Niessing and Kretchmer settings in Calgary, Alberta

[canong7]

Hey everyone,

I’ve been lurking on Pricescope for years and have to say that this is an amazing resource! I’ve read all the FAQs and have combed over the forums for answers to my questions but I haven’t yet found the answer.

I am intending on proposing to by fiancé to be in soon and have my heart set on a tension setting. It is a surprise engagement but to ensure that she will enjoy this style of setting, I’ve shown her the Gelin Abaci, Kretchmer, and Niessing websites and she has thus far been enthusiastic about them. I am not considering titanium settings.

Looking for tension settings in Calgary, Alberta, is a bit of a pain however. I am currently dealing with Swedish Jewelers in Edmonton who deal Kretchmer styles and Hunter-Davidson Jewelers in Calgary who deal Niessing styles.

Details on the ring I am looking for:
Price: $6000-7000CAN for setting + diamond.
Setting: Kretchmer Omega, Niessing Everest
Cut: AGS-0 or GIA VG-excellent
Colour: G or above
Clarity: VS2 or above
Carat: .50-.75

Quotes I have received from Hunter-Davidson in my price range:
$6040 – GIA VG, 0.65, G, VS2, 18K gold, Niessing Everest
$6240 – GIA VG, 0.50, E, VS2, 18K gold, Niessing Everest
$6540 - GIA VG, 0.6, E, VS2, 18K gold, Niessing Everest

Quotes I have received from Swedish Jewelers in my price range:
$6450 – AGS0, 0.57, G, VS2, Platinum, Kretchmer Omega
$6600 – GIA VG, 0.65, G, VS2, Platinum, Kretchmer Omega
$6800 – AGS0, 0.64, G, VS2, Platinum, Kretchmer Omega

My questions:
1) Has anyone ever worked with Hunter-Davidson of Calgary or Swedish Jewelers of Edmonton?
2) Are there any other tension setting dealers in my area that I should be aware of?
3) Though the settings are very similar in appearance, why is the platinum Kretchmer only marginally more expensive than the Niessing in 18K gold? To get platinum in the Niessing, I would have to pay approx $2000CAN more! Purely on this factor, I am leaning towards the Kretchmer rings.
4) Which of the above 6 that I’ve listed appears to be the best compromise? Unfortunately, I don’t have much more information on cut other than the GIA or AGS grading. I can certainly get more once I decide on which jeweler I decide to go with.

Thanks so much!

Russ

 

[angeline]

Hey Russ, love your choices! The niessing rings are verrry expensive. The stone has to go to Germany to be set and the ring is made there, I don't know if the pricing is affected by this? I guess it might be. I have heard that gold etc are more expensive in Europe.

I'm in the US so I don't know any dealers in Canada, but Hamilton Hill (hamiltonhilljewelry.com) were very helpful, and very competitive in pricing for NIessing rings. Pearlmans (pearlmansjewelers.com) were my best find for Kretchmer. I suppose though that the hassle of buying from the US would outweigh any price gains, plus customs etc.

For example a quote I received from Monica Stubbs of Hamilton Hill in January this year for the Niessing Everest in 18ky for a 0.5ct diamond was USD$2100 (not including diamond). Actually when I look at that price compared to your CDN$$6240 it might be worth your while checking it out! I can't see the 0.5ct E VS2 costing the difference there.

If you talk to Pearlmans' make sure you mention you are from Pricescope because they give you a discount from the standard pricing of sometimes 15%.

Good luck and let us know what you do! I love tension rings!

a

 

[elle_chris]

OH MY GOD, you chose two of my favorite designers. One more who makes gorgeous tension settings is Bunz, also German.
I think Angeline is right when she says the Niessing is more because it's going to be sent to Germany. I found when I was looking for bands, every German designer i looked at was more. Either way, you can't go wrong. But seriously, check out Bunz as well. The pricing is similiar to Niessing though.

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

I live in Calgary and grew up in Edmonton and know both jewellers you are referring to; but have never bought a diamond or tension setting from either. I am no help!!!

