BENCH JEWELERS-- your advice please.

[Gypsy]

There is a second hand semi mount available that has a very lovely, extremely expensive shoulder design that I have been in love with for ages.

The price is reasonable enough that I can afford some repair to it.

BUT the problem is the basket is for a 9 x 8 stone and my stone is 8.6 x 7.1. It's an integrated basket, not a peg.

I KNOW it depends on the setting design so I've attached a pic.

Just let me know if it is possible to ask a bench jeweler to cut out an existing basket and re-attach a different, smaller, one. I know it's not an ideal thing to do, but the rest of the setting is in great shape. The metal is platinum.

 

[bright ice]

I can't answer your question Gypsy but if you find that it does not work for you, I would be interested to know if it would accommodate a stone that is 9.26 x 8.29? I have a stone with those dimensions and would love to have a nice secondhand setting.

 

[Gypsy]

I can't answer your question Gypsy but if you find that it does not work for you, I would be interested to know if it would accommodate a stone that is 9.26 x 8.29? I have a stone with those dimensions and would love to have a nice secondhand setting.

Sure Bright Ice. I can do that. It's really lovely. If I buy it and it doesn't work out, I would list it on Pre-loved.

 

[CharmyPoo]

I think it will be difficult.

 

[slg47]

Gypsy can you get a larger sapphire

 

[Gypsy]

Gypsy can you get a larger sapphire

I would love to. But with the price of sapphires right now... probably not. Still, if the one I just bought doesn't work out for me, I might just buy the setting and see if I can find a stone for it.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

I think it all depends on how large the basket is lower down where the cross bars are located.

I have been fortunate to find a really great local jeweler who hand forge their pieces, and man those chaps can do things we don't typically think is possible. I have a used mount that I want to use for a stone that is larger than the one originally in the mount. The usualy CAD/CAM jewelers we use here on PS were pretty clear that there were real limits to what size diamonds could go into the mount. I took it to the local jeweler and he looked at it and said "No problem! Bigger, we just use the old laser welder to add to the prongs, smaller and we just seat it lower and cut and reshape the prongs." No problemo at all from his perspective, and I believe him these guys are pretty hard core.

Anyways, with my mount the reason it would work is the cross bar in the basket is low enough and the prongs angles enough that even with the stone set lower into the basket, you cannot see the cross bar at all. Does what I am saying make sense?

Looking at your mount it looks like there is not a lot of prong above the cross bar, so sitting it lower might not work. But perhaps they can actually lower the cross bar?

If you have a great bench I feel like they could do anything. Cut out the basket, make a new one, cut the shank at the bottom to allow the shoulders to move closer to the new smaller basket, then add platinum to the shank... but I am no jewler, it just seems possible for a really awesome bench who can hand forge [pieces. But what do I know

 

[Gypsy]

I might take a chance on it. It's really quite perfect. And if it doesn't work for me, well, Bright Ice can have it. LOL.

 

[Gypsy]

Dreamer, you know I was just talking about this with some friends in a place that misses you and wishes you would come back, if you know what I mean, AND I just remembered something that totally goes along with what you said.

When I asked BGD if my only halo could be removed and re-placed, they said it wasn't a good idea and I should just have the whole thing replaced. Now, I'm sure that Brian was correct, strictly speaking. In other words, in an ideal world that would be the best solution. BUT... Steven, who we all know hand forges, didn't even blink at the suggestion that he just replace my halo, and keep my shank. He used a laser to cut my halo from the shank and to remove the original gallery wires. And it's great now. I'm really happy with it.

Now if we could only get one of our professional posters with some experience in here to tell me if those cross bar and shank pieces can be removed and replaced with a handforged wire one that's smaller, it would make me happy.

 

[Mike R]

There is a second hand semi mount available that has a very lovely, extremely expensive shoulder design that I have been in love with for ages.

The price is reasonable enough that I can afford some repair to it.

BUT the problem is the basket is for a 9 x 8 stone and my stone is 8.6 x 7.1. It's an integrated basket, not a peg.

