What type of setting..Please help

[jenjay]

Please help....

I have seen this setting at 2 online stores, but would like to see if anyone else carries it. I think if I could figure out what type of setting it is, I could search by that. It looks like a tension setting, but I don''t think it is. Any help would be appreciated.


http://www.sunjewelry.com/er2793.html

 

[valeria101]

Assuming this is it:

it looks like one downright dangerous modification of the tension setting. The two short metal arms holding the stone do not appear capable to provide nearly as much tension to grip the stone as a tension setting would. Traditional jewelry metals need special matalurgic treatment to be used in tension settings. This model does not appear suitable for such treatment.

Now... this may sound scary, but I am not remotely an expert. There are several bench jewelers posting on this forum that can clarify the issue. Usually I would not post a "scare", but in this case I have no means to check the hunch on my own (the making of tension settings is a rather obscure speciality) and I thought I''d better mention before you go for it as is.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

I don''t think it is as unsound as it might seem,

The percieved danger is more a case of vertigo.

That doesn''t mean I don''t have issues with the design.

On this ring, I''d like to hide a jump ring and wires securing the girdle - keeping the stone steady, and soldered to tighten the two faces.

Heck I think I might make one, just to show you

 

[qtiekiki]

it is an interesting unique setting. with that being said, it looks scary to me too compare to other tension setting that I love.

here''s some information that I found about tension setting:

The Concept of Tension Setting:
The concept of tension setting stones is over 40 years old. In tension setting, the stone or gem is held in place at two points on the girdle of the stone or gem by the “tension” or “spring” of the metal band.
Advantages:
The intense pressure of the tension setting holding your stone or gem on two side allows a full profile view of the center stone. There is no comparable setting style which allows so much of the stone to be exposed to the view. This maximum exposure is the best way to showcase the brilliance of diamonds and the color of gems by allowing the greatest amount of surrounding light to reflect through and off the set stone.
Safer Than A Prong Setting:
Tension settings are considered to be safer than prong settings. The prongs on prong settings may become loose over time, therefore requiring care, and maintenance, and adjustments over time. The prongs may also catch easily on clothing and other objects, causing them to come loose or break away. Tension settings cannot be so easily manipulated. In tension settings, a great amount of pressure holds the stone in place, requiring a concerted effort to loosen or remove the stone by purposefully springing the entire setting away from the stone to remove it.
Materials:
Initially, precious metals, such as gold, were used in the manufacturing of tension settings. Gold, however, is a relatively soft material, and in order to achieve the required “tension” to hold the stone under pressure, the metal needs to undergo specific techniques.

There are two techniques for creating the necessary pressure for tension settings, and both have been patented. One method is the use of heat treatable gold and platinum alloys for their use in creating tension rings. Age hardening or heat treating the metal gives it the necessary rigidity for tension setting. The second technique is to work harden the metal. Work hardening the metal can create enough rigidity on the gold or platinum shank of the ring for it to function as a tension setting.

It is with great caution that one should think of acquiring such an important purchase as a tension ring in gold or platinum by anyone other than a qualified and experienced tension ring craftsman, as the danger of the stone falling out is great.

The last paragraph is probably the most important when considering a purchase of a tension ring.

 

[jenjay]

Thank all of you for your comments.

I emailed the jeweler regarding the setting type.

This is what they said....

"The setting is not a tension setting. The structure that holds the diamond has notches in it that is set with the edges of the diamond. This way it makes it more secure."


I am not a jewelry expert, but do this mean that the setting will be secure? They do give a lifetime warranty.

 

[valeria101]

Date: 1/21/2005 9:10:28 AM
Author: jenjay

I am not a jewelry expert, but do this mean that the setting will be secure? They do give a lifetime warranty.

Does this mean that if you loose the diamond they are going to replace it ?

 

[valeria101]

Date: 1/21/2005 121:21 AM
Author: Platinumsmith

On this ring, I''d like to hide a jump ring and wires securing the girdle - keeping the stone steady, and soldered to tighten the two faces

 

[valeria101]

Date: 1/21/2005 121:21 AM
Author: Platinumsmith

The percieved danger is more a case of vertigo.

That doesn''t mean I don''t have issues with the design. On this ring, I''d like to hide a jump ring and wires securing the girdle ...

Vertigo... that was mine this time

When you say "jump ring" is it something like the version below has ?

 

[qtiekiki]

Date: 1/21/2005 9:10:28 AM
Author: jenjay
Thank all of you for your comments.

I emailed the jeweler regarding the setting type.

This is what they said....

''The setting is not a tension setting. The structure that holds the diamond has notches in it that is set with the edges of the diamond. This way it makes it more secure.''


I am not a jewelry expert, but do this mean that the setting will be secure? They do give a lifetime warranty.

even with the notches, it still seems to be tension that is holding the diamond. the notches might help to hold the diamond in place, but without tension, the diamond can be knock out of those notches so easily. I don''t know it just doesn''t make sense to me. So what do they call it?? Notch setting????

Valerie, the second ring you post with the extra safety ring. Do you know if they a picture showing the safety feature?

 

[valeria101]

Date: 1/21/2005 4:13:14 PM
Author: qtiekiki

Valerie, the second ring you post with the extra safety ring.
Do you know if they a picture showing the safety feature?

That one comes from Dirtcheapdiamonds and there are no other photos. Perhaps they could help with a comment.

 

[valeria101]

Posting for Platinumsmith:


> Even with the jump ring I''d still classify that wishbone ring as
> tension set. With a square stone the struts can be straight and
> more secure. Hiding the ring determines it is not that affective
> and that tension is the key in holding the stone.
>
> Tension setting is ok. It restricts design potential and there are
> after sale care issues with resizing and even polishing. It is
> definitely not safer. I have made only a few tension set rings.
> There are only a few good alloys you can use. The possible designs
> are, by their simplicity, better handled by machine. On the other
> hand I have soldered jump rings and or struts onto many hundreds of
> tension set rings.
>
> If I see one, I say ''can I fix that''
>
> Phillip