similar setting?

[katz]

Hi all,
I''m kind of new to the forums (joined today actually, but already posted on a few threads). Fun!
Anyway, I am planning on getting a cushion around 1.5-1.75 carats and have been casually browsing various sites online for ideas.
I found something I liked on the Leon Mege site. I attached the picture below.
I need help figuring out what I am looking at. It is pretty easy for me to see the shank, but I can''t tell what is going on around the stone. I also noticed it has different style prongs than the claw style he uses on a lot of his rings.
What is it called when there is metal that encircles the center stone at about the level of the girdle? I''m not talking about bevel, there are still prongs too. Is it called a basket setting? Something else?
I love the 3-sides on the shank - is this considered pave or bead set? I also love how delicate the shank looks (I have very bony fingers

).
Know of any designers who do work similar to this setting?
Thanks so much!
kat

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

There are very few jewellers who work to Leons standards.

The setting is known as a basket setting here, but I am not in the US.

You can find cheaper versions of something similar, but the workmanship will not be the same unless you have cash to burn. Branded names never work to his standards.

You have good taste.

Replicating Leons work at his standards takes a week at least even for the best jewellers.

 

[valeria101]

Date: 8/22/2005 7:21:16 AM
Author: Platinumsmith

Branded names never work to his standards.

True enough. I can''t find the best workmanship in stores, unless it is high end for both the shop and the jewel. Not fair...

That ring looks dainty, but I''d bet the diamond is 5cts not the snak of the ring 1mm wide (to keep proportions as shown).

Quite a few posters around here went for rings at this shop and there were not too many regrets - none about the product, a few about the process (too long to wait... etc.) and almost none about the price - at least when compared with the (inferior) goods provided by designer brands.

And then, Platinumsmith tried his hand at three-sided pave rings and the result is documented on a thread here. Not bad at all, I must say. And the next one can only get better

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Ana,

I wish I could talk up decorum with Leon on his Email. I respect him immensely and find inspiration in his work. I know of only a few jewellers world over who work to that standard. To accurately replicate Leon’s work is a study in platinum smiting at the highest degree. There are no jewellers like that where I am who can inspire such a high level of perfection. He is a nice guy too...

In Leon’s site, he mentions that their setter(s) work under magnification. This might explain quite a lot. I was spending some time with an engraver who uses magnification and he said he can''t understand why setters don''t use it too. I know why. Few realise that there are people who will pay for such quality.

Cheers,

Phillip

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Thank you

 

[katz]

Thank you for your feedback Platinumsmith. I checked out your website and I love your work! You should be very proud of your gorgeous 3 sided pave ring. It is nothing short of stunning.
I adore the setting you made for a 4 ct. pear. I love the drastic tapering of the shank up to the sides of the stone. Whoever is wearing that is one lucky gal!
Kat

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Thank you, I am very proud of it Kat.

I'd like to try my hand at a wedder similar to the one Leon has made. It looks very Harry Winston to me. To my mind he dictates the trends, making pieces that are near on impossible to re-produce so well. Only thing is. It may take up to 100 hours to do and that is a lot of time to not be earning any money.

 

[mepearl53]

Date: 8/22/2005 7:21:16 AM
Author: Platinumsmith

Branded names never work to his standards.

Oh Really! There are quite a few branded designers who might differ with this statement.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Would you please clarify your point. Define designer?

Any ''designer'' is free to think they design the best jewellery, but that does not mean they can work to exacting standards or even understdand design. Don''t forget we are talking about skills that few could ever achieve which take a lifetime to learn.

Perhaps you have some examples in mind?

 

[Kaleigh]

I agree with Platinumsmith. I would like to see some examples also. Leon is a mastercraftsman and he creates works of art, IMHO. Designers today although talented in their designs hardly match the kind of work that Leon creates. Just my 0.2.

 

[Tacori E-ring]

I think that is a beautiful ring. I just have one question about 3 sided diamond shanks and please feel free to direct me to a thread if this has already be discussed. Is it bad to have the diamond edge next to a plain ring. For example if you wanted to get a regular wedding band will the diamonds tear the metal up. OR if you do a 3 sided shank will the diamonds scratch each other? I know this is kind of off topic but it is something I am really curious about.

Thanks.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Tac,

It is not as bad as you would think. The tables of the diamonds are set flush, so they don''t tend to scratch much. I haven''t seen this effect over time, but I have been surprised with what I have seen as there has been no scratching at all.

Logically, any diamond that is slightly more raised or set off-straight should expose the wedder to wear due to a jutting edge etc. If the band spins the damage would be multiplied but it doesn''t seem to pan out that way.

I have not seen this question hashed out. It was mentioned in a post with a few responses but nothing conclusive.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

I missed a point.
You definately cannot have two diamond set sides sitting next to each other. They will scratch each other in no time. I wouldn''t imagine anybody has tried this because every setter knows when diamond girldles are set to touch they can break each other unless they are set extra carefully and even then you will have some chip and it is rarely attempted.

