Opinions and advice please: closed back bezels?

[MakingTheGrade]

Most of you probably remember the blue tourmaline I bought from Michael. And while it's beautiful, it's driving me bonkers when it comes to figuring out how to set it! Every time I think I know what I want, I go to sleep, and wake up changing my mind! Sigh...

Anyways, I think I like this two tone setting (sterling silver and 14k gold), but because of how it's designed the bezel is closed in the back, which means I can't get to it for cleaning. I bought a bezel ring once from Onegarnetgirl but the bezel wasn't done well, so water and condensation got back there, drove me so bonkers that I had it reset (hence how I found Julia). However, the new jeweler I'm considering seems more experienced and does nicer bezels.

I was wondering if any of you have bezel rings that are closed in the back? Does stuff manage to get trapped back there? Do you like it?

Here are some pics of the setting I'm considering.

Let me know what you think. Should I keep looking?

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Here is the profile

 

[MakingTheGrade]

And here''s the tourmaline (again, sorry!).

 

[packrat]

I don''t have any experience w/that type of ring but it''s awfully pretty!

 

[Novel]

Date: 10/22/2009 3:24:06 PM
Author: packrat
I don''t have any experience w/that type of ring but it''s awfully pretty!

Ditto!

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Thanks guys! All the input helps, I really need to make a decision before it drives me nuts! I swear I don''t usually have such a hard time making up my mind...

 

[jstarfireb]

I have a ring that''s quite similar to that, but the bezel is open. I''d imagine that dirt will get into ANY bezel, no matter how well done, and cause trouble for you. I believe I have one or two closed bezels, but they''re only occasional wear rings (tanzanite), so I haven''t gotten them dirty...

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Thanks Jstar

 

[Michael_E]

The simple solution here is to have whoever makes the ring drill four equally spaced small holes into the closed bottom of the bezel before setting the stone. You don''t need to much of an opening to allow an ultrasonic cleaner to get in there and clean it. If you''re concerned about using steam on it just have whoever cleans it blow out the rinse water from inside of the bezel with some of that "canned air" used to clean keyboard crevices, ( hint: don''t turn the can upside down as the liquid inside comes out at very cold temperatures and the temperature shock can break stones...don''t ask how I know this)

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Michael, you never cease to be a fountain of information

I'll ask the jeweler what she thinks

 

[D&T]

Date: 10/22/2009 6:11:47 PM
Author: Michael_E
The simple solution here is to have whoever makes the ring drill four equally spaced small holes into the closed bottom of the bezel before setting the stone. You don''t need to much of an opening to allow an ultrasonic cleaner to get in there and clean it. If you''re concerned about using steam on it just have whoever cleans it blow out the rinse water from inside of the bezel with some of that ''canned air'' used to clean keyboard crevices, ( hint: don''t turn the can upside down as the liquid inside comes out at very cold temperatures and the temperature shock can break stones...don''t ask how I know this)

sweet Michael! thanks for the tip on the air spray...

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Haha, DT I''m still trying to visualize how his advice works...canned air?

 

[D&T]

Date: 10/22/2009 6:37:58 PM
Author: MakingTheGrade
Haha, DT I''m still trying to visualize how his advice works...canned air?

hmmm, will try now , just got my spinel from Sally....


BTW- I love that setting, I know I told you before, but yeah, I would want a way to clean too.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

This is the other option, 14k wg...ahhhhh...decisions!

 

[AustenNut]

I think either setting would work. Would the second setting fit a round stone, as it appears to be an oval in that picture, but that doesn''t necessarily mean much. I sort of get a feeling of water or the ocean from the second ring, which might lend itself well to a Caribbean effect with your tourmaline. But I also like that closed bezel setting you showed, and think it would work as well. So basically, I''m no help!

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Date: 10/22/2009 9:15:54 PM
Author: AustenNut
I think either setting would work. Would the second setting fit a round stone, as it appears to be an oval in that picture, but that doesn''t necessarily mean much. I sort of get a feeling of water or the ocean from the second ring, which might lend itself well to a Caribbean effect with your tourmaline. But I also like that closed bezel setting you showed, and think it would work as well. So basically, I''m no help!

Haha, it''s ok. Yes, that''s an oval, but it can be made with a round.

Ack, somebody needs to tell me what to do because I''m spinning my wheels! I''m tempted to save the second setting for an oval though because I think I like the proportions better...hmm...

 

[packrat]

If you did the 1st setting, would you do the two tone like in the picture?

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Date: 10/22/2009 9:53:37 PM
Author: packrat
If you did the 1st setting, would you do the two tone like in the picture?

I would. I want the white metal closest to the stone to bring out the blue more. But I think the 14k gold accent is a nice touch and balances out the ring.

Hmm..maybe I should just do a poll.

 

[Lovinggems]

I like the second setting more, it''s sleeker and modern. However, that gorgeous stone of yours will look great in any setting.

