Article - 10 products that revolutionized jewelry

[Lady_Disdain]

So, do you agree that these 10 products revolutionized jewelry? Would you remove any or add any?

http://www.jckonline.com/2012/01/05/10-products-that-revolutionized-jewelry-trade

The article has a very customer centered point of view, ignoring some amazing things like CAD/CAM. I would also not include David Yurman!

 

[Imdanny]

"Consider the ubiquity of micro-pavé. But no one does the original metal-obscuring design better than—or trademarked it before—Van Cleef & Arpels"

That was a patent not a trademark. Numerous entries have errors of basic knowledge.

 

[texaskj]

I have to say I'm a tad underwhelmed by that list. I have to agree with you Lady D.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

"Consider the ubiquity of micro-pavé. But no one does the original metal-obscuring design better than—or trademarked it before—Van Cleef & Arpels"

That was a patent not a trademark. Numerous entries have errors of basic knowledge.

The technique is patented, I agree, but the name itself (serti mysterieux)is probably trademarked as well - covering all the ground. The curious thing is that the text uses both as though they were interchangeable. Copyright, patent, trademark and intellectual rights are really not understood at all.

For a site that is specialized in jewelry, the mistakes overall are glaring.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

How about a Pricescope version of the list?

I would include:

CAD/CAM
CAD/CAM is the use of computer software to model 3D pieces and then use a computer controlled mill to carve the prototype out of wax. This allows great creative control, the ability to create extremely precise models for casting and a wonderful tool for interacting with clients.

Precision cutting
Precision cutting is the use of mathematical principles to maximize the effect of a gem - be it the sparkle of a diamond, the colour of a stone or to create fascinating facet patterns. Based on optical principles and on precision equipment, precision cutting makes sure that all facet angles are as close to ideal as possible, that meet points are exact and all measurements as close to perfect as possible.

In diamonds, this has lead to many branded cuts, such as "Hearts on Fire", "AVC", "Octavia", etc. In coloured stones, this approach has opened the path to a variety of new shapes and patterns. By using computer software, new cuts can be designed and simulated, showing how the finished stone will look and perform, allowing adjustments to be made before the stone is cut.

Gemstone treatment
Gemstone treatments are nothing new. Some, such as oiling, are ages old. However, modern technology and a lot of experiments by "gem cookers" have discovered a lot of new treatments for precious stones. Some are carefully researched, others are brought about by serendipity (such as the oven contamination that lead to BE heated sapphires, with improved colour).

This can be a double edged sword. Treatments have allowed many people to buy much nicer stones at more accessible prices. However, treatments are often not disclosed and a stone is sold fraudulently as "untreated", at much higher prices than warranted. To fight this, the customer should be well educated about the purchase and, for some gems, insist on a report from a reputable lab.

Cultured pearls
Pearls were once the sole domain of the extremely rich. Diving for pearls is fraught with danger and the odds of finding a good quality, natural pearl are not good. The story of how a 5th avenue building was bought with a double strand of pearls illustrate this perfectly.

Cultured pearls, however, have brought pearls to the masses. From inexpensive strands to the highest quality pearls, there are cultured pearls for all tastes and pockets.

Modern alloys
In jewelry, few metals are used pure. In order to get stronger metals with the right characteristics, they are mixed together, to form alloys such as sterling silver (92.5%, 7.5% silver) and 18k gold (75% gold, 25% other metals). These other metals can give subtle colours, better working characteristic, tarnish resistance, etc.

There is a group of elite metalworkers who experiment with these alloys, such as Niessing, who developed extra strong gold alloys for beautiful tension setting. Argentium silver, a sterling silver alloy, uses germanium to increase the resistance to tarnish, an old enemy of silver lovers. Others are created to improve the ease and quality of casting, and are considered a trade secret by the manufacturers.

Surely, alloys have developed a lot since the traditional copper/silver/gold recipes.

Alternative materials
One of the revolutions of Art Nouveau design was the introduction of non traditional, "cheap" materials to jewelry, such as horn. Many of these have become accepted today and would hardly raise an eyebrow. Yet designers continue to push the envelope: rough, uncut gems; new ceramic materials for both jewelry and watches; the use of synthetic stones to create pieces that would be impossible with natural material, etc.

DeBeer's "3 months salary" rule
"A man should spend 3 months salary on an engagement ring" - this "rule" is well known and often cited. It was introduced by DeBeers in order to push engagement rings (although it was only a month's salary originally) and it is still often cited. While many modern men and women question it and set their own budget for their engagement ring (or do without one), the impact of this rule is still present today. Few countries place such importance on a diamond engagement ring as the US, although the trend is growing in many European and Asian countries.

OK, that is 7 What else would you guys add or remove from the list? How about some input from the watch people?

 

[VRBeauty]

I'd add "the internet." The internet has given consumers direct access to both information and products that are changing how people buy jewelry. When I first started buying jewelry, my access was limited by what B&M shops and artisans near me carried or were doing. (I was fortunate in that I did have access to a B&M and some craftsmen that stocked more than just the traditional designs and gemstones, but that's another story). Today, I can purchase a gemstone directly from cutters in the far East, or from domestic precision cutters, and work with artisans located pretty much anywhere to have that stone incorporated into a unique piece of jewelry. The internet has put a wide variety of gemstones (including diamonds) and custom jewelry design within reach of the average consumer.

 

[JewelFreak]

Interesting topic, Lady D. I like your list better than the one in the article. More to-the-point.

I'd add all the instrumentation, which could be named individually, but in the aggregate affords the gem world so much more knowledge about stones in general & individually -- from the ability to see interior fissures, stress points, inclusions, etc., for less-wasteful & better cutting; to determining a gem's chemical makeup, where it originated, even what variety it is, for more precise classification (e.g., the Black Prince's "ruby," which is a spinel); the routine faceting of tiny tiny stones, impossible without the aids available today. Also enables detection of undisclosed treatment & synthetics, the ongoing battle. These tools have brought gemology to a demanding scientific area of expertise and at the same time allowed gem-cutting artistry to bloom.