Colored stones in darker metals?

[Bex]

Has anyone set colored stones in dark or oxidized metals? I have a blue spinel that is much darker that I expected, and I was playing with the idea of embracing the deep color and setting it in an equally dark metal. Leaning towards east-west a really simple claw prong setting. In my head, it's the jewelry equivalent of dark denim and a black cashmere sweater. Simple and understated, but flattering and chic.

What would my options be? Do any precious metals come in a gunmetal finish? Or would I have to go with oxidized metals, where the finishes don't seem to be very permanent. Any PS-loved vendors that have done anything like this?

Here's a few inspiration pieces I found. I'm definitely not looking for something in the Leon Mege price range, but he does some striking work with oxidized platinum!

One of Leon's Paraiba rings:


Another Leon, with rubies and a fancy orange diamond


Moonstone and oxidized silver from Flying Fox Arts:


Aquamarine from Greenwich Jewelers:


Mimi So Jewelers Tsav ring:

 

[Lady_Disdain]

Black rhodium plating will probably last longer than an oxidized finish on a ring. The oxide layer is quite thin and wears way quickly. This looks good on a textured finish (where the high points get shiny and the recessed areas stay dark) but not on a smooth shank.

There is a medium grey gold/palladium alloy but it isn't very common (and a bear to work with).

An alternative would be to look to alternative materials, like ceramics and titanium, and have a metallic bezel or head riveted to it. Of course, the design will make or break this idea. Etiene Perret has been doing a lot of work using high tech ceramics and Hans Meevis has quite a few mixed metal items.

 

[pregcurious]

LD, thanks for your reply. I learned a lot! Could a layperson maintain the oxidation with home chemicals?

 

[ChrisA222]

This is my dark Spinel, which shifts from grey-blue to purple. I had it set in oxidized Sterling Silver.

I wear this ring about three-four times a week, and after six months there has been some loss of the oxidation. My jeweler anticipated this and gave me a bottle of the oxidation solution. If only I could find it!! Id say it has lost about 20% of its finish. I haven't been in a rush to re-apply because I think it still looks cool the way it is.

Nevertheless, I am really happy with how it looks. This is the pic of when it was new.

 

[SouthernSunset]

I have a spess/red garnet and pearl ring with blackened silver. I love it. I'm not sure how it was blackened because I bought it before I knew anything about different metals really. It gets a ton of compliments though and is my favorite cluster style ring. It has a very vintage sort of feel.

 

[sonyachancs]

when I was setting my ER, my jeweler was promoting the use of black gold - which I supposed is the black rhodium Lady_Disdain was talking about. she had a couple of pieces with the same look - usually with a colored diamond halo, so I think it'll defo work with colored stones.

I thought it was too gothic/modern a look for me though, and that the black metal looks great in a modern style design, but in classic styles like three-stones or traditional halos, I feel it contrasts a bit too much. but if you're going the sweater+denim route (dress-wise), it would be a nice complementary accessory! I dress very old-time lady-like most of the time, so it didn't go with me.

 

[dk168]

Boone can make rings in black zirconium, and I love the look of this ring:

http://boonerings.com/stone-settings/sculptedheart.htm

DK