

The ring fits my pinky finger. I had it appraised and they said 1.65 cttw (!) and H/I color (!)... and SI2/I1 clarity lol I don't care! They look gorgeous and clean and sparkly to me!

Next to my e-ring, 1.89ct Early Ideal/American cut with two .30ct sides. Setting my CVB.

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

Even thought I am enjoying wearing the ring as it is, I don't need a pinky ring or another three stone. And I'm not going to break apart this suite to use two as side stones. So I started pondering how I might set these, or what I might pair them with.

Idea 1

My first idea was to pair the diamonds with some coloured gemstones. Diamond is my birthstone and Ruby is my husbands, and that felt like it could be a nice combo!

I’ve become a little obsessed with this style of ring which was apparently really popular 100+ years ago, because these types of rings are everywhere! I loved the mixed of sizes, it adds a lot of visual interest. I had a diamond ring with a similar design many moons ago.

Some other versions of this design have collet set stones.

Some designs are bezelled, which seems eminently wearable.

Some other examples.

(Cont)

lovedogs · May 5, 2024

Loooooove. I vote for the bezeled option so it's easy to wear

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

Idea 1 (cont)

I thought it would be interesting to do the inverse of the designs in my previous post, using my suite of diamonds and some hot pink unheated sapphires I collected from Yvonne at Cecile Raley Designs for this purpose. They are 3mm each. Yvonne said the vendor thought they were rubies, but the batch testing at GIA came back as pink sapphires — unheated! It’s amazing that rocks naturally come this color. They need a little more purple to qualify as rubies, but I’m not a stickler. It’s all corundum! They are stunning.

Here are my 3mm pinkies. Shown with a 4mm OEC we may hear from again later.

And my mockups of what this design might look like. I’m very proud of my photoshop lol!

(Ignore the grey area on my pointer, it’s where I actually wore the three stone before I moved it)

Pros: Color! Unique! I already have all the gems! The proportions play well with my e-ring and don’t draw attention away from the star.

Cons: I want this to be a daily wear ring and I’m concerned about durability for the sapphires. The finger(s) I want o wear these on are large (size 11.5) and I’m not sure this style offers as much finger coverage as I would like.

Is there a way to adapt this design to increase horizontal finger coverage??
- - - - -
I have a second idea I am pondering but it’s late so I will post about it tomorrow. To be continued!

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

Idea 2

My other idea for these diamond is to create a five or seven stone diamond band. This has long been on my wish list. I had a lovely five stone OEC band once, but the stones were only 4.2mm and it just lacked the hand presence I was after. So I sold it. But a high carat weight old cut band

Recent posts by @oldcutclubmember showing off her amazing 3.5+ cttw band have really motivated me. There are lots of these kinds of bands floating around. But not in my size or budget for the carat weight I want.

It is very difficult to put together a suite of old cuts. But having three already is a good start. And I enjoy the hunt. Perfect matching isn’t the goal, that’s impossible. But I think I can do it based on my eBay stalking the past 5 months.

The place I am getting stuck is what size stones to get to complete the suite. I’m going to focus on the N-S measurements here for ease, but note that my diamonds are all slightly cushion shaped, so a bit narrower than they are tall.

My current stone are 5 - 5.2 - 5 mm (funny but the bigger one isn’t set in the middle in the current mounting! Drives me bananas). So I could buy:

1) two additional 5mm diamonds. That would create a look like this, which would provide about 25mm finger coverage. This would be BLINGY, which I love. I wonder a little if this overpowers my e-ring? Also this is a $$ option as there is a large price increase at the .50ct mark for diamonds.

2) I could add two 4.5mm diamonds for a more graduated look. I think my preference does lean towards graduation. It feel elegant how it curves to the finger.

3) I could also do a bigger 5-stone graduated look if I bought another 5.2mm stone and a 5.5mm center. This is very very tempting, though it would be the most expensive option! This one makes me nervous in terms of the $$ outlay. Still, it would be the most blingy and probably closest to my dream ring kind of proportions. I do worry a ring like this would compete with my ering. Maybe that’s OK?

I don’t have a mock up! Obviously I will rectify that forthwith.

4) I am also obsessed with making a graduated 7-stone. A few weeks ago @MakingTheGrade posted this graduated old cut 7-stone in another thread and I was quickly smitten.

I don’t like the setting per se. but I do like the graduation

And I feel like with my larger finger size a 7-stone might make more sense.

I did a little photoshop on the inspiration so the center and larger side stones are proportioned more similar to my suite.

My diamonds are larger than the ones shown in this inspiration, about 1mm larger. But her finger is smaller, so I think the overall look would be similar on my finger.

