please help with my first CAD

[blingymo]

I asked before about a ring I am having made for my daughter. It is my first custom project, and I need some feedback on the initial CAD. It is not complete yet - just a layout of the 5 stones to be bezeled in YG. The sizes are 2.85mm round diamond, 4mm trillion tsav, 5.5mm pearl, 4mm tsav, 2.85 diamond. Having NO experience with this, I would like to ask for some guidance. This is what I am thinking so far:

I think the bezel corners on the trillion look too sharp and might be better if they were slightly rounded. Also, the CAD does not show a bezel for the pearl in the center.

The ring size is 6.25 and I realize this is a challenge to fit the stones. I'm not sure how to say this - could it be wrapped around the finger less, creating a slightly straighter line across the stones? I guess this would make it sit higher? What would you suggest so that the stones show better and the diamonds don't end up hidden between fingers?

Anything else you see?

 

[GemFever]

Design help is tough... any chance they can make a wax version for you first? Making the stones sit straighter could help fit everything on the finger, but then the edges of the right might feel sharp and irritating.

I agree that the bezels for the trillions could be a bit more rounded. And the pearl is also going to be bezeled?

 

[blingymo]

Yes, the pearl is to be bezeled too - I'm not sure why it was not put in the CAD he (Daniel M) sent. He wants to check the layout before he gets too far. When we first started discussing the ring, Caren had mentioned that Dan could make it higher to fit it all on. I still want it rounded, but don't want the diamonds to get lost on the sides.

 

[GemFever]

In that case... time to play around with aluminum foil or paper cut outs. If Dan ends up raising the whole row of stones, make sure the metal on the sides is smooth and won't be scratchy. I love the frenchie ring Dan made for me, but the split shank sides are just a tad scratchy on the corners. They look great, but my comfort-loving soul would have preferred something rounder there. Maybe the same would be true for your daughter, especially if she will wear this ring a lot.

 

[GemFever]

Does the circle on the CAD represent a true-to-life size for the actual round part of the ring? In that case, it seems like the length of stones and bezels is really going to come pretty far down the shank.

 

[GemFever]

Although... now I'm thinking about the proportions of my frenchie ring. There are 6 stones, 3mm each, size 5 finger. So 18mm on size 5... and it doesn't go in between my fingers. In fact, it even feels a little too short, like there should be one more stone there to really cover the front of the finger. So maybe up to 22mm on a sie 6.5 finger might be good? Maybe the diamonds won't always be fully visible, but it might have a good and natural look anyway.

You should also check out MimB's thread on her custom 5-stone bezeled ring from DanielM. Her ring size is bigger, but so were her stones. The dimensions from her posts might be useful.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/tsavorite-custom-ring-via-danielm.188142/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/tsavorite-custom-ring-via-danielm.188142/[/URL]

 

[blingymo]

I think the circle does represent the true ring. There will be an open gallery in between the ring and bezels (I think). The ring is to represent her sorority, KD, so I am playing with a variation on that in the gallery. Not sure if that is cheesy and maybe she will grow out of that - in which case, I should just go with something swirly. (Excuse my dreadful sketches)

 

[blingymo]

Oooo - so big. Sorry - don't know how to change that.

 

[blingymo]

My drawing really shows a straighter row of stones than I think I want. I am going to look at the curve of MimB's ring.

 

[pregcurious]

Hi Blingymo. Are you set on the order of the stones, or could you switch the trillions to the ends? I think it would make the ring flow better, and may be more comfortable in terms of having the ring narrow where it rubs against the adjacent fingers.

 

[FrekeChild]

It's just a CAD, the trillion bezel won't end up looking like that, but you need to let him know that you want it more rounded in finishing.

Is there some significance behind the stones? Pearls aren't really ideal for every day wear, from what I understand. And is it a spherical pearl? I don't know that I've ever seen a round pearl bezel set. Do you have inspiration pics?

Do you have to use all of the stones?

