A Question about custom settings

[Arcadian]

My problem;

10 year anniversary ring. He picked the stone (I limited what he could choose from but had to be done ) He knows I want a custom ring that marks this important time of our lives and he's all for it. I've got a jumble of ideas in my head, but I need a genius who can create the setting and be able to tell me if any of those ideas would work without the ring looking like frankenstien.

I really don't plan on going with plat (I know I know, but I'm not a fan of how it looks against my skin!) and want to go with unplated 18K+ white gold instead as I like how it looks.

The question;

For those ladies and gentlemen that went with a high end custom setting with a colored stone for birthday, anniversary, engagement ring, or for whatever reason, what was the determining factor for who you went with to create your setting? I'm really going to need someone who will have to understand that while I may not have a lot of time to speak with them unless its via email, I do want to have some input.

Suggestions of vendors is a plus!


Btw, I'm going to say sorry NOW to get it out of the way. y'all are going to be sick of me by the time its all done.

-A

 

[Kismet]

The determining factor of who I used was what style I wanted the piece to be.

For my demantoid ring (I wanted pave) I spoke on the phone with Leon twice and had an email or two with his assistant.

For my floating pendant (I wanted clean lines/deco look) I went back and forth (via email) with Peter Lees quite a bit over the dimensions of all the parts. The pendant is the piece where I had the most input into the design.

For my emerald ring (I wanted intricate gold work) I had no input with Andrew beyond the 'I want a ring kinda, sorta like this one here but let your designer run with it' when I ordered the piece.

For my chrysoberyl ring (I wanted the sparkley diamonds) I had two phone conversations with Brian Gavin. We went back and forth with the CADs a few times via email as well.

 

[VapidLapid]

what about that guy in NZ or Australia who made the Phoenix spess ring for klewis?

 

[Colored Gemstone Nut]

Arcadian:

One of the most important aspects to me was style, design, and the finished look of the pieces and sound service offered by different vendors. Personally, I have dealt with alot of traditional goldsmiths who incorporate modern technology in presenting a sketch or CAD rendering to a particular customer.
I have had 8-10 custom projects done and my 3 favorites are Mark Morell, Wink Jones of Winfields & Bob & Carol Ahern of Ahern and Brucker. Mark Morell finished my wifes ring in Platinum 10 years ago and during that time presented many, many, CAD photos and any changes or modifications done completely rendered in this fashion. Out of the 3 a Favorite.
Wink has a myriad of different talented individuals he deals with. At the time I was in the market he employed the talented serices of a vietemese craftsman to finish a pendant for my wife accenting a Homer cut Garnet. I like WInk because he is personable and really goes out of his way.
Ahern & Brucker I used for my own gentlemens ring. Out of all these sources Carole Ahern had the most raw talent and overall experience. In your case I would go with a jeweler or vendor who has an access to CAD because it was such an easy transition and exchange of changing ideas. Its tough...
What style setting are you thinking of and what and what kind of stone will you be using ...a colored stone, diamond??
I like the contrast of White Gold and halo pave...

 

[bluebirrrd]

For me, good communication is really important as well as use of sketches and CAD's. Kismet is right about style too. For our engagement ring and wedding set we started with a designer in Berkeley because we liked his style. It was a 4 hour drive each way for us to travel there. In the end I just couldn't tell if he understood what I wanted and he didn't do CAD's or sketches so I had no way of knowing if we were truly on the same page. I ended up going with a company in a completely different state that offers web based design services, also with styles I really like. All conversations were posted on a private webpage in a thread like this, with a side gallery of inspiration pieces. CAD's, sketches, and photos of waxes were all posted within the conversation. It was very interactive, visual and convenient. For me, visualization is key along with a designer patient enough to take their time with you and make something you're 100% happy with. Our rings could be changed up until the time they were cast. After that, we still had the option of redesigning them completely from scratch once for free.

 

[Indylady]

What kind of a style are you looking for? Any inspiration pieces in mind?

 

[JewelFreak]

Arcadian, haven't had a custom setting done yet -- though I have 3 in waiting that I'm saving for. But I can't imagine getting tired of you and your beautiful stones, never happen!

I'm glad you asked this, in fact -- will be useful for me & probably plenty of others in the future.

