Vintage E-ring Setting advice

[unmet145]

Hi all,

So I'm making the plunge and nervously asking for my girlfriend's hand in marriage (I'm not nervous about what her answer will be, but just in general).

She has mentioned several times that she doesn't like diamonds and loves emeralds (Yes I know they are soft, and no, another kind of stone won't work---she is set on her birthstone and I'm happy to oblige). I also know that she is the type of person to really like a unique piece with some history behind it, so I think a vintage ring is really the way to go. So, I've been furiously doing my homework while at work, mostly here on this wonderful site.

I have found that there are some but not that many vintage emerald rings, especially ones that aren't a 3 piece with diamonds flanking the center emerald. Therefore, I decided to get a vintage setting separately, and put an emerald into it. I went around Boston to several jewelers and only one had a good selection of vintage settings. The store has been around for 80+ years and has great reviews on yelp

The jeweler said that in my case, I should chose the setting first and then find a stone to fit it. So I found a setting (see below) and it's in great condition 1920's art deco platinum with intricate filigree on the side and about 8 single cut tiny diamonds around the top. To my untrained eye it looks great and I was quoted a price of 3,500 for it which includes some restoration, cutting the hole a bit bigger to make the stone fit and putting new prongs in, and embedding the stone into it.

The question I have is, I know that prices vary greatly but is this in a reasonable ballpark of what a vintage setting should go for? is there any sort of price discount that I could reasonably push for? The stone is quoted at 2k putting the whole thing at 5500. Do Jewelers haggle over price of vintage rings and if so how much?

Any advice on this ring our about the way I have gone about looking for this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

[nowicanseethemoon]

I've been looking at reproduction vintage settings from Single Stone, and based on the prices I've seen, it sounds like that's a good setting price - and it's very pretty. I don't know much about emeralds, so I can't help on that front. Does the jeweler believe your emerald will be safe (relatively) in this style setting?

 

[gemmyblond]

Hi unmet145 -- Congrats on your impending engagement! Sounds like you've made lots of progress on the ring. Here are a couple of thoughts for you to consider:

Most jewelers who carry/specialize in vintage settings are very open to negotiation (indeed, many expect it). Often, if you politely ask if they can do any better on price, you could expect to get 10-15% or so off pretty quickly. At many places (both high and low), that's almost a given in the antique/estate world. You can then decide how you want to proceed (make a lower offer, ask if they can include sizing/setting or whatever). It may be worth it to you to do a little looking at other vintage (or repro) settings (preferably in person) to get a feel for the market based on style and diamond ctw, and if it's genuinely of the period. Try to have in your head what you want to pay for the piece before you start negotiating, of course - even if that's just based on a little homework coupled with how much you like it and how unique and genuine you find it to be.

Which brings me to the next point - make sure that if you're buying a genuine antique/estate/vintage setting from the 1920s that it truly is one, and not just 'Art Deco style' or a 'genuine' reproduction. Any of these could be fine, just be sure you know what you're getting and that you get what you pay for.

As for the emerald -- I'm sure not an emerald expert, but I do know that almost all emeralds are treated: they're oiled or filled with some type of oil or a polymer. There are many different ones; you want to ask a few questions so you can understand how much this stone has been oiled (or otherwise treated), specifically what's been used, and how to care for it (as the oil/polymer can affect care and durability). The extent and nature of the treatment can greatly affect the value of the stone and the pricing. Again, treatment itself isn't necessarily inherently bad, as long as you know what it is, it's fully disclosed, you know how much has been done, are OK with it, and get what you pay for.

You probably also want to know where the emerald came from: Colombia, Africa, ? This, too, can greatly affect value as emeralds from each place look a bit different (color and saturation) and can have different types and amounts of inclusions.

I don't mean to overly complicate your decision-making; just pointing these few topics out as potential areas to ask about. It sounds like you're dealing with a well-respected, long-established jeweler, so that's a great start. They should be more than willing to answer all your questions and share their knowledge about both the setting and the emerald; the more confident you are, the better decision you'll make. Good luck on all this and congrats again! The mounting looks gorgeous and the emerald's a very pretty color -- whatever you end up with will be unique, meaningful and lovely.

 

[Hera]

For that emerald price I would want a gem lab to see what the treatments are on the stone. The setting is definitely close to retail as well. A lot of estate jewelers will negotiate on pricing.

Are you open to buying online because that might open your options.

If you are open to ebay, then that would open up even more. Here's some suggestions. I didn't eagle eye the listings so if you like one of them we can take a closer look:

I'd want to see the lab report and those side stones are so amazing. Upon closer inspection it's *possible* this isn't all original. If you like it, message the sellers and ask if this ring is a repro.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GIA-CERTIFIED-EMERALD-2-25CT-DIAMOND-PLATINUM-18K-RING-/120776537763?pt=US_Fine_Rings&hash=item1c1ed7b6a3

This one looks original: http://www.ebay.com/itm/LADYS-PLATINUM-ART-DECO-EMERALD-DIAMOND-RING-/200949117693?pt=US_Fine_Rings&hash=item2ec98032fd

A more inexpensive option. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Antique-Colombian-Emerald-Diamond-Engagement-Ring-Solitaire-Platinum-Sz-4-5-UK-I-/190880256732?pt=US_Gemstone_Engagement_Rings&hash=item2c715992dc

Here's the only caveat. Back in the these days, there was a surge in synthetic stones so I do like the idea that the first one has a lab report. The second one shows some inclusions, so it's probably not synthetic. I'd still get it checked out at least by an appraiser (I'd do that regardless). I didn't really evaluate the third option.

Even if you don't like these options, more will come and go on ebay. You could also go to the online antique dealers and see what they have. Many have good return policies.

Another idea and what colored stones lovers usually do is get the emerald first (because beautiful ones are hard to find) and then go and find the setting. Obviously, it'll be really difficult to do but if you could find an emerald in the 5.5mm, 6.5mm and 7.5mm size, your chances are pretty good. If you go that route, I would post in the colored stones section and get their assistance.

Good luck!

 

[SB621]

I already commented in the thread you put up on the CS forum but I think the setting you posted is a repo. It doesn't look like a true antique ring to me. Not a big deal if you want art deco inspired or don't mind having a reproduction ring but I wanted to make sure you understood the difference in case I am right.

Also I have found there is much less negotiation with repo rings.

 

[chrono]

Another idea and what colored stones lovers usually do is get the emerald first (because beautiful ones are hard to find) and then go and find the setting.

He has already posted this in CS but I cannot agree more with Heraanderson to find the stone first, then the setting. A good coloured stone is difficult enough to buy on its own and by getting the setting first is putting a horribly painful and limiting constraint.

 

[minousbijoux]

This thread is upsetting in that a jewelry store that has been around for 80 years and has positive reviews and feedback should know what they are selling; whether a setting is a repro or original. I would love to find an original art deco setting, but I would not know how to tell the difference and this kind of (hopefully) inadvertent mistake makes me scared to even try.

 

[Marina87]

This is a gorgeous setting! Excellent job picking it out. I'm sure she will LOVE it!