ITALIAN-ENGLISH GLOSSARY OF JEWELS!PLEASE HELP ME!!!!

[lally]

hi!!!please help me, i'm so

!!!!
I'm working on my degree thesis and i do have to make a glossary of jewels related terms (english-italian)...but i've got some problems!
would anyone be so kind to explain me the difference between a bezel and a collet? and between a gypsy and a rub over setting?..kiss!!

 

[valeria101]

Date: 4/7/2005 6:2:14 AM
Author:lally

WHICH IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN

A BEZEL AND A COLLET?

AND BETWEEN A BEZEL, A COLLET AND A ROB OVER SETTING?

Let's try...

As far as I know:

There three have one thing in common: all three types of settings place a continuous band of metal around a stone.
The way the metal keeps the stone in place makes the difference.

- in a "bezel", the stone is placed on a seat carved out or added onto the inside walls of the metal piece and clamped in place by a bent rim of the metal.

- a collet setting is a fine strype of metal that covers only the girdle of a faceted stone (see picture at the end of this message).
This is an old style, not too often done today. Tiffany's "diamonds by the yard" are collet set diamonds (link).

- "rub over" works in the same way as the bezel, only the metal surrounding the stone does not follow the shape of the stone in any way. The term is more often used for small stones set into the metal body of a piece of jewelry. Alrger stones set like this are sometimes reffered to as "gypsy setting".

And not the good part: the three terms do not have strict meaning - they are used interchangeably. More often, "bezel" is used instead of the other two which are not as common.

Hope this helps.

I don't think the definitions are perfect either, just my understanding.

There are many jewelry glossaries on the web. The largest I know of is this. Short ones mostly about jewelry techniques and antique styles are posted by Artofplatinum.com and www.adin.be. You might want to take a look.

 

[lally]

thank you so much!!! I didn''t need a perfect definition...but an idea... to match the italian and the english term!
thanks thanks!

 

[mdx]

Hey Guys
This is very encouraging for the future of our industry to see students visiting Pricescope.

There’s no better place for them to ask questions and contribute what they are learning.

Johan