--- Laurie

 

[LD]

Arc I would only work with somebody who let me have a MAJOR say in the design. I'm a control freak and know exactly what I want and like. I find that if somebody goes off piste on me and does what THEY want, invariably it's not what I want!!! I've therefore picked the people that I work with very carefully and over the years have formed good relationships. Basically they let me design initially and then they make suggestions that I either accept or reject).

Unfortunately most of my contacts are in the UK but I have worked with Sally (Heart of Water) twice now and on both occasions she GOT IT. Right from the start. She was happy to follow a very tight brief and her communication and desire to make customers happy make her, for me, one of the best. I wouldn't hesitate to work with her again. BTW all our communications were via email and nothing got "lost" in translation.

 

[ooo~Shiney!]

I agree totally about Sally
I think she is just wonderful !!!!
I feel the same about JKT and a few others !

I so admire folks like Loving Diamonds and others who know exactly what they want !!!!!

my problem is, I want something beautiful but
have no imagination.....
I work best with someone who has artistic and creative vision
and basically takes over from my vague "I want something pretty".....

ugh, that is so lame.

 

[Arcadian]

Thank you all so much.

The stone we're using is the one from swala. I gave him a lineup to pick from, thats the one he chose. He's got good taste Now granted I've not seen it yet, its going to be here next week, so I'll get to see it before this job starts.

LD, I can't say I'm much a control freak, hubby on the other can be but he dosen't have any idea bout the design side so he's leaving it in my hands. The fact my jobs can require so much travel is the reason why I have to have someone that can 'get' what I'm saying because I just won't have tons of time to spend on it, thereby, making myself a total nutcase.

I've worked with JKT before on a ring, she's great to work with, but the type of ring I'd require, she dosen't do. Sally is a bit too far away for me. I want to work with her on a project yes, but this one I'd rather the designer is closer to me.

Indylady, one of the favs on pricescope that we both can agree on is Art Nuevo's latest Leon. My stone is not as big as that so would want the general shape as her ring, but not with the amount of blingage. Bling can be nice but I'd rather not be scared to wear the thing...lol. So there's a balance I need to strike with that.

My husband's requirements are clean lines, no halo, fine with pave though, likes french cuts too (I'm not going that route though). There's some stones he hates..like heart cut ones...lol He wants me to at least LOOK at going with platinum.

Since we're renewing our vows on our anniversary this year, I think this is why he wants me to consider it (I don't know what else he's got up his sleeve though)

Josh, thank you for giving me some names, I've heard of some, but not Ahern and Brucker. I'll certainly look them up.

VL, what guy is this?? I mean granted, he going to be too far for me to work with as I have a preference of working with someone a bit closer, but I'm curious to say the least.

Kismet, as you know I adore *covet* a lot of your pieces. Thank you for chiming in. Is Andrew related to Marc at africagems where I got my spinel?? I don't know if my personality would mesh with Leon so I've got him on a no no list, though I like many pieces that he had done. Brian Gavin is on my to contact list.

Thanks so much everyone. I'm always grateful for the people here at pricescope willing to extend that helping hand. This is a lot for me to wrap my brain around.


-A

 

[T L]

I don't have much to add about custom settings, but just wanted to wish you and your husband a Happy Anniversary!!

 

[VapidLapid]

The one here who did this
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/phoenix-ring-design.145135/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/phoenix-ring-design.145135/[/URL]

 

[Arcadian]

I don't have much to add about custom settings, but just wanted to wish you and your husband a Happy Anniversary!!

Thanks TL, though its not until December lol. We had a rather spur of the moment ceremony at Town Hall. It was sudden enough that people thought I had to have been pregnant! LOL He feels he robbed me of the whole wedding experience (frankly I'm fine without it, but if it gets me a ring I want, hey its all good! )

The only thing I have to handle is the ring. He's doing the rest (whoot!!)


-A

 

[Arcadian]

The one here who did this
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/phoenix-ring-design.145135/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/phoenix-ring-design.145135/[/URL]

Oh yea! I remember that one now! Thanks for this!!

-A

 

[Lovinggems]

Congratulations on your pending anniversary. I'm sad you're not considering French cuts, it's gorgeous. Even makes me want a diamond ring.

 

[Arcadian]

Congratulations on your pending anniversary. I'm sad you're not considering French cuts, it's gorgeous. Even makes me want a diamond ring.

