Naaame that style! A terminology thread.

[Circe]

There are so many kinds of gorgeous vintage jewelry whose names are lost in the mists of time. This thread is inspired by another where somebody finally explained what to call line rings! So I'm hoping this can be a place to bring any weird old thing you've seen more than once and wondered about.

I'll begin! What do you call those rings with invisibly set graduated calibre-cut centers and diamond borders from the Edwardian-verging-on-Deco period? Here are two examples, both from La Vielle Russie:

 

[Circe]

We're at glorious 100 for views ... I'm open to theories! And to additional questions ... c'mon, if ever you've wondered about the difference between fishtail prongs and illusion settings, line bracelets and tennis bracelets, this is the place to say!

 

[bunnycat]

I have no idea but they are beautiful!!!!!

What I have always had some confusion on is the "paste" terminology in reference to antiques. SOmetimes it's referred to as glass paste, and some people have explained it to me as rock crystal. I guess I could encompass all of that depending on the era.

 

[Circe]

I have no idea but they are beautiful!!!!!

What I have always had some confusion on is the "paste" terminology in reference to antiques. SOmetimes it's referred to as glass paste, and some people have explained it to me as rock crystal. I guess I could encompass all of that depending on the era.

Heh, I have the sneaking suspicion that for a lot of people, if it's shiny, clear, and not a diamond, it must be paste (or, worse yet from a historical perspective, a rhinestone). Insofar as I understand it, "paste" is a very dense kind of glass developed in the 1780s by a guy named Strasser, which is why it's also commonly referred to as strasse. I think it had a very high lead content, and was most typically foiled to increase brilliance, back in the day, whereas rock crystal was celebrated for its liquid translucence (i.e., "pool of light" pieces). But, yeah, era tends to be the easiest dividing line ... I'm sure a few great craftsmen were still making paste jewelry in the 50s, but for the most part, then the correct word is rhinestone! Drives me nuts when people get it backwards and call Georgian gems rhinestones and KTF paste ...

(I, uh, may be a little obsessed with this topic - I collect paste jewelry, and keep meaning to start a paste thread one of these days.)

 

[gemmyblond]

Here's another (present-day) tidbit on strass(e)...I have a friend who's very into following Chanel accessories/costume jewelry. She was at a Chanel boutique recently and saw a jacket that apparently had some clear paste 'jewels' sewn on as decoration at the collar. When asked, the Chanel SA told her that this was 'strass(e)', and gave a very complete explanation of the term and its history etc.
Interesting that this term is still used there today to refer to paste or crystal-like decorative trim. Just thought I'd share that as it certainly broadened my vocabulary when she told me! (And it was also the first i'd heard it used on a non-jewelry item, but I guess that makes sense, too.)

 

[bunnycat]

I have no idea but they are beautiful!!!!!

What I have always had some confusion on is the "paste" terminology in reference to antiques. SOmetimes it's referred to as glass paste, and some people have explained it to me as rock crystal. I guess I could encompass all of that depending on the era.

Heh, I have the sneaking suspicion that for a lot of people, if it's shiny, clear, and not a diamond, it must be paste (or, worse yet from a historical perspective, a rhinestone). Insofar as I understand it, "paste" is a very dense kind of glass developed in the 1780s by a guy named Strasser, which is why it's also commonly referred to as strasse. I think it had a very high lead content, and was most typically foiled to increase brilliance, back in the day, whereas rock crystal was celebrated for its liquid translucence (i.e., "pool of light" pieces). But, yeah, era tends to be the easiest dividing line ... I'm sure a few great craftsmen were still making paste jewelry in the 50s, but for the most part, then the correct word is rhinestone! Drives me nuts when people get it backwards and call Georgian gems rhinestones and KTF paste ...

(I, uh, may be a little obsessed with this topic - I collect paste jewelry, and keep meaning to start a paste thread one of these days.)

I have some Edwardian earrings I bought as paste. They are date stamped from the early 1900's and sterling silver. I love them! I just don't know what is IN them, IYKWIM!

I'e also seen (and tried on) some really pretty (and incredible expensive) Georgian earrings described as pastes. But I think they were a either some sort of foil back crystal or something. I have since forgotten the particulars on them.