I KNOW it depends on the setting design so I've attached a pic.

Just let me know if it is possible to ask a bench jeweler to cut out an existing basket and re-attach a different, smaller, one. I know it's not an ideal thing to do, but the rest of the setting is in great shape. The metal is platinum.

Hi Gypsy,
Not all bench jewelers share the same opinion, I will give you mine, I hope it helps.

Yes it is possible to replace the basket for a smaller one, but like Dreamer said, you will need a skilled bench that is great at hand making jewelry.

Disclaimer: I do not do repairs or alterations so the following comment is just to give you an idea of how it might be done.

I would cut out the whole center setting (donut, claws and basket) and make up a new smaller one to fit your stone, then bend the shank together to make the gap smaller to fit the new setting. Then once the setting is soldered in the size can be adjusted in the normal way.
I can't really tell from the picture but small support wires might need to be soldered in to support the shoulders while the center setting is cut out.

Do you have time to get a quote to have the work done before you commit to buying the setting?

 

[Gypsy]

Hi Mike! Thanks so much for the thoughtful and concise response. I really appreciate it. Yes, I do have time and I am going to my favorite local jeweler tomorrow actually and will speak to him about the setting as well.

Can I ask you for a idea of what might be the cost of this ... ballpark and in your opinion since you are being so kind and altruistic. And alsi sunce you have no dog in this race, so to speak.

Again, thank you for your time. Also, welcome!

 

[decodelighted]

For price ballpark idea sake .... I had a less dramatic modification of my platinum e-ring done by an excellent jeweler/bench, cutting out a peg head & putting in a custom made "basket" instead & it was about a $900 job five years ago?

 

[Gypsy]

For price ballpark idea sake .... I had a less dramatic modification of my platinum e-ring done by an excellent jeweler/bench, cutting out a peg head & putting in a custom made "basket" instead & it was about a $900 job five years ago?

Crap. I was hoping against hope it would be around 200. The mounting is wellpriced but not that well priced. My entire halo redo including all new melee and under wires was around 1200. That's really high to me Deco. Wonder why?

 

[decodelighted]

For price ballpark idea sake .... I had a less dramatic modification of my platinum e-ring done by an excellent jeweler/bench, cutting out a peg head & putting in a custom made "basket" instead & it was about a $900 job five years ago?

Crap. I was hoping against hope it would be around 200. The setting. Is wellpriced but not that well priced.

Your results may vary! But I thought it might be relevant ....

 

[Gypsy]

For price ballpark idea sake .... I had a less dramatic modification of my platinum e-ring done by an excellent jeweler/bench, cutting out a peg head & putting in a custom made "basket" instead & it was about a $900 job five years ago?

Crap. I was hoping against hope it would be around 200. The setting. Is wellpriced but not that well priced.

Your results may vary! But I thought it might be relevant ....

Definitely is, certainly. I appreciate the experience and the info. For an engagement ring ... sure Id spend it. For a RHR ... nope. Kwim? Doesn't cost a thing to ask though. So I still will do that. Thanks!

 

[Mike R]

Hi Mike! Thanks so much for the thoughtful and concise response. I really appreciate it. Yes, I do have time and I am going to my favorite local jeweler tomorrow actually and will speak to him about the setting as well.

Can I ask you for a idea of what might be the cost of this ... ballpark and in your opinion since you are being so kind and altruistic. And alsi sunce you have no dog in this race, so to speak.

Again, thank you for your time. Also, welcome!

No problem, I'm glad I could help.
Sorry I really can't help you with an estimate, I stay on the creative side and leave business stuff to others. I can say it will not be cheap though, making the setting is the most complicated/ time consuming part of the whole ring. It's more time consuming to make one of theses settings well than to make a halo top.

Good luck though, it doesn't hurt to ask your jeweler for a quote.

