Beginner Questions

[ExplorePS]

Hi PSers! Call me slow but I had no idea there was a "pearl" forum and I'm so new to this beautiful world of jewelry without diamonds. Can you please point me in the right direction with these basic inquiries. Thanks in advance!

1) So I was trying to do my own research as it seems like Takahashi is a good place to shop? I was trying to do some browsing and I'm struggling with the website. Even though I pick English, not all of the website reverts to something I can figure out how to browse. Any tips or am I on the wrong website?

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takahashi-pearl.co.jp

2) I've had this earring set for a long time... think I picked it up from Anthropologie or some similar store. I know it's not real but I've loved it so much that in the event that it breaks or I lose it, I would love to remake something similar. Is there something exactly like this already for purchase? Or would you custom pick out your pearls and then get a vendor to make it? Not sure if it's like the diamond world where you ship it to someone to custom make?

 

[Snowdrop13]

I think people follow Takahashi on IG and contact them through there? I’m sure someone will be along shortly to confirm.

There’s a ton to learn about pearls, a bit like diamonds. I’d recommend Pearl Paradise for an initial browse and learning. I’m pretty sure they could help with remaking your earrings as they have a huge inventory and will do virtual consultations.

 

[mayaINaU]

I think people follow Takahashi on IG and contact them through there? I’m sure someone will be along shortly to confirm.

There’s a ton to learn about pearls, a bit like diamonds. I’d recommend Pearl Paradise for an initial browse and learning. I’m pretty sure they could help with remaking your earrings as they have a huge inventory and will do virtual consultations.

Yes, I communicated with Takahashi on Instagram to make a purchase.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

welcome to the forum @ExplorePS and to the nacre side

 

[MamaBear]

I, too, have used Instagram to contact Takahashi.

 

[ExplorePS]

welcome to the forum @ExplorePS and to the nacre side

haha thank you! I definitely had to look up "nacre" so I'm learning a lot already.

Follow up question - how does one start to get an idea of pricing? Is Pearl Paradise equivalent to a "WhiteFlash or BGD" of diamonds? Safe place to purchase and reasonable pricing?

Also if I'm finding pearl necklaces on Etsy that have the same look as Tahitians etc... are those "fake/synthetic?" Or is the same concept as "lab grown diamond?"

TIA!

 

[NY_Resonant]

haha thank you! I definitely had to look up "nacre" so I'm learning a lot already.

Follow up question - how does one start to get an idea of pricing? Is Pearl Paradise equivalent to a "WhiteFlash or BGD" of diamonds? Safe place to purchase and reasonable pricing?

Also if I'm finding pearl necklaces on Etsy that have the same look as Tahitians etc... are those "fake/synthetic?" Or is the same concept as "lab grown diamond?"

TIA!

Etsy has lots of fakes sadly.

Pearl Paradise is a very reputable, reliable company with a great return policy. For Akoya pearls specifically, you will pay more and get worse quality overall than if you go directly to a Japanese vendor based on my personal experience and from what i've seen/heard from other member's on this board. If you want a direct comparison, see this thread:

3x GIA certified Hanadama pictures and Takahashi gem comparison

I was very curious about this new GIA certified Hanadama at Pearl Paradise, so despite finding the price a bit too expensive I decided to buy 3 pairs to see if I loved any of them. They came very quickly in the mail after ordering. None of them, sadly, wowed me but one of the pairs was...

www.pricescope.com

Note: This was a comparison using the Pearl Paradise more expensive Hanadama GIA certified pearls, I assume those are better than their regular Hanadama since they charged more for them.

 

[pearlsngems]

You can't necessarily make a direct comparison between gemstones and pearls.

• There are many natural gemstones but very few natural (wild) pearls, as the pearl market has been a cultured (farmed) pearl market for the past 100+ years. Cultured pearls are considered real pearls.

• There is no kind of pearl that corresponds to a lab grown gemstone. Cultured pearls are formed in a living oyster, in the ocean (or in the case of freshwater pearls, in fresh water lakes) , not in a lab or factory. They usually have a nucleus (usually a shell bead) but the nacre has been laid down by a living oyster.

