Quest Jewelers - tension set

[brellymom]

I have used Quest Jewelers in Northern Virginia for several projects and have nothing but good things to report. Pete is knowledgeable, creative, easy to work with, and REALLY GOOD! I am thinking of having them do a custom setting similar to the picture. Does anyone have any experience with them for a tension setting?

I'd wear it every day and put my 2.9 ct stone in it - any thoughts? I'm not hard on my rings, but don't want to invest in something like this if there is a huge risk to doing so!

Any thoughts would be most appreciated! Thanks.

 

[kenny]

Beautiful ring but FWIW it's not a tension setting.
That gold bar offers support between the two sides.
These are tension settings; notice that no metal bridges the sides, only the diamond.


We have had four diamonds tension set, and we love them.
They let more light in and out of the diamond at more angles.
After wearing one for a while it feels like the diamonds in other settings are in jail behind bars/prongs and bezels.
Also while well cut diamonds are optimized for a top view we usually view our diamonds from other angles, unless you flip up your wrist.
Tension settings let you enjoy your diamond unobstructed from a side view ... don't get into car accidents.

Tension settings are a breeze to clean.
There are four companies I know and trust to tension set a diamond, since special processes and alloys are needed to keep the diamond safe.
Steven Kretchmer
Niessing, a German company
Gelin Abaci - I've had fantastic customer service from this company.
Boonerings, they do titanium only but they are priced in the hundreds, not the thousands.

It seems reasonable to me that tension settings are safer than prongs.
Not only is more metal touching the diamond but the metal is very thick and nearly impossible to bend, unlike a prong.
Plus prongs have tips that can snag on clothing.
Here on PS we read about gals losing diamonds but having no idea how or when the prongs got bent.
Prongs can bend by day to day things like reaching into a purse or putting on a sweater.
Tension settings are so beefy that if you suffered a trauma sufficient to bend it open you'd know you it.
It would take so much force/impact that you'd probably end up in the emergency room with a smashed finger.

 

[chrono]

Kenny,
I've read the opposite about tension settings; I recall very clearly on PS many years ago that a poster lost her tension set diamond in the Opera House. The vendor (not sure which 4 company it is) said that even the force of clapping your hands is sufficient to pop the stone out. Mind boggling statement indeed! Many interesting comments followed, that's for sure.

 

[kenny]

Kenny,
I've read the opposite about tension settings; I recall very clearly on PS many years ago that a poster lost her tension set diamond in the Opera House. The vendor (not sure which 4 company it is) said that even the force of clapping your hands is sufficient to pop the stone out. Mind boggling statement indeed! Many interesting comments followed, that's for sure.

I don't know what to say.
I'm just expressing what seems reasonable to me.

It would be wonderful if we had an independent double blind scientific study of tensions settings vs. prongs.
All we have is hearsay on both.
That seller claiming clapping hands causes diamonds to pop out may sell only prong settings.
BTW, many other jewelers besides the four I listed makes tension settings, so perhaps it was made by a company that does not know what they are doing.
Every woman who has posted she lost a diamond from a prong setting may have actually been a shill for a company that tension sets.

No way to know.

I think every person should listen to all the information, think, reason and make up their own mind instead forming conclusions from one off reports, or anything I post.
IMHO all opinions are welcome.

 

[chrono]

The vendor is the maker of tension setting itself, only that I cannot recall exactly which one it is. Definitely not a competitor (prong set setting vendor). Let me see if I can dig it up.

ETA
It was Niessing.
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/lost-stone-from-niessing-tension-ring.17783/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/lost-stone-from-niessing-tension-ring.17783/[/URL]

 

[SMC]

I think tension settings are lovely. Just one thing to keep in mind - my jeweler told me that they can't be resized. You basically have to create a new one. If you're cool with this or you don't think your finger will change sizes before you get tired of the setting, you should go for it! I like the setting you chose, btw, it's unique.

 

[iheartscience]

I wouldn't trust a vendor who doesn't make tension set rings. My friend had a great local custom jeweler make her a tension set ring and the diamond came loose twice. She's super lucky she didn't lose it. The jeweler ended up adding a super thin bezel to the setting which solved the problem.