While I'm asking questions, do you have two more diamonds to use? Or could they get them? You could put the pearl in the middle, the four diamonds on both sides of the pearls, and then the trillions on the outside. It might flow a little more. Like this...um, kinda:

<8O8>

vs

o<O>o

This isn't even really a complete CAD...so I wouldn't start worrying too much yet!

 

[JewelFreak]

I remember from your earlier posts that the stones need to be in that order, right? It looks somehow a bit awkward with the trilliants not on the ends. What do they represent -- deltas?

Have you considered not bezeling the pearl? I've never seen a bezeled spherical pearl either -- it might be hard to do & have it look good. The pearl in the center w/out bezel adds some variety to the design, which I like. Dan probably left it off on purpose, but you can discuss it with him. I like your idea for the gallery & that would be a way to raise the stones a bit.

I hope your daughter appreciates the thought & love that's gone into this ring! It's a real gift from the heart.

--- Laurie

 

[chrono]

I am not going to dissuade you from moving the trillions to the end because I recall advising that in your previous thread, so once is enough. I know you prefer it this way, and this way it will stay. Having all 5 stones going straight across is very antique in design. When doing this, the sides need to be high enough to support the stones, although the depth of the stones are typically low otherwise they will be banging everything.

1. If all 5 stones are straight across, will this fit comfortably on her finger? Put a ruler across her finger to gauge this. Given the over 20+ mm length when flat, possibly even 21+ mm, I don't know if how that will work out on a size 6.5. I have non idea if going flat will have the ends on the stones "overhang" the adjacent fingers.

2. I have never seen a spherical pearl bezeled - button and flat, yes, but not spheres.

3. The straight lined trillion bezels are too "harsh" and breaks the look too much. I would have them rounded as I recall the tsavorites have rounded curves. By this, I don't mean just the corners, but the entire outline should be convex, not just the ends.

Desgin wise, I typically stay away from anything heart themed because cute as it is now, when one gets older, it doesn't feel as age appropriate. Feminine curves, flowers, leaves or something organic is ageless.

 

[minousbijoux]

Everyone has made good points here. If you really cannot move the trillions to the outside, is there something you can do around them to make it flow better between the point of the tsav trillions and the bezeled diamonds? I don't know what that would be, but something there might help.

 

[digdeep]

I know there was an earlier thread on this proposed ring, but it seems like things have been somewhat circular and I may have missed a few points........here's what I would do (having absolutely NO skin in the game). I would consider the pearl being a button or coin pearl rather than a round pearl if you are set on bezels. I would drop the 2.35 diamonds and go with either smaller or more of those and encircle the whole thing. So in essence is becomes a diamond melee or bezel surround of the pearl and tsav's.
It would be changing the layout from long and narrow to this: <o> with a diamond surround. I think it would flow a lot better and be a more timeless ring.
And yes, if the OP is set on using those particular gems it will require metal manipulations............

 

[blingymo]

Thanks for all of your input. Yes, it has to be pearl, tsav, and diamond. Those are the stones that represent the sorority. Here is a link to the original thread, which shows the stones with my own pearl ring to get an idea of the look. [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/need-some-design-and-stone-help-please.191942/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/need-some-design-and-stone-help-please.191942/[/URL]

I did decide today that the KD would be something she would grow out of and to go with the swirly gallery.

In my last thread, a few people suggested putting the tsavs on the end. I agree that the point on the end makes sense, but the color balance then seems off. In my head, white center, white sides, then green on the ends seems too "heavy" on the ends and "empty" in the middle, if that makes sense. I really like Freke's suggestion with two diamonds on each side of the pearl, and then the tsavs, but that still leaves me with the too heavy on the ends color wise.

I will talk to Dan and Caren about changing to a flat pearl. I am also open to a different design (prongs for the pearl), but I though a bezel would be the most secure for the stones. However, if down the road, the pearl needs to be replaced, I guess it would be fairly easy to do with a prong set pearl, but would be pretty impossible in a bezel. (??)

I also like the idea of putting a halo around the pearl and tsavs to shorten it up, but I'm not sure Dan would be the one to do that (not sure - I don't recall seeing an example of his work with a halo). It would probably really drive up the price too, and I really need to have enough left over to pay her (out of state) tuition for next semester!!