 

[oldminer]

Your existing stone is not all that much smaller than the setting in the ring. The width can be modified by cutting the bars betwwn the prongs. The length can be shortened with a great degree of difficulty by padding the indise of the prongs to make them accept a shorter stone and possibly also chaning their ange to a bit more upright position. Yes it can be done. Does it pay to do it? It depends on how badly you want it. It should cost less than making a new one and it may show a bit of the alterations when it is done.

 

[aljdewey]

Without seeing the piece directly, I'd say that I did have a ring altered like this. 18K WG ring was designed to fit an oval stone; I took it to a bench guy in NYC and they cut out the oval basket and replaced it with a round that fit my stone. Cost at the time (about 2 years ago) was about $100.

 

[dreamer_dachsie]

I would cut out the whole center setting (donut, claws and basket) and make up a new smaller one to fit your stone, then bend the shank together to make the gap smaller to fit the new setting. Then once the setting is soldered in the size can be adjusted in the normal way.

Cool, this is what I imagined could be done!

Gypsy, I miss peeople too, maybe soon

Alj's mount seems to differ from yours in that it *looks* like the round had the right width but the wrong length. In my totally inexpert opinion, that issue seems more easily fixed. Where the problem for you comes in, is the width, because it means they might need to pull the shank together or something.

I suspect Deco's quote could be close. But you never know. My local hand forging bench costs the same as ordering something from Stuller at another local jeweler

 

[Mike R]

Your existing stone is not all that much smaller than the setting in the ring. The width can be modified by cutting the bars betwwn the prongs. The length can be shortened with a great degree of difficulty by padding the indise of the prongs to make them accept a shorter stone and possibly also chaning their ange to a bit more upright position. Yes it can be done. Does it pay to do it? It depends on how badly you want it. It should cost less than making a new one and it may show a bit of the alterations when it is done.

This should be a cheaper way of doing it for sure.
It would all depend on what your expected level of finish is though, to me seeing any of the basket when looking down from the top would be unexceptable. Especially on a dark blue sapphire, for me the platinum basket would stand out like a sore thumb. It would also be a shame in my opinion to loose any of the nice taper to the setting.

 

[decodelighted]

I know my fix was so expensive because a new piece had to be handmade -- a metal "sling" kinda thing -- out of platinum - and it had to be thick enough to take up exactly the right amount of space so that my stone could be sunk into the pre-existing *hole* in the ornate setting. So the platinum costs alone were probably 1/3 of it. I saw every step of the way w/the hand fabrication. No one else around here wanted to attempt it. So I paid & trusted the one guy who said he could & am glad I did! If it hadn't been my engagement ring, and the only way I could think to modify it so it would be workable/durable, I don't think I would have invested as much for sure.

Probably someone in the NYC diamond district could have done a cheaper fix but for such a special piece I wanted to go w/someone I really trusted. KNOWING how often *fixing* ends up being especially!

 

[SweetAsscher]

I had a similar situation where my ring had a basket for a marquis and I wanted to put a larger width round instead. GOG quoted me about $200 to cut out and replace the basket plus the cost of the new basket that I was picking out from the stuller site.
I ended up not doing the mod bcuz I fell in love with a different setting tho.

 

[Gypsy]

WOW. A ton of great information. I will update after we get back tonight from the jeweler. But first, I want to thank everyone who is taking the time to help me, I really appreciate all your experiences-- whether you are a professional, a prosumer, or a newbie.

I just love the setting so much. And I passed on a similar one a few years ago and AM STILL kicking myself, if you can believe it, for doing that.

 

[Gypsy]

WELL. After a VERY fun day at Joe Escobar. I've decided to keep the sapphire AND to give the setting a try. From the various pics, they think it can be done under $300. But they won't know unless they get it in person. So I'm going to take the chance on it, and if they don't think they can work with it, they won't touch it and I'll put it on DB and let someone else enjoy it's beauty.

Fingers crossed.

 

[Enerchi]

Any pictures to post of this recent visit? do you have goodies to share??? Your last visit there was great to see!

 

[Gypsy]

I do have some pics, but they are mostly of sapphires. I will post them today or tomorrow, promise!