Diamond ring + Brilliant Earth advice

[smarti51]

Make sure you get the stuller X1 alloy of white gold.

An F will be more mind clean for you. I would go with the Stuller setting in X1 14kt and the F you wanted.


Make sure you specify you want "delicate claw prongs" to WF and that it is written into the bench work order.

The quotes were not X1 14k, I've asked for one though. Is it so much better that I should hold off/revise this all again if that turns out too expensive for the F?

What will specifying that do/tell the person working on it?

Thanks again for your help so far!

 

[shaggy1]

Make sure you get the stuller X1 alloy of white gold.

An F will be more mind clean for you. I would go with the Stuller setting in X1 14kt and the F you wanted.


Make sure you specify you want "delicate claw prongs" to WF and that it is written into the bench work order.

The quotes were not X1 14k, I've asked for one though. Is it so much better that I should hold off/revise this all again if that turns out too expensive for the F?

What will specifying that do/tell the person working on it?

Thanks again for your help so far!

X1 shouldn't make that much of a difference in the budget.

Since getting a stone with high specs is important to you, go with the F. Then STOP LOOKING.

Specifying "delicate claw prongs" on the work order will ensure that your girlfriend gets the kind of prongs that she wants. As a man who doesn't look at a lot of jewelry, you might not realize that there is a wide variety of prong styles. If you say "delicate claw prongs", it specifies the type of prongs you want. Since your girlfriend specifically told you tonight that she wants claw prongs, you need to say that. It will not make a difference in price..

 

[smarti51]

Yes, but what does delicate claw prongs mean - just that they are less visible? I've requested a quote for the X1. I'll see what that comes back as then, in all likelihood, go ahead with the order with the F diamond set on either 14k WG or the X1. It will take 3 weeks approx. for production in this case, as opposed to the 8-10 days previously quoted. Should still be a comfortable 10 days between getting it and the proposal date. That's assuming customs don't mess me around at all. Will update again when I get more info. Thanks!

 

[shaggy1]

Yes, but what does delicate claw prongs mean - just that they are less visible?

It's a shape. They taper to a point.

 

[smarti51]

Yes, but what does delicate claw prongs mean - just that they are less visible?

It's a shape. They taper to a point.

Right... I can't find any explanatory photos or anything, will it change the way it looks in this photo noticeably? I realise I'm a pain, but I have this insatiable need to understand what I don't initially. Even more so in this scenario (non-returnable, etc.).

 

[Gypsy]

Wrong view. The prong tips are where I am talking about. So when you look at the stone head on, when set, the prongs holding the stone should look refined and come to a point (taper), holding the stone securely. Instead of looking blobby and big and round.

 

[shaggy1]

1. This has claw prongs.

2. This has button prongs.

PLEASE specify claw.

I say that as the woman who owns, and loves, the second ring. Your lady wants delicate claw prongs.

 

[smarti51]

So not like it is in the image then?

 

[shaggy1]

It will look BETTER than that image.

 

[smarti51]

So Stuller no longer offer that setting for anything less than 1ct. Got the quotes back for the X1, all very reasonable. Just need to decide on another setting (again).

X1 definitely the way to go regardless?

 

[MollyMalone]

So Stuller no longer offer that setting for anything less than 1ct. Got the quotes back for the X1, all very reasonable. Just need to decide on another setting (again).

X1 definitely the way to go regardless?

Does "that setting" refer to Stuller 121855, which is one that both Gypsy and wildcat03 recommended?
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/diamond-ring-brilliant-earth-advice.224988/page-4#post-4069191#p4069191']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/diamond-ring-brilliant-earth-advice.224988/page-4#post-4069191#p4069191[/URL]
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/diamond-ring-brilliant-earth-advice.224988/page-4#post-4069491#p4069491']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/diamond-ring-brilliant-earth-advice.224988/page-4#post-4069491#p4069491[/URL]

If so, ask WF for a price quote on Stuller 122089 in the 14K X1 alloy:
http://www.stuller.com/products/build/122089/10315469/?groupId=120319#/mounting-options

Stuller itself suggests 122089 as an alternative to 121855; it sure looks like 121855 to me; and because it's part of Stuller's 3C Flexible Collection, it's available for center diamonds of various shapes and sizes -- including round stones that are ~5.5 mm in diameter

 

[Gypsy]

Yes.