What if I switched it up and used only one tsav as the center, two small pearls, then the diamonds? It feels more balanced colorwise and would shorten the length. Another option is to start from scratch and think of another design with those three stone types, but different shapes/sizes/design.

So confused.

 

[JewelFreak]

This is such a loving gift, and you've wrestled with the design for some time. You might think about this: her sorority may be of major importance to your daughter now, but in years to come that will change, though she will keep friends & wonderful memories from it. It is difficult to put those stones together without some awkwardness -- resulting in a ring she will wear while in college but may use less & less as time goes on. The trouble seems to be the pearl. 1. It is vulnerable to damage, so she can only wear it very occasionally; 2. It makes the ring hard even to clean; 3. Color & texture among pearls, tsavs, & diamonds aren't an ideal combination.

If you want to give her a lifetime ring, why not re-think it & do, perhaps, a birthstone ring? All kinds of possibilties come to mind -- yours & hers; yours, hers, & her father's; hers & any other stones she likes; hers & her siblings, if she has them. You'd be free to create a more graceful ring not strictly tied to one relatively brief period of her life, and use stones that can withstand more frequent use. Great heirloom to pass on to her child, too.

You've put so much thought & love into this project -- I know you want it to represent something close to her heart (& yours). In 10 or 20 years, instead of looking at it in her drawer with great fondness for your caring & work, she would be more likely to get more wear from a different design. If you're set on doing a sorority ring, that's fine; I'm only throwing this out for consideration & because I get the feeling you're not thrilled with what's possible with these stones.

--- Laurie

 

[GemFever]

Such a nice and thoughtful post, JewelFreak!

BlingyMo, I was never in a sorority so this is probably a dumb question... but you couldn't give her a sorority pendant, could you? It has to be a ring?

 

[blingymo]

Thanks JewelFreak. Yes, I am agonizing over this. She expressly asked for a ring with "emeralds" (I am going to use the tsavs instead) for Christmas because of the sorority connection. Having it be a lifelong ring is why I decided against the letters in the gallery - it can still be a nice ring without being a "sorority" ring later on.

I love your idea about birthstone - hers, mine, and her dad's - and guess what? Her birthstone is pearl! LOL June. Can't get away from that pearl!! Great idea for down the road, though. What if I used moonstone instead - how durable is that stone?

So, assuming that I am stubborn and want to stick with those stones, I was thinking about using the diamonds on the side in the gallery. Wonder if that will make it too high. Here is a ring I found with a pearl and trillions on the side.

 

[JewelFreak]

Pearl!! Ahahahaha! I have to laugh. She chose a difficult jewel month to make her debut -- the others are moonstone, as you say, and alexandrite. You can go broke finding a good-quality alexandrite, though it's more durable than pearl or moonstone. I adore moonstones -- they are often used in rings & look gorgeous, but also require TLC. I think a moonstone, being cabbed & not round, might at least not project up as much as a round pearl, & be a little less in danger of damage.

I like the example you put up. It looks more cohesive, makes more design sense. Diamonds on the gallery would be a nice addition. She only mentioned a "ring with emeralds" & you have wisely decided on tsavorites instead -- for more hardness? -- and both pearl & moonstone scotch that advantage -- you can still make her overjoyed without putting any outside meaning into the design, just giving her a lovely ring with tsavs & diamonds, say, or any other stones. Save the next one for a future baby's birthstone ring (hope it isn't June ).

The photo, though, is very nice & a much more fluid starting place, to my eye, at least. Take a big breath & keep toiling; you're getting there!

--- Laurie

 

[blingymo]

Gem, sorry I didn't see your post earlier. She wants a ring, but I had thought I would eventually add small earring and a pendant. Maybe I should skip the pearl in the ring and add it in earrings and pendant. Dan and Caren have also suggested some sort of bypass ring, and I am playing with sketches of that idea.

 

[JewelFreak]

Blingymo, that's a fabulous idea!! Can't wait to see what you all come up with.

