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Wink''s thoughts from the EightStar Conference

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WinkHPD

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I just spent some wonderful time at the EightStar dealer’s conference. It was Fantastic.

We heard in great detail from Peter Yantzer as to what was done in the development of the AGS Princess grades, even though it did not directly involve EightStar dealers, and about their future projects. Their next project is the square emerald cut and they are much further into it than you might imagine. We saw many of the charts that they have done already, and it is now going to be possible to get a great square emerald cut, just as it is now possible to get a great princess.

I believe that in a few short years the dearth of great looking stones will be over and the vast ocean of lifeless looking fancy cuts will be entering the cutting factories for “extreme” make overs.

I do not remember if Peter gave us the order in which it will happen or not, but Ovals, Marquises, radiants are not far off. I believe the comment may have been something along the lines of, “If they will just quit sending me around the world I can do several more of them done next year.”

Peter was just in India and missed the deadly monsoon rains by just a few days. He says that many of the Indian cutters were starting to cut the AGS 1’s and 0 princess cut stones, so it will not be too much longer before they become more available. He says that they are all just waiting for the next stone on the list so that they can jump on it and become vendors for the new AGS 0 cuts. I think this is a VERY good thing for consumers. Not only will you be given the data about the new cuts, but the new cuts will be on the market in unprecedented quickness.

Gary Roskin was also there and gave us a great look into what is going on in the market (he now works for JC-K a jewelry trade magazine) He also talked about his new book, Photo Masters for Diamond Grading 2. It will have more and even better pictures than his first Photo Masters book. He says that the new lenses in some of the Microscopes make it easier to see inclusions that we simply could not detect with earlier lenses. He also said that diamond grading is a living breathing art and that some stones are in different categories than they were ten years ago. Gary spent a lot of time taking pictures and talking with various attendees, who knows what might show up in JC-K one of these coming issues.

Marte Haske (Adamasgem) was there too, and he went into excruciating detail on things mathematical and reflective. I hope my head will quit hurting soon. Marte does NOT like the term leakage and states correctly that ALL diamonds leak light and provided some great graphs to show leakage as determined with “only 40,000 rays”. More charts and graphs were given to show the light leakage in a dirty stone, an amazing difference was seen between clean and dirty stones, so be sure to clean your diamonds tonight. He insists that the white light seen in a firescope or ASET not be called leakage but rather a point at which light is not capable of being reflected in the diamond when seen from that angle. Peter Yantzer calls these areas leakage, and then defines leakage as areas where no reflected light is seen from that angle. Since the public, those who understand this at all, largely think of those areas as leakage, I like Peter’s usage better than Marte''s.

There were a couple of other great speakers there too, one on the intricacies of proper lighting to display diamonds and colored stones who spoke with fabulous authority on color temperature and what light temperatures worked best for diamonds, sapphires, and rubies. He also spoke about NOT lighting up your store with klieg lights that made any old diamond look great until it was taken out of the store. Light realistically so that your diamond looks great at the store, but also like it will look at home so that you do not destroy credibility with your clientele. I know a LOT of jewelers who should have listened to him before spending tens of thousands on their lighting.

All in all it was a very worthwhile conference and I am fortunate to have been able to attend.

Wink

P.S. It amazes me now that I reflect upon it, just how much of the conference had nothing to do with EightStar and everything to do with diamonds as a whole and especially the information from Peter Yantzer, Gary Roskin and Phil, the lighting guy. Even Marte''s work was largely about reality in the diamond world and the math and other mind splitting facts rather than concentrating only on EightStar. It was a great experience and prepared me to be ready to discuss many things with the fine people here on Pricescope.
 

decodelighted

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Ooooh. AGS 0 square emerald cut ... why couldn''t it be out NOW! I''m an asscher lover and one of those might just do the trick. Hmmm, temp CZ anyone? Pricescope, you continue to vex me!!!!
 

DiamondExpert

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Wink - thanks for the "peek" into your meeting...it''s always informative and motivating to be around the shakers and movers.