 

[bunnycat]

I have plenty of questions, and almost no answers!

Another thing I have wondered about is the terminology for some antique pieces called hoop rings, or boat rings where the stones sit in a little inset area. They seem to be used interchangeably???





So then, would my Victorian opal ring also be called a half hoop???? (Circe-yep, hubby got the bands from you....) Other rings I've seen that look similar to it are called hoop rings...

 

[Circe]

Here's another (present-day) tidbit on strass(e)...I have a friend who's very into following Chanel accessories/costume jewelry. She was at a Chanel boutique recently and saw a jacket that apparently had some clear paste 'jewels' sewn on as decoration at the collar. When asked, the Chanel SA told her that this was 'strass(e)', and gave a very complete explanation of the term and its history etc.
Interesting that this term is still used there today to refer to paste or crystal-like decorative trim. Just thought I'd share that as it certainly broadened my vocabulary when she told me! (And it was also the first i'd heard it used on a non-jewelry item, but I guess that makes sense, too.)

REALLY! That is so cool - I know couture goes high-end on materials, but that's a cut above for trim. Good for them! Justifies the reputation considerably in my eyes ....

I don't suppose she took pictures ...?

 

[Circe]

I have no idea but they are beautiful!!!!!

What I have always had some confusion on is the "paste" terminology in reference to antiques. SOmetimes it's referred to as glass paste, and some people have explained it to me as rock crystal. I guess I could encompass all of that depending on the era.

Heh, I have the sneaking suspicion that for a lot of people, if it's shiny, clear, and not a diamond, it must be paste (or, worse yet from a historical perspective, a rhinestone). Insofar as I understand it, "paste" is a very dense kind of glass developed in the 1780s by a guy named Strasser, which is why it's also commonly referred to as strasse. I think it had a very high lead content, and was most typically foiled to increase brilliance, back in the day, whereas rock crystal was celebrated for its liquid translucence (i.e., "pool of light" pieces). But, yeah, era tends to be the easiest dividing line ... I'm sure a few great craftsmen were still making paste jewelry in the 50s, but for the most part, then the correct word is rhinestone! Drives me nuts when people get it backwards and call Georgian gems rhinestones and KTF paste ...

(I, uh, may be a little obsessed with this topic - I collect paste jewelry, and keep meaning to start a paste thread one of these days.)

I have some Edwardian earrings I bought as paste. They are date stamped from the early 1900's and sterling silver. I love them! I just don't know what is IN them, IYKWIM!

I'e also seen (and tried on) some really pretty (and incredible expensive) Georgian earrings described as pastes. But I think they were a either some sort of foil back crystal or something. I have since forgotten the particulars on them.

OOoo, I would love to see your earrings! I think I WILL start that paste thread, maybe this weekend. Odds are good that the foiled back ones were the real deal - more often than not the very old settings and the highly refractive stones with the closed backs are textbook. Where it gets confusing for me is separating the later pieces! Unfoiled ... is it paste or is it rock crystal or is it Czech glass? The settings are the only tells! I have a pair of unfoiled pastes that I adore, but it took me YEARS to find ones that were authentic ....

 

[Circe]

I have plenty of questions, and almost no answers!

Another thing I have wondered about is the terminology for some antique pieces called hoop rings, or boat rings where the stones sit in a little inset area. They seem to be used interchangeably???





So then, would my Victorian opal ring also be called a half hoop???? (Circe-yep, hubby got the bands from you....) Other rings I've seen that look similar to it are called hoop rings...

Boat rings are new to me - that's a piece of info I'm squirreling away! As for the hoop/half-hoop rings ... this is just my impression on the basis of an awful lot of international auction catalogues, but I think the British tend to use that to refer to any plain band. So a solitaire is a hoop ring, what we'd call a five-stone or seven-stone or half-eternity is just sort of compacted into being a half-hoop. Anybody from across the pond want to weigh in to correct me? Goodness knows I always appreciate it!

P.S. - Humana humana ... does that opal have a thread? I LOVE IT.

 

[Circe]

In other news ...

 

[arkieb1]

Hi,

I have seen these named and I am racking my brain trying to remember what the heck it was....

