Bezel-ing Rhodolite/Umbalite Garnet - pls help with first project!

[arjunajane]

So, ,
thanks to Gypsy drawing my attention to the wonderful Sally from Nam Chai Jewels, I'm intent to tackle my first coloured stone project asap, as I've totally fallen for her work!

I have a couple of varied questions, and would love to enlist the stoners' help

Does anyone envision a problem with bezel setting a royal rhodolite or umbalite garnet in the ring below? Will it potentially darken too much? Anything else to be concerned about?

Second question...who to go to for the stone? I'm after that really yummy, royal raspberry jelly, strong pinky/red colour - the best example I can think of is babyblues' pendant, but perhaps slightly lighter even..? Obviously it needs to be round, but beyond that I am open to different or modified RB cuts .

Question 3 - umm, what is the difference between umbalite and rhodolite?

Also, is this a stone that will have much brilliance? Being a diamond girl (so far), I can only guess I'm attracted to the brilliance/fire - I really don't want a stone that is "flat" (for lack of a more technical term) - am I looking in the wrong place with garnets? Should I consider tourmaline instead, or something else?

My apologies, I know its alot of questions, lol..but only one way to learn! Also, if anybody has some great ideas for stone options for this ring I would love to hear it - I am pretty much open colour-wise.

Thankyou all in advance !

picture..

 

[ma re]

Will the stone darken too much - depends on the stone in question. Every natural stone is slightly (even just on a michroscopic level) diferent from all others so you have to specify the color. In general, any stone will darken to a degree once bezeled and if it''s already darker in tone as a loose stone it will probably end up too dark. I''m not sure I remember the pendant you''re refering to, but I will check later.

Now, the stone in the picture is either some variation of a rose cut, or has a reeeeealy high crown

If you''d like a similar cut (something high off the finger), bezel won''t have that big of an effect, but if you''d like some more traditional cut in a usual bezel, think twice with anything remotely dark.

I can''t recommend a vendor or answer the technical question of the difference between umbalite and rhodolite, so I''ll skip those.

Garnets are generally one of the most brilliant gemstone varieties, so if you''re after something sparkly, you''re on the right track. They also come in all colors imaginable (except blue), so you won''t have problems finding the right one (tourmalines are not as brilliant BTW, unless cut very precisely by good cutters). You''re right about avoiding stones without much life to them (the term is scintillation), but they actually exist in all gemstone varieties and are a result of lousy cutting (they can be found even among garnets, but not as often as with some other stones).

Regarding other options, check out:
- fancy sapphires (available in all colors except red)
- spinels (available in pink, red, lilac, purple, blue and sometimes orange)
- or if you don''t intend to wear the ring too much (and don''t mind being a bit careful) zircon - available in all colors except maybe purple.

All those (and ruby, if you have a larger budget) can be very lively, brilliant and colorful.

 

[Pandora II]

I recommend talking to Rick Martin at ArtCutGems - I have one of his Royal Rhodalites and it is an incredible stone.

Garnets are a specific interest of his, so you will find him very helpful.

PS. Most of his stock is not on the website!

 

[arjunajane]

Thankyou both ma re and Pandora for the replies.

Ma re, I noticed that about the onyx thats in the ring - I would definately be going for a more traditional RB, or maybe a roundish cushion if the jeweller thinks it will work

Its a bit late here, but I just wanted to post the pics I''ve come across of babyblue''s pendant and ring (I hope you don''t mind babyblue!), and also of other stones that best indicate the colour I''m seeking.
Ma re, I was also thinking of maybe a purpley-pink spinel such as this White''s one - do you know would garnet or spinel typically be more expensive, or will it all just depend?

many thanks!

babyblue''s gorgeous ring

And equally pretty pendant

 

[Pandora II]

Pink spinel will probably cost you more, but it does depend on the relative qualities of each particular stone.

I don''t set most of my stones, so I can''t help on the setting I''m afraid.

 

[coatimundi_org]

Yes, spinel will run you more. I like the rhodolite idea. Is Sally's setting above the one you're going with? I don't think there would be too much of an issue with darkening, as the stone will sit up in those prongs, as opposed to a full bezel. I think that will look lovely with a rhodolite in yellow gold.