• Just as there are imitation gems (as opposed to synthetic or lab grown), there are various kinds of imitation pearls. Most are glass beads with a pearly-looking manmade coating that is derived from fish scales. Some cheap ones are plastic beads with that coating. Some imitation pearls are called "shell pearls" -shell beads with a manmade coating.

There are Etsy sellers who sell genuine cultured saltwater pearls (Tahitians, south sea pearls, golden ssp and akoyas) but there are others who are actually selling freshwater pearls (some dyed) while listing them as Tahitians etc. It's important to buy from reliable sellers. And as stated above, watch out for "shell pearls" that are really just fakes.

There is a thread stickied on this forum about trusted sellers. Off the top of my head I can tell you that the following sell genuine Tahitian pearls: Rolay (known as pearl society on eBay), druzydesign1 (druzydesign on eBay), OceansCove, OceanRhyme, WenPearls, KongsPearl, TahitiPearlsdesigner, and I'm sure there are many others.

Pearl Paradise sells lovely pearls-- I own many-- and their customer service is excellent. They have a generous return policy. I don't know that I would assume that their GIA certified Hanadama pearls are either better or worse than their regular Hanadama-- the only distinction I know of is that they have been sent to the GIA for certification, while their other Hanadama went to the Pearl Science Lab in Japan. Perhaps the price difference reflects the cost of GIA certifying them? That being said, no doubt some Hanadama pearls are better than others (being formed in oysters, not in a factory!), so if you are thinking of buying from them, by all means ask for photos so you can compare.

As NY_Resonant mentioned, some folks have bought at better prices directly from Japan. If not being able to return the pearls is not a consideration (it would be for me), then I expect you can save money that way. You may also find more lustrous pearls. Remember there is always a range-- even in Hanadama grade-- and I expect PP could also source higher quality Hanadama pearls.

There is no universal grading when it comes to pearls, unlike diamonds. This is because there are just too many factors used in grading pearls, more than the 4 Cs.

BTW if you would like to learn more about pearls, I have 2 recommendations:

1. The excellent Pearl Buying Guide by Renee Newman. The 6th edition from 2017 is the most up to date regarding developments in Chinese pearl farming. This is the edition I am referring to:
Pearl Buying Guide 6th edition, by Renee Newman listing on Amazon

2. The CPAA has a great course on pearls called "Pearls As One". One of the codes you can use to take the course for free is JOTT (posted on YouTube by Jewels of the Trade channel).
This is the website for the course:
https://www.pearlsasone.org

I've taken this course and find it fascinating. The videos and photos are great. One of the best parts is the Comments / Q&A section after each chapter. I reread the course periodically just to read the latest comments! Never stop learning....

 

[ExplorePS]

@NY_Resonant - Appreciate you pointing out the price benefits between vendors. I'm such a newbie that my untrained eye can't even tell what an Akyoa looks like and the distinguishing factors. I can tell from the forum that it seems to be a coveted type of pearl. I wish there was a local jewelry to see the types in person but it seems like that's rare in the states!

@pearlsngems - Wow wow wow... I think you should write your own blog/educational guide. Your explanations are so easy for me to follow and understand and it's clear that you have such a passion for pearls! Very neat and thanks for sharing your wisdom!

I'm not sure if this is a blessing or a curse but I wonder if I should stay naïve to the world of real pearls and high quality pearls? To put it in diamond terms, I've never been the one to get really technical about angles and light performance. I feel like I'm a "C" student when it comes to the 4 Cs... and as long it is eye clean to me (I don't own a loupe) and I buy from a reputable vendor, then generally I'm all set. Perhaps I don't need to get to the fancy AAA grading because my untrained eye is ok with it just like my tolerance for diamonds.

I want to keep exploring, but I do have something specific in mind that caught my eye! If I were ever to journey into the pearl world I think it would be a gorgeous ombre necklace like @athenaworth or @MakingTheGrade has shown in the "what are you wearing thread." Hope ya'll don't mind the shout out but you two ladies are the reason why I keep coming back to this specific Pearl forum and day dreaming. I hope I don't have expensive taste!