I've seen your other style ring (the boat ring) where the stones are isolated called bridge rings (meaning they are up on a bridge) and a heap of other names too....

 

[Circe]

Hi,

I have seen these named and I am racking my brain trying to remember what the heck it was....

I've seen your other style ring (the boat ring) where the stones are isolated called bridge rings (meaning they are up on a bridge) and a heap of other names too....

Heh, it was actually your comment about the line rings in Niel's thread that made me start this one! I figured when we have experts around ....

If you think of it, I'll be delighted: right now I've been reduced to flipping through my old catalog collection, hoping someone somewhere thought to include a reference!

 

[arkieb1]

Hi,

I have seen these named and I am racking my brain trying to remember what the heck it was....

I've seen your other style ring (the boat ring) where the stones are isolated called bridge rings (meaning they are up on a bridge) and a heap of other names too....

Heh, it was actually your comment about the line rings in Niel's thread that made me start this one! I figured when we have experts around ....

If you think of it, I'll be delighted: right now I've been reduced to flipping through my old catalog collection, hoping someone somewhere thought to include a reference!

Yep guilty. Although I don't profess to be any type of expert.... I told her she was looking for a line, row or band ring (they have many other names as well). Mostly the dealers call what you have pictured generally "Art Deco" rings, but I seem to remember seeing a French name for rings that look like them ages ago and my brain is failing me remembering it.... I am hoping it will be one of those things when I am doing something totally non related when the word will pop back into my head or I will see it somewhere and go yep that was it...

 

[bunnycat]

I have plenty of questions, and almost no answers!

Another thing I have wondered about is the terminology for some antique pieces called hoop rings, or boat rings where the stones sit in a little inset area. They seem to be used interchangeably???





So then, would my Victorian opal ring also be called a half hoop???? (Circe-yep, hubby got the bands from you....) Other rings I've seen that look similar to it are called hoop rings...

Boat rings are new to me - that's a piece of info I'm squirreling away! As for the hoop/half-hoop rings ... this is just my impression on the basis of an awful lot of international auction catalogues, but I think the British tend to use that to refer to any plain band. So a solitaire is a hoop ring, what we'd call a five-stone or seven-stone or half-eternity is just sort of compacted into being a half-hoop. Anybody from across the pond want to weigh in to correct me? Goodness knows I always appreciate it!

P.S. - Humana humana ... does that opal have a thread? I LOVE IT.

Thanks Circe!!

No, I never made a thread on it. I've had it about 20 years or so and it's such a quirky item it's kind of one of those things that I always guess I'm the only person to like them.

 

[Circe]

Nope, you are in EXCELLENT company (or so says my own high opinion of myself, anyway). I adore opals, and I adore (squared) settings like that ... Lately I've been eyeballing an awful lot of similarly set emerald rings, trying to convince myself I could wear a soft stone without wrecking it. I'd LOVE to see more of/on it ....

 

[Circe]

Hm ... I've seen two people call them lozenge rings now, but the term seems to be applied with equal or greater frequency to rings of any sort with an oval-verging-on-kite center, vertical or horizontal, non-specific to the graduated channel-set calibre. So frustrating!

 

[arkieb1]

Hm ... I've seen two people call them lozenge rings now, but the term seems to be applied with equal or greater frequency to rings of any sort with an oval-verging-on-kite center, vertical or horizontal, non-specific to the graduated channel-set calibre. So frustrating!

I LOVE your ruby ring!!!! It's very cool. What did they call it an Art Deco ring? They seem to lump them all into the same category even if they are earlier than Art Deco....

 

[minousbijoux]

Circe: thanks so much for starting this thread. I hope it eventually becomes pinned, so that it will always be available. I love antique jewelry, particularly the art deco period. I am forever wanting to know the proper terms for what I end up euphemistically referring to as things like "those squiggly lines," or "that area where they carved away - like its been etched." Brilliant idea to create a small glossary of terms.

As to your descriptions, Circe, I'm afraid to say that I am bereft of the ability to visualize, so I soooo would like to see your paste.

 

[Circe]

And now I'm looking for a target ring for a holiday present for my best friend, but searching "target ring" is bringing up limited results. What else do people call the diamond solitaires with the colored stone centers? Like Dulcinea's beautiful new one? Like the one in the image below, though I'm trying to find a ruby one ....

