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Having Clothes Made

seaurchin

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 2, 2012
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Does anyone do this?

I always think I might learn how to sew and I take a stab at it now and then but that's all. I realized that more than that, I would like to have a wider range of clothing options than what I find in the stores or online. I'm thinking about buying fabric and etc. and patterns and having a seamstress (seamster?) make them for me. My everyday clothes are pretty simple.

I already ordered one piece of fabric just because it's so pretty but I really don't even know if it would work best with shorts or a top or neither but I probably will when I see it in person. I've also had a hard time finding patterns that seemed right. So, I guess I'd need more help than just handing over fabric and patterns to be made.

Thoughts, experience, tips?
 
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My daughter had a bespoke dress made for her by an Etsy seller. She was really happy with what she got and she is thinking about either learning to sew (Ha! not likely) or having more things made (much more likely). There are a number of sellers on Etsy doing this. Search for Bespoke or Custom Made.

I grew up in a sewing household. My immigrant father and mother were a tailor and a dressmaker, respectively. The Singer machine in our living room was often out and in use. They made most of my clothes and some of my soft toys when I was a child. Dad even made a coat and some leather purses for me! I was well dressed, but never in style! Our home was full of the functional items he made, many of which I still have. I also have many of his spools of thread and my mother's pincushion. Their Singer console is long gone, sold in their estate sale, but I have one of my own.

You might think that would result in my being an avid sewer, but I've actually only done it when I needed to. Having 2 experts breathing down my neck was not conducive to growing a fondness for it. It's not a relaxing hobby for me, and I am so unfussy about clothes and so unconcerned about style that off-the-rack clothing is more cost effective anyway. Needless to say, I am not volunteering to make my daughter's clothes! :mrgreen2:
 
I sew sporadically whereas my best friend of 48yrs sews her wardrobe almost exclusively. Sewing is a lot of work and can be extremely expensive - just like buying quality clothing, quality material is pricey. Admittedly the US has more well priced variety than Australia but once you add the pattern, notions, fabric and time it can become pricier then just buying ready made.

In my experience you also need to have the space to spread out and work freely without having to pack up / set up ie have a dedicated area. In my first house when I was single I had a sewing room and it was fantastic. Now it annoys me that I have to use the dining area. My bestie has a dedicated space which allows her the freedom to come and go.
 
If you have a pretty decent budget you probably could get at least a capsule wardrobe made since you say your typical pieces are simple.

I come from sewists. One of my good friends is a tailor and has run her own shop for 30+ years and has branched out in the last decade to an entire “university” of sewing. I helped her out for a few months here and there a few years ago and she and her staff do amazing work. She also pays an actual living wage and charges thusly. Her alterations begin at $27 for a simple hem. She did custom men’s suits and shirts for a long time but got out of both that and bridal due to them becoming cost-prohibitive. People just aren’t willing to pay for a professional’s time and materials anymore.

I have a B.S. in Textiles/Apparel/Merchandising. I took garment construction classes as well as deconstruction along with many other related classes. There were labs. We burned fibers to understand how to identify them and their characteristics. I also began working in retail (apparel mostly) when I was still in high school and all through college. I took 5 years of French. I read Vogue every month starting at 12 years old, then subscribed to WWD and DNR throughout college (trade magazines). Total immersion without living in NYC/Paris/Milan. I have a sewing machine and I’ve made about 3 things on it, none of them clothes. Lol

It is really tough to find quality makers who don’t charge an arm and a leg these days to make custom apparel unless you live in a large city and know/have an established relationship with someone. Honestly the last time I got a good deal on alterations even was in the Chicago suburbs when our alterations lady at work gifted me altering my wedding gown (minimal—she sewed in bra cups and took in the waist by a tiny amount, nothing major). She was the sweetest Polish first gen lady named Helen and I wish I could go back in time and hug her again and give her a bunch of cash.

What is it you’re seeking that you haven’t been able to find online? I’m not a straight size and I can usually find whatever I'm after with good search terms. Maybe if you tell us more what you’re looking for we can help you find better RTW options! I would be happy to help.
 