Somehow I wish more of us could have had your experience!
 

strmrdr

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"Their next project is the square emerald cut and they are much further into it than you might imagine."

Ok Wink cough up everything you heard bout that one or im gonna have to send someone over with some ball bats :}
j/k kinda

Did you tell them strmrdr says its all about patterns??????
 

strmrdr

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Which style of SE''s did they settle on?
Classic?
Modern interpretation?
if its large table im going postal!! lol
 

WinkHPD

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Storm,

Let''s just say that Peter showed us pictures of what a well cut square emerald will look like, and some of what the average lifeless lump of crystallized carbon looks like and that I will be among those that like the well cut square emerald better!

Of course these were just the computerized ASET pictures, I can hardly wait to see one of the "real deal" AGS 0 cut squares.

I suspect that WhiteFlash, Infinity and the Indian cutters that Peter visited will likely be some of the first to make those available. I have my wishes as to who wins the race, but no matter who cuts the first, there will be others right on his heels! I encouraged EightStar to get involved with these, but Richard von Sternberg is planning to continue doing what he is doing rather than spreading his resources and I have to admire his steadfastness and his vision.

Dang if there aren''t a whole lot of people I admire and respect in this business, I feel very blessed to be in it at such an exciting time. I have seen more developements in the cut world in the past few years than in the previous thirty years that I have been in the business.

Wink
 

strmrdr

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Date: 8/11/2005 10:25:58 PM
Author: Wink
Storm,


Let''s just say that Peter showed us pictures of what a well cut square emerald will look like, and some of what the average lifeless lump of crystallized carbon looks like and that I will be among those that like the well cut square emerald better!


Of course these were just the computerized ASET pictures, I can hardly wait to see one of the ''real deal'' AGS 0 cut squares.


I suspect that WhiteFlash, Infinity and the Indian cutters that Peter visited will likely be some of the first to make those available. I have my wishes as to who wins the race, but no matter who cuts the first, there will be others right on his heels! I encouraged EightStar to get involved with these, but Richard von Sternberg is planning to continue doing what he is doing rather than spreading his resources and I have to admire his steadfastness and his vision.


Dang if there aren''t a whole lot of people I admire and respect in this business, I feel very blessed to be in it at such an exciting time. I have seen more developements in the cut world in the past few years than in the previous thirty years that I have been in the business.


Wink


need more data!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How am i spose to sleep tonight???!!!???!!!???!!!!???!!!???!???!!!???
aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggg *head explodes*
 

WinkHPD

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If I gave you any data now I would have to fake it, then in a few months you would be really cranky when you realized that Garbage in is Garbage out, unless I got really lucky and faked up what turned out to be the final result.

Since I am NOT one of the great minds of the jewelry business, I think we know what the odds of THAT are!

Wink
 

coconut

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But why only SQUARE EMERALD cuts and not REctangular Emerald Cuts????

Wink, is there an approximate time as to how soon it will be available for consumers??





(it seems like I gotto wait a bit longer for my perfect stone....)

Oh my Oh my.....
 

WinkHPD

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They need a few thousand, as in tens of thousands, fewer models for the square than the rectangular as they must do 1 - 1.3, 1 - 1.25, 1 - 1.35 etc etc.

Doing them one step at a time will give them the experience to do them more rapidly when it comes time to do the difficult ones...

Wink
 

strmrdr

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shoot I dont know wether to be happy that AGS is going to be improving SE cuts man imagine if the improvement was as big as with princess cuts and thats very very possible.
Its mind blowing!

Or totaly bummed out that I dont have more info.