If I copied the proportions of this inspiration, then the four additional side stones would be quite small, about 4mm and 3mm. And it just so happens I already have two 3.8mm OECs on hand. I would need to source another two 3mm OECs to complete the suite.

That graduation might be a little stark. I could also source two 4.5mm and use my 3.8mm stones as the smallest pair.

It’s would give amazing horizontal coverage and would be a true “half hoop” style ring on my finger size. Because I plan to wear it on my pointer I would get a nice view of the side stones. But I’m not totally sure it would scratch the itch for a BIG band?

Pros for these options: Durable! More diamonds! Fun hunting. Bling bling.

Cons: Cost. Time searching (but maybe not a cost lol)

So that’s where I’m at! Waffling around the various options.

MakingTheGrade · May 5, 2024

You can probably guess my vote is for the old cut seven stone. It might take some time but for me the hunt is so much of the fun if you’re not in a rush.

I used to have a large graduated 5 stone of mrbs but sold it. Too blingy

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

MakingTheGrade said:
You can probably guess my vote is for the old cut seven stone. It might take some time but for me the hunt is so much of the fun if you’re not in a rush.

I used to have a large graduated 5 stone of mrbs but sold it. Too blingy

I do have some thoughts about the ring being too blingy. MRBs are more eye catching than OECs, so that’s one point of consideration. I had an OEC three stone many years ago that was a 7mm center and 6mm sides and that ring made me a little uncomfortable to wear. But I’m a lot older now, and the band I’m considering doesn’t have such large rocks!

I went looking for your five stone to jog my memory and linked it below in case anyone is curious. It was gorgeous! But I know what you mean about the bling.

MakingTheGrade said:
I know I should just wait until the weekend or when I can get a good little photoshoot in of my new ring since it absolutely deserves to be shown off properly. But I just couldn't wait!!!

I just picked it up 2 hours ago, and here are some photos because I"m over excited! It's a sz 5, white gold, graduated 5 stone featuring a .9ct center stone that is my original ering diamond, and it's flanked by 2 .52ct and then 2 .25 lazare kaplan rounds (all ags0). The center is F color, the sides are H's and I's but the contrast really isn't that noticeable face up due to the INSANE wall of sparkle.

I will eventually start a proper thread with nicer photos, but thanks for sharing in my excitement right now! I"m loving the graduated 5 stone option for erings, so much finger coverage! I highly doubt DSS will be a problem any time soon, I literally couldn't fit any more diamond on my finger.

Any thoughts on a band? Or should I go bandless? I was thinking a band might help with spinning with the ring is a bit big due to cold weather and finger shrinkage (like right now)

lulu_ma · May 5, 2024

Dreamer_D said:
Idea 2

My other idea for these diamond is to create a five or seven stone diamond band. This has long been on my wish list. I had a lovely five stone OEC band once, but the stones were only 4.2mm and it just lacked the hand presence I was after. So I sold it. But a high carat weight old cut band Recent posts by @oldcutclubmember showing off her amazing 3.5+ cttw band have really motivated me. There are lots of these kinds of bands floating around. But not in my size or budget for the carat weight I want.

It is very difficult to put together a suite of old cuts. But having three already is a good start. And I enjoy the hunt. Perfect matching isn’t the goal, that’s impossible. But I think I can do it based on my eBay stalking the past 5 months.

The place I am getting stuck is what size stones to get to complete the suite. I’m going to focus on the N-S measurements here for ease, but note that my diamonds are all slightly cushion shaped, so a bit narrower than they are tall.

My current stone are 5 - 5.2 - 5 mm (funny but the bigger one isn’t set in the middle in the current mounting! Drives me bananas). So I could buy:

1) two additional 5mm diamonds. That would create a look like this, which would provide about 25mm finger coverage. This would be BLINGY, which I love. I wonder a little if this overpowers my e-ring? Also this is a $$ option as there is a large price increase at the .50ct mark for diamonds.

2) I could add two 4.5mm diamonds for a more graduated look. I think my preference does lean towards graduation. It feel elegant how it curves to the finger.

3) I could also do a bigger 5-stone graduated look if I bought another 5.2mm stone and a 5.5mm center. This is very very tempting, though it would be the most expensive option! This one makes me nervous in terms of the $$ outlay. Still, it would be the most blingy and probably closest to my dream ring kind of proportions. I do worry a ring like this would compete with my ering. Maybe that’s OK?

I don’t have a mock up! Obviously I will rectify that forthwith.

4) I am also obsessed with making a graduated 7-stone. A few weeks ago @MakingTheGrade posted this graduated old cut 7-stone in another thread and I was quickly smitten.

I don’t like the setting per se. but I do like the graduation And I feel like with my larger finger size a 7-stone might make more sense.