Babyblue's stone was cut by Gene at http://www.precisiongem.com/html/html/Garnets.html, I believe. If you like that color, he might have more rough. It's a lovely color!

 

[Fly Girl]

Date: 1/5/2009 1:39:09 PM
Author: coatimundi
Yes, spinel will run you more. I like the rhodolite idea. Is Sally''s setting above the one you''re going with? I don''t think there would be too much of an issue with darkening, as the stone will sit up in those prongs, as opposed to a full bezel. I think that will look lovely with a rhodolite in yellow gold.

Babyblue''s stone was cut by Gene at http://www.precisiongem.com/html/html/Garnets.html, I believe. If you like that color, he might have more rough. It''s a lovely color!

I got an umbalite from Gene after seeing babyblue''s ring, and my jeweler recommended a setting which allows light in through the back of the stone. However, when I block the stone from the bottom with my fingers (not sure if this is a fair representation of a bezel or not), the flashes of light look pretty much the same to me. So, I would think you could bezel set a well-cut garnet, and be happy with the results.

BTW, it''s my understanding that an umbalite is a rhodolite from the Umba Valley in Tanzania.

 

[LD]

Agree with Fly Girl - Umbalites are from the Umba Valley but are a Rhodolite Garnet.

I have 3 and they are all different in tone and scintillation. I have only set one of them so far and it was a reasonably dark stone to begin with but surrounded by diamonds it has taken on a vibrancy that I didn''t think was possible and it''s a real "WOW" looker to me! The back of the setting is semi-enclosed (the LOGR legacyesque setting). The colour of the one I''ve had set is marginally darker than Brown Eyed Girls.

I agree with the others that I don''t think the ring you''ve chosen would necessarily darken the gemstone BUT you need to start with a well cut, well saturated one in the first place. I know that sounds obvious but they really do vary in tone. I have one that is more a rose pink and I''m not as keen as the two that are hot red/pink/purple.

 

[arjunajane]

Thankyou Pandora and Coati

Coats, I have emailed Gene and a couple others, fingers crossed they will have something nice

Yes, that was the ring from Sally I was thinking about doing, maybe with one or two *small* modifications - in your opinion, do you think only a RB cut will work in this setting? I was thinking of maybe requesting a rounded-cushion style, kinda like the J White one above..(mainly because everything I have is an RB, so would like some variety

).

In your opinion do you think this could work?

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 1/5/2009 2:37:43 PM
Author: Fly Girl

Date: 1/5/2009 1:39:09 PM
Author: coatimundi
Yes, spinel will run you more. I like the rhodolite idea. Is Sally''s setting above the one you''re going with? I don''t think there would be too much of an issue with darkening, as the stone will sit up in those prongs, as opposed to a full bezel. I think that will look lovely with a rhodolite in yellow gold.

Babyblue''s stone was cut by Gene at http://www.precisiongem.com/html/html/Garnets.html, I believe. If you like that color, he might have more rough. It''s a lovely color!

I got an umbalite from Gene after seeing babyblue''s ring, and my jeweler recommended a setting which allows light in through the back of the stone. However, when I block the stone from the bottom with my fingers (not sure if this is a fair representation of a bezel or not), the flashes of light look pretty much the same to me. So, I would think you could bezel set a well-cut garnet, and be happy with the results.

BTW, it''s my understanding that an umbalite is a rhodolite from the Umba Valley in Tanzania.

Hey flygirl,

Thankyou for the info - I''m pretty sure this setting is open under the stone, so hopefully that will help.
Also cheers for the clarification

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 1/5/2009 2:53:04 PM
Author: LovingDiamonds
Agree with Fly Girl - Umbalites are from the Umba Valley but are a Rhodolite Garnet.

I have 3 and they are all different in tone and scintillation. I have only set one of them so far and it was a reasonably dark stone to begin with but surrounded by diamonds it has taken on a vibrancy that I didn''t think was possible and it''s a real ''WOW'' looker to me! The back of the setting is semi-enclosed (the LOGR legacyesque setting). The colour of the one I''ve had set is marginally darker than Brown Eyed Girls.