I haven't made my own clothing since the poodle skirt for a play in 8th grade (although mine had a Scottish terrier instead of a poodle).

I did recently have a custom suit made by Laura Gaelic on Etsy, as I wanted something unique, but still professional for interviewing. Her original design used two different black/dark fabrics, but alas I'm allergic to wool, so since I had to go custom anyway, I had it made in a dark purple herringbone cotton fabric. The suit is fully lined and fits very well. My day to day work wardrobe will likely be jeans and a t-shirt once I find a job in the cybersecurity/information security world, but I'm just tickled to pieces over having clothing that fits like a glove and makes me feel powerful. I'll definitely buy bespoke/custom in the future for special occasions or special pieces.

Sorry the mirror was dirty when I took the photo, but I just love it!
PowerSuit.jpg
 
Once when in the military, and stationed overseas, I had a silk shirt custom made.
When stationed in another country, I had some fine leather dress shoes hand made for me.
Very nice stuff!

Here in USA? ... Nope.

Maybe when/if I retire I'll get a quality sewing machine and learn to make my own clothes.
That sounds very interesting.
 
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breifly in between hardwear store jobs and out of nessesity i worked in a fabric store
your local may very well have a list of local seamstressess
some will be very good
some may not be
but its a good place to start
in person is a good idea because the sewer can be sure of your measurments

i was lucky my employee discount on sewing machines and overlockers (you guys in the US call them a funny name i cant remember) was cost plus tax so i took sewing night classes at the local high school, the best thing i made were curtains
and im an ace at making cat blankies ;)2
 
Can't sew as I am never tidy enough to have space for it. Even bought a sewing machine to try and sold it in the end for a song. :roll2:

I have had formal work and evening wear made for me since the late 90s as I could not find anything that fits off the peg.

Yes they are more expensive, however, they fit me perfectly and made me feel good when I wear them, a huge confidence booster.

I researched for the styles that suit my shape/build, being an Apple shape, plus size and short, and have pieces made in different fabrics and finishes.

I don't follow trends in fashion and have not gone clothe shopping for years, after an embarrassing episode in the late 90s when I needed something for a wedding. I could not find anything that fitted me in a large department store in the normal sections for ladies. So I wandered into the maternity section to have a look.

The helpful and cheery SA came over and asked when I was due, and I said I was not pregnant, just looking for something that would fit me for a wedding. I could feel her awkwardness, bless her.

I stopped clothe shopping and had formal wear made for me since then.

DK :))
 
I'm not an expert, just someone who wants to sew clothes...lol

So you want to make your own clothes? I say go for it! If there are sewing guilds in your area, they're great to start. Classes? Even better.

What you need to get out of your head is how much something costs off the rack because they are made as cheaply as they can make them, even the higher end stuff. And they are not made to your body. They use an average size based on what they want to present as an average and roll with that.

Sewing for yourself is going to be more expensive than the basic stuff on the rack. I will not be as expensive as couture if you know how to get the right fabrics inexpensively but price approaches the cost of some of the higher end RTW off the rack at times. your fabric cost comes into play here and of course, how much time you take to make it.

Also sewing isn't as quick as you think. You do gain experience yes and you get quicker at it, but the right type of prep...that takes time.

Something that is made by an experienced seamstress will cost money especially when the dress/suit/whatever it is is made to your particular measurements. Just as you get paid for time at your job, they also should be paid for theirs, then there's also the cost of materials that they provide. They will never get the same deals that bigger design houses get on fabrics, please keep that in mind.

I have had clothing made for me and they can be expensive but very worth it, this is especially true for suits! But that also prompted me to learn to make clothes for myself! A tailor/seamstress that pays attention to you, your body, your wants, is worth their weight in gold because they know how to fix any type of fit issue, even ones you didn't know you had. they absolutely deserve to make living wages.

When you make your own clothes you begin to really understand what I said above. Its real work. Its not always easy work and you do have to think through everything. When you make your own clothes, you are making true made to measure clothing, even when starting from a basic pattern!.

I do recommend basic patterns at first. Nothing too complicated with a lot of seam lines.