I did a little photoshop on the inspiration so the center and larger side stones are proportioned more similar to my suite.

My diamonds are larger than the ones shown in this inspiration, about 1mm larger. But her finger is smaller, so I think the overall look would be similar on my finger.

If I copied the proportions of this inspiration, then the four additional side stones would be quite small, about 4mm and 3mm. And it just so happens I already have two 3.8mm OECs on hand. I would need to source another two 3mm OECs to complete the suite.

That graduation might be a little stark. I could also source two 4.5mm and use my 3.8mm stones as the smallest pair.

It’s would give amazing horizontal coverage and would be a true “half hoop” style ring on my finger size. Because I plan to wear it on my pointer I would get a nice view of the side stones. But I’m not totally sure it would scratch the itch for a BIG band?

Pros for these options: Durable! More diamonds! Fun hunting. Bling bling.

Cons: Cost. Time searching (but maybe not a cost lol)

So that’s where I’m at! Waffling around the various options.

I love the look of either a graduated 7 stone (the upper one) or a graduated 5 stone (the one with the 4.5 mm at the end). But darn the pink sapphs are so pretty. Too many good options here!

Dreamer_D · May 5, 2024

lulu_ma said:
I love the look of either a graduated 7 stone (the upper one) or a graduated 5 stone (the one with the 4.5 mm at the end). But darn the pink sapphs are so pretty. Too many good options here!

Well you’re no help!

You’ve basically described my swirling thoughts though… they are the options I keep bouncing between.

I might just try to pick up a 4.5mm pair. Having them in hand and seeing them might help me decide, and there is always a use for a pair of OECs!

LightBright · May 5, 2024

I like the idea of a graduated 7 stone or graduated 5 stone, as per @lulu_ma ‘s comment. That would be really lush and amazing.

AllAboardTheBlingTrain · May 6, 2024

Personally, I’d do the BIG 5 stone (with an additional 5.2mm stone and 5.5mm stone) or the bigger version of the 7 stone (with the 4.5s). It’s your 20th anniversary - go big or go home! I don’t think it competes with your ering if you wear it on your pointer or on the other hand.

oncrutchesrightnow · May 6, 2024

If you are craving big then get big! I like the sapphire option but since you have always wanted a blingy band, and it’s your anniversary, now is the time.

Here are some settings that I personally love that might add finger coverage. The white metal one might have slots for two rubies.

Also…

I recommend getting some cheap cz testers. This one is seven 3mm stones and size 11. A little expensive at $33 but it is vermeil WG and moissanite so you might like it for a fashion ring.

Amazon.com

This one is size 11.5, but only 1 ctw and CZ. https://www.amazon.com/NANA-Sterlin...one+ring+size+11.5,aps,478&sr=8-32&th=1&psc=1

Inked · May 6, 2024

OK, so I am someone who says to hit your ring with a mallet so feel free to ignore my idea...i do not get offended.

I LOVE the look of a giant 5 stone (I saw your post on my 5 stone, i will DEFINITELY take new pics but it's been cloudy in NY the last 2 days but supposed to be sunny tomorrow!

You mentioned wanting more vertical presence. What about a bypass ring? I actually designed one I am planning on making, I want them to crawl up my whole finger, not a little bypass, a WIDE bypass... LOL. I can picture it in my head but i am not good at photoshop...

I AM BAD AT PHOTOSHOP!! lol!! this is just to give you the rough idea... i wasn't clear on if you had 3 or 4 diamonds

So, it's just an out there idea! Feel free to laugh and move on...

I got the idea from this ring (below), which looks way better and maybe help you visualize what i am badly photoshopping... hahaha

I also have a tiara ring idea for you , but wasnt sure if you were looking for more 'out there' ideas... lol! This is exciting and fun! Congratulations on 20 years!!!

Dreamer_D · May 6, 2024

oncrutchesrightnow said:
If you are craving big then get big! I like the sapphire option but since you have always wanted a blingy band, and it’s your anniversary, now is the time.

Here are some settings that I personally love that might add finger coverage. The white metal one might have slots for two rubies.

I have this one saved in my inspiration folder! I like a bezel but for some reason round bezels like this are not my favourite. And I don't like an enclosed gallery. But I can't even begin to contemplate the mounting yet, but once I have the gems collected that will of course be the next step.

oncrutchesrightnow said:
Also…

I recommend getting some cheap cz testers. This one is seven 3mm stones and size 11. A little expensive at $33 but it is vermeil WG and moissanite so you might like it for a fashion ring.

