shape
carat
color
clarity

Moi toi diamond ring era

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
Hi Everyone! I bought a vintage Moi Toi diamond ring that I'm trying to identify the era that it was created. The diamonds are old mine cuts but I'm unsure of the setting. It's set in platinum. Thanks for your help! 20220623_181454.jpg 20220623_181555.jpg 20220623_175508~2.jpg
 

kgizo

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
2,607
So pretty! The diamonds look older than the setting, to me. It looks like some nicks to the metal in the circled areas so perhaps the original diamonds were removed at some point? And, some of the prongs are pointed, others rounded and a few look smooshed so that also makes me think the diamonds aren’t original to the setting.
D85019E8-876D-4EF0-9191-70345F1D9904.jpeg
 

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
So pretty! The diamonds look older than the setting, to me. It looks like some nicks to the metal in the circled areas so perhaps the original diamonds were removed at some point? And, some of the prongs are pointed, others rounded and a few look smooshed so that also makes me think the diamonds aren’t original to the setting.
D85019E8-876D-4EF0-9191-70345F1D9904.jpeg
 

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
Thank you, very observant! The diamonds look pretty through my loupe except a nick on one of the girdles. Any idea on age of the setting? I tried to find a comp but it's not easy. The diamonds are almost a carat each.
 

marymm

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 21, 2010
Messages
5,531
Your beautiful ring reminded of a two-stone ring I had seen at Lang ... it has already sold so it's in their Archive section but unfortunately the listing does not include any information as to era ... to my eyes this kind of bypass design looks mid-century but that's just a best guess.

https://www.langantiques.com/vintage-twin-diamond-bypass-ring-gia.html
1656041295227.png
 

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
Your beautiful ring reminded of a two-stone ring I had seen at Lang ... it has already sold so it's in their Archive section but unfortunately the listing does not include any information as to era ... to my eyes this kind of bypass design looks mid-century but that's just a best guess.

https://www.langantiques.com/vintage-twin-diamond-bypass-ring-gia.html
1656041295227.png

I appreciate your opinion! Thanks so much for weighing in! Does anyone recognize the platinum marking? I can't find it.
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
5,078
So pretty! The diamonds look older than the setting, to me. It looks like some nicks to the metal in the circled areas so perhaps the original diamonds were removed at some point? And, some of the prongs are pointed, others rounded and a few look smooshed so that also makes me think the diamonds aren’t original to the setting.
D85019E8-876D-4EF0-9191-70345F1D9904.jpeg

Totally agree. The diamonds look much older than the setting and are Old Mine Cuts from the 18th-19th century, but the setting appears to be classic mid-century modern! (~1950s, after WWII and art deco)...could be from anytime b/w 1940 to 1970

The diamonds were swapped in, no doubt, you can see they don't quite fit the cups (but that's ok, i think it adds to the fun history of the piece, and the OMCs are gorgeous!)

Geometric, show-stopping designs were all the rage for MCM! Think...Mad Men ;-)Baguette diamonds, what you see on the shoulders, were really popularized during the art deco movement, but became a part of a lot of mid-century designs. MCM is basically borrowing from a lot of the geometry and grandeur of art deco, but is much more streamlined and simplistic with lots of clean lines and curves, very architectural

The platinum marking is just describing the alloy used, which was 90% platinum, 10% iridium. this is a very common alloy that is used even today


Here are other MCM designs that are reminiscent

1656082562193.png

1656082579348.png

1656082596420.png

1656082618336.png

1656082659334.png
 
Last edited:

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
Totally agree. The diamonds look much older than the setting and are Old Mine Cuts from the 18th-19th century, but the setting appears to be classic mid-century modern! (~1950s, after WWII and art deco)...could be from anytime b/w 1940 to 1970

The diamonds were swapped in, no doubt, you can see they don't quite fit the cups (but that's ok, i think it adds to the fun history of the piece, and the OMCs are gorgeous!)

Geometric, show-stopping designs were all the rage for MCM! Think...Mad Men ;-)Baguette diamonds, what you see on the shoulders, were really popularized during the art deco movement, but became a part of a lot of mid-century designs. MCM is basically borrowing from a lot of the geometry and grandeur of art deco, but is much more streamlined and simplistic with lots of clean lines and curves, very architectural

The platinum marking is just describing the alloy used, which was 90% platinum, 10% iridium. this is a very common alloy that is used even today


Here are other MCM designs that are reminiscent

1656082562193.png

1656082579348.png

1656082596420.png

1656082618336.png

1656082659334.png

Thank you for your research! My dealer friend and I were trying to figure out the era. I'm knowledgeable about older jewelry eras/diamond cuts but have trouble with anything past the 1930's. This piece has definitely evolved! I know this is a controversial question but should I remove the OMC's and find an older setting? All opinions are greatly appreciated and valued!
 

Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
5,509
I know this is a controversial question but should I remove the OMC's and find an older setting? All opinions are greatly appreciated and valued!

I would yes.
And then find a pair of colored gems to put right back in
:)
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
5,078
I think rich blue sapphires, emeralds or blue zircons, or some kind of colored gem would look amazing!
 

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
Totally agree. The diamonds look much older than the setting and are Old Mine Cuts from the 18th-19th century, but the setting appears to be classic mid-century modern! (~1950s, after WWII and art deco)...could be from anytime b/w 1940 to 1970

The diamonds were swapped in, no doubt, you can see they don't quite fit the cups (but that's ok, i think it adds to the fun history of the piece, and the OMCs are gorgeous!)

Geometric, show-stopping designs were all the rage for MCM! Think...Mad Men ;-)Baguette diamonds, what you see on the shoulders, were really popularized during the art deco movement, but became a part of a lot of mid-century designs. MCM is basically borrowing from a lot of the geometry and grandeur of art deco, but is much more streamlined and simplistic with lots of clean lines and curves, very architectural

The platinum marking is just describing the alloy used, which was 90% platinum, 10% iridium. this is a very common alloy that is used even today


Here are other MCM designs that are reminiscent

1656082562193.png

1656082579348.png

1656082596420.png

1656082618336.png

1656082659334.png
 

sgb

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 6, 2020
Messages
14
Does anyone know of a good retailer of edwardian to deco ring settings?
 

Arkteia

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Messages
7,589
OMG it is so beautiful! I have little experience with white diamonds, so can't comment on the time or maker, but I like such stones, plump and round.
 

lulu_ma

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
4,125

kgizo

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
2,607
There’s also a vendor list sticky at the top of this forum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sgb

blingmeupscotty

Brilliant_Rock
Trade
Joined
Dec 12, 2016
Messages
960
I was about to say "new dress who dis" lol but you've all got it sorted.
 

PastryGirl

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Oct 29, 2012
Messages
413
This looks a lot like my grandmother's ring. One stone is an old cut (it was her grandmother's) and the other she got in the early 1950s. I think she set them into the ring in the early 1960s-1970s.
 
Be a part of the community Get 3 HCA Results
Top