Without question I LUV the look of french cuts. The price on the other hand is another story!! Though the setting budget is healthy, I don't want to blow it up on french cut diamonds. Maybe if I win the lottery??


-A

 

[lavatea]

For me, good communication is really important as well as use of sketches and CAD's. Kismet is right about style too. For our engagement ring and wedding set we started with a designer in Berkeley because we liked his style. It was a 4 hour drive each way for us to travel there. In the end I just couldn't tell if he understood what I wanted and he didn't do CAD's or sketches so I had no way of knowing if we were truly on the same page. I ended up going with a company in a completely different state that offers web based design services, also with styles I really like. All conversations were posted on a private webpage in a thread like this, with a side gallery of inspiration pieces. CAD's, sketches, and photos of waxes were all posted within the conversation. It was very interactive, visual and convenient. For me, visualization is key along with a designer patient enough to take their time with you and make something you're 100% happy with. Our rings could be changed up until the time they were cast. After that, we still had the option of redesigning them completely from scratch once for free.

This is the kind of thing I'm looking for in a designer. JKT has been awesome (I know you said she wouldn't be right for this project, though). She has done so much hand-holding and communicating, and I find that I need that.

I worked with Pearlman's for my engagement ring, and they were awesome. When I contacted them again for my wedding ring, they initially worked with me and were good about answering questions. But then all of a sudden communication ceased. I asked a few questions in my last e-mail and never received a response back. I don't know if the guy I was working with thought I wasn't serious or what, but I got miffed over the whole thing and probably won't use them again even though I had the positive experience the first time. I ended up getting a plain band from E-Weddingbands, and I'm really happy with the look. Now I can upgrade my look in the future by buying some blingy stackers or something.

Anyway, I haven't worked with enough designers to recommend someone for you outside of JKT, but BGD is on my wishlist. I'm hoping for a 5-stone pink sapphire band from him in 3 years for my 5th anniversary.

 

[Arcadian]

Thanks lavatea. If JKT did prongs I would work with her on this project. I really enjoyed working with her on my spess pear. I'm still on the hunt, and making myself crazy. Today is a contact day so I'll be contacting a few of the people listed here to see what I come up with.

If anyone else has other suggestions, would appreciate.


-A

 

[packrat]

Email Michael E and see what he has to say, Arc.

 

[Kismet]

Kismet, as you know I adore *covet* a lot of your pieces. Thank you for chiming in. Is Andrew related to Marc at africagems where I got my spinel?? I don't know if my personality would mesh with Leon so I've got him on a no no list, though I like many pieces that he had done. Brian Gavin is on my to contact list.

-A

If you want to see some of them in person, let me know and I'm sure we can work something out. I *think* Marc is Andrew's son but I can't say for certain. I'm probably the most hands off client ever. I get stressed when I have to make decisions about what looks better and I'd much rather leave those decisions in the hands of someone who has an artistic eye. Making the floating pendant was horrible for me in that regard what with having to decide over 1/2mm differences!. Not that Peter wasn't great to work with, he was. He sent me about a bazillion mock ups with different dimensions and assured me that if I hated it when it was done he would re-do it.

 

[Novel]

I'm working with JbEG on a project (albeit a diamond project, but they do work with colored stones) and I love that I can see CADs, talk with someone as much or as little as I want, and get a better price than everyone else I asked - including BGD. I'd check out their gallery if I were you and see if you like their style. My ring is not their normal style and they're doing a great job. They do nice blingage!

 

[Arcadian]

Kismet, as you know I adore *covet* a lot of your pieces. Thank you for chiming in. Is Andrew related to Marc at africagems where I got my spinel?? I don't know if my personality would mesh with Leon so I've got him on a no no list, though I like many pieces that he had done. Brian Gavin is on my to contact list.

-A

If you want to see some of them in person, let me know and I'm sure we can work something out. I *think* Marc is Andrew's son but I can't say for certain. I'm probably the most hands off client ever. I get stressed when I have to make decisions about what looks better and I'd much rather leave those decisions in the hands of someone who has an artistic eye. Making the floating pendant was horrible for me in that regard what with having to decide over 1/2mm differences!. Not that Peter wasn't great to work with, he was. He sent me about a bazillion mock ups with different dimensions and assured me that if I hated it when it was done he would re-do it.

