shape
carat
color
clarity

Modern Halo spinel ring or Antique Russian FCD ring?

Which project design would you undertake first?

  • Modern bespoke halo for a 4 carat lavender blue spinel, possibly in an East / West design.

    Votes: 25 78.1%
  • Antique Russian plain metal design containing 4 small coloured diamonds.

    Votes: 7 21.9%

  • Total voters
    32

chrono

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Alice,
Yes, both antique designs are Russian made (originals) but where would I find a Russian jeweller? It would be great if the bench is very familiar and experienced with such work. I did not know that this design is currently still being made, if that's what you meant by "order it at the factory". I agree that $3K for such work is much too expensive, hence I have not begun the project.

Minou,
The original intent of the buttercup is to amp up the colour of the FCDs. Tendrils can be very tricky to coil and end up looking tacky and I'd rather not take that risk. The 2 smallest blush FCDs will be set in the wire leaf so that's already taken care of. Nothing is blasphemy, just a different view or perspective. I understand what you mean though and there must be some other way to keep the entire ring "light" yet intensify the FCD colours.

Molly,
I think the majority who voted keeping the split shank are right. I don't see any other way to join the half halo "bezel" or wraparound to the shank seamlessly without it.

Blingymo,
At one point, I did considering purchasing a ring directly from the vendor but could not swallow the cost. I find it on the expensive side considering how incredibly tiny the white diamonds are and how little metal there is. The intent was to enjoy the ring as is, without modification. I dislike tampering with antique rings that much other than resizing. It feels sacrilegious to remove all the stones (and baskets) to add new stones which are of different shapes and proportions.

Peacechick,
You are spot on. I want the design to showcase the pear and oval, made specially to fit and flow well.

Freke,
Thanks for the link. I've been terribly lazy and have not moved forward for quotes yet. :bigsmile:
 

alice87

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Hello Chrono,
I was curious, because design is basically mass produced for diamonds, I will try to find similar link for you. Even the factory will do design for you, no problem, but the Russian customs does not allow exporting or importing gold (unless you are authorized to do it). You can bring gold or silver items in or out, but as a personal belongings, no problem.
I think in NY you could find plenty of Russian - Jeweish jewelers.
I am no expert on how antique prongs look like compare to modern, so just by seeing it, I had a hard time to believe it is antigue.
I looked at the stamp online and it said belong to Moscow's master from late 19-s century, to Ivan Lebedkin "56 ИЛ" (Клеймо Московского окружного пробирного управления с инициалами управляющего округом Ивана Сергеевича Лебедкина). I will try to find some links.
 

minousbijoux

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Chrono|1373287138|3478950 said:
Minou,
The original intent of the buttercup is to amp up the colour of the FCDs. Tendrils can be very tricky to coil and end up looking tacky and I'd rather not take that risk. The 2 smallest blush FCDs will be set in the wire leaf so that's already taken care of. Nothing is blasphemy, just a different view or perspective. I understand what you mean though and there must be some other way to keep the entire ring "light" yet intensify the FCD colours.

Ahh, makes perfect sense - I hadn't thought of that :wavey:
 

chrono

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Alice,
Thank you so much for the links; some I did find on my own but most are new to me.

Russian Gold - very interesting and it appears that he might do custom work if only I can get Google translator to work for me. :nono: Other than that, I'm hesitant to send so many diamonds to Poland to a vendor unknown to me and others on PS.

Goldural - the quality isn't there as the pieces look block and flat.

Ju-ur - Google translator decided to work so I was able to read the descriptions but could not make out their location. Are they in Russia?

