Can appraiser tell whether an emerald is real?

[vinkalmann]

Hi there,

My wife recently inherited a emerald ring from her grandmother. I should say that we were told it was an emerald, but I have my doubts because the stone literally has no flaws in it when viewed under a magnifying glass. Like nothing in there. We took it to a local appraiser and they weren't really able to say whether it was or wasn't real. They wanted to keep the stone overnight to look at it more, but my wife wasn't comfortable with it. My question is this, if the stone is a synthetic emerald, would an appraiser be able to differentiate it from a natural emerald?

I have a feeling that the answer that's going to come back from the forum is "send it to AGL". If so, can anyone give me some pointers to ease my wife's mind about doing this. Her main concerns are it getting lost in the mail and the lab swapping it out for something else when sending it back.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Pandora II]

You will need to send it to a lab or find and appraiser with expertise in coloured stones who can check it out under a microscope.

A totally flawless emerald of good colour would make me think it was almost certainly synthetic. There are two kinds of synthetic emerald available and each has different types of inclusions. Using a microscope should give a pretty good idea which of the two it is.

I presume that they checked that it was indeed and emerald and not synthetic spinel or paste or anything like that? A synthetic will give the same results as the natural.

If it was my stone I would presume synthetic until proven otherwise.

 

[vinkalmann]

You will need to send it to a lab or find and appraiser with expertise in coloured stones who can check it out under a microscope.

A totally flawless emerald of good colour would make me think it was almost certainly synthetic. There are two kinds of synthetic emerald available and each has different types of inclusions. Using a microscope should give a pretty good idea which of the two it is.

I presume that they checked that it was indeed and emerald and not synthetic spinel or paste or anything like that? A synthetic will give the same results as the natural.

If it was my stone I would presume synthetic until proven otherwise.

Thanks for the response! I tend to agree with you that it's likely not real, I guess I'm just having one of those "what if?" fantasies

 

[T L]

You will need to send it to a lab or find and appraiser with expertise in coloured stones who can check it out under a microscope.

A totally flawless emerald of good colour would make me think it was almost certainly synthetic. There are two kinds of synthetic emerald available and each has different types of inclusions. Using a microscope should give a pretty good idea which of the two it is.

I presume that they checked that it was indeed and emerald and not synthetic spinel or paste or anything like that? A synthetic will give the same results as the natural.

If it was my stone I would presume synthetic until proven otherwise.

Although they do make synthetic emeralds with inclusions these days (in order to deceive), the biggest red flag that an emerald is a synthetic is no inclusions.

 

[vinkalmann]

The other clue that it might not be real is her grandmother wore the ring often. I would find it hard to imagine that someone would be wearing a 3+ carat (guessing here) flawless natural emerald on their hand on a daily basis.

 

[T L]

The other clue that it might not be real is her grandmother wore the ring often. I would find it hard to imagine that someone would be wearing a 3+ carat (guessing here) flawless natural emerald on their hand on a daily basis.

Well, that doesn't mean anything. Some people adore showing off their expensive pieces and wearing them on a daily basis. The flawless part is what is disconcerting.

 

[VapidLapid]

I have a friend who wears a 2 carat emerald platinum ring every day. I would have yours checked out; it's the only way you'll know for sure. AGL is mighty trustworthy. I doubt that employees have unmonitored (spy camera) access to stones they are examining.

 

[chrono]

Sure, an appraiser can do it.....if he/she has experience with coloured gemstones and the right tools.

It is the flawless part that makes me suspect it might be a synthetic but of course, it isn't conclusive. As for the trustworthiness of the labs, consumers and vendors have been sending big ticket items to AGL for years and haven't had any issues of stone swapping. One can always check if it's the same stone by dimensions and location of inclusions. It isn't that easy to duplicate a stone to get the same colour, shape and dimensions.

 

[pregcurious]

It depends on the appraiser. If you let us know your general location, we can recommend those with colored stone expertise. The are not inexpensive, but you will need an appraisal if it is real to insure it, even with an AGL report. In the DC area, I can recommend Martin Fuller in McLean, VA. You can search his name on PS for reviews.

 

[Pandora II]

Sure, an appraiser can do it.....if he/she has experience with coloured gemstones and the right tools.

It is the flawless part that makes me suspect it might be a synthetic but of course, it isn't conclusive. As for the trustworthiness of the labs, consumers and vendors have been sending big ticket items to AGL for years and haven't had any issues of stone swapping. One can always check if it's the same stone by dimensions and location of inclusions. It isn't that easy to duplicate a stone to get the same colour, shape and dimensions.

