James Meyer - cheap, average or quality gems?

[reggie]

Hello everyone. I have a few questions regarding the quality of gems Jim has sourced for his rings.

I have been on the hunt for an ering for my girlfriend. When it comes to colored gems she basically seems to love them all. Coincidently she wants them all. I know this sounds weird but she would be just as happy to rotate between three cheaper gem rings as her ering as she would with one expensive sapphire ring. Maybe a nice lady can chime in on the reason for this? Maybe she wants different colors for different outfits? I have no idea. I just go with the flow and things seem to work out fine.

As a result she has made a list for me of all her favorite James Meyer rings. I hope none of you take my questions as I am trying to be lazy. I have tried hard to study about sapphires specifically and even then I know I will still need everyone''s help. But when it comes to oval/cabochon shaped gems I really have no idea what I should be looking for. It seems like a very daunting task to start learning about all of that along with a lot of different gem types.

If any of you are willing then this is where I would appreciate your opinions. Below I have a link to his website and I have listed the rings in questions. Beside that number I have included what my girlfriend exactly wrote to me as the reason why she liked them. In regards to the gem are they good, average or bad quality? If you were thinking about any of these rings would you try to source your own gem or would you go with the one that is provided in the setting?

James Meyer rings

1325-gorgeous. Love it.
1316-i love the detailing
1205-such lovely detail
1247-old world charmer. Reminds me of Paris for some reason ... (we went to Paris together last year)
1331-just beautiful but hate the color. Love love the ring (she wouldn''t want a pink or purple gem)

All of these settings and cut of gem are in the category where she would like to have a few of them as her ering. I still think that''s funny to say but it is what it is. I guess we could just get one and later on get something else as she isn''t opposed to that idea either. This ring would then turn into a rhr.

FYI - If we went for a faceted cut sapphire (probably a cushion or asscher) it would be blue and be in the setting of Eng-E or Eng-K found here. For these settings I think a very large diamond/sapphire is necessary so you can get a nice profile on the side.

Thank you for everyone''s time in reading this and I look forward to your opinions.

 

[Largosmom]

I think your idea of several rings in different colors is very contemporary and thoughtful! That said, I''d still pick something special for the first ring and then save up for something special on your anniversaries or special days. If you can''t afford a new ring each year, maybe a pair of matching earrings or a pendant to go with it would be nice. If she is into jewelry and the idea of custom work, you could get her a stone for one gift-worthy event and a budget to set it later.

I''m still a newbie myself so I''ll let others comment on quality!

Laura

 

[arjunajane]

hrmm..interesting questions.

To be honest, going off 2-3 photos of a gem already set in a ring on a website, I would not want to guess at the quality.


That said - I''m sure you are aware Jim handcrafts all of his rings from scratch, and really does behave with the integrity of an artisan.
I imagine many of JM''s gems also come certified.
For these and other reasons, I am confident you can rule out that any of his gems are "cheap".

Some may not be "ideal" colour for that variety for what the market dictates - but as you can see from the work, JM is not a mainstream jeweller, so the quirkiness etc of the gems are part of the whole piece / aesthetic.

Most of the rings Jim makes for the site are usually cabochons -
does your girl prefer cabochohns to faceted gems?


Personally I like the idea of having a couple different e-rings in diff. metals and gem colours (probably because this is what I do myself, including a JM).

 

[empress]

Given her comments, I''d be tempted to see if he will duplicate 1247 (Paris) with a blue sapphire and you could work with him to select the stone and have it certified, etc. of that makes you more comfortable.

 

[FrekeChild]

I''m getting the feeling that your GF might be a little bit like me.

If that is the case, you might have this to look forward to:

 

[chrono]

Out of all the choices listed, 1331 strikes me as more of an e-ring whereas the rest are not quite due to the unusual shape and design. As with all settings, the center stone can always be replaced with the colour and variety of your choice. You can also adapt setting 1331 to accomodate a faceted stone as well if needed.

 

[reggie]

arjunajane - I never thought about it until you mentioned it but of course everyone of his gems would be certified. I just assumed it was all part of the ring and that was that. You wouldn’t get any paperwork. That’s why I wanted to know if his handpicked gems were good or not. I feel very silly for not realizing that before.

If she wanted just one very nice quality ering she said she would want it faceted. She would prefer cushion but it all depends on the setting.