J Vair Anderson, Calgary, is another jeweller who offers tension settings, but not the manufactures' you are referring to (I believe they have Bunz and Henrich/Denzel). And my memory scatters when I try and recall whether Calgary Jewellers carries these mounts, but I am *thinking*, no. You could call.

May I inquire what you have seen...live? What has she tried on that she likes best? (white, yellow, high, low, wide, thin, single, multiple stones.....).

cheers--Sharon

 

[canong7]

Thanks for the replies!

1) Angeline and Elle, talking to Hunter-Davidson about how my ring would be made, it didn''t sound like the entire process occurred in Germany. Essentially, Niessing makes my desired shank to match my diamond. They send it to Los Angeles. HD sends my diamond down to Los Angeles to be set. The ring then returns complete to Calgary for pick-up. I suppose all that shipping might make up the price difference...

2) Angeline, I''d personally prefer to stick with a shop that I can at least visit in person. I am a big fan of online buying but there is just something hits my nerves funny when I think about buying something my future-wife will wear forever never having seen it before I gave it to her. Anyway, I will check out Hamilton Hill and Pearlmans as you recommend.

3) Elle, I checked out Bunz'' settings and found them to be ultra-modern. I think as a guy, I would wear them! However, my lady is more on the simple side and might find a Bunz ring a tad on the eccentric side. Thanks for the recommendation.

4) Sharon, I''ll stop by J Vair Anderson and have a look as you recommend.

5) I have seen the Niessing Everest and Open-end designs live at Hunter-Davidson. They have some samples (I think with CZ in them) in their storefront window. In the locked glass cases, I''ve seen the Open-end in 18K White Gold and it was beautiful. I am trying to make this engagement a surprise so I haven''t exactly shown here the rings live but I''ve trailed her on tension settings for the last 2 years or so and feel that she would enjoy it. She is definitley into the solitaire style, in white gold/platinum and into simpler style bands. If I hadn''t seen tension settings, I probably would''ve got her a Birks NESW setting (or similar without the brand-name).

One issue that arose is the finish/colour of gold that I should go for. I''ve heard that nickel-plated 18K white gold will wear down and turn yellow with time, eventually requiring replating. The palladium-plated 18K white gold Niessing uses is less likely to do so. However, they offer some beautiful other gold colours as well, including red, and sand. When I showed these colours to my GF, she said they looked beautiful but wasn''t sure if they would match her skin tone (Asian) and her other ring (titanium). So... to be safe, I think I am leaning towards the white side.

Regarding finish, it seems that polished is the trend for erings but I was sort of leaning towards brushed/satin. Any thoughts?

Thanks again for your replies!

Russ

 

[angeline]

Date: 9/19/2007 8:17:49 PM
Author: canong7
Thanks for the replies!


1) Angeline and Elle, talking to Hunter-Davidson about how my ring would be made, it didn''t sound like the entire process occurred in Germany. Essentially, Niessing makes my desired shank to match my diamond. They send it to Los Angeles. HD sends my diamond down to Los Angeles to be set. The ring then returns complete to Calgary for pick-up. I suppose all that shipping might make up the price difference...


2) Angeline, I''d personally prefer to stick with a shop that I can at least visit in person. I am a big fan of online buying but there is just something hits my nerves funny when I think about buying something my future-wife will wear forever never having seen it before I gave it to her. Anyway, I will check out Hamilton Hill and Pearlmans as you recommend.


3) Elle, I checked out Bunz'' settings and found them to be ultra-modern. I think as a guy, I would wear them! However, my lady is more on the simple side and might find a Bunz ring a tad on the eccentric side. Thanks for the recommendation.


4) Sharon, I''ll stop by J Vair Anderson and have a look as you recommend.


5) I have seen the Niessing Everest and Open-end designs live at Hunter-Davidson. They have some samples (I think with CZ in them) in their storefront window. In the locked glass cases, I''ve seen the Open-end in 18K White Gold and it was beautiful. I am trying to make this engagement a surprise so I haven''t exactly shown here the rings live but I''ve trailed her on tension settings for the last 2 years or so and feel that she would enjoy it. She is definitley into the solitaire style, in white gold/platinum and into simpler style bands. If I hadn''t seen tension settings, I probably would''ve got her a Birks NESW setting (or similar without the brand-name).


