Aquamarine Search for Antique Setting

[omieluv]

My mother gave me my great grandmother's platinum engagement ring setting last year after my grandmother passed away. Originally, the setting housed a .73ct OEC center diamond (F-G color 58.6% depth & 54.5% table) (5.90 X5.83 X 3.4mm) and 22 bead set single diamonds (1.60mm - 1.50mm) each, totaling approx .30ct (F-H, VS). After the ring was passed to my grandmother, she emptied the setting into a cocktail ring she had designed for herself. Unfortunately, my mother does not appreciate the cocktail setting my grandmother designed, so she is going to place the center diamond into a pendant (hopefully the Bellerina from WF) and the small diamonds are going to be added to her wedding set. As a gift to me last year, my mother replaced all of the 22 smaller diamonds in my great grandmother's e-ring with new diamonds from my local jeweler (I believe them to be E-F color) and set it with an amethyst. She chose an amethyst center stone because purple happens to be my favorite color. However, this particular stone does not seem suited for this setting.

Since this setting is antique, I browsed through Fay Cullen for inspiration and found several antique/vintage settings containing aquamarine, which seems to speak to me. Additionally, I conducted a search via PS and found that the color of Catmom's aqua stone in her pendant is just beautiful. So, I suppose I am looking for a 6mm round aquamarine that is "deep blue" to I guess a medium "deep blue." My local jeweler estimates the cost of the type of aqua I want to be anywhere from $400-500 (Chicago area). They did not have any stones on hand and mentioned calling sources in the city, not sure what that means, but we shall see. However, I do not want to be limited to my local jeweler, so I am wondering if anyone can suggest reputable online vendors to contact.

 

[chrono]

Omie,
Gemstones tend to run a bit deeper, so I am going to search according to size of the original diamond dimensions: 5.90 X5.83 X 3.4mm to be sure that it will fit into the current setting. The aqua may well be smaller than 6 mm in order to fit your setting. My favourite vendors are:
www.winkjones.com
www.diamondexpert.com
www.acstones.com
Normally I'd suggest www.ajsgems.com but for a small aqua it may not be worth going overseas.
www.whitesgems.com but he's a cutter and may not have one available at the moment

Wink and Gary (the first two) will be able to source stones for you that are not listed on their website.

 

[omieluv]

Thanks Chrono, I have sent Wink an e-mail. This weekend, I plan to take a few pictures of the setting, just so everyone can have a nice visual representation of the ring.

 

[omieluv]

Just for fun, I have attached a collage of 3 different perspectives of my ring.

 

[omieluv]

Here is a larger picture...

 

[omieluv]

Yet another..

 

[omieluv]

Last one...

 

[surfgirl]

omie...is there any chance your mother would consider taking the newer stones out of your ring and swapping with you for the original stones? I''m hoping someday you''ll be able to reunite those stones into their original setting...It looks like a lovely ring!

 

[omieluv]

Date: 12/10/2007 1:24:49 PM
Author: surfgirl
omie...is there any chance your mother would consider taking the newer stones out of your ring and swapping with you for the original stones? I''m hoping someday you''ll be able to reunite those stones into their original setting...It looks like a lovely ring!

To be honest, secretly, I really wanted to set the ring with its original diamonds. However, my mother had a special relationship with her grandmother, so I did not feel right taking the original diamonds. I suggested she use the 22 smaller diamonds to update her wedding set and then use the original center diamond to make a pendant. She of course protested, but she grew into the idea and is now excited about her jewelry projects. She never does anything special like this for herself, so I am happy for her.

Don''t get me wrong, one of my long term goals will be to restore this setting with its original diamonds.

