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Have Sapphire Need Ring Design

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
Hello
Having followed this site off and on, I've come to ask the foremost experts for advice on a custom ring setting.

Gem:
Sapphire, 16 cts, oval, no heat, no treatment, a medium blue, (no gray, no purple) GIA cert. The stone and cert are with my gemologist but it's roughly 14mm x 16mm. I do have a couple of hand shots but they are not indicative of actual stone; it has no grey or purple, and does not have a window or zoning as it appears, color is consistent blue throughout.

p1c.jpg
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
Setting: My preferences
Because the stone is large; white and yellow 18k gold rather than platinum for a lighter weight.
Diamond design on the side rather than on top like a 3 stone ring.
No to any type of halo.
Yes to double claw prongs.

CAD: Received preliminary CADs and they need work.
Diamonds should be much larger, 2x or 3x the size. And should they be marquis, pear, baguette?

Perhaps a deep split shank with the 2 diamonds forming a "V" at the top.
Diamonds, especially if marquis, need protection from me such as in a bezel or semi bezel.

Head area yellow gold. The head area also needs something to hide the side design from the top view. Any suggestions?
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
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Still figuring how to properly upload pics but at least they are viewable.

I welcome your design ideas, the custom rings I've seen on this forum are phenomenal!
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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This is one a PSer had made for her mother about six months ago (I think). It's stunning - has a ton of detail on the sides and an infinity design on the basket. I definitely think you should have some designs added to the basket because as it is now in the cad, there is nothing there except a gap, which would be pretty boring to look at.

http://www.etsy.com/transaction/104303148

I'm also not sure how bigger stones are going to look with the huge center stone - I almost think going with smaller stones and primarily a pave or small bezeled design is going to provide a lot more visual balance.
 

FrekeChild

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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19,456
First of all, what is your ring size? Do you have any pics of the stone straight on? What is your personal style and when do you plan to wear this ring?
 

VapidLapid

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Feb 18, 2010
Messages
4,271
Um, are you sure a ring is what you want? How about a scepter??!!

We are going to need a lot more pictures of the stone, from all sides, and much bigger. Really. It is like you walked in the door and said, I have some melee I'm not sure what to do with, and then you pull out the Cullinan.

The side diamonds, in the side view, look like a surprised face
 

JewelFreak

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
7,768
No, they look like a bunny rabbit.

Photos would help. With the size of that stone, you probably do want not-too-large side diamonds but there are ways to achieve a more graceful look. Is this for a RHR?

--- Laurie
 

VapidLapid

Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
4,271
yes, but a surprised bunny rabbit
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
Hello Distracts
Yes, that is indeed a beautiful ring and her mother is very lucky.
My preference tends toward less is more; a reason I prefer not to have a halo.
The pave might be too much but yes it does need something more on the head. I was thinking that larger diamonds would be the way to go so appreciate your comments as they help me think through possibilities.

Hi VapidLapid
It is larger than I usually wear as a ring; originally decided upon a pendant but when I floated the idea, it was nixed by everyone I asked. My jeweler threatened to disown me if I didn't make it a ring.

I wasn't expecting to need a lot of pics and the ring is probably off to be polished. I'll ask next week but don't expect to be able to fulfill that request any time soon.

When I received the CAD's, the surprised bunny look was probably mine as they weren't at all what was expected.
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
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78
Hi FrekeChild
Ring size is 7 (RHR) though if the band is thick it may be larger. My other ring choices tend towards 3 stone rings. Center stones are normally around 2 - 3 carats so this is a bit of a departure. I'll wear it from casual to dress; every couple of weeks or so, whenever the mood hits to wear it.

I prefer a narrow shank, but would that make it top heavy, and flop back and forth (as opposed to sliding or twisting back and forth). Would a two band ring help prevent that and avoid having one thick band? That's why I mentioned a split shank.

I did design and wear often a 3 carat emerald cut lavender sapphire with 6 .20 cut rounds on the side. Let's see, I also have a Burmese ruby oval I've had forever with baguettes on the side. As I said, simple design.

JewelFreak
Surprised bunny rabbit, yes.
I do have this other pic, but not sure it helps.

_6791.jpg
 

distracts

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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5,977
So I'm still not exactly sure what your style is or what you're going for with this ring, but I went on First Dibs and just looked at a bunch of cocktail rings and linked some with cool side designs here. And by "some" I mean "a buttload."

http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/fashion-rings/pearl-diamond-ring/id-j_103665/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/victorian-tri-gold-amethyst-diamond-antique-cocktail-ring/id-j_68026/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/bezel-set-citrine-diamond-pearl-cocktail-ring/id-j_97211/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/madame-butterfly-cognac-tourmaline-diamond-cocktail-ring/id-j_92458/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/tanzanite-cushion-ring-diamonds/id-j_97221/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/peridot-diamond-ring/id-j_89975/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/tamir-extraordinary-aquamarine-diamond-ring/id-j_89741/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/garrard-london-peridot-diamond-cocktail-ring/id-j_90693/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/tamir-incredible-3590ct-peridot-diamond-ring/id-j_91846/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/tamir-sweet-pinkish-orange-tourmaline-diamond-ring/id-j_89435/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/tamir-playful-peridot-diamond-ring-motion/id-j_88679/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/amethyst-intaglio-antiquity-ring/id-j_51309/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/1178-carat-blue-sapphire-diamond-platinum-ring/id-j_81294/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/aquamarine-ring/id-j_62212/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/retro-citrine-ruby-diamond-ring/id-j_67821/
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/cabochon-amethyst-swing-ring/id-j_29002/