One issue that arose is the finish/colour of gold that I should go for. I''ve heard that nickel-plated 18K white gold will wear down and turn yellow with time, eventually requiring replating. The palladium-plated 18K white gold Niessing uses is less likely to do so. However, they offer some beautiful other gold colours as well, including red, and sand. When I showed these colours to my GF, she said they looked beautiful but wasn''t sure if they would match her skin tone (Asian) and her other ring (titanium). So... to be safe, I think I am leaning towards the white side.


Regarding finish, it seems that polished is the trend for erings but I was sort of leaning towards brushed/satin. Any thoughts?


Thanks again for your replies!


Russ

Russ,

Re:

1. When I spoke with Hamilton Hill they said the diamond goes to Germany. Maybe this is different with the shop you are talking to. The ring is still made in Germany though even if the stone is set in LA. Hence the price diff for metals in Europe still applies.

2. You will have seen the ring in person. It will be exactly like the one you see in the jewelers shop, just ordered somewhere different. The ring you see at your jewelers will not be the ring you give your wife-to-be obviously. I am not however advocating that you do this online, there are definite benefits to shopping at a B&M.

Re the finish, I looooove the fleece matte finish. I''ll try to find some refs to the different finishes.

I think it will be an amazing ring. When I tried on the Everest setting to me it looked like a little bow was holding the diamond in. You know like the bow on a present. Unexpected and quite gorgeous. I was a big fan of the High End setting. Nearly got it, but 1.5 years later and several stone changes later, still can''t make up my mind!

I''ll be back with the finish refs.

a

 

[canong7]

Update:

Just checked out J Vair Anderson. What a beautiful store! And a great collection of items too. The Bunz classic tension they carried was quite beautiful. However, they indicated that they couldn''t give me a quote for the shank by itself or the diamond by itself. Furthermore, they indicated that I must purchase my diamond through Bunz as it is a German company and our customs will not allow me to buy my diamond here for assembly in Germany. Somehow, I doubt that this is true. Anyway, I asked for a few quotations for what kinds of diamonds I could get in the Bunz classic in yellow gold for under $7000CAN.

Interestingly, they carried their own line of tension settings made in Canada. They couldn''t give me more information on who exactly was the maker of these tension settings except they made items exclusively for J Vair Anderson and were based in Toronto. The platinum tension setting went for $3600CAN and the yellow gold went for $1700CAN. Swedish Jewelers in Edmonton indicated that the Kretchmer Omega went for $3300CAN for setting alone in platinum. Based on these prices, I might as well get the Kretchmer!

More questions:
1) I was told that both Bunz and Henrich/Denzel do not use white gold because the alloying process (with palladium or rhodium) weakens the metal and prevents it from being a making a good tension setting. Is there any truth in this?

Thanks so much everyone!

Russ

 

[elle_chris]

hey,
I''m not sure about Bunz'' policy regarding purchasing the diamond and think you should probably send an email to Bunz directly and find out.
Regarding the metal, my wedding band is Henrich & Denzel and the choice I was given was either platinum or 18k yellow gold. I got the same info. when looking at Bunz pieces so I''m pretty sure that info is correct.
Dying to see what you''re gonna end up choosing

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

Glad you liked the place--it it a lovely, to be sure!!! I''ve bought one or three pieces from there...........................

Manufactures/jewellers have their policies in place for a reason--and as Elle CHris suggested, you could email Buntz and find out "why". The information gleened will be one more piece of the puzzle in helping you decide who you want to deal with. And regarding the info about diamonds/Customs--well IMHO that seems way "out there", but it appears you already figured that out.