Not knowing where to start and feeling like DMing a vendor is a waste of their time as I'm still learning....Are there any vendors that have this type of look pre-made already? Pearl Paradise didn't seem to have this and I didn't feel like I am the stage to have a serious call with them. What is the best inexpensive way to get this look in terms of the type of pearls. I think the only thing I figured out is the green colored/darker ones are Tahitians. Sorry I'm a slow learning and TIA for any more tips!

 

[ExplorePS]

I found these two off the Takahashi IG page that was posted back in 2021. Any thoughts on the general pricing of the two necklaces? I was going to guess that the longer strand might cost more but the other strange has larger pearls?

Also does shorter or longer give off a more formal or casual vibe in your opinion? I've been trying to picture how I would best wear this on a day to day basis.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

I found these two off the Takahashi IG page that was posted back in 2021. Any thoughts on the general pricing of the two necklaces? I was going to guess that the longer strand might cost more but the other strange has larger pearls?

Also does shorter or longer give off a more formal or casual vibe in your opinion? I've been trying to picture how I would best wear this on a day to day basis.

@MakingTheGrade has a strand just like that
it is just gorgeous and she gives all pearls a young edgy look,
she has a thread, maybe something like my entire pearl collection ? here abouts but i have to get ready for work but it wont be too hard for you to find

if you are ever worried about fake pearls just rub a pearl on the front of your front tooth - a real pearl will feel gritty -i kid you not it is easy-pezzy
sometimes if you look closely at a drill hole you can see if a pearl is dyed, you will see like the coating where its been drilled (not the best description but you will know what i mean when you see it

i am only a c+ when it comes to pearls (-probably a c- when it comes to diamonds )
so i just play around with the cheaper 'freshies' from Wen while i practice buying on line

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Hi and welcome!
This was my ombre thread if you wanted more photos and details about the pearls:

Ombré Tahitian and akoya strand

Wahoo! It’s here! While I wait in line at the post office to acquire it, I thought I’d start off with all the vendor photos I’ve accumulated. It’s a graduated strand that goes from 10-11.6mm. 19 Tahitians and 20 akoyas. Apparently 10mm top tier akoya are increasingly hard to find currently...

www.pricescope.com

My strand was over 4k back in 2021 (which was a lot for me but the Mikimoto strand that started my obsession is i'm sure over 25k since this one is over 90k https://www.longsjewelers.com/products/pm0987), not sure the price now for the same quality assuming someone can put it together with tahitians and akoya (usually it's WSS but I prefer the luster of akoya). That being said, if you just like the look and don't mind off round or blemishes you can probably do it for cheaper, and if you're ok with dyed or imitation pearls then even more so lol.

Edited to add: Yikes, this one is 43k and has smaller pearls with less ombre..

Passionoir Black South Sea Cultured Pearl Necklace with Diamond Clasp MZP10232BDXW | MIKIMOTO

Inspired by the chemical reaction of the strong contrast between the beauty of pearls and the mysterious black color, “PASSIONOIR” further pursues the possibilities of pearls.

www.mikimotoamerica.com

 

[pearlsngems]

I have very recently stopped suggesting that people rub pearls on their teeth due to reading about a pearl being scratched that way (teeth are harder than pearls). If you need to test pearls I would suggest you use other tests.
For example, you can rub 2 of the pearls in a strand together to see if they feel gritty (nacre) or smooth (rough). I would suggest using pearls near the clasp for this and don't rub too hard!

There are other tests, but I just wanted to say that about teeth.

Also @ExplorePS, just as general rule, if all other quality factors are equal (luster, cleanliness of surface, matching, shape) south sea pearls and Tahitians will tend to cost more than akoya pearls. ETA: Of course there will be exceptions. Brand name can push price way up, for example. Mikimoto for the top grade akoyas, and for prices of high end SSP check out Jewelmer and Paspaley for example!

 

[pearlsngems]

... That being said, if you just like the look and don't mind off round or blemishes you can probably do it for cheaper, and if you're ok with dyed or imitation pearls then even more so lol.
...

I agree! Baroque / circlé (ringed) SSP and Tahitian pearls cost much less than round ones, and they have such an interesting appearance! I prefer them, personally. Etsy is actually not a bad place to look for that.