The diamonds would have to be set behind the metal for it to work and it would be hard to do it that way and make it look good = set too deep.

 

[mepearl53]

Date: 8/24/2005 6:03:47 PM
Author: Platinumsmith
Would you please clarify your point. Define designer?

Any ''designer'' is free to think they design the best jewellery, but that does not mean they can work to exacting standards or even understdand design. Don''t forget we are talking about skills that few could ever achieve which take a lifetime to learn.

Perhaps you have some examples in mind?

I was hoping you would ask that question. Of course design is subjective and anybody can really describe themselves as a designer. Because design (subjectively) is my field I would say that to be a recognized designer one would have to be recognized by their peers as displaying a extremely high degree of technical and artistic talent. These would lead to awards within the field for recognition of the designers accomplishments. The following is a "scratch the surface" list of peer recognized award winning designers from many different disciplines within the jewelry industry.

Alex Sepkus, Ambrosi, Antonini, Bary Kronen, Michael Beaudry, Charles Krypell, Chimento, Chris Correia, Christian Tse, Paolo Piovan, Fossas, JJ Marco, Brian Scholdt, Alishan, 13 time DeBeers award winning designer Damiani, Daniel K, Doris Panos, Deakin & Francis, Favero, Garavelli, Gem Platinum, Giorgio Visconti, Bibigi, Gumuchian Fils, Gurhan, Hellmuth, Henry Dunay, Jack Kelege, Jane Taylor, Jean Francois Albert, John Atencio, Jose Hess, Judith Conway, Judith Ripka, Kieselstein-Cord, Korloff, Kwiat, La Nouvelle Bague, Leo Piaao, Leslie Green, Louis Fiessler, Luca Carati, Magerit Joyas, Mark Patterson, Masriera, Mattiioli, Michael B, Michael Bondanza, Mikimoto, Orlando Orlandini, Oscar Heyman, Palmiero Carlo, Pasquale Bruni, Penny Preville, Peter Storm, Picchiotti, Piero, Richard Krementz, Titani, Robert Lee Morris, Robert Wander, Roberta Porrati, Roberto Coin, Roberto Legnazzi, Rodney Rayner, Sakamoto, Scavia, Schoeffel, Stefan Hafner, Stephen Webster, Steven Kretchmer, Suna, Susan Sadler, Tamara Comolli, Torrini, Valentin Magro, Wellendorff, Whitney Boin, Yuri Ichihashi, Yvel, Zoltan David, Jacqueline Diani, Deborah Pangle, Anthony Nak, Bapalal Keshavlal, Laura Gibson, Yossi Harari, Zydo, and the list goes on and on.

And, there are many locally recognized regionally designers, AGTA award winners (Including my store 1993), and top craft people whose work, though not seen on a national or international level, is second to none. There has never been the level of talent that there is in today''s design world and for me OR you to single one person out of the bunch as being the best is not to understand what is out there today.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Bill, let’s not be mistaken.

Your hopes can never meet this standard. Price guidelines dictate the works of any designer hoping to produce their jewels en'' mass.

Can you please produce the name a craftsmen who is in league of Leon Mege’ and give examples.

You are talking to a guy who has advanced his skills at every point and I am a fan of Leon’s work because I am a skilled operator who looks at his works with awe. I am definitely not one given to that, but I am forced to because I know what is good. I know what I am talking about, as I have made about every design you can imagine and I know the difference between casted mass-produced design and hand crafted & excellent perfection. I would definitely fault Leon’s work where I can, but no, I have to acknowledge more.

If you like I can fault the work of your designers on the same level. I am inclined to. Just give us your examples?

Regards,

Phillip

 

[mepearl53]

Phillip,

This is not a slam to LM I don''t know the man and I''m not implying his work is anything less than very fine. You asked what makes a designer and I told you and it is recognition of his peers of their design accomplishments. The partial list I gave you are on a par or better than anyone that I know of. If I had to single out the two top designers in the bridal field it would be hands down Michael Beaudry and Michael B. I don''t think you will find many in the industry that would question these two

 

[Tacori E-ring]

Phillip-
Thank you! I have seen wedding bands with diamonds "embedded"? on the sides and I was just concern that it would tear up my e-ring. Our appraiser already warned us that the bottom two sapphires will probably crack over time when I stack it with a wedding band which is fine (what can we do about that now?) but I just wanted to make sure the damage would stop there. Otherwise the three sided shank isn''t worth the extra money.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Bill,

I won''t follow my inclination and critique M.B''s (x2) work because I like it too much, but I still would argue that LM''s workmanship is better.

IMO designers and craftsmen are different creatures and craftsmen design according to the skills he/she has in store and designers are more fashion oriented and their designs are limited by mass-produced manufacturing techniques (to varying degrees).