Folks in the US and have access to a Joann Fabrics can take advantage of the 1.99 sales for the big 4 (or 5) if they go in person. This weekend is Simplicity. Buying on the web is higher. And buying from Simplicity.com is on sale but not like what you see in store.

If you go with Indie brand patterns like ClosetCore, https://closetcorepatterns.com and Cashmerette https://www.cashmerette.com/ Paper patterns are on par with big 4 prices. Not in store Joanns sale pricing but website pricing.

http://curvysewingcollective.com/ this is a place to start for those who are curvy.


I do recommend looking up sew a long for patterns that you choose to make. there's going to be plenty of them out there, just have to see which ones you want to look at.

In the UK, Minerva https://www.minerva.com/ They sometimes have free downloads of patterns with fabric purchase.

if you want to start with free patterns, Then Mood has plenty of them for free but they're PDF patterns, https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/ They also have some instructions and at times a sew a long. They do of course suggest mood fabrics. Just know that mood is sometimes expensive per yard.


Fabric is a whole subject by itself.

I love fabrics. this is probably my main goto fabric place currently https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/ and the reason why is how they describe their fabrics and the price per yard is not too terrible.

They do a lot of deadstock so sometimes the fabrics are not there when you go back. its their business model so is what it is. And yes you can get designer fabrics from them. Few weeks ago they ran through a bunch of Versace Fabrics. I had to sit on my hands...lol They sold a lot of Liberty of London fabrics.

For fabrics, its best to start with stuff you can see and feel in person, but, you absolutely need to learn the properties of fabric if you're going to order online. Always look at what the pattern you use suggests. don't deviate from that until you understand fabrics more. The right fabric can make or break your project.

No matter what, quality fabric is king. Additionally, quality doesn't always mean expensive.

Also sewing machine and additional tools. A decent sewing machine helps a lot. You don't need super expensive. Brother is good, Babylock is good, Janome/Elnas are good. Berninas are good but very expensive. Bernettes , not so much its a name but thats another story. Juki's are also good (they're excellent in the industrials!)

As you gain experience you may want to change machines and thats totally normal. But in the very beginning, keep it super simple if you don't already have a machine at your disposal. A mechanical machine that has maybe 14 stitch selections is fine. You're not going to start off sewing leather and heavy canvas, or even jeans.

Buy notions as you need them, based on the pattern your sewing. Unless you plan on sewing a lot, no need to buy in bulk. (its handy but yeah don't do it)

Overlockers are great but not always beginner friendly. They're amazing if you're doing knit fabrics (I don't do a lot of knit) also when you want a quick and dirty seam treatment, they rock. They're not a must have though.

Do feel free to ask me any questions because this post is only scratching the surface and I wrote a freaking book...lol. I'm not the only maker here for sure, there's lots of others with amazing talent (way more than I have!)
 
Thanks, everyone so far.

Arcadian, wow. Thanks! I will look at the sites you suggested for patterns.

Below is the fabric I ordered online (3 of them). It's just what grabbed my attention the most but I don't even know if it's right for summer clothes. So yeah, I should have gone to a store in person.

I have no idea about fabric quality. As far as price, I don't care that much either way.

I want to make a simple pair of capris/shorts and a simple top with some kind of easy short sleeves. No buttons or zippers because they are way beyond me.

I also ordered some elastic for the waist but maybe a drawstring waist would be easier?


18224436.jpg

Novelty Cotton 2yd Precut Cotton Fabric
  • Number of Pieces: 1
  • Size of individual pieces: 2 YD
  • Content: 100% Cotton
  • Imported
  • Width: 44 Inches
  • Care: Machine Wash Gentle Cold, Non Chlorine Bleach, Tumble Dry Low, Cool Iron

And
Dritz 3/4" Knit Non-Roll Elastic, White, 3 yd
Item #: 10107514
QTY: 1
Here is my "sewing machine" but I could get a better one if it matters.
sewing machine.jpg

The pattern I like the most so far is "vintage" and only comes in larger sizes anyway, as far as I can find. So I don't have a pattern yet.
s-l1600.jpg


I try this every few years, then get mad and throw it in the trash haha. But it does look easy enough that maybe I could do it myself instead of hiring someone. It would be great to be able to make simple clothes myself. Advice, please?