I look forward to seeing the result of your "homework".

cheers--Sharon

 

[angeline]

Date: 9/21/2007 6:04:45 PM
Author: canong7
Update:


Just checked out J Vair Anderson. What a beautiful store! And a great collection of items too. The Bunz classic tension they carried was quite beautiful. However, they indicated that they couldn''t give me a quote for the shank by itself or the diamond by itself. Furthermore, they indicated that I must purchase my diamond through Bunz as it is a German company and our customs will not allow me to buy my diamond here for assembly in Germany. Somehow, I doubt that this is true. Anyway, I asked for a few quotations for what kinds of diamonds I could get in the Bunz classic in yellow gold for under $7000CAN.


Interestingly, they carried their own line of tension settings made in Canada. They couldn''t give me more information on who exactly was the maker of these tension settings except they made items exclusively for J Vair Anderson and were based in Toronto. The platinum tension setting went for $3600CAN and the yellow gold went for $1700CAN. Swedish Jewelers in Edmonton indicated that the Kretchmer Omega went for $3300CAN for setting alone in platinum. Based on these prices, I might as well get the Kretchmer!


More questions:

1) I was told that both Bunz and Henrich/Denzel do not use white gold because the alloying process (with palladium or rhodium) weakens the metal and prevents it from being a making a good tension setting. Is there any truth in this?


Thanks so much everyone!


Russ

RE the white gold Q. Niessing make a grey gold, not sure what the alloy is. (By the way could NOT find the reference which showed all the finishes - sorry!).

Kretchmer doesn''t appear to use white gold, only yellow. But Gelin Abaci make a lot of white gold settings. Not sure what conclusion to draw from all this.

 

[canong7]

Update:

I''ve decided to go with Hunter-Davidson from Calgary, AB. They have been very kind and informative on the Niessing settings. I''m going with the Open-End design after bringing my girlfriend''s best friend to have a look. We are probably going with brushed finish in Grey 18K gold.

With respect to the diamond, what do you guys think of this:

Round Brilliant
Measurements: 5.79 - 5.82 x 3.56 mm
Carat Weight: 0.72
Color Grade: F
Clarity Grade: VS1
Cut Grade: Excellent

Proportions:
Depth: 61.3 %
Table: 55 %
Crown Angle: 35°
Crown Height: 15.5 %
Pavilion Angle: 40.8°
Pavilion Depth: 43 %
Star length: 50 %
Lower Half: 75 %
Girdle: Thin to Medium, Faceted
Culet: None
Finish:
Polish: Excellent
Symmetry: Excellent
Fluorescence: None

Clarity Characteristics: Feather

HCA score: 1.5

Price: $5286CAN.

I am about ready to give it the go ahead. Your thoughts?

Russ

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

This price, is all totalled, no? (setting, diamond....)

As far as finding an exact match for the diamond so as to price apples to apples, the closest I could find was on the GOG site; and the stone was a .70 ctw. for app. $3700-3800 USD depending on wire transfer....I really don''t know how much the setting is.....

You seem to like what you ''ve seen, so go for it!!!

cheers--Sharon

 

[canong7]

Unfortunately Sharon, this price is not including the setting.

Diamond: $5286CAN
Setting: $2880CAN
Grand total: $8166CAN

It is a bit steep for the diamond, I agree, especially compared to GOG, WF, etc. Part of me is tempted just to go for it because of ease. I don''t really fancy the idea of buying online, bringing it to Hunter-Davidson, signing off on the diamond so that if it gets damages, they aren''t liable, having them ship it to California to be set, and shipping it back to Calgary.

 

[canuk-gal]

Date: 10/24/2007 7:41:49 PM
Author: canong7
Unfortunately Sharon, this price is not including the setting.

Diamond: $5286CAN
Setting: $2880CAN
Grand total: $8166CAN

It is a bit steep for the diamond, I agree, especially compared to GOG, WF, etc. Part of me is tempted just to go for it because of ease. I don''t really fancy the idea of buying online, bringing it to Hunter-Davidson, signing off on the diamond so that if it gets damages, they aren''t liable, having them ship it to California to be set, and shipping it back to Calgary.

HI:

Fact is, they are not the only place on Calgary that sells GIA certed, well cut diamonds; but might be the only place, locally, that sells the setting you want. So there you go. You seem OK with the options, so go for it!

I am sure it will be beautiful!!

cheers--Sharon