Chrono – 1331 is basically that same as Eng-E which she likes as well. I agree with you it is more of a ering. This setting seems more appropriate if I wanted to really spend some money on a nice sapphire. She probably would want the setting to be in white gold or platinum but still have that same design. This is the option I think I am going to ultimately go towards.

FrekeChild – that is a lot of fun rings. I’m thinking she is going to end up just like you.

I have to admit the thought of being able to purchase a few already rings sounds so appealing. I don’t have to worry about anything really except for the sizing for the finger. Maybe it is the easy way out of this situation but it is something she would like.

Jeff White is the first person I think of when sourcing a well cut sapphire. I like how he takes precision faceting very seriously. I think that is very important when almost all parts of your gem will be available to see in a setting like 1331. He even tied for first place in a competition last year if any of you were curious. (I think Gary Braun place third in the PreMaster division but entered as Anonymous)

So besides those two who else can you think of that can cut a really good sapphire? Can they both (or anyone else) source the same type of stuff or is one better at it then the other? Or, is it so hard to find something you just go with whoever has the best quality sapphire regardless of the quality of cutter? This whole process is still very new to me.

 

[Rockit]

I agree, a ring similar to James Meyer''s 1331 with a faceted blue sapphire would be a most beautiful, worthy and timeless ring. All the Meyer pieces are stunning and quite distinctive. Personally, I don''t think you can go wrong with JM, both in terms of the quality of his work and his approachability. For an added twist, as a center gem, perhaps an exquisite, top color, concave cut sapphire from someone like Richard Homer would do the trick?

Reggie, I followed your ER saga on the other PS thread. I look forward to seeing your ultimate choice. Best Wishes!

 

[Rockit]

Richard Wise could surely source a gorgeous sapphire for you.

 

[akmiss]

Date: 2/18/2010 10:13:05 PM
Author: Chrono
Out of all the choices listed, 1331 strikes me as more of an e-ring whereas the rest are not quite due to the unusual shape and design. As with all settings, the center stone can always be replaced with the colour and variety of your choice. You can also adapt setting 1331 to accomodate a faceted stone as well if needed.

Agreed. The 1331 all the way and I love this setting more with a faceted stone.

 

[ma re]

If she''d like to several rings to choose from and if you''d like to keep things within a reasonable budget, I have another suggestion - color change gems.

Stones like spinels, chrysoberyls, garnets, sapphires and some other, sometimes come in color-change varieties which have one color under more warm lights (like standard incandescents), and a completely different color in conditions when lights have a cooler cast (like fluorescents). That way she can virtually have two rings for the price of one, and if she chooses a shape that''s asymmetrical (like a pear, a trillion, or a heart), or a design that doesen''t carry perfect symmetry (like one side of the shank wider than the other, each in a different color, stone set at an angle etc.), she can wear it the other way around each time and have several distinctive looks all in the same piece.

Maybe it''s something to consider.

 

[chrono]

It isn’t just the cutting style and skill that matters but also who is also able to source the best material that meets your specifications. Sometimes, one vendor happens to have something nicer than another vendor and sometimes not. It all depends in the timing. The best thing for you is to contact several cutters/vendors and see what they have available. If you happen to not be attracted to concave faceting, note that Richard Homer also cuts the traditional flat faceting method excellently as well.

Personally, I lean towards getting a single e-ring with the best stone and setting which means a very fine faceted sapphire in the 1331 setting. I understand her wanting lots of fun rings and those can be untaken later on special dates like anniversaries as right hand rings aka RHR.

 

[Upgradable]

You might be interested in checking out this thread. Here's a picture of ckim's beautiful JM sapphire ering:

I consider myself to be one of Jim's biggest cheerleaders! I have a diamond three stone from him (Eng-J), and am waiting on a star sapphire he is setting for me in 1373. I know from my experiences with him that he is a perfectionist and is unwilling to deliver a piece that is less than perfect! I'd be quite happy with a stone he selected for a pre-made ring. If I wanted something specific, I'd also feel very comfortable letting him choose a stone for me. His prices are very reasonable too.

I wish you the best with this quest. And I'm confident if you decide to go with Jim, you will be 100% happy with the outcome!!

(BTW- I LOVE the gargoyle!! I climbed all those steps too to see his cute little ugly mug! In fact, I ended up with motion sickness walking back down the steps!)

 

[Stone Hunter]

ckim''s ring is just beautiful. I too think you should go with the one faceted stone for now -- it will be very special even if other rings join it later. And an ering is all about special!!