 

[chrono]

I prefer the 2nd setting with the blue stone for several reasons:
1. Open for cleaning
2. Good for darker coloured stones to let the light in (but I don’t know what stone you plan to put in, so it may not matter)
3. I’m naturally biased towards open bezels, especially settings with a clean line.

 

[LaurenThePartier]

I have a cheaper fun closed bezel setting, and it drives me mad.

That second setting is perfect!!!! I absolutely love it!

 

[ma re]

I like the 1st one better, but I''m partial to anything bezeled. I don''t think a full (closed) bezel should worry you, cause, as R. Wise once said on this very forum "if a stone is well cut, you can set it in concrete and it won''t go any darker", but it''s definately easier to clean bezels with open backs. However, you got some good advice about this issue, so the only question is do you really like that setting, since you say that you change your mind a lot. And from a perspective of someone who''s been there (changing my mind often until I figured some things out) I can suggest you to find some saved photos that you probably have on your PC, and try to figure out what do they all have in common. There must be something (color, texture, setting technique, shapes, proportions, style, inspiration, symbolism...) you like in almost any design, so it just takes some focus and patience, I''m sure you''ll figure it out.

 

[LD]

2nd setting.

With the full bezel you have potential cleaning issues. None with the open bezel.

With the full bezel you also limit the light to the gemstone. None with the semi bezel.

With the second setting you get 2 looks for the price of one because the profile you'll always be looking at the profile too!

All white gold will REALLY compliment that beauty. I have a zircon in exactly the same colour and oh boy, the white gold just brought it alive.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Date: 10/23/2009 11:01:02 AM
Author: ma re
I like the 1st one better, but I'm partial to anything bezeled. I don't think a full (closed) bezel should worry you, cause, as R. Wise once said on this very forum 'if a stone is well cut, you can set it in concrete and it won't go any darker', but it's definately easier to clean bezels with open backs. However, you got some good advice about this issue, so the only question is do you really like that setting, since you say that you change your mind a lot. And from a perspective of someone who's been there (changing my mind often until I figured some things out) I can suggest you to find some saved photos that you probably have on your PC, and try to figure out what do they all have in common. There must be something (color, texture, setting technique, shapes, proportions, style, inspiration, symbolism...) you like in almost any design, so it just takes some focus and patience, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

I think one the reasons I'm having such trouble with this one is that this tourmaline doesn't really resemble the other stones I usually like. I don't generally like very loud/neon colors, I generally gravitate either towards soft pastel shades or darker, more lush shades, so the color here is kind of throwing me in a loop.

Haha, I know this might sound funny, but I think I actually like the second setting more than I like the stone itself, so I'm wondering if I should "save" that setting for the right oval to come along, since I'm not entirely sure how often I'll end up wearing this tourmaline since it isn't my usual color of choice. On the other hand, it's a very special and beautiful stone in its own right (regardless of how well it matches my personal wardrobe) and so I feel it should be suitable showcased...

ARG. Going crazy!

 

[Arcadian]

I have 2 closed back bezels and it drives me bonkers that I can''t clean behind them They reside in the seldom worn side of my jewelry box.

IMHE, a bezel can make a decent to well cut stone will deepen. Not saying it would go black however. That said, its my piddly but honest belief that the stone has to have an exceptional cut for it to not happen. Y''all can take that for what it is.

But do yourself a favor, get an open backed bezel to save your sanity.

Julia does bezels very well. I know she''s super booked up right now but if you don''t have a specific time table, it may work out for both of you.

But if you''re this undecided you may do well to hold on to it until something strikes you in a definitive way. I had a few stones I sat on for a few years and then decided in a spark of madness I knew exactly what I wanted to do.... it happens that way you know?

-A

 

[T L]

It would drive me crazy if I couldn't get in there to clean it. Closed bezels eventually get moisture and gunk trapped back there, it can even damage your stone. I don't think your stone needs it either. An open or half bezel should be a great option.

 

[MakingTheGrade]

Date: 10/23/2009 1:10:34 PM
Author: Arcadian
I have 2 closed back bezels and it drives me bonkers that I can''t clean behind them They reside in the seldom worn side of my jewelry box.
But do yourself a favor, get an open backed bezel to save your sanity.

But if you''re this undecided you may do well to hold on to it until something strikes you in a definitive way. I had a few stones I sat on for a few years and then decided in a spark of madness I knew exactly what I wanted to do.... it happens that way you know?

-A

Yeah, I''m probably just being impatient. I''m just used to setting my nicer stones relatively quickly, but I think this one will require some more musing or a bolt of inspiration, haha.

And thanks all you guys for the input, now I know that I am probably not the type that can buy a closed back bezel since my OCD-self would probably eventually buy a blowtorch and open that sucker up to clean it. Haha.

 

[Stone Hunter]

I would not be comfortable with a closed back bezel setting. But that first setting with an open back would be very nice.

I would buy an oval specifically for that second setting. All of the proportions would look different if that setting had a round stone and then you might not like the setting as much!

HTH