The creation of a yellow diamond ring...

[Lakjo1]

Well I've been in the process on this ring for a while now, and I've made enough progress to share the initial results...

So my GF wants a yellow diamond engagement ring, and when this all began I knew little to nothing about what that meant. I didn't have much in the way of "suggestions" to work with, but she has indicated a preference for a halo setting, a cushion cut and a split shank with pave set diamonds. Armed with that and little more, I set out to learn... Two months (and many websites) later, I knew that I wanted a Fancy Yellow (or better) stone, a rectangular shape, at least 10mm in the long dimension, and no visible (especially no black) inclusions. I also knew I wanted a GIA cert.

Step one: Find the center stone.

After many inquiries, Wonder Jewelers in L.A. gave me the best price and selection, and Tony was great to work with as he presented multiple options.

From his offerings, (and with some great advice from several folks on this thread) I selected a Fancy Yellow 5.0 CT SI1 rectangular cushion-cut. Measurements: 10.38 x 8.68 x 6.18 mm GIA certified with Very Good polish and symmetry and no fluorescence.

Beautiful lemon yellow face-up color, and little to no "windowing" as it rotates...

 

[Lakjo1]

Step Two: Setting
This is where it gets complicated... She has stated a preference for a more modern setting if it's a yellow diamond, but an antique setting if its a white diamond. Hmmm... What Tony helped me come up with is a combination of the two, which looks like this:



It looks like a pretty modern split-shank halo when viewed from the top, but more antique/old-school from the side

The custom modifications not shown in the 3D are as follows:
- There will be fancy yellow stones set on each face in the bezel at the top of the scroll work (rather than the white stones shown here)
- The halo will be a U-pave setting, which gives a nice scalloped look
- There will be hand engraving and mill grain on the lower portion of the shank (which looks plain in the CAD). A sample of that is below.



Step 3: Basket or open?
What we decided was to have an 18k yellow gold basket beneath the stone, but to leave a small opening to allow for drainage when the ring is cleaned. Kind of maximizes the pros of yellow gold behind the stone while minimizing the con of cleaning requirements.

That's as far as I've made it on this journey, but the ring is being produced as I type this, and I can't wait to post some pics once it arrives!

 

[Vogue]

I *love* yellow diamonds, and your fiancee seems like one lucky lady! This is an amazing start and you're going to end up with a beautiful ring.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I'd make the shank rounded and not euro if you plan to get her a wedding band. The wedding band will be round, I assume, and that just wouldn't feel or look right to me to have the euro shank unless she specifically requested it. The inside edges of that shank need to be softened to comfort fit, to. The only other issue I see is that it will be really hard to wear a wedding band with it at all with that profile design. A wedding band will rub against it and ruin it. So this ring, as it is now, is really best as a standalone ring.

Also, the diamonds on the split shank should come down to below the V. There should be milgrain edges around the halo and shank. There are other improvements that could be made, but those are some of them.

 

[Lakjo1]

I'd make the shank rounded and not euro if you plan to get her a wedding band. The wedding band will be round, I assume, and that just wouldn't feel or look right to me to have the euro shank unless she specifically requested it. The inside edges of that shank need to be softened to comfort fit, to. The only other issue I see is that it will be really hard to wear a wedding band with it at all with that profile design. A wedding band will rub against it and ruin it. So this ring, as it is now, is really best as a standalone ring.

Also, the diamonds on the split shank should come down to below the V. There should be milgrain edges around the halo and shank. There are other improvements that could be made, but those are some of them.

Thanks for the feedback...

It won't actually be a euro shank...that photo is just to give a sense of the milgrain and engraving. It will definitely be a rounded shank, and comfort fit on the inner surface.

The halo will be a U-pave setting (see the photo), so no milgrain there, but it will definitely have milgrain on the shank all the way around (the CAD file and this photo show it as plain, but it will be modified).

The diamonds will actually come below the V. The photo shows it more clearly...



As for the wedding band, I'm having a custom band with pave set diamonds made with a "matched-curve" top to better fit alongside the split shank and halo.

I would love to hear your other suggestions!
Thanks!

 

[Lakjo1]

This isn't exactly right for how the wedding band will be (the curve is too gradual), but it gives an idea of what it will look like.

 

[Bsmom]

That's going to be perfect. She will love it

 

[ariel144]

That's quite a honker....going to be beautiful...can't wait to see the hand shots!

 

[Lakjo1]

Quick update...

In the spirit of documenting the process, wanted to share the 3D wax version of the ring, which is finished. They will be casting the ring body today...

 

[Vogue]

So exciting!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Okay, I understand about the e-ring now! I'd personally prefer the same kind of pave on the halo and the shank, but that's certainly your choice.

But I have one very strong opinion and that is to make a straight wedding band. Unless you are going to solder the two rings together, that band won't stay in place all the time and even if you didn't, she'd never be able to wear the band alone or stacked with another band due to the curve. You'll need a low spacer band between the two rings anyway to keep them from rubbing each other. Many people here have halo engagement rings but almost always choose a straight wedding band.

 

[Lakjo1]

Okay, I understand about the e-ring now! I'd personally prefer the same kind of pave on the halo and the shank, but that's certainly your choice.

But I have one very strong opinion and that is to make a straight wedding band. Unless you are going to solder the two rings together, that band won't stay in place all the time and even if you didn't, she'd never be able to wear the band alone or stacked with another band due to the curve. You'll need a low spacer band between the two rings anyway to keep them from rubbing each other. Many people here have halo engagement rings but almost always choose a straight wedding band.

Thanks for the follow-up... Based on your input (and that of several other people I've talked with on this topic) I've decided that it's probably best to let her choose the wedding ring. It's harder to get it wrong if I just don't make a choice...

 

[diamondseeker2006]

That's an excellent idea! A lot of people don't think of the issues with a certain kind of band because they've never had one! So just keep that in mind when she tries on bands. I do think you had the right idea to match the shank of the ering, though, but just to make it straight.

 

[Lakjo1]

That's an excellent idea! A lot of people don't think of the issues with a certain kind of band because they've never had one! So just keep that in mind when she tries on bands. I do think you had the right idea to match the shank of the ering, though, but just to make it straight.

So something like this?

 

[Matthews1127]

Beautiful! The color is gorgeous! I agree: straight band. I doubt she will ever CHOOSE not to wear her e-ring, but there may be occasions that influence her NOT to wear it. She will need a wedding band that stands alone, without looking like something's missing.
Great job!!
CRM

 

[Catmom]

Thanks for the follow-up... Based on your input (and that of several other people I've talked with on this topic) I've decided that it's probably best to let her choose the wedding ring. It's harder to get it wrong if I just don't make a choice...

Firstly congrats on this project. it will be beautiful! You are making a wise choice in letting her find her band. Finding the perfect band for rings of this type is very difficult and can take trying on many bands before finding the right one. It took me quite awhile to find mine.

 

[ILikeShiny]

Oh my... what a gorgeous ring this will be! Looking forward to seeing the complete project as well as hand photos after you propose!