Let’s share tips amongst ourselves: how do you try to tell between an antique piece of jewelry vs an antique-style (modern) piece of jewelry?

[Pinkmartini87]

Let’s share tips! Note: this is not to diminish antique-style pieces of jewelry, many are well made (below often lists qualities seen more in poorly made antique-style pieces), and I certainly can understand why some may choose to purposely purchase antique-style vs true antique.

Goal of this thread is to keep ourselves informed so we know can best discern what we are purchasing, which I personally feel I have a hard time with!

I’ll start:

Antique-style piece of jewelry when compared to antique jewelry (100 plus years):

-Lack of wear:
1) All intact details--no rub to milgrain/engravings, uneven solder/joints, sharp and fully intact hallmarks, pristine prongs
2) less worn stones--unless recently replaced or polished

-Poor workmanship if applicable
1) overall bulky/wrong/disproportionate feel
2) unfinished bumpy underside, porous texture
3) uneven/clumsy borders either between different metals if such is used, or different parts joined together
4) hasty/less defined details--diff from overall normal wear and tear
5) machine like uniformity suggesting little to no hand finishing

-Continuity errors aka using materials not appropriate for age (white gold in a supposedly Victorian piece instead of silver plated gold, etc), or a Frankenstein mix of setting with stone (OMC in older setting, etc).

 

[LilAlex]

Good points above ^

Just like for naturalists (birdwatchers and the like), the "environment" can be informative. Vendors who seem to have a bottomless supply of near-identical like-new "all-original Art Deco" pieces are sus, imo, no matter how genuine the pieces appear individually. A vendor who distinguishes "Art Deco style" from true Art Deco inspires confidence even when they sell both. As a non-expert, I rely on these and other "integrity footprints" almost as much as zooming in on any screenshots.

 

[missy]

I buy from trusted vendors but also do my due diligence. Antique for me all the way but occasionally I might go for antique style. But if I have a choice it's true antique for me.


How Can You Tell if a Diamond is Antique?

1. Look at the culet of the diamond.
2. Identifying the age of the mounting or setting.
3. Examining the girdle of the diamond.
4. Sending the diamond to a professional for an appraisal.

I adore my OEC stud settings (and the antique diamonds in them lol).





One day I will reset my OEC diamond Bubbalah (true antique diamond) into a true antique setting. For now she is in a non antique (but oldish) setting and I don't mind it. It doesn't match the age of Bubbalah but this is an example where it doesn't bother me

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@LilAlex Well said! A constantly replenishing supply of “rare” birds of the same feather in one single shop is a red flag for me as well. Will update list!

@missy always great to see your treasures. Bubbulah looks fabulous in any outfit!

—————————-

Antique-style piece of jewelry aka NOT true antique jewelry (100 plus years):

-Lack of wear:
1) All intact details--no rub to milgrain/engravings, uneven solder/joints, sharp and fully intact hallmarks, pristine prongs
2) less worn stones--unless recently replaced or polished

-Poor workmanship if applicable
1) overall bulky/wrong/disproportionate feel
2) unfinished bumpy underside, porous texture
3) uneven/clumsy borders either between different metals if such is used, or different parts joined together
4) hasty/less defined details--diff from overall normal wear and tear
5) machine like uniformity suggesting little to no hand finishing

-Continuity errors aka using materials not appropriate for age (white gold in a supposedly Victorian piece instead of silver plated gold, etc), or a Frankenstein mix of setting with stone (OMC in older setting, etc).

-Vendor red flags: bottomless supply of near-identical like-new "all-original antique" pieces

 

[LightBright]

Missy your diamonds and their settings always astound me. They are truly special antiques. I quite like Bubbalah’s current dress; classic, simple and feminine, it suits her beautifully!

 

[Catmom]

I buy from trusted vendors but also do my due diligence. Antique for me all the way but occasionally I might go for antique style. But if I have a choice it's true antique for me.


How Can You Tell if a Diamond is Antique?

1. Look at the culet of the diamond.
2. Identifying the age of the mounting or setting.
3. Examining the girdle of the diamond.
4. Sending the diamond to a professional for an appraisal.

I adore my OEC stud settings (and the antique diamonds in them lol).





One day I will reset my OEC diamond Bubbalah (true antique diamond) into a true antique setting. For now she is in a non antique (but oldish) setting and I don't mind it. It doesn't match the age of Bubbalah but this is an example where it doesn't bother me

Your pieces always amaze me every time I see them!