Based on this analogy you would think I have little regard for the work produced by the designers you have mentioned, but in fact I think they create designs that are an inspiration to me and more importantly they produce jewellery at an extremely high standard which lifts the standard of the jewellery that people desire.

The two different types of manufacture in place have different advantages/dissavantages. I think at the higher end, hand wrought jewellery is better, but designers offer what you want when you want it.

 

[Kaleigh]

I have to chime in here and say that the kind of work that Paltinumsmith does and the work that Leon does is in a league of it''s own, very rarley do you see that Kind of workmanship from any of the main stream designers. I have experience with this as I have sold many pieces designed by the designers that have been mentioned. Yes they have great talent in designing wonderful pieces, but just lack that extra detail that you would get from a true craftsman. These designers have a vision and they are well executed in their designs, but IMHO lack the true quality of a masterpiece that only someone like Leon or Platinumsmith can achieve. Why??? They pay every attention to detail. Designers want to design their line and make it profitable for them and then call it a day. It''s wrong for me to generalize, but this is my honest feeling from what I have seen and dealt with in the industry. All in all there is room for everyone, and if you want a designer piece, that''s great. Also there is room for those that want a true work of art. Just my 0.2.

 

[mepearl53]

Date: 8/25/2005 11:34:12 PM
Author: Platinumsmith
Bill,

I won''t follow my inclination and critique M.B''s (x2) work because I like it too much, but I still would argue that LM''s workmanship is better.

IMO designers and craftsmen are different creatures and craftsmen design according to the skills he/she has in store and designers are more fashion oriented and their designs are limited by mass-produced manufacturing techniques (to varying degrees).

Based on this analogy you would think I have little regard for the work produced by the designers you have mentioned, but in fact I think they create designs that are an inspiration to me and more importantly they produce jewellery at an extremely high standard which lifts the standard of the jewellery that people desire.

The two different types of manufacture in place have different advantages/dissavantages. I think at the higher end, hand wrought jewellery is better, but designers offer what you want when you want it.

Perhaps you would want to have LM sound off on these designers being on a lesser par then he.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Tac,

I am not sure I understand you. I don''t know where the saphires are placed or what they rub against.

I''d probably suggest to let them crack if they are small as they are cheap to replace and broken stones are easier to remove at any rate. In replacing them, have them embedded (good term

). In order to avoid the setter not embedding them. (Setters usually charge $x per stone and don''t customise), choose smaller stones then the originals and then the only way they can be set is deeper.

I am only guessing though. I still don''t know how it is they will break.

 

[mepearl53]

Date: 8/26/2005 12:30:10 AM
Author: kaleigh
I have to chime in here and say that the kind of work that Paltinumsmith does and the work that Leon does is in a league of it''s own, very rarley do you see that Kind of workmanship from any of the main stream designers. I have experience with this as I have sold many pieces designed by the designers that have been mentioned. Yes they have great talent in designing wonderful pieces, but just lack that extra detail that you would get from a true craftsman. These designers have a vision and they are well executed in their designs, but IMHO lack the true quality of a masterpiece that only someone like Leon or Platinumsmith can achieve. Why??? They pay every attention to detail. Designers want to design their line and make it profitable for them and then call it a day. It''s wrong for me to generalize, but this is my honest feeling from what I have seen and dealt with in the industry. All in all there is room for everyone, and if you want a designer piece, that''s great. Also there is room for those that want a true work of art. Just my 0.2.

And just who are you referring to???????? And who have you dealt with of this list?????? What is a TRUE work of art?????? And what league are you referring to?????? You have no idea as to these designer''s intentions and for you to make a statement like that is un-excusable

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

A) I don''t catagorise him as a designer. B) His workmanship is proof enough for me.

We can make a photo study if you like.

Phillip

Can you beat this

...for starters. Then show us that they can customise designs in so many different styles.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

"Designers want to design their line and make it profitable for them and then call it a day" I agree with Kaleigh as that is exactly the way the trade works.

Bill you are correct in being be proud of your designers, but the ''art'' component finished when the master was produced. After that we have product.

I am not in Leons league but I want to be. Stress and greedy operators are my limitations. Working to a costs eliminates the possibility of an art work.

There is no answer for this. You must represent yourself, so that you have the opportunity to do your best work.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

Ever seen a casting look like this?

 

[jadeleaves]

Indeed - as someone who has searched long and hard to find someone who can work to Leon Mege''s standards, I have decided that instead of continuing a fruitless search over here, I''m going to get the master himself to make my next ring

Another highly skilled craftsman who''s made some astounding pieces is Mark Morrell.

Katz, the ring you posted from LM is very pretty. Have u been in touch with Leon to get a quote? You might find that the prices he charges is very reasonable considering the masterpieces he turns out.

