2.8 N VS2 AVC need help on my custom setting

[cjchumphries]

Ok, so I have been on this site for a couple of years off and on but have never posted a question before. I have always been able to find the answers to my questions by listening to you all of you! Now, it's different because its no longer a "when I get my new ring, I could do this". Now I actually have to make a decision on what I want! So, Ive been married 13 years and my husband just bought me my upgraded diamond from Good Old Gold. I have consistantly browsed their site as well for my new dream diamond. I knew I wanted an AVC but couldn't decide on why one never just screamed my name UNTIL I began reading the forums here on warmer colored diamonds! I love my white princess cut that I got married with, but for the vintage inspired ering I want, I needed a warmer color. So the obsession began! I usually send an email of the new "it" diamond to my husband for his dream ring folder and he has all the info I have on what I want for my upgrade one day! Well, last week, he told me to order it!! And today, I received in the mail, a 2.8ct N VS2 AVC from my husband! It is fabulous and I am totally in love. Now the dilemma..... I pretty much know exactly what I want for my setting because I found it at an online estate sale and its to die for. Never-mind it was for a 7.9 ct diamond and the cost was 124,000.00 So, I am having mine custom made by Green Lake Jewelry. The only thing I am worried about now is the halo. My inspirational ring has a halo but if I had to choose, that would not be my first. I really love the look of a solitaire with an amazing basket. Im just not sure I am going to get the contrast I am going for without the halo. I love my warm diamond and I really want to play it up. I am incorporating yellow or rose gold filigree on the basket and using a yellow or rose gold stacking ring between the two bands as well. I was hoping that that along with the white melee would be a big enough contrast to make my color choice look purposeful. If I do go with a halo I was hoping to get half pointers or smaller so the halo is very small. I just don't know which way to go. The designer I am working with says she thinks the halo with definitely play up the color the best but Its up to me and I am just wondering if a ring of diamonds around the top of the basket will be enough?! I a hoping to get some of your input..... I am also wondering if I go with the halo if it will look as fabulous as I want it to when using Green Lake. I really liked the halo Dougsgirl had on her ring that Green Lake did, and am wondering if mine could or should be smaller. I guess Im just scared the ring without the halo won't give me the contrast but Im also scared that if I go with it I will wish I just went with the solitaire look since everyone has a halo these days and Im wanting something totally unique. Also, Im going with Platinum on the wedding set and a gold for the stacking band. HELP....Ill include pics! Thank you so much for anyone who has a little more insight to give. I really appreciate the knowledge you all could give me! Also, my ring is going to have all the engraving and milgraine on the shank...all three sides...with 1mm melee on the top surface of the shank. both wedding rings will be 2mm in width. I wear a size 4.5.

 

[cjchumphries]

here are a few more ideas from pictures

 

[4_cs]

No insight here but I love your stone.

 

[thecat]

Love your stone It's gorgeous Only you know what setting you really like and many here have had a few resets before settling on The One. Since you're unsure, can you get a cheaper halo setting and try it out before custom making one with Green Lake? I think some ladies used to buy halo settings from Lord of Gem rings for colored stones. Those settings aren't recommended for daily use but it's a good one to suss out your feelings on halo before commiting. Please have insurance on your ring if you do get a LOGR setting to try out since LOGR settings aren't recommended for daily wear.

May I know where the stacking rings are from? Love them too!

 

[Acinom]

You have a gorgeous stone! I love warm colored diamonds (I have a U-V color OEC myself).
Your beautiful stone will look gorgeous in a halo, but it does not actually need a halo. I would do the band with pave in the gallery and no halo. But it's a very personal choice and you need to be sure first.

It's an excellent idea to first choose a cheaper setting and keep looking around for your dream ring. I would not incorporate too many elements as your stone is gorgeous in itself.

 

[RandG]

Congratulations on an amazing upgrade project!