Or mad that they are trying to drive me insane! by not giving data must have data!!
 

mrssalvo

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storm,
kaleigh's serving drinks over in hangout, maybe you should go grab one
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ETA: i see you already did
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belle

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thanks for the info wink
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strm chill...we''re gonna be the first of the last to know
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strmrdr

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Date: 8/11/2005 11:28:01 PM
Author: belle
thanks for the info wink
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strm chill...we''re gonna be the first of the last to know
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37.gif

but but i want a reason to be grouchy and sad that isnt a major life issue for a change
 

strmrdr

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Date: 8/12/2005 12:37:44 AM
Author: strmrdr
Date: 8/11/2005 11:28:01 PM

Author: belle

thanks for the info wink
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strm chill...we''re gonna be the first of the last to know
2.gif
37.gif


but but i want a reason to be grouchy and sad that isnt a major life issue for a change

ok ok ok ill admit it asschers are a major life issue!
 

belle

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Date: 8/12/2005 12:37:44 AM
Author: strmrdr


Date: 8/11/2005 11:28:01 PM
Author: belle
thanks for the info wink
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strm chill...we're gonna be the first of the last to know
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37.gif

but but i want a reason to be grouchy and sad that isnt a major life issue for a change
hehehe...i thought i took care of that for you today!
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<-----that's me hiding behind a book
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WinkHPD

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Date: 8/12/2005 12:37:44 AM
Author: strmrdr
Date: 8/11/2005 11:28:01 PM

Author: belle

thanks for the info wink
2.gif




strm chill...we''re gonna be the first of the last to know
2.gif
37.gif


but but i want a reason to be grouchy and sad that isnt a major life issue for a change

And with that great giggle I am going to go to bed happy! Thanks!

Wink
 

JohnQuixote

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Date: 8/11/2005 10:29:20 PM
Author: strmrdr

need more data!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How am i spose to sleep tonight???!!!???!!!???!!!!???!!!???!???!!!???
aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggg *head explodes*
Hehehehehehe.

Just seeing this.

Strm - might as well move to Vegas right now and camp out on AGS'' doorstep like you were in line for a Star Wars movie.
 

JohnQuixote

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Wink. Great review. Thank you for that.

Very gratifying to hear about the balance in the presentation. What a great slate of speakers.

By the way, I agree with Marty''s point about ''leakage'' as opposed to the description of light not being reflected - but I also bow to the logic of sticking with it since it has entered the lexicon.

Sounds like you had fun.
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Garry H (Cut Nut)

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thx Wink (and Hi Mate)

We were with Peter in Mumbai for his presentation there. - left to right - GH, Peter, Sergey and Yuri (MSU Prof and head of Russian Gem Center).

Peter went to Surat with Janak Mistry and the take in window people to meet some of the leading manufacturers whose factories I have shown in some of my Blogs in the Journal section.

Janak manufacturers cutting equipment for high end manufacturers and is also the Agent for Sergey''s OctoNus products like DiamCalc and Helium, as well as Ideal-Scope.

Peter was blown away in Surat, as is everyone who goes there and is allowed to see what is really happening there. There are many people in Surat who lurk on Pricescope
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mumbai July2005.jpg
 

WinkHPD

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Hello yourself Gary.

About the time I get to realizing how blessed I am to occassionally hang with the greats of our Industry I see another picture of you and realize I am really a rookie by comparrison.

Peter spoke fondly of his trip to Surat and with amazement how everything in the city could be in such a shambles until you got to one of the diamond factories and then you could eat off the floor in a totally modern facility that was kept like a computer clean room.

Friedmans's hit book, "The World is Flat" talks about the growth of service and manufacturing centers in India and China, listening to Peter talk brought home to me how they are a shining reality of our world. While we have some examples of outstanding people in the traditional centers, like Paul Slegers in Antwerp, we are seeing more and more challange to them by people in places like Surat. I think in the long run this is good for the consumer and also for the innovative in the old traditional centers as such competition will force them to be more innovative and to search for niches to fill, which will still further serve the consumer.

I forsee enclaves of super concentrated excellence, like EightStar in California, Infinty in Antwerp, WhiteFlash and others being increasingly challenged by cutters in India who will bring much higher standards to the market than much of the lifeless crud that is marketed to the market today. Higher knowledge on the part of the consumer will eventually diminish the poorly cut diamond's saleability and the vast swarm of cutters producing them will be forced to change or cease to exist. Specialty items, such as the beautiful Jubilee cut will whittle out their share of the market also. Beauty will prosper and lifelessness will finally receive its just reward, fading into the sunset, a forgotten memory of the days when any old cut would do.