Anjay - I considered this Etsy shop often but was never brave enough as all he has posted are CADs, not actual rings which can look very different from a computer generated drawing. I do not know the quality of the finish and so far, almost all the stones used are simulants.
 

alice87

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Chrono,
ju-ur - yes, it is a russian site, they had english version, i don't see it anymore. Most russian factories would take custom orders. Most individual goldsmiths actually made they jewellery at the factory - at least final casting, because their equipment is better, and there is no "accidental" holes and imperfection after the casting. The only problem is how it will be shipped.
Sorry, I thought English version is still there.
I think Russian gold would reply in English? Wouldn't they?
Goldural is a good company with good reputation. I don't know what you mean by block and flat.
I think people have different preferences in terms of design. But Russian factories have much stricter regulations, and pieces are done extremely well compare to a lot of pieces I saw here in US. My favorite Ben Bridge pretty much amaze me a lot of times at what they carry. I don't think it would be fair to compare them to Boucheron, or Bulgary, or other top designers. They definitely do better job compare to LOGR items or most chain stores here, both in quality and design :D
I did find this link.
http://www.jfcarat.ru/en/
 

chrono

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Alice,
I am glad I did not scare you off from helping me with my seemingly frank opinion of the various vendors. :bigsmile:
Ju-ur - the problem is that I am too hesitant to send FCDs worth thousands off to an "unknown" Russian shop. I really like what I see on their website though.
RussianGold - ditto the above.
Goldural - here is where my fussiness and detail to attention makes me a difficult customer in the eyes of most vendors. Their creations look one dimension and stiff instead of 3D like, fluid and light.

http://www.jfcarat.ru/en/
Very pretty, albeit very modern too.
 

peacechick

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Chrono, I wonder if you could have the mount custom designed and made according to the specs of your FCDs and then shipped to you so you can have your jeweler set them, just like you do with LOGR. You're looking at prong settings right? I certainly wouldn't feel safe sending those gems off :))
 

1001smiles

Shiny_Rock
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I like Russian designs too.

FWIW, I tried to have RussianGold create a custom mount for me last year and it was a bad experience.

There's an Etsy vendor I've been drooling over: http://www.etsy.com/shop/SimplyUniqueJD.. His name and style seem Russian, but he is in the U.S. I think his work really pretty, but I can't afford anything...

Good luck with your projects!
 

alice87

Shiny_Rock
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Chrono, oh no, you didn't! I like your collection and different opinions matter. It helps me to see different side of a coin too!
Unfortunately you can't even send gold, silver, or precious stones (semi-precious are ok) to Russia via mail. Sorry, just offering suggestions.
Please keep us informed with your choice!
 

chrono

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peacechick|1373393962|3479769 said:
Chrono, I wonder if you could have the mount custom designed and made according to the specs of your FCDs and then shipped to you so you can have your jeweler set them, just like you do with LOGR. You're looking at prong settings right? I certainly wouldn't feel safe sending those gems off :))

I did think about it going this route but there are also disadvantages to this which I am particular about. Pears come in varying chubbiness as with ovals. If going with some sort of buttercup, the fit has to be almost perfect otherwise there will be gaps that I will obsess over, which admittedly most will never see.
 

chrono

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1001smiles|1373402208|3479837 said:
I like Russian designs too.
FWIW, I tried to have RussianGold create a custom mount for me last year and it was a bad experience.

There's an Etsy vendor I've been drooling over: http://www.etsy.com/shop/SimplyUniqueJD... His name and style seem Russian, but he is in the U.S. I think his work really pretty, but I can't afford anything...

Good luck with your projects!

Hey Smiles! Haven't see you around for a while. :wavey: Do you mind sharing a little more detail about your poor experience with RussianGold? Was it the customer service (communication, language), product (design, workmanship, material) or customs? I'll take a look at SimplyUniqueJD later tonight when I have more time. Having any lead for benches is very welcome since there's hardly anyone right now. :(sad
 

chrono

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Alice,
I think you are mistaken; it wasn't me but 1001 Smiles who had a bad experience with RussianGold. I hope she'll shed a bit more light on her project.

Anyway, to all, I am going to suggest something sacrilegious. Supposing instead of ideal cut melees in platinum, I went for light/medium pink sapphires in rose gold. :o Of course I wish I could afford pink FCDs and I know sapphires sparkle differently but it's just a thought. I noticed that light pink brings out blues very beautifully in diamonds, so why not spinels? Please don't kill me...

pearpinkhalo.jpg
 

1001smiles

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Hi, Chrono. It's a long story with RussianGold, but at the end of the day, quality was the deal breaker. I asked them to modify one of their ebay buttercup-style mounts to fit my round stone. It dragged out for months, where they didn't respond for weeks at a time, raised their quote a few times, etc. Finally, when I received the mount, it had no stamp on it and it had black spots on the surface of the gold. I don't know if it was poorly gold-plated or problem with casting, but I was so frustrated at that point that I just sent it back. Thankfully I got a refund a month later, so I was glad it was over. So unfortunately I can't recommend them.