It looks like a Michael Beaudry mounting in your inspiration ring. His pieces are pretty intricate. Have you tried sourcing one of his mountings but without the halo? I've seen his mountings on sale for $2-3K at retail. Usually, as new collections are released, these older mountings, particularly if discontinued, are discounted by 50% or more.

You may also want to see if you can get a custom mounting from Beaudry, made to your exact specifications.

http://www.flash.beaudryinternational.com/#!retailers-&-events

Good luck!

 

[cjchumphries]

Thanks so much! I love it too!

 

[tyty333]

Any chance you could just put it in an inexpensive gold setting until you figure out what you really want? I think when you wear
the stone for a while it kind of starts to talk to you and tell you what it wants (so much for logical thinking ).

I love your inspiration ring. The halo is really tilted and may give you that little bit of contrast you want without being the
star of the show. Plus the basket is very pretty but you could change that to make it anything you want (add the rose gold etc.).
I wish you had posted a top view of the ring so we could see how much the halo stuck out. Plus a link to Dougsgirl's ring would
be helpful.

Did want to say that your stone is just gorgeous!

 

[Tourmaline]

How exciting! Enjoy!

 

[cjchumphries]

thecat..thanks for the idea of trying a cheaper setting, its definitely worth looking into. I definitely have insurance on this baby... and as far as the stacking rings, I found those on Etsy. I was planning on having one made along with my other two though, that way the gold will be match in color(mainly if I go with rose gold) I think on Etsy they run around 150-500 depending on which type you get.(diamond eternity or just engraving or something like that)

Acinom..thanks for the compliment as well, and for the suggestion about the gallery. I too am in love with a design for the diamond to really shine. And I am really wanting a pretty vintage look. I love my inspiration ring minus the cathedral arms and maybe the halo. So, I guess Im just trying to make that ring a bit simpler but incorporate a mixed metal look as well to compliment the color of my diamond. Thanks for the encouragement.

RandG..thank so much! I found my ring on his site and it is fabulous!! I will definitely check into seeing if they can do the custom work I am wanting. What a great eye you have. Thank you guys.. Ill keep it this thread up to date on the new info I find out. My Green Lake designer is supposed to be showing me a few sketches tomorrow, so I'll see what she comes up with as well! This is all very exciting but also a bit stressful to make sure I choose what I really want and will be happy with for the long haul!

Any thoughts on whether the rose gold would compliment the N color as well as yellow gold?? Im not a big fan of how the yellow looks against my skin, but I do want the mixed metal look, and I was surprised at how pretty the small touches of rose gold with platinum looked on me. Again, I just want it to compliment the stone... Thanks in advance for any experience or advice in this area!

here is the Michael Beaudry link
http://issuu.com/beaudry/docs/beaudry_catalog-_springsummer/3?e=0

 

[cjchumphries]

ok tyty33..so the halo on the inspiration ring IS very tilted and I love that about it, I would just prefer a thinner one. I think it has two rows of diamonds and I would prefer just one. Also yes the filigree in rose gold and my stacking ring in rose gold. So, the link to the Michael Baudry site has the ring in a top view!! Also, I am including a pic of Dougsgirl's ring. Hopefully that is fine with her I think Green Lake did a good job on her ring and it made me feel like they could prob give me what I was wanting in a halo.... And yes I know what you mean about the stone speaking to you. This one screamed at me through the GoodOldGold website!! Thanks for the kind words as well, I think it is a beautiful diamond and I am so grateful to have it!

 

[cjchumphries]

ok so to get the Beaudry custom setting I am looking at starting around $20,000.! Guess I will not be going that route! Hopefully Green Lake will have some beautiful sketches tomorrow!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Oh, lucky you! I love that diamond! Absolutely do a halo to accentuate the color. The diamonds on the basket would not do that at all. This is a setting I love from Single Stone. It has a beautiful gallery but I don't have a good picture.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

ok so to get the Beaudry custom setting I am looking at starting around $20,000.! Guess I will not be going that route! Hopefully Green Lake will have some beautiful sketches tomorrow!