I think I like this one most:
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/christian-dior-aquamarine-diamond-large-green-ring/id-j_101804/

But I think something like this may be more what you had in mind?
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/black-opal-diamond-ring/id-j_102161/
 

JewelFreak

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
7,768
Phenom, I roamed the MCII site -- not sure how simple or not you want to go, but possibly something inspired by these might strike you. Obvously these examples aren't all ovals, but you get the idea. The shanks on these rings aren't real wide, which you said you don't want, but their proportions support the heads well.

8525_x.jpg

8922_x.jpg

0044_b.jpg

8365_x.jpg
 

wordie89

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
572
Freke and Vapid
We'd all have this surprised expression if someone plonked that bad boy on our head! ! The Madame Butterfly ring is neat because it allows the stone to be the star face up and then provides some stunning side work. I also really like the last 3 pics as they satisfy the desire for simple designs and elegant. Only thought on that is OP's stone looks much bigger than ones in pictures and not sure if the proportions would translate as nicely. At any rate it looks like Distracts had fun researching! (I had to get on the laptop to really enjoy the pictures.... too small on the phone).
 

digdeep

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
877
So, let me understand this......you had wanted to put the stone in a pendant, but 'other' people said you shouldn't, so now you aren't going to? My first reaction when seeing the size of the stone and your hand was that you will never get a 'balanced' look with that large a rock on your fingers. I'd go with a pendant that you could let all that big glory shine! OTOH, it sounds like the ring is already a done deal, so I'm confused about this whole process?
 

GregS

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 5, 2012
Messages
717
I think this large of a stone would be better suited in a pendant as well.
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
Hi GregS and digdeep
Yes, those were my initial reactions as well. It is large and my tendency is to minimize it and put it in a pendant.

But, it could be fun having it in a ring. The key for me is finding the proper balance for the ring and also my taste. I'll try it for awhile and if it doesn't suit a ring, may move it to a pendant or out of my collection.
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
Wow, distracts, some of those are very colorful!
Thank you for providing some thought provoking designs.

Let's see
Like the narrow band and the split shank
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/peridot-diamond-ring/id-j_89975/

Same for this one:
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/1178-carat-blue-sapphire-diamond-platinum-ring/id-j_81294/

Like the top view and the prongs;
http://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/cocktail-rings/garrard-london-peridot-diamond-cocktail-ring/id-j_90693/
Perhaps the marquis would be a singular pear on each side, remove the outside row of pave, shown on the above.

This is really helping me think about what might work.
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
Yes, JewelFreak
The first one, the blue sapphire, is closer to what I originally was going for. The split shank, a marquis on each shank, a round diamond at the end and call it good. Obviously, from the CAD received my thoughts need tweaking so appreciate the designs.

The thinner shank is a must or I won't wear it; the first one still meets that criteria. I am concerned that it will flop, though, and why I was wondering about two bands, one on each end of the stone.

And looking at the CADs, it is too boring on top. The side basket that remains showing I can pattern the gold any way I choose as long as it doesn't affect the integrity of the basket.

Here is a link to how my taste usually runs.
http://www.jewelsdujour.com/2012/11/sothbeys-magnificent-jewels-from-the-collection-of-mrs-charles-wrightsman-new-york-december-5th-2012/
The cushion cut 9.4 ruby ring that is fairly basic with a couple of pear diamonds on the side. So it is a stretch even making this sapphire into a ring but think I can do so and still like and enjoy it. I'm up for the challenge!
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
wordie89|1370178541|3457670 said:
Freke and Vapid
We'd all have this surprised expression if someone plonked that bad boy on our head! I also really like the last 3 pics as they satisfy the desire for simple designs and elegant. Only thought on that is OP's stone looks much bigger than ones in pictures and not sure if the proportions would translate as nicely.

Definitely won't be talking with my hands as much, that's for sure.
The proportion is a major concern, to make it everyday elegant and balanced yet not strange, as it appears on the CADs.
 

FrekeChild

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 14, 2007
Messages
19,456
I can't find exactly what I'm looking for in my inspiration folder, but I've seen it before from Leon. I think there were three marquise stones... That center is going to take over your finger, so I think you're basically looking at making the sides and profile what you want. Since the stone is so deep, you have a lot of real estate to cover on the sides.
 

wordie89

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
572
Jewelphenom,

What a stunning collection from Mrs. Wrightsman! :o The ruby ring is beautiful and must have dwarfed her tiny 3.5 finger. From this sample I can well imagine her guiding Jackie Kennedy during the remodeling of the WH. Thanks for the link. Lots of fun as I glance at my grubby gardening hands (weeds are impertinent after all the rain this week. Oh heck, they're rambunctious at all times)

And nicely summed up Freke.
 