--- Laurie

 

[blingymo]

I've been constantly playing with the shapes. Just came up with this. Putting aside the delicacy of pearls, what do you think of the design. I think I will have to use flatter pearls as you all suggested. The picture (sorry, I'm a terrible artist and not very precise) shows the trillions in the center, then the pearls (2), then the diamonds. I think setting the pearls "into" the trillions may save space lengthwise and make it fit better across the finger. What do you think?

 

[Enerchi]

Been following from the sidelines, but jumping in to say I LOVE your newly revised design above, w the 2 Tsav's being set "point to point" - that really enhances the Delta aspect and it may help protect the pearls a bit better, as they nestle next. I don't know about moonstones but would they be a hardier alternative? still giving the pearlescent look but maybe able to withstand wear and cleaning a bit better?

but all to say, *love* your new design option!! Has much better flow to it and looks like it would be much more comfortable to wear.

 

[derbygal]

I like the revision, as well. It almost looks Deco.

 

[blingymo]

Been following from the sidelines, but jumping in to say I LOVE your newly revised design above, w the 2 Tsav's being set "point to point" - that really enhances the Delta aspect and it may help protect the pearls a bit better, as they nestle next. I don't know about moonstones but would they be a hardier alternative? still giving the pearlescent look but maybe able to withstand wear and cleaning a bit better?

but all to say, *love* your new design option!! Has much better flow to it and looks like it would be much more comfortable to wear.

Thanks Enerchi. I keep playing with the shapes. I also thought the trillions show a K on the right side and the trillion for delta.

Dan is going to lay it out in CAD. I asked for "flat" pearls - probably coin pearls - so they don't stick up and it is all more flush. I must be driving Dan and Caren nuts, but they have been so patient and accommodating.

Derbygal - thanks for checking it out. I need all the suggestions I can get!

Do you think the pearls will look like bug eyes? I liked the white/green/white color scheme better - guess I'm a symmetrical gal.

 

[blingymo]

I just got new CADs from Dan and want to ask for your feedback. The pearl (not a full sphere) and tsavs stay on the top. The diamonds are now surprise stones. Swirly gallery. I know that a lot will be less bulky IRL than in the CAD, but here are my thoughts so far.

**The trillion bezels will be softened and rounded a bit on the points. I'm not sure about the presence or lack of presence of metal between the pearl bezel and the trillion bezel. Will this look weird with the trillion points sticking out? Does the pearl need to be a bigger diameter?

**The shank looks like it pinches in at the trillion point when looking top down. But from the profile the shank looks too thick as it gets closer to the stones.

**Does it look like the diamonds under the pearl are too far under it? Shouldn't they kind of come out even with the edge of the pearl bezel?

What else do you see? I have zippo experience with "reading" a CAD and with seeing where adjustments should be made.
Thank you!!!

 

[LD]

I haven't read your whole thread so please forgive me if I repeat something somebody else has mentioned

Firstly I'm very glad to see from your first CADs to your last ones that you've put the end stones under the pearl - that was a really good move and the ring looks much better now.

I have two suggestions however - feel free to ignore as this is purely a personal viewpoint!

1. Can you put a slightly bigger pearl in the centre - maybe one that is more oblong? These are not difficult to find and if you use one that's more oval, the trilliant bezel (where it meets the pearl) will be less hanging in the air and will meet the pearl bezel more.

If you can't change the pearl for a slightly different shape/bigger one

2. I would be tempted to fill in with metal from the tips of the trilliants where they meet the central pearl to the central pearl bezel. To avoid it looking too clunky, why not sink a tiny diamond gemstone into that area in a rubover setting ?

 

[blingymo]

Thanks so much for your help LD!

When you say an oblong pearl, do you meant set E-W and as wide as the side of the trillion? I also had wondered about filling in that "space" with metal. I am having a hard time visualizing that.

 

[pregcurious]

The half-dome pearl is definitely a good idea. It looks better aesthetically, and it is less prone to being hit.

Do you have your heart set on trilliants? What about pears? I think that might look better with a round center.