I was very fortunate to get some Beaudry settings on closeout (and then found stones to fit them). I knew going custom with them would be $$$$$$$$$$$$$!!!

I think Caysie van Bebber would be a great choice for your ring if Greenlake doesn't work out. Check out her FB page under CVB Inspired Design.

 

[RandG]

Glad I could help! There are just certain pieces that stay with me and I won't soon forget that one.

Don't give up on the Beaudry mounting if you love it. It's been out a while, so you may be able to find it on sale. You just have to work the phones. Also, the person who bought your inspiration ring may have bought the stone only because if I recall, it was priced really well for its carat weight. I'd ask the vendor if they still have the mounting. It's worth a shot.

I'm pulling for you to get exactly what you want! You deserve it!

 

[cjchumphries]

RandG..I would love to have that Beaudry setting but I do still want a couple of changes from the original. (remove the cathedral arms-smaller halo-engraving on the surface of the shank-and most importantly, the gold filigree work on the basket) Thanks so much for the advise, and for pulling for me! I am too!!

diamondseeker2006..thank you so much for the compliment on my diamond. It is a beauty! I have really enjoyed learning from your posts in particular over the years! Thank you! So, I do believe I have decided on the halo. As long as I can get it at that angle and with the smaller melee I think I will LOVE it. And your ring from Single Stone is lovely! I was actually looking at one somewhat similar to that before I found the Beaudry ring! BUT oh my my....that ring melts me every time I look at it! I will definitely check out Caysie van Bebber if things don't look good with Green Lake.

So, updates....
I went to my jeweler today to have my finger sized since it has been 13 years! I decided to try on a few different settings that were mainly white with accents in rose or yellow gold. I felt the rose gold was really pretty on my skin, but I really don't like the color with my diamond as much as with the yellow gold. Still, Im not a huge fan of the yellow gold directly against my skin, but its looks fine to me as an accent. So, I guess that settles that. I'm going to use the yellow gold for the filigree and Ill just have to get use to the stacking band in yellow. Yay! One decision down! Now, on to another.....so my jeweler and I were talking about the setting I want, and I said that I was having it made in Platinum..well, he said that is great as long as I understand the pro's and con's of Platinum, especially with the engraving and milgrain that I want on my rings. He said that yes, it is durable but that Platinum kinda "smears" rather than looses metal when scratched. I totally understand what he is saying, but he said with the engraving it's not the same as a smooth shank that we can just polish up. He says it will actually make the milgrain look uneven over time and loose its shape. He showed me a ring he is currently resetting that looked pretty rough and it was a smooth shank. He said it was a personal decision but that white gold will thin over time but it will not bend and distort the engraving and milgrain like Platinum. Gold also has its con's but he just wanted me to be sure that I'm ok with it looking pretty weathered in a couple of years.

SOOOOO......this makes me really uncertain now. I was so sure of Platinum and have always loved it for the weight and the knowledge that it was considered the "BEST" metal to use. I don't mind the idea of patina because Im choosing a vintage looking setting. But now, I'm torn with wanting a vintage inspired piece but not wanting it to "actually look" like its 100 years old! HELP! I'm just not sure of what to do. I currently have a white gold setting and have no problem with it, other than having to get it re-plated every year. But I love the idea of having the substantial weight of Platinum, especially with the bands that are as small as I am wanting them. I don't want to sacrifice the look of the ring longterm, for the look and feel of it only in the beginning! SO, I guess my question is......if I choose to go with Platinum, am I pretty much doomed to having my rings get really worn and weathered verses going with the white gold?

I am so sorry for writing such long post but I just flat out don't know what to do....my jeweler doesn't want to persuade me one way or the other. He wants it to be my decision, but I am so confused!! Any help or pictures with detail work in Platinum over the years would be amazing. Thank you all so much!!