ETA: IF this will work, is white thread good?

ETA2: I think I would rather try to do it myself than pay someone after all.
 
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Thanks, everyone so far.

Arcadian, wow. Thanks! I will look at the sites you suggested for patterns.

Below is the fabric I ordered online (3 of them). It's just what grabbed my attention the most but I don't even know if it's right for summer clothes. So yeah, I should have gone to a store in person.

I have no idea about fabric quality. As far as price, I don't care that much either way.

I want to make a simple pair of capris/shorts and a simple top with some kind of easy short sleeves. No buttons or zippers because they are way beyond me.

I also ordered some elastic for the waist but maybe a drawstring waist would be easier?


18224436.jpg

Novelty Cotton 2yd Precut Cotton Fabric
  • Number of Pieces: 1
  • Size of individual pieces: 2 YD
  • Content: 100% Cotton
  • Imported
  • Width: 44 Inches
  • Care: Machine Wash Gentle Cold, Non Chlorine Bleach, Tumble Dry Low, Cool Iron

And
Dritz 3/4" Knit Non-Roll Elastic, White, 3 yd
Item #: 10107514
QTY: 1
Here is my "sewing machine" but I could get a better one if it matters.
sewing machine.jpg

The pattern I like the most so far is "vintage" and only comes in larger sizes anyway, as far as I can find. So I don't have a pattern yet.
s-l1600.jpg


I try this every few years, then get mad and throw it in the trash haha. But it does look easy enough that maybe I could do it myself instead of hiring someone. It would be great to be able to make simple clothes myself. Advice, please?

ETA: IF this will work, is white thread good?

ETA2: I think I would rather try to do it myself than pay someone after all.

simplicity is great
if you see Burda, they are great and very fashinable but do not buy them till you have made a few things as they do not come with seam allowances
also if you buy fabric instore the ticket with the fabric care instructions should still be attached to the roll or you can ask

i would start with a simple knee length-ish skirt
it doesnt take much fabric or days of effort
dont spend a fortune on fabric for your first effort but buy nice fabric you will want to wear

also if you guys wear PJ's in your house
they are fun for practice and useful and easy to make and you can practice with buttons and seams

stretchy fabric is hard to sew at the beginning because it moves a bit

bewear some fabric can be not the standard width, especially in sales
always check the width and what your pattern requires and buy a bit extra incase you have to match a pattern (like wallpaper)

buy good quality cotton (thread) as the cheap stuff breaks

always buy thread that matches the fabric
white will show up and if your seams arnt staright when you are learning it will show up like dog's ......s

i am sure your sewing mamchine will be fine
 
OK so let me start with your machine;
This is not going to be a great apparel machine. here's some suggestions though:

https://www.kenssewingcenter.com/janome-new-home-nh60-computerized-sewing-machine.html

This is a freaking killer machine. I'm shocked at the price honestly but hey....
Anyway you can make a lot of stuff on this. Denim? No. Pants out of cotton or linen? yes.

if you didn't want to spend a lot, then this one

Thats a really good machine that can do all sorts of materials. Its not the best for slinky materials like silk or light weight challis. Might be problematic with gauze but those can be a pain in the rear for anyone starting out. Its a classroom model so not a lot of hours and its got a good price on it. This will do light weight denim. Its a good machine honestly. I'd pick this first to be honest.

I've bought from Kens before, they're a good place to purchase from.

Either of these is better than that little guy above.

Next: Lets look at your fabric. Its cute but what you've purchased is quilt cotton. All is not lost though! plenty of times I've made clothing with quilt cotton.
20201228_175334.jpg
its quite boxy! My dad loves this shirt and wears it a lot though...lol

But you have to know that sometimes it dosent lay the way you want and it will kinda stick out from the body. its a meaty fabric and hard wearing, perfect for a beginner to start with though. Many dress patterns in the 30's 40's and 50's use quilt cotton actually! You can beat the crap out of this fabric and it will be perfectly fine.