 

[Catmom]

Date: 12/7/2007 11:41:25 AM
Author:omieluv

Since this setting is antique, I browsed through Fay Cullen for inspiration and found several antique/vintage settings containing aquamarine, which seems to speak to me. Additionally, I conducted a search via PS and found that the color of Catmom''s aqua stone in her pendant is just beautiful. So, I suppose I am looking for a 6mm round aquamarine that is ''deep blue'' to I guess a medium ''deep blue.'' My local jeweler estimates the cost of the type of aqua I want to be anywhere from $400-500 (Chicago area). They did not have any stones on hand and mentioned calling sources in the city, not sure what that means, but we shall see. However, I do not want to be limited to my local jeweler, so I am wondering if anyone can suggest reputable online vendors to contact.

Awww, thanks Omieluv!! I think an aqua would look wonderful in your setting!

 

[widget]

Date: 12/7/2007 11:57:34 AM
Author: Chrono
Omie,
Gemstones tend to run a bit deeper, so I am going to search according to size of the original diamond dimensions: 5.90 X5.83 X 3.4mm to be sure that it will fit into the current setting. The aqua may well be smaller than 6 mm in order to fit your setting. My favourite vendors are:
www.winkjones.com
www.diamondexpert.com
www.acstones.com
Normally I''d suggest www.ajsgems.com but for a small aqua it may not be worth going overseas.
www.whitesgems.com but he''s a cutter and may not have one available at the moment

Wink and Gary (the first two) will be able to source stones for you that are not listed on their website.

Actually I think dealing directly with a cutter is the best idea. It can be fun being involved in the whole process, including the choosing of the rough.

widget

 

[omieluv]

Date: 12/10/2007 2:09:40 PM
Author: widget

Actually I think dealing directly with a cutter is the best idea. It can be fun being involved in the whole process, including the choosing of the rough.

widget

Good point Widget, I just sent Whitegems an e-mail! Thanks!

 

[omieluv]

Date: 12/10/2007 1:58:18 PM
Author: Catmom
Awww, thanks Omieluv!! I think an aqua would look wonderful in your setting!

Thanks Michelle. Wink just responded and said that it will be difficult for him to find an aqua in the color I am looking (the color of your aqua) for in the size I need, but he is going to try. I was prepared to hear that, as this challenge has been mentioned in previous threads, but I am not in a rush.

 

[Harriet]

This blue?: http://www.paraibainternational.com/product_info.php?product=1905 Call and see if they have a single that meets your specs.

 

[omieluv]

Date: 12/10/2007 6:52:45 PM
Author: Harriet
This blue?: http://www.paraibainternational.com/product_info.php?product=1905 Call and see if they have a single that meets your specs.

You have managed to read my mind, as the level of blue present in each stone you linked to me is ideal. I will reach out to Pariaba shortly, perhaps they will have a single close in color. Thanks so much!

 

[omieluv]

Wink has been working with Richard Homer to find a nice aqua for me. Apparently Richard had just enough rough aqua from a mine in Madagascar, which is now closed & has been able to cut it to 6mm with his signature cut. Wink said the picture he has does not do this stone justice, but I wanted to post a picture anyways and get some opinions.

 

[chrono]

That picture looks pretty bad but I know RH does NOT cut ugly stones and refuses to even touch bad looking rough. I am inclined to give the benefit of the doubt to Wink and Richard. I''d get the stone shipped over to see it in person. Knowing Richard''s concave stones, all of them look tons better in person than in pictures.

 

[surfgirl]

omie, I know this isn''t a popular opinion around here...but I dont care for RH cuts. They''re way too busy for my eye. That said, I also dont think they look appropriate for an antique ring setting. I think you need chunkier, old school faceting in order for the center stone to look appropriate to, and compliment your lovely vintage setting. My opinion, of course, but that''s what I think. I still think a cornflower blue sapphire would look the most "authentic" in your setting since it''s of a certain time period. In those days, I think it was far more common to pair blue sapphires with a setting like yours, rather than an aqua, but again, that''s just my aesthetic opinion. Love the setting!