 

[reggie]

Rockit – I will be sure to add Richard Wise on the list as well. From what I’ve read it seem like he would be a very knowledgeable and helpful person to work with.

ma re – Without seeing a color change in person I would be a little hesitant on have one of them sourced for me. The idea of having one in the future though does sound appealing. I feel the same way about a concaved cut sapphire. If it was a RHR I would more than willing to gamble on such a prospect though. Thank you for the suggestion.

I would want a medium to darker blue sapphire cut as a cushion. If it has to have any type of a hue to it I’d want it to error to a light blue. Having a purple tint probably wouldn’t be the best thing as the girlfriend isn’t into pink or purple.

Chrono – Thank you again for your advice. I’m going to try to get a hold of Jim on Monday. I’ll introduce myself and bounce some ideas off him and maybe get some good suggestions. For example I want to make sure the sapphire has a nice profile where a lot of the real estate of the sapphire is being shown underneath the bezel. I would like the get a number from him of what would be a good minimum depth in mm to make sure I can achieve that look. Things like that. Hopefully he will be receptive to my questions. After that I’ll try not to focus on just one or two vendors in my search for a suitable sapphire.

Upgradable – I’m glad to hear you have had a good experience with Jim especially now as you are willing to go with him again. I’m exciting to see your 1373 once it’s all finished. How long is it going to take him to make your ring? Is it the same amount of time as it took him to make your first one? As for your motion sickness I had a somewhat similar experience. There was a vendor across the street that was selling warm wine. I never had it before and it was cold outside so it seemed like it would be fun to try it. That stuff gave me the worse headache. It got even worse having to climb up and down those narrow stairs.

 

[Upgradable]

Reggie, it took 6 weeks for my first piece, and the star sapphire ring will be finished within 4 weeks. I think those are pretty good turn around times. I just love Jim!!

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 2/18/2010 11:37:35 PM
Author: reggie
arjunajane - I never thought about it until you mentioned it but of course everyone of his gems would be certified. I just assumed it was all part of the ring and that was that. You wouldn’t get any paperwork. That’s why I wanted to know if his handpicked gems were good or not. I feel very silly for not realizing that before.


If she wanted just one very nice quality ering she said she would want it faceted. She would prefer cushion but it all depends on the setting.


Chrono – 1331 is basically that same as Eng-E which she likes as well. I agree with you it is more of a ering. This setting seems more appropriate if I wanted to really spend some money on a nice sapphire. She probably would want the setting to be in white gold or platinum but still have that same design. This is the option I think I am going to ultimately go towards.


FrekeChild – that is a lot of fun rings. I’m thinking she is going to end up just like you.


I have to admit the thought of being able to purchase a few already rings sounds so appealing. I don’t have to worry about anything really except for the sizing for the finger. Maybe it is the easy way out of this situation but it is something she would like.


Jeff White is the first person I think of when sourcing a well cut sapphire. I like how he takes precision faceting very seriously. I think that is very important when almost all parts of your gem will be available to see in a setting like 1331. He even tied for first place in a competition last year if any of you were curious. (I think Gary Braun place third in the PreMaster division but entered as Anonymous)


So besides those two who else can you think of that can cut a really good sapphire? Can they both (or anyone else) source the same type of stuff or is one better at it then the other? Or, is it so hard to find something you just go with whoever has the best quality sapphire regardless of the quality of cutter? This whole process is still very new to me.

Hey again reggie,

my apologies, I didn''t intend to make you feel silly; I actually can''t speak to the fact of all of Jim''s stones being certed, but I''m pretty sure its mentioned in the description?

More what I was getting at, is after all the thought and creativity that goes into the pieces, it would seem kinda odd to use poor gems, kwim?

As far as buying an engagement quality sapphire, imo you cannot go past jeff if you like precision faceting. The cushion in my av is a JW, which I had set in a custom BGD anniversary ring. I would not have hesitated to have that set by Jim.

Jeff White is a gentleman and a great cutter, and also has an uncanny knack for finding *just the right* rough / recut candidate with sapphires- I could not be happier with mine.

I think that combo would be a smashing ering any girl would love!

 

[FrekeChild]

Going along with what just about everyone else has said, I think for a precision cut colored stone I''d bug Jeff White (duh) and Gene Flanigan of Precision Gems. Of course that just depends on whose style you like the most, and who can get the rough you want. Gene tends to do more interesting cuts, which I think is really cool and makes it more individualized.