Before you go nuts on fabric though, find a pattern and find out how much fabric you really need.

for something super easy, I recommend something like these;

Do not get hung up on a size. You want to go by your measurements then find the corresponding number. don't get hung up on your size in ready to wear versus pattern sizing because the 2 will make absolutely no sense...lol

In addition to all of this, you need to pay attention to something called design ease and wearing ease. Some designs will have a lot of ease built in based on how the design was drafted. Again, the shirt above has a lot of design ease.

This shirt on the other hand, does not. This is made from cotton lawn.
20221215_175121.jpg

The finished size of a pattern can tell you a lot about how its going to fit.

You have to have wearing ease for woven fabrics, 2-3 inches in the arms, chest area, 5-6 in the hip area) otherwise, you will not be able to really move

Knit is totally different and in many cases unless its a stable knit, will have negative ease. but thats another post for another day)

The finished size of a pattern can tell you a lot about how its going to fit.

You have to have wearing ease for woven fabrics, 2-3 inches in the arms, chest area, 5-6 in the hip area) otherwise, you will not be able to really move

Knit is totally different and in many cases unless its a stable knit, will have negative ease. but thats another post for another day)

If you want to sew with cotton that has a nice hand (feels good), and lays well to the body, then you want something like poplin, lawn, sateen, twill for bottom. Quilt cotton absolutely but will depend lots on the pattern (you can make great Bermuda shorts with quilt cotton!)

Any thread is fine. I sew with all types of thread from the cheap to the silly expensive. Keep it basic. Coats and Clark is perfectly fine to use. When sewing cotton I like to use a cotton thread. You can use a cotton poly core thread, thats up to you.

For pants /shorts: Bottom weight fabrics, suiting fabrics (yes they come in cotton) some times stretch fabrics as well but beware of these right off the bat!

For dresses and skirts: Shirt weight is fine. Quilt cotton depending on the dress type.

If you're making a skirt or dress, shirt weight is fine as long as its not super form fitting.

https://www.fabricmartfabrics.com/cotton-fabric/ Right now, the entire site is 60% off.

Also linen. Linen is not hard to sew (it can be pricey though)

Cotton, Linen, whatever, prewash your fabric in the same manner that you take care of it afterwards.

Prewashing does several things; It removes sizing put on during the manufacturing process, it removes nasty stuff from being stored, shipped, and what have you, and rids the fabric of excess dye. Trust me you want to get rid of that.

You always want to prewash your fabric and this becomes very true with natural fabrics. Let them shrink before you make clothes with them because you won't be able to get into them afterwards.
 
simplicity is great
if you see Burda, they are great and very fashinable but do not buy them till you have made a few things as they do not come with seam allowances
also if you buy fabric instore the ticket with the fabric care instructions should still be attached to the roll or you can ask

i would start with a simple knee length-ish skirt
it doesnt take much fabric or days of effort
dont spend a fortune on fabric for your first effort but buy nice fabric you will want to wear

also if you guys wear PJ's in your house
they are fun for practice and useful and easy to make and you can practice with buttons and seams

stretchy fabric is hard to sew at the beginning because it moves a bit

bewear some fabric can be not the standard width, especially in sales
always check the width and what your pattern requires and buy a bit extra incase you have to match a pattern (like wallpaper)

buy good quality cotton (thread) as the cheap stuff breaks

always buy thread that matches the fabric
white will show up and if your seams arnt staright when you are learning it will show up like dog's ......s

i am sure your sewing mamchine will be fine

Burda in the US comes with seam allowances (usually!) Def. not beginner friendly but they can have some bangers.

Also agree on white thread.

Apparel fabric these days can be pretty wide. Quilt cotton is usually 45" across. Apparel fabric (depending on some factors like its purpose how/where its made) can be anywhere from 20" to 70" wide. I tend to like 54-60" fabrics.

I didn't even get into interfacing because thats a whole other subject.
 