If your heart is set on large round pearls but your budget doesn't allow that, there is nothing wrong with nice imitation pearls. The best ones (e.g. Majorica) are pricey but sometimes you can find a nice strand for not too much on eBay.

Before I was able to afford Tahitians, I bought a nice circlé strand of dyed freshwater pearls. I wore that for years, and truth be told, I still have one top I like to wear it with just because the colors and neckline go well together.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

I have very recently stopped suggesting that people rub pearls on their teeth due to reading about a pearl being scratched that way (teeth are harder than pearls). If you need to test pearls I would suggest you use other tests.
For example, you can rub 2 of the pearls in a strand together to see if they feel gritty (nacre) or smooth (rough). I would suggest using pearls near the clasp for this and don't rub too hard!

There are other tests, but I just wanted to say that about teeth.

Also @ExplorePS, just as general rule, if all other quality factors are equal (luster, cleanliness of surface, matching, shape) south sea pearls and Tahitians will tend to cost more than akoya pearls. ETA: Of course there will be exceptions. Brand name can push price way up, for example. Mikimoto for the top grade akoyas, and for prices of high end SSP check out Jewelmer and Paspaley for example!

thank you for the info

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

I agree! Baroque / circlé (ringed) SSP and Tahitian pearls cost much less than round ones, and they have such an interesting appearance! I prefer them, personally. Etsy is actually not a bad place to look for that.

If your heart is set on large round pearls but your budget doesn't allow that, there is nothing wrong with nice imitation pearls. The best ones (e.g. Majorica) are pricey but sometimes you can find a nice strand for not too much on eBay.

Before I was able to afford Tahitians, I bought a nice circlé strand of dyed freshwater pearls. I wore that for years, and truth be told, I still have one top I like to wear it with just because the colors and neckline go well together.

ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
i still cant find my blue dyed fresh water $30 strand that started my love of wearing pearls but i still have the blue top i always wore with them
the strand broke and i remember putting them in a bag till i could find someone to string them -which i now have -i have found the bracelet and two odd loose ones ive picked up randomly off the floor -but i cannot find that bag - i know i got more than my money's worth out of that strand (it was long with alternating silver beads) but i think i was really attached to them to still be missing them years latter

 

[pearlsngems]

Also! If you learn to string them yourself (not hard; many of us do that) you can buy loose pearls and arrange them however you like.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Honestly rearranging the pearls and making bracelets into necklaces into anklets into whatever I want is one of my favorite things about pearls!

 

[ExplorePS]

@Daisys and Diamonds - I don't think I mind wearing fake pearls (I think?? without having seeing and experiencing high end ones that you lovely ladies are wearing). I'm so glad that you mentioned about drill holes though. The picture of my drop earrings have holes in it. Another common pendant look I've seen have the necklace chain going through the actual pearl, however, it's only on less expensive pendants via Etsy but not on legitimate sellers like Pearls of Paradise. The "true pendants" I've seen there is some sort of "bail" I think is the term where there is metal that attaches to the necklace."

Is my assumption correct that a truly good pearl (Ayoka or South Sea or Taitian) is too valuable to drill through it and it could compromise the pearl's longevity?

@MakingTheGrade - I have seen your amazing thread and thank you for sharing your pricing. It helps me have some sort of perspective. I'm not even daring enough to broach the topic to my husband to come up with a future budget for pearls. It certainly is pricey to the point that it makes me wonder at that point, would I rather be putting the funds toward a diamond project? However, one can only have so many diamond looks though so maybe it's time to dive (sorrrryyyy cheesy pun) into the pearl world!

I think if I'm honest with myself and my overall jewelry long term trends and usage, I would be definitely ok with off round/blemishes. Not sure about dyed or imitation though but perhaps? Do you have a recommendation on how to consider making a version like yourself... not sure if Takahashi is the right candidate if they focus on high-end products. I don't think I can string pearls... oh my goodness... I saw Yssie's step by step post on how she does it and it brings me back to the teenager years making friendship bracelets that turned out wonky. I think I would be going to "best bang for your buck to get the look" route?! Also, hope you don't mind being my potential pearl inspiration even if it's a dream project that may or may not come into fruition!