 

[kenny]

Thanks for finding that Chrono.
I believe Niessing is the most expensive of the Big 4.
So the failure is surprising to me, that is if the owner is to be believed and wasn't just using the publicity of PS to get satisfaction from Niessing even though they were at fault for damaging the ring.
I've done MUCH worse than clapped my hands wearing a platinum and a titanium TS.

The OP posted Niessing's reply to their complaint over the loss of the diamond ...

"I contacted Niessing and they replied as:
"The examination of the ring did not show any evidence of a fault in material or workmanship. But there are clear
marks on the ring indicating that the ring was subject to a hard stroke or hit from outside which led to the loss
of the diamond, i.e. an impact that normally does not occur with the regular daily wear and tear.
As a result Niessing cannot assume any responsibility for the loss of the diamond"."

Something smelled foul with that thread ... After wearing the ring over two years the diamond suddenly falls out while clapping at a concert? GMAB!
This thread reveals a likely-unethical customer more than it casts doubt on the safety of all Tension Settings.

Does anyone know how many lost diamond from prong settings threads there are on PS?
10? 20? 100?
Sure, you'd have to factor in that there are many more prong settings out there than tension settings ... but still.

I really wish there was an independent scientific double blind study from some entity like Consumer Reports on TS vs. prong settings.
Short of that we are all left to speculate and just go with our gut or our reasoning, and perhaps comparing the number of lost diamond threads from prong vs. TSs.

Frankly, I have no problem if people feel tension settings are dangerous.
I disagree, but I do not subscribe to the idea that one way or opinion is superior and conquers all others.
We don't have scientific data so no absolute statement can be issued ... we are stuck with opinions, or rational reasons.
After owning 4 TSs my mind is made up and I'll continue to post my reasons for loving TSs and why I reason that they are safer than prongs.

 

[Dancing Fire]

Kenny...I love your TS! would there be a problem using a TS on a SI clarity stone?

 

[kenny]

Kenny...I love your TS! would there be a problem using a TS on a SI clarity stone?

Maybe.
It depends on WHY it's SI1.
Some inclusions are mechanical/structural concerns while others are less so.
The location of the inclusions may be of importance too.

You really must ask the company setting it.
They'll want to see the GIA/AGS report and probably the stone too.

 

[TracyBear]

Frankly, I have no problem if people feel tension settings are dangerous.
I disagree, but I do not subscribe to the idea that one way or opinion is superior and conquers all others.
We don't have scientific data so no absolute statement can be issued ... we are stuck with opinions, or rational reasons.
After owning 4 TSs my mind is made up and I'll continue to post my reasons for loving TSs and why I reason that they are safer than prongs.

Kenny, you sound very defensive, esp. when others are just looking out for your best interest by giving advice. When it comes down to it, it's your hard earned money, your stone, and you'll be the one wearing this ring. If the TS is what you want, get it and tell us how it goes. It'll be interesting to know what this setting can withstand since you're right, there is no scientific studies done on this subject matter.

 

[kenny]

Kenny, you sound very defensive ...

No problem.

 

[kenny]

People vary.
Some just go on the what's written.
Others let their feelings about the author prevent them from seeing what's written.

 

[JulieN]

I am under the impression that the Claude T is a true tension. The presence of the connecting bar doesn't have anything to do with with that.

 

[kenny]

I am under the impression that the Claude T is a true tension. The presence of the connecting bar doesn't have anything to do with with that.

Your impression is not correct ... unless that gold bar is purely decorative, bearing no force and free to wobble in place.

Here are two more with the tension setting 'look' that are not a tension setting, even if the seller call they tension set.
Some sellers also call mined colored diamonds with treated color "natural" colored diamonds.
That does not make the color also of natural origin.
Sellers bend the truth and borrow statements to sell a fake something cheaper than the real thing.
Many buyers are gullible and poorly informed.
Please let's not perpetuate that here on Pricescope.

 

[kenny]

Here's one with the 'tension set look' at actually admits to being "the tension set look".
Tension set look is not the same as tension set.

http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk/details/web/type/rings/id/3578

 

[JulieN]

Thanks, I'm fully aware of what a tension setting is.

 

[kenny]

Thanks, I'm fully aware of what a tension setting is.

Apparently not, since you wrote this, "I am under the impression that the Claude T is a true tension. The presence of the connecting bar doesn't have anything to do with with that."