 

[Gypsy]

Platinum is softer. But it is also a much better metal for platinum. And I've seen platinum rings that are 50-70 years old that aren't 'smeared'.

I guess I would want to make sure that what he is describing isn't a function of his own workmanship, rather than a quality of platinum.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

This makes me wonder what alloy they are using if that was Greenlake discouraging you about the platinum. I have three Beaudry rings that have engraving and milgrain in heavy platinum and they are made from 900 platinum (which is 90% platinum and 10% iridium). That is a harder alloy than 95plat/5iridium.

All fine jewelry needs to be treated with care. I do not wear my rings when I am working with my hands such as when cooking or loading or unloading the dishwasher, etc. I have had a platinum Tiffany Legacy band with milgrain for 6-7 years and I am definitely not missing any milgrain. But I am careful not to grasp things like door handles, etc. tightly which could damage the milgrain.

Go with platinum. You'd need to treat it with care regardless of whether it was white gold or platinum, anyway.

 

[cjchumphries]

Gypsy..I was wondering the same thing. I have seen a few pieces of his work but they were all new so I couldn't really tell how they would hold up to normal activities.

Diamondseeker2006..this was NOT Green Lake that told me this. It was the local jeweler that we use for cleanings and repairs for my current rings and watches. He does seem really knowledgable and eager to make me happy. He also does custom work with CAD and the few pieces I have seen look good, but there isn't anything quite like what I want made. He carries Kirk Kara, which is beautiful, but I want a "deeper engraved look" if you know what I mean. I am somewhat torn with supporting him ( because he is local and I like him ) and using Green Lake because I feel they do this type of thing often. I have not heard back from my designer from GL with all the answers to the questions I am posing to her. She did message me today to let me know that she was working on my sketches today and just needed the morning to finish up and send a reply with the answers to all the questions Ive asked. One of which is what mix do you use for your Platinum. I also mentioned what my jeweler said and asked her to speak with whomever would be working on the Platinum to see what their thoughts were on the matter. I like my current setting in white gold, but the few I tried on from Kirk Kara in white gold, literally felt like I was wearing plastic! Also, he didn't carry the line in Plat. I just want the heft of Plat but really want to retain the detail work. I also want to wear this amazing ring I'll be paying for and I want to wear it everyday. I don't wear my current rings when I clean, shower, sleep, or workout, but I have 3 young kiddos and we all know what kind of day that can produce at times! I really do want to be able to pass it down generations, but I want it to look gorgeous and I don't want to have to have it rebuilt or anything in a few years. I guess I kind of expected my local guy to recommend the Plat, but he wouldn't say what I should do. He would only give his preference and why. That just made me nervous about the Plat. I guess. Ive never worn that metal before and my cousin has it and is now saying to get the WG! Ughh...Im positive you are more knowledgeable than my cousin though! I just want a peace and confidence about my decision ya know?! Thank you so much for your advise and Ill let you guys know what Green Lake has to say tomorrow. Im curious as well about what mix they use! And what they have to say about how it holds up to daily wear.

One more thing...my local guys says that with my inspiration ring having the halo angled the way that it is, that I really shouldn't use half pointers but one pointers instead. He feels like you wouldn't even see them that much and then there goes the contrast I am going for. My inspirational ring has a micropave halo with two rows, and I only want one row, bead set, to make it look dainty and not draw attention away from the main diamond. What thoughts do you guys have on this??

Again...thank you so much for the wonderful info and help!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I know exactly what you mean about wg looking not as detailed with engraving. Sometimes engraving is actually cast, and that is never as sharp as hand engraving. All I can tell you is that when you look at rings of this style made by top master ring makers such as Beaudry, Philip Press, Victor Canera, Steven Kirsh, etc., they are going to be made in platinum.

This does not address engraving, but it does give a good explanation of some reasons why platinum is preferred. I am trying to have all my good jewelry made in platinum at this point because I do want my pieces to be handed down.

http://www.victorcanera.com/platinum-vs-gold

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Here is everything you ever wanted to know about making a halo setting!