I agree with the others that I don''t think the ring you''ve chosen would necessarily darken the gemstone BUT you need to start with a well cut, well saturated one in the first place. I know that sounds obvious but they really do vary in tone. I have one that is more a rose pink and I''m not as keen as the two that are hot red/pink/purple.

Hi LD,

I love your garnet from Gene! Thats exactly the colour I''m after, that mixture of purple, pink and red. I really like the "zoning" (is that the word?) in your one too.



Can I ask a general question of anyone - with requesting a custom gemstone cut, what happens if when its finished its too small, or the colours not right,etc - are you still obliged to purchase it?
I presume all cutters will have different policies, I''m just wondering if there is a general wisdom on this..?

 

[marcy]

I like the idea of a rhodolite and I think it would look lovely in that setting.

 

[coatimundi_org]

Date: 1/5/2009 8:24:57 PM
Author: arjunajane
Thankyou Pandora and Coati

Coats, I have emailed Gene and a couple others, fingers crossed they will have something nice

Yes, that was the ring from Sally I was thinking about doing, maybe with one or two *small* modifications - in your opinion, do you think only a RB cut will work in this setting? I was thinking of maybe requesting a rounded-cushion style, kinda like the J White one above..(mainly because everything I have is an RB, so would like some variety

).


In your opinion do you think this could work?

Hi Sweets!

I think a cushion would be lovely! I bet she could modify the design for you--especially since it''s handmade. Why not just go for a full on cushion shape? Or do you prefer a rounded cushion? If all of your pieces are rb, then I vote for something different.

This is going to be one lovely ring!

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 1/5/2009 10:17:21 PM
Author: coatimundi

Date: 1/5/2009 8:24:57 PM
Author: arjunajane
Thankyou Pandora and Coati

Coats, I have emailed Gene and a couple others, fingers crossed they will have something nice

Yes, that was the ring from Sally I was thinking about doing, maybe with one or two *small* modifications - in your opinion, do you think only a RB cut will work in this setting? I was thinking of maybe requesting a rounded-cushion style, kinda like the J White one above..(mainly because everything I have is an RB, so would like some variety

).


In your opinion do you think this could work?

Hi Sweets!

I think a cushion would be lovely! I bet she could modify the design for you--especially since it''s handmade. Why not just go for a full on cushion shape? Or do you prefer a rounded cushion? If all of your pieces are rb, then I vote for something different.

This is going to be one lovely ring!

hey Stoner !

Its settled, cushion it is then, lol

See, I just needed a lil push..

I really hope someone can find the rough for this one - the last time I wanted a blue/violet spinel cut for an LOGR legacy we had to give up

Kepp your fingers crossed for me!

 

[loriken214]

Hi AJ!

Your project sounds AMAZING!

Just wanted to let you know that I''m currently working on a custom project with Sally. She''s going to set one of my pink asscher stones into a white gold Lotus ring. This will be a first for her and she loved the idea. I thought the pink would really show up since it will be sitting up in prongs. Here is the Lotus ring with a moonstone in yellow gold.

Sorry to be a threadhog, but I wanted to show you what Sally is going to do with me.

Lori

 

[loriken214]

This is the rubelite tourmaline asscher that Sally will set for me.

Lori

 

[ma re]

With the color you''re after, you really don''t have to worry about bezel darkening it too much. You can also specify that to a cutter, just to make sure the stone doesen''t end darker than planned due to cutting. But with a good work by a cutter and that shade of color, you''ll end up with a sparkler

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 1/6/2009 6:20:30 AM
Author: loriken214
Hi AJ!

Your project sounds AMAZING!

Just wanted to let you know that I''m currently working on a custom project with Sally. She''s going to set one of my pink asscher stones into a white gold Lotus ring. This will be a first for her and she loved the idea. I thought the pink would really show up since it will be sitting up in prongs. Here is the Lotus ring with a moonstone in yellow gold.

Sorry to be a threadhog, but I wanted to show you what Sally is going to do with me.

Lori

Hi Lori,
not at all please post anything - I love the lotus ring!
Thats gonna be incredible - I know Sally is excited about these custom projects. She mentioned that she hasn''t had customers request to se their own stones before, until this week she''s had like four, lol..I told her that''s how us PS''ers roll,

Does she think the square shape will fit ok into the setting, or will you be changing it much?

