Asscher and Square Step Cut/Emerald??

[tberube]

I was just reading through the "who has the biggest Asscher" thread and it was mentioned that an Asscher is somehow different from "other square step cuts." How is this so? From my gathered knowledge, an Asscher is just another name for a square Emerald cut diamond. I do know that there are Royal Asschers, which are branded cuts that have extra facets to add sparkle, but those are fairly new.

Can someone tell me/show me what the difference is, if any, between a square step (emerald) cut and an asscher??

 

[DiamanteBlu]

The response to your question is not trivial. I have been composing one but keep getting interrupted! I''ll post it shortly with any luck!
BD

 

[NewEnglandLady]

I am guitly of loosely using the term "asscher" simply because it''s more recognized than "square emerald cut" (though not on PS

I know that the asscher cut is patented and has more facets than the square emerald cut. If you had a square emerald cut and an asscher in front of you, you could easily point out the asscher because it has 5 steps on the crown as opposed to 3.

Musey has a real "asscher"--I can definitely see a difference between her firely asscher and my generic square emerald.

 

[tberube]

NewEnglandLady and Musey, I really hope you don''t mind - I put images of both your gorgeous pieces together for visual comparison. On the left is Musey''s beautiful "Asscher," and on the right is NEL''s stunning "Square Cut Emerald."

Except for the fact that they''re double deliciousness, I really didn''t see a whole lot of difference in the cut. I''m probably a moron when it comes to seeing the number of steps. However, I might recall (perhaps incorrectly) Musey calling her diamond a "ROYAL Asscher," which would then set it apart from a "generic asscher." And would that generic asscher be the same as a square cut emerald? Or are there now THREE different types of asscher?

Or is this just an obnoxious question of semantics I''m getting into here?

 

[Ninama]

Okay.... here's a little tidbit I found:

"Asscher Cut" is a common use term used by the industry to describe a square emerald cut diamond that exhibits an enchanting pattern of concentric squares when viewed from a top down view. Because the cut is actually a "square emerald cut" it will be described as such on the more recognized diamond grading reports like those issued by the GIA and AGS gemological laboratories but the pet name in the industry for the shape and facet structure is "Asscher Cut".

The Asscher cut diamond was developed in the early 1900's and is believed to be the predecessor of the modern emerald cut diamond. Unlike a traditional emerald cut diamond, the modern Asscher cut features dramatic cut corners and larger step facets which contribute to the pattern of concentric squares that appear in the center of the table facet.

There are no "ideal proportions" for an Asscher cut diamond, however the total depth of the diamond needs to be deeper than is necessary for a traditional emerald cut diamond in order for the concentric squares to be evenly spaced and properly aligned... In our experience, the total depth of a properly cut Asscher will fall somewhere between 67 - 71% with the table facet often being a little smaller.

http://www.niceice.com/asscher.htm

 

[LadyAmythyst69]

Date: 11/26/2007 7:49:13 PM
Author: Ninama
Okay.... here''s a little tidbit I found:

''Asscher Cut'' is a common use term used by the industry to describe a square emerald cut diamond that exhibits an enchanting pattern of concentric squares when viewed from a top down view. Because the cut is actually a ''square emerald cut'' it will be described as such on the more recognized diamond grading reports like those issued by the GIA and AGS gemological laboratories but the pet name in the industry for the shape and facet structure is ''Asscher Cut''.

The Asscher cut diamond was developed in the early 1900''s and is believed to be the predecessor of the modern emerald cut diamond. Unlike a traditional emerald cut diamond, the modern Asscher cut features dramatic cut corners and larger step facets which contribute to the pattern of concentric squares that appear in the center of the table facet.

There are no ''ideal proportions'' for an Asscher cut diamond, however the total depth of the diamond needs to be deeper than is necessary for a traditional emerald cut diamond in order for the concentric squares to be evenly spaced and properly aligned... In our experience, the total depth of a properly cut Asscher will fall somewhere between 67 - 71% with the table facet often being a little smaller.

http://www.niceice.com/asscher.htm

That''s good information for an ideal depth for an asscher. Thanks!

 

[LadyAmythyst69]

Date: 11/26/2007 7:31:25 PM
Author: tberube
NewEnglandLady and Musey, I really hope you don''t mind - I put images of both your gorgeous pieces together for visual comparison. On the left is Musey''s beautiful ''Asscher,'' and on the right is NEL''s stunning ''Square Cut Emerald.''

Except for the fact that they''re double deliciousness, I really didn''t see a whole lot of difference in the cut. I''m probably a moron when it comes to seeing the number of steps. However, I might recall (perhaps incorrectly) Musey calling her diamond a ''ROYAL Asscher,'' which would then set it apart from a ''generic asscher.'' And would that generic asscher be the same as a square cut emerald? Or are there now THREE different types of asscher?

Or is this just an obnoxious question of semantics I''m getting into here?

Royal Asscher is the re-vamped asscher cut that is branded and now done only by the Royal Asscher Co. It has more facets than the antique asschers.

 

[Ellen]

I know the corners and how much they''re clipped has something to do with distinguishing the two also. The true Asscher type has bigger clipped corners. And that is evident in that pic.

 

[DiamanteBlu]

Here is an article telling the story of how the Royal Asscher came to be: Loupe Mike Asscher [in the pic] has actually made a few post here. His name is "RoyalAsscher" if you want to look.