@pearlsngems - Thanks for breaking down the price point by type of pearls. I'm a budget buyer so no Mikimotos for me but it would be a fun story to travel to Japan and buy directly from Takahashi. I recall a beautiful post where a couple traveled there and bought several items!

In the diamond world, I think most people would say cut matters a lot... in the pearl world would it generally be luster to best gauge the quality? I would assuming matching/shape are more or preferences and have seen that round is more costly than baroque style (hopefully I learned that right).

******************
PS - I am so impressed with all of you who can string your own pearls. Way to be crafty! I once took a few jewelry making classes at a community college. I thought I enjoyed wearing jewelry so maybe this will be right up my alley. Well that was a big "NOPE" as it meant playing with fire and solder and tools... haha I'm not that great with my hands. Fun experience though but I think if there was a pearl stringing class I would do it in a heart beat and learn... I think I need a hands on teacher but it seems too intimidating!!! Kudos to all who can do it though!

 

[pearlsngems]

...
Is my assumption correct that a truly good pearl (Ayoka or South Sea or Taitian) is too valuable to drill through it and it could compromise the pearl's longevity?
...
In the diamond world, I think most people would say cut matters a lot... in the pearl world would it generally be luster to best gauge the quality? I would assuming matching/shape are more or preferences and have seen that round is more costly than baroque style (hopefully I learned that right). ....

Drilling is done or not done according to how one wants to use the pearl.

• Undrilled SSP can be worn beautifully in the "Lavalier" collection nets that Paspaley makes. I have seen this style from other designers as well.:
https://www.paspaley.com/pearl-collections/lavalier.html

• A fine pearl that is going to be worn as a pendant is usually not fully drilled through. Usually a bale of some sort is used and the drilling is done according to the bale. The drilling is not always straight down; I had my Tahitian drop set with this bale:



• Fine pearls to be strung will need to be fully drilled.

As to which quality is the most important in pearls, yes, it's luster. But other qualities have a lot of impact on price.
Roundness is most highly desired in pearls, and as fully round pearls are more scarce, their price is higher.
Clean surface increases value.
Color can be important. Among GSS pearls, deep gold color is more rare and therefore more valuable than lighter gold or yellows colors.
Matching is tricky among Tahitian and Golden SSP (for example), so very well matched strands cost more.

Basically any quality that is less common makes for higher value.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

I think for me I used to be more into diamond projects but then with lab diamonds and things, they sort of lost their romance for me.
What I love about pearls is that they come from something living that’s fleeting, they’re not an infinite resource (hence the recent price increases) and so far nobody really makes “fake” pearls out of similar organic material. I also like that pearls are not so flashy and shiny. I can stealth wear pearls that are pricey knowing that most people don’t have a good sense of pearl coats and won’t judge me like they might if I was wearing a large diamond haha.

Decided to wear my ombre and supearl today!

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

@ExplorePS if you like faux pearls definatly no judgement and you are in very good company, Mrs Barbara Bush, Coco Channel. Queen Alexandra (DIL of Queen Victoria and wife of Edward vii, Jackie Kennedy ) there are more but i only juts rolled out of bed and cant think yet with it being all cold and dark

 

[ExplorePS]

@pearlsngems - Very unique bale and appreciate you demonstrating an example! You got me thinking as I'm open to the drilled look as opposed to the netting you shared. Perhaps I should just consider a half-neck look. Either with them in a row at the bottom (example from Pearl's Paradise with Ayoka) or the tin cup look (from Pearls of Joy).

Question - I think I prefer the pearls in a row together. I believe it isn't ideal for the pearls to touch as it could cause marks etc, which is why there is a knot in between? My preference would be to see the gold for spacing but perhaps in person my eye wouldn't be drawn to the fact that there are two different type of materials?
Would Pearl's Paradise by the right vendor to brainstorm this idea with you think?



@MakingTheGrade - Makes sense on the your feelings with lab diamonds. Shucksssss (sorry don't kick me out for another pun joke) that I didn't catch onto the beauty of pearls until after a recent price increase. I prefer the understated look as well and surprised by my interest. I've always heard it's something you enjoy as you get older so I guess the adage is true. I didn't think I would consider this realm until at least turning 40. Maybe one day I'll get a beautiful legit ombre set like you. But until then, appreciate your ability to wear it so well with confidence and grace! Looks lovely on you!