AGL did all the reports on the Elizabeth Taylor collection... lucky, lucky them!

 

[T L]

Sure, an appraiser can do it.....if he/she has experience with coloured gemstones and the right tools.

It is the flawless part that makes me suspect it might be a synthetic but of course, it isn't conclusive. As for the trustworthiness of the labs, consumers and vendors have been sending big ticket items to AGL for years and haven't had any issues of stone swapping. One can always check if it's the same stone by dimensions and location of inclusions. It isn't that easy to duplicate a stone to get the same colour, shape and dimensions.

AGL did all the reports on the Elizabeth Taylor collection... lucky, lucky them!

Lucky Christopher Smith. He also wrote several pieces of documentation to accompany the reports. *sigh - he has my dream job*

 

[Pandora II]

Sure, an appraiser can do it.....if he/she has experience with coloured gemstones and the right tools.

It is the flawless part that makes me suspect it might be a synthetic but of course, it isn't conclusive. As for the trustworthiness of the labs, consumers and vendors have been sending big ticket items to AGL for years and haven't had any issues of stone swapping. One can always check if it's the same stone by dimensions and location of inclusions. It isn't that easy to duplicate a stone to get the same colour, shape and dimensions.

AGL did all the reports on the Elizabeth Taylor collection... lucky, lucky them!

Lucky Christopher Smith. He also wrote several pieces of documentation to accompany the reports. *sigh - he has my dream job*

Oh ditto - and he's a really nice guy as well so it's hard to appropriately hate him

 

[vinkalmann]

Sure, an appraiser can do it.....if he/she has experience with coloured gemstones and the right tools.

It is the flawless part that makes me suspect it might be a synthetic but of course, it isn't conclusive. As for the trustworthiness of the labs, consumers and vendors have been sending big ticket items to AGL for years and haven't had any issues of stone swapping. One can always check if it's the same stone by dimensions and location of inclusions. It isn't that easy to duplicate a stone to get the same colour, shape and dimensions.

Can you offer any advice on what one does about insurance when sending it in? Not knowing it's value makes it kind of tricky. Save for example we thought it was real and insured for $20,000 (totally made up number of course). We would have to pay $180 or so for insurance based on the UPS site. If the thing did get lost, I would assume that we would have to prove somehow the stone was real to collect?

 

[LD]

I'm with everybody else on the "send it to AGL" route. Just out of a matter of interest, how is it set and in what type of metal? Do you have any photos?

 

[vinkalmann]

I'm with everybody else on the "send it to AGL" route. Just out of a matter of interest, how is it set and in what type of metal? Do you have any photos?

I don't have any photos handy. It's set in gold in a fairly lightweight setting. The appraiser was under the opinion that the type of setting the stone is in isn't consistent with what he would expect to see if the stone were an emerald. Meaning he would expect to see something a little higher end. I would tend to agree with this as the setting is pretty simple and doesn't provide much protection for the stone.

As a side question, if this were another type of stone like a Tsavorite, would it be more reasonable to have no inclusions? I was looking at pictures online and it does look somewhat like them. Any other green stones with high clarity I should be looking at as a possible match?

Thanks for the help everyone I appreciate it!

 

[evergreen]

Not a reply based on stones, exactly, but you must have it appraised somehow before you send it (if you plan to insure it). UPS almost certainly won't reimburse you unless you can prove how much it cost (or, at least, the US Postal Service definitely won't -- silly me, insured a package for $400 and found out after it went missing that I had to have receipts for the items inside! Thank goodness it found its way to our doorstep, mysteriously, 3 weeks later). Just a heads-up! Sounds like a tricky chicken/egg situation... how much do you insure it for, so you can mail it, so you can get it appraised and know how much to insure it for?

 

[Pandora II]

I could understand an appraiser not being sure if a stone was a natural emerald or a synthetic emerald but if he can't tell one species from another than he shouldn't be in the business!

Given that the ring belonged to your wife's grandmother, do you have any idea of age? Tsavorite wasn't discovered until 1969 and not available on the market until the 70's. A 3 carat stone in a fine emerald colour and flawless would be $$$ and very hard to fine (they're 200 times rarer than emerald).

Tsavorites are also rarely flawless under a loupe, and they scratch up and chip if worn a lot. My e-ring tsav is loupe clean, and I have another that is also loupe clean but most have some internal inclusions even if they are eye-clean.