Metal beside or under the diamond connecting both sides makes the ring not a tension setting.
Such settings are called, 'tension setting look".

 

[kenny]

Since there appears to be some confusion, here is a description of tension setting from Wikipedia.
Not exactly the mouth of God, but it's not like GIA grades setting types.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tension_ring

A tension ring is a type of finger ring in which the gemstone is held in place by pressure rather than prongs, a bezel or other mounting.
The metal setting is actually spring-loaded to exert pressure onto the gemstone, and tiny etchings/grooves are added to the metal in order to create a shelf for the gemstone's edges to rest.
The gemstone appears to be suspended in the air with nothing holding it in place.

Faux tension settings

Some rings, while advertised as and having the appearance of tension rings, in fact have a bridge holding the ring together underneath the jewel. These are not true examples of a tension set ring, but they are a good option if you are looking for an affordable alternative to true tension settings. Although the wearer knows that it is not a true setting, it will appear to be a tension setting to the casual observer. This is also a good option if you don't have the funds to purchase a handmade ring and are going for a ring that is produced on a mass scale.

Tension setting security debate

There are conflicting perspectives regarding the security of tension settings. Many jewelers contend that tension settings are as safe and potentially safer than four and six prong settings, but there are others who contend that prongs are stronger.[4] The reality is that both ring designs have weaknesses that are unique to their engineering process. Prongs can snag on clothes and other loose objects, and they weaken with time and usage. As a result, prongs must be repaired or replaced periodically. On the other hand, tension settings will not lose their spring-loading over time, and the stone will therefore not fall out as a result of the setting weakening. Critics do contend that a stone can potentially be dislodged from a tension setting if it is hit hard enough or if the setting is damaged to the point where its spring loading is compromised. Tension manufacturers partially agree with this statement, warning their customers that stones can be lost if the setting suffers a blunt force impact that damages the spring-loading, but they also point out that no stone has ever been lost as a result of a manufacturing defect.[citation needed] Overall, there is a risk that the setting can be compromised when exposed to high impact, but this is also true of prong settings and there are many examples of prongs failing and needing to be replaced or stones falling out. Tension settings on the other hand do not need to be replaced, and unless their spring-loading is damaged, are very unlikely to lose their gem stone.

 

[woofmama]

To the OP: I love the modern look of tension settings and went to a Chicago jeweler on Saturday that carries Gelin Abaci.
The settings were amazing! I have been wanting one for a couple of years and loved trying them on. I haven't seen the brand you're considering IRL but really like the look. If you do get one please post pictures.

Kenny: Your rings are in my top ten favorites on PS. I covet them!

 

[kenny]

Thanx Woffie.

 

[iheartscience]

Are you in the DC area? Have you checked out any retailers of Claude Thibaudeau? It looks like this setting is on sale at Mervis Diamond. I think this is one time when it's worth it to pay for the original. According to the Claude Thibaudeau website it comes in white gold, too, which is likely less expensive than the platinum version.

http://www.mervisdiamond.com/clearance/claude-thibaudeau-plt-165-engagement-ring.html

 

[kenny]

I think tension settings are lovely. Just one thing to keep in mind - my jeweler told me that they can't be resized. You basically have to create a new one. If you're cool with this or you don't think your finger will change sizes before you get tired of the setting, you should go for it! I like the setting you chose, btw, it's unique.

FWIW, I had my platinum Gelin Abaci sized up a half size, from 8 to 8.5.
Sure, that's not much but equivalent to perhaps a case or two of potato chips, or one case of potato chips and one pallet of ice cream, or half a case of potato chips half a pallet of ice cream and 10 cases of wine.

But yes, tension settings cannot be sized much.
If that becomes a problem you can always do what I did ... refuse to stop cramming the entire food store into my face and just wear the ring on another finger or hand.

Tension setting would be a poor choice if your weight goes up and down a great deal.

 

[MustangGal]

My old boss had the Claude Thibaudeau ring as her e-ring, with a 1.5ct or so diamond. It was really pretty, but fairly thick/clunky. It took a beating, she'd been wearing it for years, never took it off, and was very animated with her hands. She had pretty small fingers, but just keep in mind it's going to weigh a ton with a 2.9ct diamond.