 

[DiamanteBlu]

Also, I found the design patent granted in 2002 for the Royal Asscher. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the diagrams to post. They are very cool. Hopefully this link will work: Royal Asscher patent diagrams
Also, in the reference to prior patents in the application, there was no mention of the 1902 patent. I thought that was interesting. I have been able to find nothing on it. Main 2002 Asscher patent page

 

[DiamanteBlu]

This is from the Asscher web site:

"Royal Asscher® Cut
Royal Asscher Diamond Company has designed a new model - the Royal Asscher® Cut, a variant on the Asscher Cut that has had patent coverage since its design in 1902. What is special about this Royal Asscher® Cut is the spectacular light reflection thanks to its 16 extra facets. The new model is square and has a total of 74 facets."

"Numerous emerald cuts have been sold as so-called Asscher Cuts. This incited Royal Asscher Diamond Company to improve the brilliancy of the Asscher Cut even more in the new model."

Asscher site

 

[DiamanteBlu]

As far as the evolution of the original Asscher cut from 1902 to modern emerald cuts goes . . . Joseph Asscher patented a square emerald cut in 1902 [or was it 1905?] that became known worldwide as the Asscher Cut.

"The Asscher Cut was modified, and by the 1920s it showed two or three upper girdle step facets and only three or four lower girdle steps. This gave the stone more brilliance and lent itself to the angular Art Deco style of the time. It was the Asscher Cut''s most popular facet arrangement.

As styles changed, so did diamond cutting. Culets became smaller, and tables became larger. The square style became elongated, and sometime during the late ''30s or early ''40s, the Asscher Cut gave way to the shallower, longer, and more modern emerald cut.

In 1936, brothers Abraham and Joseph changed the name of the business to the Asscher Diamond Company." Gary Roskin, G.G., FGA, Senior Editor -- JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 9/1/2001

There is an interesting article here: The Rise of the House of Asscher

 

[musey]

Date: 11/26/2007 7:31:25 PM
Author: tberube
NewEnglandLady and Musey, I really hope you don't mind

Not a bit, thanks for posting my picture for reference!

You are correct that I referred to it as a royal asscher. It was appraised as such, but I did not buy it from the RA company (it was a second-hand stone). I believe that must mean it's inscribed...

I really don't know as much about my stone as I should!!

In a lot of cases, I actually prefer the wider steps of the square emerald. In a stone the size of mine (and I assume those smaller, as well), it's more difficult to distinguish the steps of a RA in real life than those of a square emerald (this obviously varies from cut to cut).

 

[NewEnglandLady]

I love Musey''s ring. *swoon*.

Okay, so for me the first thing I see besides my smaller windmills is my comparatively massive table. Because there are more steps on Musey''s ring, her table % is much lower. Mine is 63% and bet Musey''s is in the mid 50s. Also, my crown height is over 10%, but even looking at it straight on I can tell Musey''s crown height is higher, giving her stone that fire and depth. I love my stone, but I definitely prefer Musey''s.

 

[DiamanteBlu]

Both of the stones are gorgeous!

 

[DiamanteBlu]

Date: 11/26/2007 9:45:17 PM
Author: musey
You are correct that I referred to it as a royal asscher. It was appraised as such, but I did not buy it from the RA company (it was a second-hand stone). I believe that must mean it''s inscribed...

If you loupe the stone you should see a Royal Asscher cut number on the girdle. I''m sure the RA people will send you a replacement certificate if you ask. That would be cool to have.

 

[tberube]

Date: 11/26/2007 9:21:39 PM
Author: DiamanteBlu
As far as the evolution of the original Asscher cut from 1902 to modern emerald cuts goes . . . Joseph Asscher patented a square emerald cut in 1902 [or was it 1905?] that became known worldwide as the Asscher Cut.

'The Asscher Cut was modified, and by the 1920s it showed two or three upper girdle step facets and only three or four lower girdle steps. This gave the stone more brilliance and lent itself to the angular Art Deco style of the time. It was the Asscher Cut's most popular facet arrangement.

As styles changed, so did diamond cutting. Culets became smaller, and tables became larger. The square style became elongated, and sometime during the late '30s or early '40s, the Asscher Cut gave way to the shallower, longer, and more modern emerald cut.

In 1936, brothers Abraham and Joseph changed the name of the business to the Asscher Diamond Company.' Gary Roskin, G.G., FGA, Senior Editor -- JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 9/1/2001

There is an interesting article here: The Rise of the House of Asscher

Wait, does that mean that the Asscher cut bore the modern Emerald cut?


Why yes, NEL, I now can see that the table on Musey's diamond is much smaller than yours. Hmm. Interesting. I know the table on my EC is enormous and that the diamond is cut on the slight shallow side (I think I'm right in saying this, though I am hardly an expert). But I love the fluid look of it and the fire it gives off is spectacular. I love step cuts... Good insight...

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

i have always referred to any square emerald as an "asscher", but if it were a distinguished and patented cut, like a royal asscher, i would be sure to mention that it were a royal asscher. likewise if it were cut during the original time of creation which it was then referred to as an asscher i would call it an asscher but also mention ah it was an antique.

when i bought my "asscher" aka square emerald it was explained to me that it was not the patented asscher cut which would have been noted on the GIA certificate if it was...i love it anyway as i''m not really one for huge windmills. i guess more than anything the terminology all depends on who you are talking to and how in-depth their knowledge is on the subject. most people who see my ring have never heard of an asscher or a square emerald cut for that matter, lol!