Pick this setting. http://www.stuller.com/products/build/123060/12585588/?groupId=194064#/mounting-options

 

[MollyMalone]

I'd be leery about choosing Stuller 123060, unless one knows the recipient would like the heart motif. (Can you guess I'm a woman who wouldn't want hearts to be a component of my e-ring? )

 

[Gypsy]

I'd be leery about choosing Stuller 123060, unless one knows the recipient would like the heart motif. (Can you guess I'm a woman who wouldn't want hearts to be a component of my e-ring? )

I hate hearts but that one doesn't bother me. It is very subtle, I think and reminds me of the Tiffany Paloma hearts.

What I like about it is the proportions of the shank to the stone. The shank is nice and thin. I think it's a really lovely setting personally.

But your mileage may vary!

 

[MollyMalone]

You're right, Gypsy, a thinner shank would better suit the stone.

So I just now came across Stuller 122969, a new addition to the 3C Collection. With a shank that's only 1.7 mm wide at the shoulders -- and claw prongs are standard with this one; smarti, you could ask WF (once they have the mounting in hand, if you have them order it) their opinion about shaving the prongs down a bit more before they set the diamond.
http://www.stuller.com/products/build/122969/12582859/?groupId=194062#/mounting-options

 

[Gypsy]

You're right, Gypsy, a thinner shank would better suit the stone.

So I just now came across Stuller 122969, a new addition to the 3C Collection. With a shank that's only 1.7 mm wide at the shoulders -- and claw prongs are standard with this one; smarti, you could ask WF (once they have the mounting in hand, if you have them order it) their opinion about shaving the prongs down a bit more before they set the diamond.
http://www.stuller.com/products/build/122969/12582859/?groupId=194062#/mounting-options

Ahhh! That's the winner right there. I agree. Great choice. Yes,I would request the prongs be delicate and still claw shaped.

 

[smarti51]

Thank you all for your suggestions. Yes, Molly Malone, the 121855 was the one I was going to go with.

I shall ask for quotes from WF re: the other settings, though I don't anticipate much of a difference. I like the suggestion of a thinner band as it's a 0.6ct stone and she'll want it to "pop" as much as possible for its size (she is a 4.25-4.5, so that should help as well I imagine).


14k X1 white gold definitely the way to go with this regardless then?

 

[shaggy1]

14k X1 white gold definitely the way to go with this regardless then?

Yes.

And don't forget to specify "delicate claw prongs" on the bench order.

 

[Rhea]

14k X1 white gold definitely the way to go with this regardless then?

Yes. The UK and rest of the EU do not use nickel in their white gold. The US does. The alloys are closer to that that you'd find in a UK high street shop. Even if your girlfriend doesn't have a nickel allergy it'll be easier for repairs, resizing and any work done in the future if it's closer to the used norm.

From Stuller, www.stuller.com/articles/view/x1-white-gold-faqs/
Q. Does meet the European requirements for nickel release rates and fineness?

A.Test samples, submitted by Stuller, have met the current EU requirements for nickel release rates. However, Stuller does not guarantee that all products manufactured in white gold will achieve the same results, as condition of sample can affect test results.

- All karats offered in white gold are alloyed to EU specifications for gold fineness. 14 Karat is alloyed at .585 gold content.

I don't know enough about Stuller to know if they offer settings in 18 x1 but if they do, I'd be tempted by that because that's even closer to what you'd fine in the UK. The UK doesn't use 14K gold. My lovely American 14K ring (I'm American living in the UK) now has normal upkeep done with 18K gold. It's not a big deal, but I'd prefer if it were all the same metal.
Found it! www.stuller.com/products/build/122969/12582863/?groupId=194062#/mounting-options

 

[smarti51]

14k X1 white gold definitely the way to go with this regardless then?

Yes. The UK and rest of the EU do not use nickel in their white gold. The US does. The alloys are closer to that that you'd find in a UK high street shop. Even if your girlfriend doesn't have a nickel allergy it'll be easier for repairs, resizing and any work done in the future if it's closer to the used norm.

From Stuller, www.stuller.com/articles/view/x1-white-gold-faqs/
Q. Does meet the European requirements for nickel release rates and fineness?

A.Test samples, submitted by Stuller, have met the current EU requirements for nickel release rates. However, Stuller does not guarantee that all products manufactured in white gold will achieve the same results, as condition of sample can affect test results.

- All karats offered in white gold are alloyed to EU specifications for gold fineness. 14 Karat is alloyed at .585 gold content.

