Soldering Platinum???

[burnban35]

If a jeweler has to solder a new head to a platinum ring with white gold as to not burn the side diamonds with the heat needed to solder with platinum, how does the jeweler then set the stone into the platinum head. Is heat involved in this part of the process? How do they bend the prongs over the diamond to hold it in?

Would a jeweler size a platinum ring with platinum if the ring has stones set in it, or would they be likely to size with white gold for the "heat" reason?

If I have a platinum ring with pave diamonds that needs a new head to hold the center stone and I need my ring sized down, what kind of work should I expect a good jeweler to do? I have have received mixed information and am needing some input.

I hope someone can help.

M.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Hi Burnban,

You have been given good advice. The stones in the pave'' would definately burn if platinum solder is used. Using w/g solder there is still a chance of burning the diamonds (maybe just slightly clouding those closer to the heat) as the platinum itself will create the temperature, should he keep the heat on a fraction too long. He offering a skillfull service. It is a good thing that he told you he would have to use w/g as a lot of jewellers use it anyway, just because it is easier, so this suggests to me that you have come across a real proffessional.

As far as soldering the band to resize the ring it is doubtfull he will need w/g solder. There needs to be, say 6mm distance between the join and the stones depending on the metal thickness and tourch he uses etc. I am sure he will know if it ia a risk or not.

After the setting head is soldered in place then a setter will manually set the diamond by hand. there is no heat involved. Here is a detailed photo by photo account of how the setting work might be done, made by one of the pricescope members, Feydakin.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Added to that,

If the pave'' ring is sized down a small amount then you should be ok, if some stones loosen they can be tightened by a setter without any damage to the ring. If the ring needs to be sized down a lot it may become a problem where the pave'' area is forced to bend too far, thus opening up the holes too much. It may be necessary to add something into the band itself to make it smaller and sizing beads are often used to much the same affect.

A larger sized pave’ resize can be a very tricky job and not one to be taken lightly.

If the ring in question is the same as the one that needs a new setting head and the size is considerably smaller it is possible that he would want to cut out the expected size, then un-mount the old head - leaving two halves, do a little to decrease the shanks circumference at this point, then mount the new setting at a slightly different (wider) angle thereby bring the two ends of the sized shank closer and therefore leaving less risky bending then he would have to do if it were mounted straight onto an un-sized band. This increases the workload and would only be necessary where it was thought the sizing would ruin the pave''. He may use an entirely but equally workable method.

Don’t worry though. If the pave'' section is solid and the ring is going on the same persons hand then all the above is not relevant.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

One more addittion,

I have never had to re-size a pave ring and found trouble, either bending to far ot not being able to use the appropriate amount of heat. All I have had is instances where they have loosened to the expected degree.

In remounting a new setting head, I would have advised you that you may well need an entirely new ring. Has this been offered/suggested? Depending on the type of pave'', it may be that the stones will burn a little (a small chance) but they can easily be exchanged for new diamonds, depending on how easy they are to get out, and changing the stones this way is probably less of an expense then you imagine. At any rate, I am sure he will bear the costs if that happens.

Hope this helps,

Phillip

 

[StevL]

Another option which may be better for you and your ring.

Find a jeweler that has a laser welder and all your repairs on the ring, putting a new head on, etc. can be done using platinum and heat will not be a problem. All the brand name manufactures use laser welders to repair their own products.

Why doesn''t every jeweler have a laser welder?

Simple, they are expensive to purchase and change bothers a few.

 

[burnban35]

Thank you Phillip and Steve for the reply. It''s very helpful information.

And thanks for the link to setting a diamond.

Michelle