 

[Catmom]

Omie, I''m with surfgirl in that I personally don''t like the concave cuts and I don''t think it fits with a vintage setting like you have. The color of the stone seems more grey than blue on my monitor but I also know that you really need to see colored stones in person before really judging them. I also know that Wink and Richard wouldn''t send a bad stone so I''m hoping for you that it turns out to be gorgeous!

 

[monarch64]

Omie...I have no advice to give you without asking you to come see me, so I hope you find what you are looking for. I think you''ve been given sage advice on this thread so far, but I do have to say that I adore RH''s cuts...I think one of his would be perfect for your ring. To me, aqua''s need a little more life sometimes, esp in a vintage setting. JMO.

 

[omieluv]

Chrono - thanks for the advice regarding this stone. Yes, the picture Wink sent to me is horrible and I do agree that RH and Wink would not endorse a "bad" stone. I should probably connect with Wink to figure out a way for him to either send me better pictures, or just send me the stone. It would also help to learn the price on this stone...

Surfgirl & Catmom - Both points well taken on the cut & color! I too think a cornflower blue sapphire would be simply dazzling in the setting, as well as appropriate for the time period. However, after some investigation, I found that the price on a sapphire of that color would be too cost prohibitive for me at this point. As for the cut, well, I was thinking along the same thought of Monnie in that the concave cut would spice up the color of the aqua. However (this will please you Surfgirl & possibly Catmom), after my mom has had her fun with it in the pendant, I plan to one day return the original diamond to the setting. Oh yes and Surfgirl, I really do value your advice, as I am simply loving the quality of my Bedat, thanks for kicking me in the pants on that one!!

Monnie - I have always thought that RH cuts were interesting, and agree with your point about it adding further interest to the aqua. Of course, I will need to inspect the stone before making any decision & perhaps I can get better pictures of it and post them here. If it does not work out with this particular stone, I would love to come see you...

 

[surfgirl]

omie, you DID get the Bedat?!? Excellent! Have you looked at the NSC site for sapphires? Honestly? I''d go for a less expensive blue sapphire over an aqua in that ring any day...it just screams for a sapphire...

 

[omieluv]

Date: 12/27/2007 11:02:15 PM
Author: surfgirl
omie, you DID get the Bedat?!? Excellent! Have you looked at the NSC site for sapphires? Honestly? I'd go for a less expensive blue sapphire over an aqua in that ring any day...it just screams for a sapphire...

OMG, I ordered the Bedat months ago and have been enjoying it!!

Wink just quoted me a price, which I think is a bit high for an aquamarine. Of course, this is not your "typical" light blue aqua, so I understand why it would cost more. Also, I am sure that a RH cut will add to the cost as well. Wink said he wants to set something up with me to view the stone online, which I am interested in doing b/c I do not want to pass it over just yet. Part of my apprehension regarding the price resulted from viewing sapphires on the NSC site. Of course, I have no idea what I am looking at in terms of color & quality, but much of their sapphires in the less than 1ct area were less expensive than the price of the aqua was.

The adventure continues...

 

[omieluv]

Okay, just had a video conference with Wink. From what I could tell, the stone is much more brilliant in color than the photo he provided me with earlier. I could not detect any grey or green in the stone either & Wink believes it has not been heat treated. He also showed me another stone he has from Pala, which is also very nice, but it does have more green in it than the RH stone, not to mention a bit of a window. From the looks of it, the blue on the RH stone reminds me more of a pale sapphire, not as blue as what we would think of as a Ceylon, but rather deeper blue than a typical aqua. My enabling mother was able to watch the conference with me & she really liked the RH stone, so we will be speaking about it further this weekend. I feel she should be part of this decision, since the setting is from her grandmother. Anyway, I will probably ask Wink to send me the stone for inspection sometime next week, pictures to follow...

 

[Catmom]

Omie, I''m so glad you were able to get a better idea of what the stone really looks like and that your Mom likes it! I hope when you get it next week that it turns out to be "the one!"