I don't know enough about Stuller to know if they offer settings in 18 x1 but if they do, I'd be tempted by that because that's even closer to what you'd fine in the UK. The UK doesn't use 14K gold. My lovely American 14K ring (I'm American living in the UK) now has normal upkeep done with 18K gold. It's not a big deal, but I'd prefer if it were all the same metal.
Found it! www.stuller.com/products/build/122969/12582863/?groupId=194062#/mounting-options

Hi, thanks for your input. I don't quite know what you mean when you say "The UK doesn't use 14k gold" as several jewellers over here offer it for a variety of rings and other pieces. Also, I've been led to believe that 14k is a better choice as it is more resistant than 18k. I'll certainly ask about the virtues of switching to 18k X1, though. Thanks again!

 

[Rhea]

14k X1 white gold definitely the way to go with this regardless then?

Yes. The UK and rest of the EU do not use nickel in their white gold. The US does. The alloys are closer to that that you'd find in a UK high street shop. Even if your girlfriend doesn't have a nickel allergy it'll be easier for repairs, resizing and any work done in the future if it's closer to the used norm.

From Stuller, www.stuller.com/articles/view/x1-white-gold-faqs/
Q. Does meet the European requirements for nickel release rates and fineness?

A.Test samples, submitted by Stuller, have met the current EU requirements for nickel release rates. However, Stuller does not guarantee that all products manufactured in white gold will achieve the same results, as condition of sample can affect test results.

- All karats offered in white gold are alloyed to EU specifications for gold fineness. 14 Karat is alloyed at .585 gold content.

I don't know enough about Stuller to know if they offer settings in 18 x1 but if they do, I'd be tempted by that because that's even closer to what you'd fine in the UK. The UK doesn't use 14K gold. My lovely American 14K ring (I'm American living in the UK) now has normal upkeep done with 18K gold. It's not a big deal, but I'd prefer if it were all the same metal.
Found it! www.stuller.com/products/build/122969/12582863/?groupId=194062#/mounting-options

Hi, thanks for your input. I don't quite know what you mean when you say "The UK doesn't use 14k gold" as several jewellers over here offer it for a variety of rings and other pieces. Also, I've been led to believe that 14k is a better choice as it is more resistant than 18k. I'll certainly ask about the virtues of switching to 18k X1, though. Thanks again!

That's great! Could you tell me where? I'd really like a 14K ring and I can find someone to cast it, but I can't seem to purchase it off the shelf. I do see that the Assay office does have a 14K hallmark, but I just can't find a 14K ring in shops. My 14K ring was sized using 18K so maybe now I can change that too.

 

[smarti51]

14k X1 white gold definitely the way to go with this regardless then?

Yes. The UK and rest of the EU do not use nickel in their white gold. The US does. The alloys are closer to that that you'd find in a UK high street shop. Even if your girlfriend doesn't have a nickel allergy it'll be easier for repairs, resizing and any work done in the future if it's closer to the used norm.

From Stuller, www.stuller.com/articles/view/x1-white-gold-faqs/
Q. Does meet the European requirements for nickel release rates and fineness?

A.Test samples, submitted by Stuller, have met the current EU requirements for nickel release rates. However, Stuller does not guarantee that all products manufactured in white gold will achieve the same results, as condition of sample can affect test results.

- All karats offered in white gold are alloyed to EU specifications for gold fineness. 14 Karat is alloyed at .585 gold content.

I don't know enough about Stuller to know if they offer settings in 18 x1 but if they do, I'd be tempted by that because that's even closer to what you'd fine in the UK. The UK doesn't use 14K gold. My lovely American 14K ring (I'm American living in the UK) now has normal upkeep done with 18K gold. It's not a big deal, but I'd prefer if it were all the same metal.
Found it! www.stuller.com/products/build/122969/12582863/?groupId=194062#/mounting-options

Hi, thanks for your input. I don't quite know what you mean when you say "The UK doesn't use 14k gold" as several jewellers over here offer it for a variety of rings and other pieces. Also, I've been led to believe that 14k is a better choice as it is more resistant than 18k. I'll certainly ask about the virtues of switching to 18k X1, though. Thanks again!

That's great! Could you tell me where? I'd really like a 14K ring and I can find someone to cast it, but I can't seem to purchase it off the shelf. I do see that the Assay office does have a 14K hallmark, but I just can't find a 14K ring in shops. My 14K ring was sized using 18K so maybe now I can change that too.

Most - from H. Samuel to the likes of Rox, Ernest Jones, etc. - have 14kt white gold options on their websites. Some independent jewellers near where I stay have 14k white gold pieces available as well.

So, you also reckon X1 is the best option for me/us then?