 

[brellymom]

A super thank you to everyone for their comments!

Kenny - i have always enjoyed looking at your pieces. So pretty! The wide-openness of the setting is why i like that look. Thanks for the info and directing me to options. I'll have fun looking around those sites for sure!

Chrono - thanks for the link to another's experience, always good to know the good, bad, and ugly when investing at this level that's for sure!

Sortmon - good tip about the sizing, I hadn't thought about that. I think my size has stabilized, but it's an important consideration.

thing2of2 - also good to be sure I check on experience, thanks for that advice. I did check with local retailers - it's the trade off between the 'real thing' and the cost, of course. But in this case, I probably do want to be careful not to 'be penny wise and pound foolish'!

MustangGal - excellent point - i was leaning towards platinum, which is heavier to begin with - and will have to factor that experience in.

Again, thanks everyone for your comments, it's very helpful to have a site like this where we can get good input. I put a call into a local retailer to see if they have one in stock so i can at least see what it looks like! If i decide to go with it, i'll let you know (after I peruse the sites Kenny suggested!)

 

[chrono]

I don't know if this bothers you but the extreme width of tension set shanks are way too thick for me. Given that I have short stubby fingers, it isn't a look that I can pull off. The minimum shank width is the diameter of the diamond so if it is 8 mm, then expect the shank to be 8 mm. For the design you are considering, the shank is thinner but will still remain substantial. I would suggest trying on a few in person.

 

[kenny]

I don't know if this bothers you but the extreme width of tension set shanks are way too thick for me. Given that I have short stubby fingers, it isn't a look that I can pull off. The minimum shank width is the diameter of the diamond so if it is 8 mm, then expect the shank to be 8 mm. For the design you are considering, the shank is thinner but will still remain substantial. I would suggest trying on a few in person.

The OP's avatar shows her wearing a wide ring, so perhaps she likes them.
You wrote, " The minimum shank width is the diameter of the diamond so if it is 8 mm, then expect the shank to be 8 mm. "
Not so.
While the minority, some TS designs are thinner than the diamond's diameter.
My Gelin Abaci platinum ring is thinner than the ACA it holds.
Most designs are wider than the diamond and this is certainly safer, but it is the customer's choice.
Exposing the girdle like this presents a risk that is identical to that of every 4-prong setting.

Here's a Niessing


Steven Kretchmer


Gelin Abaci

 

[JulieN]

I think we can all agree that the bar underneath faux tension/tension-look settings do not provide any spring forces, it is only for strength.

if the gold bar on a CT setting provides tension, and the two sides provide tension, it is still a tension setting, the individual forces will be a little different but the net result is the same.

If the gold bar on a CT setting DOES NOT provide tension, BUT the two sides provide tension, it is still a tension setting.

That is why I say the gold bar in itself does not matter. What matters is if the diamond is held in by tension or not.

 

[chrono]

Yes, wide bands but the current shank of her e-ring is thin by comparison so when you add everything up together, her finger gets collared all the way up possibly close to the knuckle. Just something she might want to be aware of, that's all, especially if she is planning to wear her current wide band with a tension set ring.

The picture helps to get some perspective of the shank size of a tension setting but it is still around 75% to 80% thick relative to the diamond so a 8 mm diamond might have a 6 mm shank at the very least.

In the design the OP is considering, there is also added height from the metal coming across the top and bottom of the diamond, so a 8 mm diamond will end up being at least 10 mm in height, possibly closer to 12 mm since I don't think the metal can be as thin as 1 mm on each end.

 

[kenny]

I think we can all agree that the bar underneath faux tension/tension-look settings do not provide any spring forces, it is actually for strength.

if the gold bar on a CT setting provides tension, and the two sides provide tension, it is still a tension setting, the individual forces will be a little different but the net result is the same.

If the gold bar on a CT setting DOES NOT provide tension, BUT the two sides provide tension, it is still a tension setting.

That is why I say the gold bar in itself does not matter. What matters is if the diamond is held in by tension or not.

I'm at a loss in how to reply to this so I'll just not touch the 'logic' presented here with a ten foot pole.
People vary and everyone is entitled to their opinion, but when someone posts that 2+2=5 it's hard to not respond.
When they continue to argue that 5 is correct ... well ... I stumped.