On another note, I think the idea of using light pink sapphires in rose gold is a great one. I was actually planning to do the same thing with my minty garnet (whenever I can afford it). So I'd love to see what you come up with, as you have a great eye for these things!
 

SB621

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Chrono|1373457201|3480159 said:
Alice,
I think you are mistaken; it wasn't me but 1001 Smiles who had a bad experience with RussianGold. I hope she'll shed a bit more light on her project.

Anyway, to all, I am going to suggest something sacrilegious. Supposing instead of ideal cut melees in platinum, I went for light/medium pink sapphires in rose gold. :o Of course I wish I could afford pink FCDs and I know sapphires sparkle differently but it's just a thought. I noticed that light pink brings out blues very beautifully in diamonds, so why not spinels? Please don't kill me...


Don't have me but I love the classic look of the first halo with the white melee posted. While the pink is a great idea, I also think it takes away from the classic look. If you like a bit of funk to your jewelry then perhaps the pink will be great, but I know for me any of my more expensive settings I like to keep things classic so it will be something I wear 10, 20,30 years etc down the road.
 

peacechick

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Just my personal takes:

A white halo is neutral

A pink halo with the stone in your pic makes the stone look "colder". I'm not sure if it looks bluer. Someone needs to photoshop it :D

I have a feeling a pink halo with your spinel will make it look more purple, as opposed to more blue.
 

chrono

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1001Smiles,
I am sorry to hear about the disappointing quality from RussianGold but am glad you received a full refund. As for settings, I can attest to having see up close in person how light pink or at least rose gold really amps up the blue modifier in mint green garnets. Just take a look at TL's rings as I think she set either her mint garnet or blue spinel in rose gold and it looks fabulous!

SB,
You know me all too well. I agree that white melees in platinum is classic and one cannot go wrong with it. I'm not always up for funky but I do sometimes like something a bit off the beaten path as long as it is elegant and has elements that are still classic. For all other readers, please do not flame me for the next sentence. It is a mind clean issue for me. I have a thing against rose gold. :oops: There! I've admitted this publicly. I love to see it, I think it's a great metal, I think it compliments certain gemstone colours very well. Unfortunately, culturally, it is ingrained into me that rose gold is "worthless", "low grade" and all those bad stories. I'm so sorry. :blackeye: I know it's not true but I'm still having a difficult time embracing rose gold as a forever piece.

Peacechick,
Blue diamonds are super duper gray and "cold". Believe me that without the pink halo, the blue diamond will appear even grayer to the eye. This is why many blue diamonds are set in pink FCD halo; to make the grayness less prominent.
 

peacechick

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Chrono|1373503532|3480698 said:
Peacechick,
Blue diamonds are super duper gray and "cold". Believe me that without the pink halo, the blue diamond will appear even grayer to the eye. This is why many blue diamonds are set in pink FCD halo; to make the grayness less prominent.

That's fascinating, thanks for sharing! I've learnt something new. Will watch out for more examples to see this effect.
 

chrono

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Quotes are trickling in and I'm not liking the numbers as they are WAY above my budget. :-o
 

pinkjewel

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Chrono|1373633183|3481696 said:
Quotes are trickling in and I'm not liking the numbers as they are WAY above my budget. :-o

Oh,no! that's a bummer. Why is it that gold has gone down dramatically in price- yet the settings continue to rise?
 

chrono

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PinkJewel,
I have bemoaned the same thing time after time. :lol: Both gold and platinum has come down recently but setting prices have continued to climb. Some pencil sharpening is currently going on in the background. ERD never received my original 2 emails but a quick phone call took care of that.

Interesting cost comparison: JbEG is the most expensive, more than Maytal! WF and ERD are less than both, and are very close price-wise. To be fair, these are only estimates and the final price could vary as the design is tweaked and finalized.
 

Rosebloom

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Chrono said:
Alice,
I think you are mistaken; it wasn't me but 1001 Smiles who had a bad experience with RussianGold. I hope she'll shed a bit more light on her project.