Sigh, maybe I forsee too much. Likely there will always be a drek market for those who wish just to buy a stone and get it over with, but I really long for the days to come when consumers are knowlegeable and more than just the fraction of a percent who care about these things today. I want to see the Richard von Sternbergs (EightStar), the Paul Slegers (Infinity), and the Brian the Cutters (WhiteFlash) rewarded for their efforts in bringing forth excellence.

Ironically I believe that the new breed of cutters coming alive in India will help that happen as they produce beauty also, driving the crud from the market and raising awareness of the beauty that is trapped within so many of the diamonds on the market today to the point where we have FREE BEAUTY campaigns and consumers have their tired lifeless diamonds recut in droves.

In the meantime I will continue to treasure my brief time with some of the men and women who are making these things happen.

Richard, my thanks to you again for such an incredible conference. When ever I spend any time with you I come home obsessed with beauty and the tiny differences that make such huge visual impacts on the diamonds I love. Man, what a GREAT business to be in!

Wink
 

strmrdr

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Date: 8/12/2005 3:37:09 AM
Author: JohnQuixote
Date: 8/11/2005 10:29:20 PM

Author: strmrdr


need more data!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How am i spose to sleep tonight???!!!???!!!???!!!!???!!!???!???!!!???

aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggg *head explodes*

Hehehehehehe.


Just seeing this.


Strm - might as well move to Vegas right now and camp out on AGS'' doorstep like you were in line for a Star Wars movie.

Awesome idea!!!
nice nice SE''s are better than star wars anyday!!
 

strmrdr

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Date: 8/12/2005 10:10:41 AM
Author: strmrdr
Date: 8/12/2005 3:37:09 AM

Author: JohnQuixote

Date: 8/11/2005 10:29:20 PM


Author: strmrdr



need more data!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


How am i spose to sleep tonight???!!!???!!!???!!!!???!!!???!???!!!???


aaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrggggggggggggggg *head explodes*


Hehehehehehe.



Just seeing this.



Strm - might as well move to Vegas right now and camp out on AGS'' doorstep like you were in line for a Star Wars movie.


Awesome idea!!!

nice nice SE''s are better than star wars anyday!!


Should I take a sign that says will work for free just bring on the SE''s!?!?!?
 

WinkHPD

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Well, maybe not all together, but it is my fervent hope that most are at least dragged, kicking and screaming if necessary, towards cutting better looking stones.

Wink
 

Rhino

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This thread has me rolling! Wink... I saw the same presentation here at the NY JA show given by Pete. I know he specifically said square emerald cuts but wasn''t the picture in the slide show of a rectangular emerald cut?

On another note ... I was invited to come by 8* and regret having missed the meeting but my mom pulled her back out and I had no choice but to stay behind and take care of business while she was down (literally). Glad to hear it was such a success Wink.

All the best,
 

WinkHPD

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Hey Rhino, sorry you did not make it. It would have been nice to finally meet you face to face.

Yes, he showed us a slide of an emerald cut, but he also showed us some pictures of models for the square emerald cut. And let''s just say that maybe a few things got said at EightStar that did not get said at JA. Not that I would remember them if asked of course...

It was a wonderful weekend and I learned a lot from the other attendees also. You would definitely have been a welcome addition to the mix.

Wink
 

Rhino

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One of my biggest regrets bossman was not being able to meet you face to face as well.
 

RockDoc

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Hi Wink

Glad you had a good time. I was at the one held two years ago or so ( maybe it''s 3 years).

Had a great time there.

Even though many want unendless data, the data has to be accurate, and that takes an enormous amount of testing, and sampling before it become the standard.

I do think however the vision that you wrote is far more correct than just an assumption. I believe it will pretty much go as you''ve predicted.

Regards,

Rockdoc
 
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