@Daisys and Diamonds - Thanks for the welcoming vibes. I would trade you in weather though... sticky and hot where I am. Miss those puffy jacket opportunities!

 

[pearlsngems]

Knots between pearls serve several purposes:

• As you mentioned, they help prevent pearls rubbing against each other. However, many vintage Japanese necklaces are only knotted between the end few pearls. So they are not obligatory.

• They make the strand more flexible. But this can also be done with tiny beads as spacers in between the pearls (but you have to consider whether the spacers are of a material to scratch the adjaent pearls-- like some gemstone beads-- or leave tarnish on the pearls-- like silver beads). Catherine Cardellini uses gold filled beads: https://www.catherinecardellinipearls.com
Another spacer I have used in some cases is silicone bumpers (little lentil-shaped spacers made of silicone.) Beadalon makes them and a similar item (Bead Huggers) is sold by Fire Mountain Gems. My GSS necklace has silicone bead spacers and the necklace is strung on wire, with a hidden clasp.

• They keep you from possibly losing more than one pearl if the thread breaks.

• They can be a design element. Kojima Pearl Co. uses contrasting colors of thread sometimes; the brightly colored knots create an interesting look. https://kojimapearl.com/collections/pearl-necklaces

Pearls can be strung so many ways.

 

[pearlsngems]

Continuing on, pearls can be drilled wider and strung on leather, too. It doesn't have to be thread. I have also used thin hemp rope for a casual long station necklace of pearls and other beads (fluorite, malachite, amethysts, furnace glass beads.)

Or you can eliminate the use of a stringing material and connect the pearls with little wire-wrapped loops. A short piece of wire is passed through the drill hole and a little wrapped loop made on either side, and then loops are connected to the next loop. Or the loops can be connected by way of another connector element that comes between them.

I'm sure there are more ideas as well. It's all about the look you want. If you can imagine it, you (or someone else) can make it.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

@pearlsngems - Very unique bale and appreciate you demonstrating an example! You got me thinking as I'm open to the drilled look as opposed to the netting you shared. Perhaps I should just consider a half-neck look. Either with them in a row at the bottom (example from Pearl's Paradise with Ayoka) or the tin cup look (from Pearls of Joy).

Question - I think I prefer the pearls in a row together. I believe it isn't ideal for the pearls to touch as it could cause marks etc, which is why there is a knot in between? My preference would be to see the gold for spacing but perhaps in person my eye wouldn't be drawn to the fact that there are two different type of materials?
Would Pearl's Paradise by the right vendor to brainstorm this idea with you think?



@MakingTheGrade - Makes sense on the your feelings with lab diamonds. Shucksssss (sorry don't kick me out for another pun joke) that I didn't catch onto the beauty of pearls until after a recent price increase. I prefer the understated look as well and surprised by my interest. I've always heard it's something you enjoy as you get older so I guess the adage is true. I didn't think I would consider this realm until at least turning 40. Maybe one day I'll get a beautiful legit ombre set like you. But until then, appreciate your ability to wear it so well with confidence and grace! Looks lovely on you!

@Daisys and Diamonds - Thanks for the welcoming vibes. I would trade you in weather though... sticky and hot where I am. Miss those puffy jacket opportunities!

i like both those necklace ideas
you need more than one pearl option !
i like knots, even on faux pearls,
i like gemstones mixed with pearls so i deffinatly get them knotted
and as @pearlsngems says, if each one is knotted only one will come off if the silk breaks
Recently my mother's pearls broke on me, i didnt even drop a single pearl, the knots did their job

 

[ExplorePS]

@pearlsngems - Thank you for taking the time to explain all the many options. Makes sense on the necklace being more flexible and not losing pearls. I'm thinking about a tennis bracelet that I have and you are right that the structure is different. If the bracelet were to brake, I won't be running around on the floor looking for all the stones. Everything will still be in-tact in the setting, looking for the chain. I guess everything is a different ball game when it comes to more expensive pearls!

I'll keep learning and thinking about this but greatly appreciate you taking the time to respond. Very kind of you!