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-101-my-experience-in-making-a-harry-winston-halo.183473/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/cushion-101-my-experience-in-making-a-harry-winston-halo.183473/[/URL]

 

[cjchumphries]

diamondseeker2006..Thank you so much for the info on the Plat vs Gold and the halo's. It was all wonderful information and really made me feel better about my decision to choose Plat. I loved all the halo pics and descriptions and found, in photos, exactly what I had envisioned in my head. I have passed those along to Green Lake along with all the Plat questions as well as bluntly asking if they can produce the halo I want. One great thing is that when the ring is complete, if I don't love it for any reason, they will redo it at no charge. But hopefully they won't promise what they can't deliver.

So, I received my first round of sketches today!! They are fabulous!! She drew the two versions of the ring that I was debating in my mind. And it is pretty clear to me which looks best. I Love the halo version of my ring. It just looks more "vintage like"! To me anyways.... So I am set on that and now I just need to be very specific with how I want the halo to be angled and dainty. I do think she captured that in the sketches though, so that makes me feel good.

Now I just have to decide the following:

1. Which engraving I like best, (half wheat or scroll/swirl)
2. Should I stop 3/4 the way down the shank with that engraving, to allow for polishing (if I ever decided to do that) and less wear and tear to occur on the delicate milgrain/engraving? Or should I go all the way around on all 3 sides?
3. Should I add the cathedral arms back into the design? ( I read on here that sometimes with a thinner band ( 2mm) the main setting the stone is in, is not supported enough with only one contact point. Especially if the diamond is larger, it can bend or just be very dangerous for the diamond.) I also want the two other bands to be able to set flush against the e-ring.


Do you guys have any thoughts???

SO here are the pics of my first sketches.....

 

[cjchumphries]

ok so I received my second round of sketches today and Im pretty happy with them other than the diamond being set a bit high in the halo and Im not 100% sure about the double claw prong or if I want to have a single. ( I'm wondering if the single is a little more secure) I also found out that Green Lake uses 95/5 Platinum/ruthenium. Ive decided to go with the cathedral arms as it just looks amazing to my eye and Im tossing around the degree of the halo angle. Im thinking 30 degrees....a lot of the halos I like on here are made by VC and I believe he uses 25 degrees, but I feel like my inspirational ring has a greater angle than those. Plus, with the undercarriage being so decorative, I want the halo to be seen from the side view a bit more. But I don't want two rows or anything.

Another thing I have to decide on, is the melee size.....I originally wanted half pointers, then began to wonder if they would be too small and asked about one pointers. She says both will be a delicate halo but that most pics Ive sent are of 1mm stones (half pointers). She says the undercarriage will need to be like 3/4 pointers I guess because she said 0.8~0.9mm. Im wondering if it would be better to have the halo melee smaller than those on the band or the same size? Im thinking I have three options regarding this. Im fine with a band width of like 2.2mm, but I don't really want to go bigger.

option 1. I choose 1.3mm for the halo, and 1.5mm for the shank. That might mean I would need to go up to a 2.2mm band to allow room for the milgrain, or it might still be possible with the 2.0mm?

option 2. I choose 1.3mm for the halo AND the shank. Not sure how are we on band width with this option?

option 3. I choose 1mm for the halo and 1.3mm for the shank. Band width still ok at 2mm here? We'll see.

*on all options, I want the width of the halo to only be about .2mm wider than the melee. (1.2 for the 1mm melee halo/1.5 for the 1.3mm halo) I read that this will give you the least amount of metal exposed around the lip and edges of the halo.

She also informed me that all melee they use is E-F in color....I asked if the cut was taken into consideration because I do want a great cut melee..Ill wait to hear back about that.