 

[gemmyblond]

Hey Circe - I'd call that a target ring, too -- but sometimes searching using descriptive words has worked for me if I come up dry otherwise.

So if you search for "calibre cut ruby halo", there are a couple of good prospects that come up. The first one in particular that came up when I google-image searched it was from an estate dealer in LA that I'm a little familiar with (altho haven't purchased anything from myself). FYI.

Hope you find a nice one!

 

[arkieb1]

I agree widen the search out a bit use French Cut ring, Calibre cut ring, or try Ruby halo, Sapphire halo, emerald halo, Art Deco ring, Art Deco style ring. Dover usually have a lot of reproduction ones at O.K prices, or they could probably make you one;

http://www.doverjewelry.com/product-category/rings/all-rings/

Or you can buy a halo like that from Ebay for O.K $$$$$ and hunt for a centre stone for it.

 

[Circe]

Lang? I love their styles, but their prices leave me a little cold (excepting the really spectacular pieces). On the other hand (I know, I know!) I came across this DiamondZone repro on eBay, and I'm wondering if anybody here has ever gotten one ... methinks I'll just ask before I place an order.

 

[gemmyblond]

Nor sure if you're thinking I meant Lang's in SF, but if so....no, that's not who I was referring to. When i image-searched those words, the first image that came up was of a very similar ring to the one you pictured but with rubies, and it was from an LA dealer named Trumpet & Horn. (I tried to cooy and post the photo, but it wouldn't let me.) i've seen their pieces on 1stdibs and elsewhere, and i understand that one of the owners has been in the antique/estate and reproduction business for many years.

I went to their site directly (trumpetandhorn.com) and clicked on engagement rings, then ruby. They have 2 ruby/dia target rings are similar to the one you posted: the Stonewall and the Southport.

I've never purchased from them and haven't had personal contact with them. Just have seen their pieces online and have heard of the owner.

Hooe that's helpful.
P.S. Yes, i agree w you about Lang's and pricing there, btw.

 

[IE_Princess]

Occasionally I see them referred to as "bullseye" rings.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-ART-DECO-56ct-EUROPEAN-CUT-DIAMOND-RUBY-BULLS-EYE-ENGAGEMENT-RING-1920-/261344032015?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd951750f

 

[arkieb1]

How about Fay Cullen they do O.K priced sapphire ones and I think that is where dover gets them from.... they would probably make you a ruby one and they don't look too bad.

 

[chrono]

I don't like Fay Cullen's return / refund policy. You will only get a store credit for items under $2K, which means you must get another piece of jewellery from them instead of taking your money and buying from elsewhere. There is a $200 restocking fee for items greater than $2K. All customized pieces are non-refundable and non-returnable.
http://www.faycullen.com/faqs.php

 

[ariel144]

And now I'm looking for a target ring for a holiday present for my best friend, but searching "target ring" is bringing up limited results. What else do people call the diamond solitaires with the colored stone centers? Like Dulcinea's beautiful new one? Like the one in the image below, though I'm trying to find a ruby one ....

i searched ruby halo but they are target style which is the correct term for them.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-ART-DECO-2ct-EUROPEAN-CUT-DIAMOND-RUBY-HALO-ROUND-ENGAGEMENT-RING-1930-/261344032063?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd951753f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ANTIQUE-DECO-1ct-DIAMOND-75ctw-RUBY-HALO-BLACK-ONYX-PLAQUE-PLATINUM-RING-1930-/161164518204?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258627633c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESTATE-ART-DECO-50ct-OLD-DIAMOND-SOLITAIRE-RUBY-HALO-PLATINUM-ENGAGEMENT-RING-/161164515488?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25862758a0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ESTATE-2-90ct-EURO-DIAMOND-RUBY-HALO-PLATINUM-SOLITAIRE-ENGAGEMENT-RING-/161164518142?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item25862762fe

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ART-DECO-1-63ct-LIGHT-YELLOW-EURO-DIAMOND-OCTAGON-RUBY-HALO-ENGAGEMENT-RING-1940-/261344032114?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cd9517572