There used to be an amazing computer program a hundred years ago that made you measure approx 100 different parts of your body then it printed out the pattern to those measurements. It was from the US, cost me a fortune to buy and I lost in in one of our moves (it was on disc!) sadly. It was so great but I’ve never been able to find it online again.

I agree with discussions above about prewashing and colour matching thread - it hides any boo boos as well as looks better.
 
Thanks again, Arcadia, Daisys and Diamonds and HGar. I will definitely refer back to this thread in the future.

I might just try it with my children's sewing machine or whatever it is for now, then upgrade if I make it through this one project.

I finally found a couple of patterns on Etsy. It's so hard to find ones I like and I just don't feel like doing the PDF thing right now. Too many new things at once. (Thanks bunches for the suggestions, Arcadia!)

I will definitely wash the fabric before using and will get thread that matches the fabric better than white.

I ordered these two patterns:
il_794xN.4313670172_idw9.jpg


il_300x300.4160516819_eghb.jpg


Good with the fabric I ordered?
 
Have you thought about maybe making a simple caftan? (Or kaftan.) I had an artist who studied at YSL make one for a friend last year and then I had him make one for me. Hers was $480 and mine was $1250, although he gave me a deal and only charged me $800.

If you have Tiktok you can watch him work live. He’s Malcolm @kaftankulture. Here’s his Etsy store so you can see some of his work:


Another designer I follow is Byron Lars. He does an outstanding job of explaining fabric and drape and showing his work, so to speak. Years ago he collaborated with Anthropologie with the wildly popular Carissima sheath dress. He makes some fabulous things but like I said he also shows the thought process behind his creations. I’m not saying you should aspire to this level of skill but it’s helpful to have some inspiration!


(That link works, not sure why the preview is weird. If it doesn’t work he’s @inearnestofficial)
 
Burda in the US comes with seam allowances (usually!) Def. not beginner friendly but they can have some bangers.

Also agree on white thread.

Apparel fabric these days can be pretty wide. Quilt cotton is usually 45" across. Apparel fabric (depending on some factors like its purpose how/where its made) can be anywhere from 20" to 70" wide. I tend to like 54-60" fabrics.

I didn't even get into interfacing because thats a whole other subject.

thank goodness for that !
i did google before i posted that because its been almost 20 years since i had that job but i am overjoyed to be wrong !
 
Thanks again, Arcadia, Daisys and Diamonds and HGar. I will definitely refer back to this thread in the future.

I might just try it with my children's sewing machine or whatever it is for now, then upgrade if I make it through this one project.

I finally found a couple of patterns on Etsy. It's so hard to find ones I like and I just don't feel like doing the PDF thing right now. Too many new things at once. (Thanks bunches for the suggestions, Arcadia!)

I will definitely wash the fabric before using and will get thread that matches the fabric better than white.

I ordered these two patterns:
il_794xN.4313670172_idw9.jpg


il_300x300.4160516819_eghb.jpg


Good with the fabric I ordered?

good luck and have fun
on line is good for convineance but i used to like going to the fabric store and looking through the big books of each brand of patterns
 
breifly in between hardwear store jobs and out of nessesity i worked in a fabric store
your local may very well have a list of local seamstressess
some will be very good
some may not be
but its a good place to start
in person is a good idea because the sewer can be sure of your measurments

i was lucky my employee discount on sewing machines and overlockers (you guys in the US call them a funny name i cant remember) was cost plus tax so i took sewing night classes at the local high school, the best thing i made were curtains
and im an ace at making cat blankies ;)2

Sergers!
 
Check the actual measurements on the pattern @seaurchin, because sometimes the sizing on the vintage patterns aren’t the same sizes as on today’s patterns. Women have got larger, and ‘dress sizes’ have stayed the same, but the actual measurements on modern patterns are bigger than they used to be.
 
Check the actual measurements on the pattern @seaurchin, because sometimes the sizing on the vintage patterns aren’t the same sizes as on today’s patterns. Women have got larger, and ‘dress sizes’ have stayed the same, but the actual measurements on modern patterns are bigger than they used to be.

You can have a bust form made to your size. You can also purchase a dress form that fits a range of sizes (my preference!)
 
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