MollyMalone

Ideal_Rock
Premium
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Jun 2, 2013
Messages
3,413
I e-mailed the link to this thread to the goldsmith I've worked with most often & asked for his thoughts. Here's a somewhat abbreviated version of his response:

* Does her goldsmith have much experience with designing & crafting rings with stones of similar size? There''s more to such a project than simply taking a previous design and "blowing it up" for the size of this stone.

* It doesn't appear as if she has tried on many-any such rings in real life. If that's the case, I would encourage her to do that before she proceeds further with a ring design. There really is no substitute for some hands-on experiences with a ring of this scale (as one of my recent clients with a comparable stone would tell you; the final concept ended up quite a bit different than what she initially thought she wanted). And I'd like to see Ms. Phenom more comfortable overall with the prospect before she makes this kind of investment in such a ring -- only to either tear it down and remake it into a pendant or sell it. My philosophy is that one's jewelry shouldn't be a "challenge" or reflect other's expectations, but rather a more organic extension of your self.

* Like others in the thread, I'd suggest she start off with a pendant, and consider making it one that can serve as an enhancer as well. I predict she'd reach for a pendant-enhancer more often than a ring of that size. But if that proves to be a mistake in her eyes, it could be a less costly misstep than the reverse as I expect it will be easier to sell - at a price she would like - a pendant than either a ring with that stone or its mounting.

Hope his feedback is of some help to you ~ Molly
 

JewelFreak

Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
7,768
Oh gosh, Phenom, the jewelry you linked to is right up my alley too! Drool & a half, beautiful pieces. But there is nothing in that group -- and hardly in those style periods that could serve even as an inspiration for a setting for a stone the size of yours. All the rings are artfully bezeled, haloed, or with side stones like the ruby ring.

A ring with your sapphire is a major statement piece & if not done extremely well, could easily look (or feel) awkward. Or showy, which I gather isn't your style (great!).

Here's my input, fwiw. If you really want a ring, you need a very expert jeweller to design & execute it. Rather than the maker of yourr CAD, somebody on the level of MCII, though it could be a jeweler in your home town with the same expertise. Expensive proposition.

MollyMalone's jeweler's comments make a great deal of sense. Think Princess Diana's sapphire/pearl choker -- it's spectacularly elegant & beautiful. Less cost as part of a necklace; I think more fitting, & if you re-set it later as a ring, you'd still have the necklace. Much easier to design something you'd like, too.

Big lesson is to do what YOU want. Others can tell you it MUST be a ring, but they don't have to manage it & pay for it. Talk is easy! I'd take some time to think, visit jewelers & try stuff on, look at both necklaces & rings & pendants for a while -- the decision will come to you & you'll be happy with it.

--- Laurie
 

indigoblue

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
344
JewelPhenom|1370192335|3457728 said:
Here is a link to how my taste usually runs.
http://www.jewelsdujour.com/2012/11/sothbeys-magnificent-jewels-from-the-collection-of-mrs-charles-wrightsman-new-york-december-5th-2012/
The cushion cut 9.4 ruby ring that is fairly basic with a couple of pear diamonds on the side. So it is a stretch even making this sapphire into a ring but think I can do so and still like and enjoy it. I'm up for the challenge!
Did you notice that the ruby ring has sizing beads? Those might help you keep your ring upright on your finger. The diamond band in my avatar has sizing beads which keep the ring from spinning on my finger.
 

wordie89

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
572
large_blue_sapphire_ring.jpg

large_blue_sapphire_ring_side.jpg

Here's a nice design. Stone is about 9 carats. It's turn of the century..... last century! I thought the top view showed a partial bezel then realized that it's the sides that I can see. Pretty. I wish they had pics of it on the hand.
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
It has been several weeks since I visited this forum.

Must say everyone provided lots to think about; MollyMalone (who are you really?), GregS, distracts, FrekeChild, VapidLapid, JewelFreak, wordie89, digdeep, indigoblue; responses read like a who's who of PriceScope experts. Appreciate that you took time to comment.

Here are more sapphire photos as some requested. Took these last weekend while working with my jewelry designer and the gem was out of the vault.

Tried my best but the color seems to elude what is seen in real life.

_7555.jpg
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
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78
Probably the closest to the blue in real life; and it also shows the even color throughout.

The photo may appear to indicate a window, but there is no window. I was having difficulty holding it still for the photo, it was too big to grasp between the tweezers so it was precariously balanced instead.

_7557.jpg
 

JewelPhenom

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2013
Messages
78
It was a "no hand lotion" day so don't look too closely.

Attempted to let the software app automatically adjust the color and this is what it came up with; what appears to be red tinted hands on my monitor. Oh well, it does show the gem from another angle.

sapphire14.jpg
 
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