Anyway, to all, I am going to suggest something sacrilegious. Supposing instead of ideal cut melees in platinum, I went for light/medium pink sapphires in rose gold. :o Of course I wish I could afford pink FCDs and I know sapphires sparkle differently but it's just a thought. I noticed that light pink brings out blues very beautifully in diamonds, so why not spinels? Please don't kill me...

I quite like the pink sapphire idea. And I love the idea of minty green garnets.
 

Niel

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I love the idea of a colored halo but I'm not sure I like the pink. What about yellow? Or black diamonds. I know, they don't sparkle, but still.
 

alice87

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Russian Gold - very interesting and it appears that he might do custom work if only I can get Google translator to work for me. Other than that, I'm hesitant to send so many diamonds to Poland to a vendor unknown to me and others on PS.
-----
Chrono, I was replying to that part.
 

beaujolais

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While I love an east/west oval, I don't care for them if they get too big looking (so maybe not too much halo), as I think they can start looking clumsy/cumbersome. JMO. You have beautiful hands, btw.

If I'm deciding between projects, I sometimes do the one that is the least like anything else I have. Having a new "flavor" can be refreshing/fun.
 

canuk-gal

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HI:

Chrono--how about trying to find a vintage (branded?) setting--something filigree or ornate. Look at Circe's awesome finds... There are so many vendors that potentially could be a source for this. If you save on a vintage setting--then you have some $ to spare for another custom piece.

And for the FCD's--I like bypass rings. Not saying they are inexpensive to produce--but I like the concept. Do you? Certainly the Russian organic styles are desirable...I am addicted to that Romanov jewellery site.....

For comfort sake, I will tell you I have done a lot of custom work...and I have to readjust my thinking and go into it with an open mind. Most times the wallet follows :bigsmile: . I have very few regrets with bespoke work. You have desirable, unique, uncommon stones--their settings should follow!

cheers--Sharon
 

chrono

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Niel,
I'm not sure if I like yellow with blue. I definitely do not like black diamonds. :bigsmile:

Alice,
Thanks for the clarification. Your links and ideas certainly opened my mind to other options.

Sharon,
I am much too fussy and particular about settings to find something ready made on my own. I've been looking for 2nd hand settings for several years now but they tend to be for round stones only. I don't like filigree and overly ornate. I am also very particular with coloured sidestones/melee treatment and diamond melee quality (cut, colour and clarity). I don't mind putting my smaller and less expensive stones in vintage settings (which I've done so for my tourmaline, garnet and sapphire) which saved me a lot of money, which I now have for this very special piece. ;))

My original idea for the FCDs was a bypass setting but in the end, I found them much too plain and boring. If you've found something interesting, I hope you'll share. I admit to being too OCD for my own good and don't have the confidence in giving the jeweller free reign. I've done more than 6 bespoke projects and those that I've not been very specific about, I've also been the most disappointed with the end result. Often, I feel that the stone(s) tells me that it wants to be set a certain way, then the design solidifies in my mind over time. Once I have it fully fleshed out in my mind with every detail and curve, I am then ready to proceed with its creation. This is why certain vendors /benches and I are not a good mix, no matter how great they are. Some vendors like free reign which I understand and support but it's not my style. Once we agree 100% on the details, then and only then am I ready to let go for the jeweller to work his/her magic.

To All,
Sonoma brought up a good thought - is the spinel too large for an EW setting? The stone is 10 x 8 mm so the LxW difference isn't that huge and you can see both proportions in the hand shots on Page 1 of this thread. I want something different so I think going EW does that for me but I am interested in finding out if most of you readers / lurkers feel that the stone is too large for this orientation.
 

beaujolais

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I wonder if you could get some adhesive putty (the kind you can put posters up with, without the need to put holes in your walls) and squish something up so it can sit on top of your finger east-west for a minute. Obviously, don't assume it is secure as if it falls off and bounces on the floor you will be cursing me. Or do you have one of those stone holders that are like rings with claws (which some people don't used for fear of chipping). The size may be fine, some people like and can carry off larger stones east-west.
 

chrono

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Not quite centered on the 4th finger.

blue_27.jpg
 
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