 

[Rhea]

No plain court fit wedding rings but it's a start.
www.hsamuel.co.uk/webstore/l/jewellery/#/webstore/l/jewellery/material%7C14ct+white+gold/
www.rox.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/index/?form_key=hXmrccZzhhd4esUg&limit=60&p=1&q=14ct
www.ernestjones.co.uk/webstore/l/jewellery/occasion%7Cwedding/recipient%7Cher/category%7Crings/#/webstore/l/jewellery/category%7Crings/occasion%7Cwedding/recipient%7Cher/material%7C14ct+white+gold/

It's so much more than I could find years ago when the assay office attempted to mark my imported ring as 9 carat gold since it didn't meet the 18k standard. This is great!!!

I'm indifferent to X1 or not. I thought it was closer to what you'd find in the UK and since you're importing and are unlikely to ship it back and forth to have work done, I thought 18 X1 would be closest to what you had. I don't like that my ring has been retipped and resized in different metals. But with the greater ability to get 14K over here than I'd previously found I'm sure you can also match whatever alloy and colour you require. I'd always thought the EU had strict limits on the amount of nickel allowed in jewellery and that was a good reason for getting the X1 over the more common US white gold with nickel, but I might be wrong on that too. www.whiteflash.com/about-diamonds/faq/what-type-of-metal-alloys-does-whitflash-use-1049.htm and www.naj.co.uk/en/consumer/consumer-help-advice/precious-metal-nickel-hallmarking/index.cfm

 

[MollyMalone]

* * * I've been led to believe that 14k is a better choice as it is more resistant than 18k. I'll certainly ask about the virtues of switching to 18k X1, though. Thanks again!

Quick fyi, smarti: Stuller 122969 is not available in 18K X1; here's a screen shot of the drop down menu section re the higher K gold alloy options:

Like others in this thread, I will encourage you to order the mounting in the 14K X1. In fact, I don't see a reason not to do so:
* 14K X1 is more budget-friendly than platinum (which seems to be the other metal you've been seriously considering), which means you can comfortably afford the diamond you prefer.

* it's a pretty, white metal in and of itself (one of my tourmaline rings is a 14K X1 mounting) -- see the photo PSer cflutist thoughtfully provided in this thread, showing a 14K X1 band with a platinum band and a 18K band:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/is-18k-white-good-more-tinted-then-14k-white-gold.206629/#post-3760959#p3760959']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/is-18k-white-good-more-tinted-then-14k-white-gold.206629/#post-3760959#p3760959[/URL]

* scroll past the photo in that same thread & you'll see the enthusiasm for the 14K X1 voiced by cflutist (who is definitely not a casual, jewelry purchaser) and KarlK, who is in the trade.

I'd much rather have Whiteflash handle the whole shebang, but if you'd prefer to have a UK jeweler order the Stuller mounting & set the WF diamond, there are now jewelers in the UK who are Stuller retailers. Use this locator page:
http://www.stuller.com/locateajeweler/

 

[smarti51]

* * * I've been led to believe that 14k is a better choice as it is more resistant than 18k. I'll certainly ask about the virtues of switching to 18k X1, though. Thanks again!

Quick fyi, smarti: Stuller 122969 is not available in 18K X1; here's a screen shot of the drop down menu section re the higher K gold alloy options:

Like others in this thread, I will encourage you to order the mounting in the 14K X1. In fact, I don't see a reason not to do so:
* 14K X1 is more budget-friendly than platinum (which seems have been the other metal you've been seriously considering), which means you can comfortably afford the diamond you prefer.

* it's a pretty, white metal in and of itself (one of my tourmaline rings is a 14K X1 mounting) -- see the photo PSer cflutist thoughtfully provided in this thread, showing a 14K X1 band with a platinum and a 18K band:
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/is-18k-white-good-more-tinted-then-14k-white-gold.206629/#post-3760959#p3760959']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/is-18k-white-good-more-tinted-then-14k-white-gold.206629/#post-3760959#p3760959[/URL]

* scroll past the photo in that same thread & you'll see the enthusiasm for the 14K X1 voiced by cflutist (who is definitely not a casual, jewelry purchaser) and KarlK, who is in the trade.

I'd much rather have Whiteflash handle the whole shebang, but if you'd prefer to have a UK jeweler order the Stuller mounting & set the WF diamond, there are now jewelers in the UK who are Stuller retailers. Use this locator page:
http://www.stuller.com/locateajeweler/

Thanks MollyMalone, that photo of cflutist's is extremely helpful. And, yeah, kind of what I was saying to Rhea was that everything I've read so far points me towards 14k rather than 18 anyway, with the X1 an added benefit (especially after reading some comments from that thread you provided the link to and elsewhere). I'm still awaiting the quotes from WF but I intend to, as you said, let them handle it.