Amazon.com

This one is size 11.5, but only 1 ctw and CZ. https://www.amazon.com/NANA-Sterling-Swarovski-Simulated-Band-Size/dp/B08ZCM5FLH/ref=sr_1_32?crid=LH5GA4WV58UH&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uuKs00OrFLY7w847j9xF1Yae-FYU64KHhJHybaJAZXHNjvtPAoIVyIPDPtiCRXwjzXxuYWAn5WgeZ1D3CoGE2SAfOqYLEZyPl5C5R4_CbetlV_WyWFiAh40DQUfnZoWW_mFFFOlcH6f4T0WSxztl8sHZe8IFSOHVRVk2z_7WXlWh0vBwrFQiB7KG-Sg_yKlIt2T-iW0iRFlNDaqrVKsjGTlfRjfy81pAewOVByw8oqO_1q5Qlw-k5I6xsE--RC9uX3poXkBdebvi6N66XbTdYhNqNSFRwqICXk16fBOaIkY.ORJkXxSg6qOwYlEIFyEzKzo3eXSRJ5q1ka-1w2AJBFc&dib_tag=se&keywords=Cz+5+stone+ring+size+11.5&qid=1715014547&sprefix=cz+5+stone+ring+size+11.5,aps,478&sr=8-32&th=1&psc=1

This is an interesting idea! I will have to poke around and see if there are any higher carat weight options.

Dreamer_D · May 6, 2024

Inked said:
OK, so I am someone who says to hit your ring with a mallet so feel free to ignore my idea...i do not get offended.

I LOVE the look of a giant 5 stone (I saw your post on my 5 stone, i will DEFINITELY take new pics but it's been cloudy in NY the last 2 days but supposed to be sunny tomorrow!

You mentioned wanting more vertical presence. What about a bypass ring? I actually designed one I am planning on making, I want them to crawl up my whole finger, not a little bypass, a WIDE bypass... LOL. I can picture it in my head but i am not good at photoshop...

I AM BAD AT PHOTOSHOP!! lol!! this is just to give you the rough idea... i wasn't clear on if you had 3 or 4 diamonds

So, it's just an out there idea! Feel free to laugh and move on...

I got the idea from this ring (below), which looks way better and maybe help you visualize what i am badly photoshopping... hahaha

I also have a tiara ring idea for you , but wasnt sure if you were looking for more 'out there' ideas... lol! This is exciting and fun! Congratulations on 20 years!!!

These are lovely!

I think if I don’t pair the sapphires with this suite of diamonds (I have three 5mm and two 4mm diamonds) then I will likely use them in one of Yvonne’s lily rings or pendants, which I have also long coveted.

ItsMainelyYou · May 6, 2024

Why not combine the ideas? That way you get the look but also the individuality of your own take on the design.

Dreamer_D · May 6, 2024

ItsMainelyYou said:
Why not combine the ideas? That way you get the look but also the individuality of your own take on the design.

What did you have in mind? A five stone with sapphires between the diamonds?

ItsMainelyYou · May 6, 2024

Dreamer_D said:
What did you have in mind? A five stone with sapphires between the diamonds?

Yes! It would be wall to wall bling but I think you could do it justice. It would be the only one I've seen in a long while, I think. I don't know why this isn't more common because it makes for a beautiful line.

Dreamer_D · May 6, 2024

ItsMainelyYou said:
Yes! It would be wall to wall bling but I think you could do it justice. It would be the only one I've seen in a long while, I think. I don't know why this isn't more common because it makes for a beautiful line.

I absolutely thought about that! The problem is it would be a 37mm span of gemstones, which would be well over half way around my finger, and I thought that would be too much? I sort of want more of a ring than an eternity band for this project. But I may still do this design in the future.

Dreamer_D · May 7, 2024

Today I decided to make my life easier by really examining whether my three stone suite could pair with the ~4mm OECs I have. If it doesn’t work then I would likely eliminate the 7 stone option.

My ~4mm OECs have GIA lab reports, which is handy because I know they are in fact H and I color diamonds. I had sort of perfunctorily compared the H color stone to my suite a while back and thought maybe it could work. My suite was sold to me as K/L color, but they look fairly bright and white and the insurance appraisal pegged them as H/I color. So I thought it might work?

Today I compared my diamonds in lots of different lighting and my suite is absolutely NOT H-I color per GIA. Here is a photo that shows the difference in body tint between the suite and my 4mm GIA H color. Don’t use this for absolute color, my suite doesn’t look this tinted to my eyes, but the relative comparison with the GIA H is stark!

The difference wasn’t as obvious is some other lighting but still, much to obvious for my comfort. So I will definitely not be pairing my 4mm pair of OECs with the stones in my three stone.

So what color are the suite of diamond? My e-ring has two small side diamonds that are GIA graded as K and L. My center stone is a similar color. I think the suite is close to that range, as the original eBay listing said. Sometimes it looks a little less tinted than my e-ring stones, but just barely.