OMG, you totally rock. Considering I'm like down the road from you and all Unless it happened this week I wouldn't be able to do a meetup until May (isn't there a gemshow in May??)

-A

 

[Arcadian]

I'm working with JbEG on a project (albeit a diamond project, but they do work with colored stones) and I love that I can see CADs, talk with someone as much or as little as I want, and get a better price than everyone else I asked - including BGD. I'd check out their gallery if I were you and see if you like their style. My ring is not their normal style and they're doing a great job. They do nice blingage!

Novel, thanks. I've looked at their website before and did in fact wondered if they did work with colored stones, specifically something softer than Sapphire or Spinel. I'll revisit them for sure.

-A

 

[Novel]

I'm working with JbEG on a project (albeit a diamond project, but they do work with colored stones) and I love that I can see CADs, talk with someone as much or as little as I want, and get a better price than everyone else I asked - including BGD. I'd check out their gallery if I were you and see if you like their style. My ring is not their normal style and they're doing a great job. They do nice blingage!

Novel, thanks. I've looked at their website before and did in fact wondered if they did work with colored stones, specifically something softer than Sapphire or Spinel. I'll revisit them for sure.

-A

The softness issue is a good question. Erica is really, really nice and I'm sure would be happy to answer by email. Their website isn't as fulsome as BGD or some others, so I don't think you'll find the answer on there.

 

[Kismet]

Kismet, as you know I adore *covet* a lot of your pieces. Thank you for chiming in. Is Andrew related to Marc at africagems where I got my spinel?? I don't know if my personality would mesh with Leon so I've got him on a no no list, though I like many pieces that he had done. Brian Gavin is on my to contact list.

-A

If you want to see some of them in person, let me know and I'm sure we can work something out. I *think* Marc is Andrew's son but I can't say for certain. I'm probably the most hands off client ever. I get stressed when I have to make decisions about what looks better and I'd much rather leave those decisions in the hands of someone who has an artistic eye. Making the floating pendant was horrible for me in that regard what with having to decide over 1/2mm differences!. Not that Peter wasn't great to work with, he was. He sent me about a bazillion mock ups with different dimensions and assured me that if I hated it when it was done he would re-do it.

OMG, you totally rock. Considering I'm like down the road from you and all Unless it happened this week I wouldn't be able to do a meetup until May (isn't there a gemshow in May??)

-A

I'm around all this week and weekend. I'm not sure if I'll be able to make it to the gem show in May. I know I won't be able to make the Saturday show but the Friday or Sunday show is possible.

 

[Arcadian]

Thanks Kismet. I've got a little something showing up this week.. I'll talk to the vendor and ask when they have an idea. But I'm thinking if thursday works for you, it would for me

I will be in town during the gem show. Not that I NEED anything mind you Last time I went I nearly got ran over by a stroller. I think they now have a rule of no children under 8. Can certainly understand why.

-A

 

[Kismet]

Thanks Kismet. I've got a little something showing up this week.. I'll talk to the vendor and ask when they have an idea. But I'm thinking if thursday works for you, it would for me

I will be in town during the gem show. Not that I NEED anything mind you Last time I went I nearly got ran over by a stroller. I think they now have a rule of no children under 8. Can certainly understand why.

-A

Thursday works depending on where/when you want to meet. I have a quickie eye appointment at 5:30pm near the Burlington Mall. Hopefully I should be done with that by 6pm.

 

[Arcadian]

Burlington mall isn't that big of a jump for me. There's restaurants around there but I have to admit I don't know which ones. (except the mexican food place)

Isn't there a macaroni grill over there? I'm up for anything really. So if Burlington is good for you it works for me. There's also Waltham too. (I only know places on Moody Street though)

Heck I wish this place had somewhere people could do meetups! (didn't it at one time??)



-A

 

[Kismet]

There's a Macaroni Grill right across from the mall. I'm not sure I can recommend the Border Cafe as everyone I know who's been to it has said it's horrible. In the mall there's a Legal Seafood, Cheesecake Factory, Uno's, Rainforest Cafe and Blue Stove (serves tapas-like food). I've been to some restaurants along Moody street but not recently. I'll ask Ella to start us a thread in the GTG forum.

 

[Arcadian]

Awesome, thanks!

-A