 

[PhillipSchmidt]

poor Leon

 

[katz]

Hi JadeLeaves

I don''t plan on contacting Leon Mege for a quote. I''m sure his prices are reasonable, and even if they weren''t, I have a nice budget to work with. The reason I posted that picture on here to ask about similar settings is that I would prefer to work with somebody else. I DO think that Leon Mege''s work is gorgeous and that he is a master craftsman.
However, after reading the following statement regarding white gold on his website I decided to find somebody else:

"No question it is being useful in a making certain parts of jewelry pieces particularly locks, earring clips, brooch''s, etc. but overall I consider white gold low-class substitute without any future in fine jewelry. It looks yellowish next to platinum and it''s too soft, too light and too cheap to have an appeal of the only noble and precious white metal: platinum."

This quote was copied directly from the site and the grammar and syntax errors are not my own.

I believe that everybody is entitled to their opinion, I just happen to believe this opinion is pretentious. I like platinum and white gold. I own platinum jewelry and I own white gold jewelry. White gold has a warmer look to it than platinum, but I hardly think that makes it inferior. I have olive skin and white gold tends to look prettier (to me) with my skin tone.
I am planning to have a custom ring made with platinum instead of gold because it is a harder material. While I think white gold and yellow gold look nicer with my skin tone, since I want a 3-sided pave ring I think I will notice the diamonds more than the metal anyway.
In my opinion, there is definitely room for white gold in the future of jewelry. There is room for white gold, yellow gold, rose gold, platinum - even metals like titanium. I believe that the future of jewelry will be exciting and open to a wide array of possibilities, not limited to platinum.
When I slip on my emerald and diamond 3-stone ring in white gold and yellow gold, I don''t look down at my hand and think "wow, what a low-class substitute for platinum." Likewise, when wearing my platinum-set sapphire solitaire ring I don''t think "gee, I''m sure glad I''m not wearing my ugly low-class substitute rings."
I understand that platinum is harder and more rare than gold, and I think platinum is beautiful, but I hardly think that makes white gold a "low-class substitute". Is tsavorite garnet a "low-class substitute" for emerald? Is red spinel a "low-class substitute" for ruby?
Perhaps he just didn''t realize how arrogant and condescending his statement sounded.
I will be having a 3-sided pave platinum setting custom made, but not by him.
Kat

 

[mepearl53]

Date: 8/26/2005 1:12:42 AM
Author: Platinumsmith
''Designers want to design their line and make it profitable for them and then call it a day'' I agree with Kaleigh as that is exactly the way the trade works.

Bill you are correct in being be proud of your designers, but the ''art'' component finished when the master was produced. After that we have product.

I am not in Leons league but I want to be. Stress and greedy operators are my limitations. Working to a costs eliminates the possibility of an art work.

There is no answer for this. You must represent yourself, so that you have the opportunity to do your best work.

Phillip, you are so wrong here. I have know many of these designers since you have been in diapers. You do not know the struggles they have had achieving the recognition for their work. Yes, it would be nice if we designed purely for the sake of creating "art" but there are those who push the buttons on what''s considered "art" to demand better. And demand drives product. We are not talking about a single painting here. If a customer loves a particulier designers work and would also love to own a piece that already has been made I think it fine to make another. I believe I understand where your coming from here but the designers also have to eat. And I again rest with the argument that a jury of your peers judges the greatness of your work and the small group that I have presented walk away with the design awards.

 

[strmrdr]

Date: 8/26/2005 11:19:55 AM
Author: mepearl53

Date: 8/26/2005 1:12:42 AM

Author: Platinumsmith

''Designers want to design their line and make it profitable for them and then call it a day'' I agree with Kaleigh as that is exactly the way the trade works.


Bill you are correct in being be proud of your designers, but the ''art'' component finished when the master was produced. After that we have product.


I am not in Leons league but I want to be. Stress and greedy operators are my limitations. Working to a costs eliminates the possibility of an art work.


There is no answer for this. You must represent yourself, so that you have the opportunity to do your best work.

Phillip, you are so wrong here. I have know many of these designers since you have been in diapers. You do not know the struggles they have had achieving the recognition for their work. Yes, it would be nice if we designed purely for the sake of creating ''art'' but there are those who push the buttons on what''s considered ''art'' to demand better. And demand drives product. We are not talking about a single painting here. If a customer loves a particulier designers work and would also love to own a piece that already has been made I think it fine to make another. I believe I understand where your coming from here but the designers also have to eat. And I again rest with the argument that a jury of your peers judges the greatness of your work and the small group that I have presented walk away with the design awards.

yea right.
Just like the emmy''s right?
hmmm how can i say this without getting banned,,,
like a mutual massage party.
The best and the greatest getting over shadowed by the popular and the kisser uppers when they get together to stroke each others egos and hand out awards.