 

[Catmom]

I'm not really experienced like some of you, so I try and only buy from reputable sellers. I have on occasion bought from estate sections where the store didn't really know what they had but only when I could identify old stones and old settings. My horseshoe pin was such a case. They didn't realize they were actually OECs and OMCs. Plus, I was able to track down some provenance and discovered it was originally sold at auction in England in 2010 and was identified as a piece from 1890.

 

[Mreader]

I'm not really experienced like some of you, so I try and only buy from reputable sellers. I have on occasion bought from estate sections where the store didn't really know what they had but only when I could identify old stones and old settings. My horseshoe pin was such a case. They didn't realize they were actually OECs and OMCs. Plus, I was able to track down some provenance and discovered it was originally sold at auction in England in 2010 and was identified as a piece from 1890.

Omg I love that horseshoe and the different shapes of the stones!

 

[ItsMainelyYou]

Welp, that about covers it.
Be mindful that rarer truly high quality reproductions are almost indistinguishable from their antique counterparts. The provenance and identification markings are paramount in that case.

* I always get a kick over rings that have stones/cuts that weren't readily available for the time period of the mount being sold as 'true untouched antique'.

 

[athenaworth]

This isn’t a 100% tell tale sign, but this is a very commonly used gallery on repros.

 

[LilAlex]

This isn’t a 100% tell tale sign, but this is a very commonly used gallery on repros.

You mean this exact design -- like the one famous phony Cartier serial number?

 

[kgizo]

@Pinkmartini87 Do you have a LT listing way to contact you?

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@Pinkmartini87 Do you have a LT listing way to contact you?

Contact for Pinkmartini87 | Loupe Troop

loupetroop.com

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@Pinkmartini87 Do you have a LT listing way to contact you?

Got your hot tip! Thank you for thinking of me, so kind of you!

 

[Bron357]

1.
Coloured gemstones in antique jewellery is often lab grown. Around the 1900s it was “the thing” and meant perfect colour matching ie in Art Deco target rings.
2.
An antique setting doesn’t guarantee an antique gemstones. Gems can be changed in and out.
3.
Antique gems can be expected to have signs of wear. Chips to the girdle and facet wear. Always ask for high resolution photos, you don’t want any unexpected surprises.
4.
Hallmarks can be lost due to resizing or be worn away. Best to have tested to ensure carat content.
5.
Antique pieces often have prong wear / damage. This can be expensive to repair. Milligrain / bezel work takes a very skilled goldsmith to repair seamlessly.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@Bron357 thank you! List updates with your wisdom:
———-
Antique-style piece of jewelry aka NOT true antique jewelry (100 plus years):

-Lack of wear:
1) All intact details--no rub to milgrain/engravings, uneven solder/joints, sharp and fully intact hallmarks, pristine prongs
2) less worn stones (no facet/girdle stone wear: ask for high resolution pics!) that suggest replacement stone or repolished

-Poor workmanship if applicable
1) overall bulky/wrong/disproportionate feel
2) unfinished bumpy underside, porous texture
3) uneven/clumsy borders either between different metals if such is used, or different parts joined together
4) hasty/less defined details--diff from overall normal wear and tear
5) machine like uniformity suggesting little to no hand finishing
6) Poor color matching of stones (depending on date, colored gemstones in true antique jewellery may be lab grown. Around the 1900s it was “the thing” and meant perfect colour matching ie in Art Deco target rings.)

-Continuity errors aka using materials not appropriate for age (white gold in a supposedly Victorian piece instead of silver plated gold, etc), or a Frankenstein mix of setting with stone (OMC in older setting, etc).

-Vendor red flags: bottomless supply of near-identical like-new "all-original antique" pieces

 

[lovetodream]

I buy from trusted vendors but also do my due diligence. Antique for me all the way but occasionally I might go for antique style. But if I have a choice it's true antique for me.


How Can You Tell if a Diamond is Antique?

1. Look at the culet of the diamond.
2. Identifying the age of the mounting or setting.
3. Examining the girdle of the diamond.
4. Sending the diamond to a professional for an appraisal.

I adore my OEC stud settings (and the antique diamonds in them lol).





One day I will reset my OEC diamond Bubbalah (true antique diamond) into a true antique setting. For now she is in a non antique (but oldish) setting and I don't mind it. It doesn't match the age of Bubbalah but this is an example where it doesn't bother me

To be fair, Missy, I don't think ANY of us would mind any setting if we got to wear/see Bubbalah every day! It is just a one-of-a-kind