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

I read this with interest, although I live in UK, maybe some information could help me. I inherited an emerald riring which is just under 2cm in length. I took it to a supposedly reputable jeweller for valuation, two months ago. They were to send to the UK Assay office which I just found out they didn't due to cost. It has since been sent to another two companies/individuals for clarification but no one can give a definitive answer as to whether it IS real or not. It has a few inclusions, dark in colour. Any help would be awesome. Thanks

 

[chrono]

There no good labs in the UK; your best bet is the Birmingham Assay Office (Safeguard) unless you are willing to send it to a different country in Europe. Please clarify as to what the jeweller means by not being able to send it to the Assay due to the cost?

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

They said it would cost me to much to send it and have all the tests done. It was supposed to be the Birmingham Assay office but they didn't tell me that after a phone call with the specialist, they decided to send to someone else

 

[chrono]

How much did they quote? I do not recall their services as being that expensive. As a consumer, you can contact and work with them directly.

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

There was no price quoted. I did contact the assay office but my ring is not with them. I have no idea where it is it who it is with for sure. I heard the name Pauline and a company name of Jewellery Solutions but I've not found a website or contact detail. I went into the jeweller who I profit contacted, felt like I got the brush off

 

[JTM222]

Very very likely that it's not a real emerald. It may be chrome green tourmaline or a tsavorite. Worst case, it's fake.

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

Very possible but I was told Tourmaline was easily recognised. If its fake, then its a nice piece to wear. Its the not knowing for sure that's tough. No one has been able to give a definitive answer, the ring is very old, an inherited piece. I've waited two months so far, so here's hoping I get my original ring back soon

 

[chrono]

I could be way off base but I don't have a good feeling about the jeweller you are dealing with currently.
1. No sign of your ring (at least no idea where it is)
2. Refusal to send it of to the Assay Office under the pretext of cost of testing
3. Sent it off to someone else who couldn't identify it. ID-ing an emerald is NOT difficult.

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

Thank you SO much for your help. I think I have no choir now but to contact a legal entity. I feel you are completely accurate in your 3 points. Thank you again

 

[chrono]

That is just my gut feel; I have no proof to back up my words. At this point, I would keep pestering the jeweller to get your emerald back (and make sure it is your original emerald) as soon as possible.

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

After few calls and armed with information I've gleaned from your answers, I've been told I'll get my ring back mid to late next week. Just hope it's my original one. Thanks again for all your help

 

[Sunstorm]

Well, that is very concerning about the jeweler holding back the emerald from a customer, I would never leave an emerald with a jeweler that does not have my absolute trust. IMHO, in the majority of cases synthetic emeralds can be easily identified these days and not too muh equipment is needed. First, it takes a few minutes to ascertain whether it is an emerald and then one can look for clues whether it is natural or synthetic. Firstly, one uses a polariscope and a refractometer, UV sometimes (especially to check for natural or synthetic, better in some cases than others), then a microscope is used for inclusions. These days most emeralds have inclusions whether synthetic or not. The inclusions are entirely different though. As to the original stone in question, the total absence of inclusions almost always means synthetic but those are also harder to identify whether natural. An inexperienced person might think that inclusions mean natural but not at all. If in doubt and most likely anyhow I would ask the customer to take the emerald to a lab/appraiser if they wanted to know for sure.

We recently had a case of a customer bringing in four large emeralds to be set, one was free from inclusions and the other three had telltale inclusions of synthetic emeralds, all four were synthetic which was obvious after a short examination but then later also confirmed by a lab. To the second person asking I can also say that I truly hope you recognize your stone and can be sure you are getting back your original stone.

 

[NaomiCRBrown]

Many thanks, I had previously used the jeweller in question for other valuations and based on the results and customer care, we used them for the family. Based on all that, I felt I could leave the emerald as they had originally said it would be the Birmingham Assay Office, so my mind was at peace. The ring I inherited from family that goes back to 1940s and it had a few inclusions but only until about half way down, also two slight smooth chips on one side as well as few scratches. I'm SO concerned that I won't get my original back and feel sick at the thought of being hoodwinked. The jeweller knew and knows that it means a lot to me and that it took months for me to consider leaving it with them. I truly hope I recognize it 100%. Thank you for the details for testing, it will help me further when I collect it. I've been told after being 'on hold' three days after my visit, that they eventually got in touch with the woman who's testing it and I will get it back mid- to late- next week.