Oh and the height on this baby is go to be 10mm off the finger! I had already expected it to be high, and decided that 10mm was my max! So, looks like this will definitely be grandiose!! So, as soon as I pick up my jaw after the estimate, I will start getting things rolling I guess. My design is off for the next two days so nothing will be happening, but after that, hopefully we can iron out the details to get things going.

If any of you have any thoughts on the few points I am uncertain of, I would love some feedback! You have been so helpful thus far and love having an objective eye and opinion on everything!

Thanks, you guys are awesome!
......here are the second sketches!

 

[cjchumphries]

second round of sketches....deciding on cathedral arms and engraving,

 

[Acinom]

The sketches look amazing!! I personally prefer the version with the cathedral shank as it looks so balanced.

Try not to overthink the angles and melee sizes: the designer should be able to advice on this based on a certain 'look' you are after.
What I would do though is to set the stone lower so that the girdle sits lower and (almost) meets the halo. It will be also more practical for everyday wear.

Regarding the engraving: you cannot go wrong here, but petsonally I like wheat engraving for the profile, especially since you have a design in the gallery. You could choose scroll/flower engraving for the underside of the shank, where there is no melee.

Some real life eye candy for you:

 

[cjchumphries]

Acinom..I was really happy with the sketches as well! And I too, prefer the ring with the cathedral arms.. I have also decided to go with Platinum and have the wheat engraving on the side of the shank and the curl/scroll on the face under the diamonds. Great minds I guess! I have also been VERY clear with my designer that I want the diamond to set lower in the halo. I want the seamless look, not one where the diamond floats above the halo. As far as the melee size and angle, she is going to give me a few options on the CAD so I can make a decision. There are just so many decisions to be made and I have a hard time just handing them over to the designer to make. I don't want to pay all this money and not get what I have always wanted. I have literally been planning this for YEARS!! Thanks so much for the feedback. It nice to know I am kinda on the right track. And your ring has beautiful design work on it!! Truly one that you don't see everywhere. That is really what I want....something that is unique to me and my taste...that my family can pass along after Im gone! Im so excited and nervous and ready!

Any other thoughts are welcome! Ill keep the post updated as I go along. My designer will be back in the office on Thursday, so hopefully we'll have some progress then. I got my quote so hopefully the next step is viewing the real drawings, and then the CAD.

Thanks so much.
Christy

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Oh, I love it with the cathedral sides!!! I like all of your choices so far!!!

 

[jazzandchocolate]

The sketches are absolutely gorgeous! I, too vote for the cathedral setting with the "lowered" girdle. Can't wait to see the finished ring (or more progress pics... whichever comes first! [WINKING FACE]

 

[Acinom]

Great choices
It will be a gorgeous ring. It's good to be on top of everything as you indeed have a chance to twist and tweak now and not afterwards. And it sounds like the designer gives you workable and beautiful options.

One thing to consider: I am currently working on a ring with ERD and it has also has some designwork in the gallery. Like yours, mine has an open 'curl' that could catch on things. I decided to leave it as is as for me it is not an everyday ring, but it is definitely something to consider.

Enjoy the process!!

 

[cjchumphries]

diamondseeker2006.. thanks so much! Im really happy with how its coming along as well!

jazzandchocolate..Thank you! And yes, I think the cathedral arms really tie it all together!

Acinom..Thanks for the kind words....and I hadn't thought about the filigree catching on things?!?! I'll have to ask the designer to make sure I don't have that problem. I sure don't want to eliminate it, because it is one of my favorite parts about the ring. I don't really want a solid basket look, but more of an open one where I can see my diamond and its color at every angle! Ill for sure talk to her about that though.

Thank you all for the support and sweet words. This is super exiting and I just want to get it right! My designer gets back to work tomorrow so hopefully we can get things going. I'll post another update when I learn more.

.....also, does anyone have any experience with the double vs single claw prong...I know I have to make sure they can produce a dainty and not bulky prong, but Im not having any luck finding out if one is safer than the other.

Thanks again you guys!!