The only thing I'd improve, if I could, is to get a bigger stone but I realise for my budget it isn't really doable. That said, I've seen photos of similar and lesser sized stones on the same size (4.25-4.5) as my girlfriend's and they look plenty big on such petite hands.

So, yeah, basically ready to get this show on the road when I have the WF quotes back.

 

[Rhea]

kind of what I was saying to Rhea was that everything I've read so far points me towards 14k rather than 18 anyway, with the X1 an added benefit (especially after reading some comments from that thread you provided the link to and elsewhere). I'm still awaiting the quotes from WF but I intend to, as you said, let them handle it.

I hear you on the 14K, no problem with that, I clearly have a 14K ring. I was simply trying to point out the practical side of having a ring which is as close to what the standard is in the country where you're resident - both in the quality of metal (14 v 1 and the alloy (nickel v non-nickel). You never know when you'll want a matching wedding ring, eternity ring, or need work such as resizing done and all that being accessible for purposes of matching the colour of the metal and the way rings wear against it each other makes it so much easier. It sounds like you have a great source for 14K in the UK and while I haven't found a classic court fit despite all my googling this afternoon you've given me renewed hope.

Hopefully WF gets back to you soon! You've chosen a lovely combination.

 

[MollyMalone]

* * * while I haven't found a classic court fit despite all my googling this afternoon you've given me renewed hope.
Hopefully WF gets back to you soon! You've chosen a lovely combination.

Rhea, Wedding Rings Direct -- based in the UK -- has oodles of classic court bands in 14K white gold! Click on whichever of the plain versions shown on this page appeals most to you; a new page will open that will give you the ability to choose from a variety of further options, e.g., profile, finishes, diamond embellishments:
https://www.weddingrings-direct.com/plain/14ct-white-gold/court?s=213

Although primarily an Internet retailer, WRD has a showroom in Brighton & a "Try Before You Buy" sample service:
https://www.weddingrings-direct.com/help-and-info/sample-service

 

[smarti51]

Resizing shouldn't be an issue (assuming I have her size correct) and neither should the colour if I'm going with the X1, correct me if I'm wrong? But let's say she does want/need to resize at some point - are you saying you don't think I could get it done easily enough over here without sending it over to WF to have it done officially? Unsure if that option voids anything with them but aside from that.

 

[Rhea]

* * * while I haven't found a classic court fit despite all my googling this afternoon you've given me renewed hope.
Hopefully WF gets back to you soon! You've chosen a lovely combination.

Rhea, Wedding Rings Direct -- based in the UK -- has oodles of classic court bands in 14K white gold! Click on whichever of the plain versions shown on this page appeals most to you; a new page will open that will give you the ability to choose from a variety of further options, e.g., profile, finishes, diamond embellishments:
https://www.weddingrings-direct.com/plain/14ct-white-gold/court?s=213

Although primarily an Internet retailer, WRD has a showroom in Brighton & a "Try Before You Buy" sample service:
https://www.weddingrings-direct.com/help-and-info/sample-service

Thank you very much! They didn't come up in any of my searches today. I'd been checking all the known high street jewellers and linked the ones OP mentioned, but nothing and can never find them in Hatton Garden when I look. I'm always looked at as though I have 2 heads and offered 9ct, 18ct, platinum or palladium. No 10ct or 14ct like I was used to at home. All my jewellery is a mixture of 9ct pendants on 14ct chains and likewise. It's been annoying because the colour and reworks from different alloys show over time. I just wanted the OP be aware what they might be walking into. But no more - Yippee!

 

[Rhea]

Resizing shouldn't be an issue (assuming I have her size correct) and neither should the colour if I'm going with the X1, correct me if I'm wrong? But let's say she does want/need to resize at some point - are you saying you don't think I could get it done easily enough over here without sending it over to WF to have it done officially? Unsure if that option voids anything with them but aside from that.

My fingers changed size in the 13 years since I got engaged I had problems, both with matching a wedding ring, and later an anniversary ring as well as getting my engagement ring resized. My wedding ring is from the US even though it's plain 14k, my anniversary ring is a 18ct from the UK and the colour of the gold is different, and my engagement ring is 14k with retipped and resized in 18ct.

My only concern was that since I hadn't found 14k over here, in the UK easily, that you would have the same problems I've dealt with. It's not a huge deal, just something to consider, but you and Molly have sussed it out. So after years of mis-matched rings I'm heading back to my jeweller to see if I can get a matching resize and hoping to replace my abused wedding ring with a new court fit one. I have too much metal showing in my wedding set to appreciate the unmatching rings I have! They look like CFlutist's rings at the moment!