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 1/6/2009 7:09:26 AM
Author: ma re
With the color you''re after, you really don''t have to worry about bezel darkening it too much. You can also specify that to a cutter, just to make sure the stone doesen''t end darker than planned due to cutting. But with a good work by a cutter and that shade of color, you''ll end up with a sparkler

Hey ma re, thankyou. I''ve got Gene on the job, I''m confident in his rough and cutting from what I''ve seen from others'' stones.
I''m very hopeful of this project.




And just for some eye-candy, here is a mint green tourmaline I''ve purchased from Dan, and should hopefully have soon.
He reckons the colour IRL is very similiar to a merelani mint garnet, which I love - so very excited.

Yay for my first serious coloured stone purchase !

 

[arjunajane]

IT''S HERRREEE!!!

Um..yeah..It''s here, and its GORGEOUS!

And of course, its impossible to photograph, lol..
I''ve done my best, I will have to try some more later..
I *wish* you guys could see it in person - the cut , the size, the colour - its sooo pretty!

Also, I never should''ve been worried about bezel-ing it - when I cup my hands around the stone (cheers for the advice

), it actually completely lights up from within, and looks a shade or two brighter.
I love it!

Please bare with me with the average pics..I''m open to tips?

Inside in afternoon sunlight, cupped by hand..

 

[arjunajane]

outside in sun, again cupped..

 

[arjunajane]

Outside in shaded sunlight..

 

[arjunajane]

outside in shaded sunlight..

 

[arjunajane]

Whoops, sorry having internet probs..

last one,

I will try for some better pics, but I think I''m gonna send ''im off to Sally asap - I can''t wait to be able to wear it!

 

[ma re]

The stone is wonderful! Can we have some stats (weight, dimensions...)? It''ll be great in that setting, I''m sure. BTW, are you thinking yellow gold (hope so)? It could really give that extra something to the color, make it even richer.

 

[arjunajane]

Oy yoi - of course, stats - sacrilege! ha

Thanks m.m.r!
It is a cushion umbalite, 3.1cts and 8.62mm - originally I had wanted ~7mm, but now I'm glad that Gene cut it bigger - its gonna have a real presence me thinks .

Gene says it is colour 5 and clarity 4+ .(whatever those mean, lol - I just know it looks awesome IRL)!.

It is most definately going into Yellow gold - yessir! It will be into the setting we were discussing in this thread.
Sorry its a bit all-over-the-place

 

[arjunajane]

Here''s a couple more pics..

While I have you here, any instructions on how to care for/clean it?

 

[arjunajane]

and on my hand for perspective - pls excuse the nails, I promise they don''t look that loud in person,lol!

 

[ma re]

Date: 1/28/2009 4:19:50 AM
Author: arjunajane
Here''s a couple more pics..

While I have you here, any instructions on how to care for/clean it?

I''m no expert, but I believe this should be done just like with any other stone - mild, soapy watter every now and then, and a gentle toothbrush of course. Not sure about ultrasonics although they might be OK; check out with a jeweller. Oh, btw, hope you remember garnets aren''t extremly hard so don''t store it with other stones (especially if you have a lot of cubic zirconias - who doesen''t, these days?) or it might get scratched - or even scratch others, like pearls, jades, amber, coral, turquoise...

Yeah, I completely forgot it''s for THAT setting - so you gave up on the onyx one here? Sorry, my brain is slow sometimes and I''m also watching Australian Open while wondering around PS so...

An interesting nail polish indeed - does it glow in the dark?

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 1/28/2009 4:44:45 AM
Author: ma re

Date: 1/28/2009 4:19:50 AM
Author: arjunajane
Here's a couple more pics..

While I have you here, any instructions on how to care for/clean it?

I'm no expert, but I believe this should be done just like with any other stone - mild, soapy watter every now and then, and a gentle toothbrush of course. Not sure about ultrasonics although they might be OK; check out with a jeweller. Oh, btw, hope you remember garnets aren't extremly hard so don't store it with other stones (especially if you have a lot of cubic zirconias - who doesen't, these days?) or it might get scratched - or even scratch others, like pearls, jades, amber, coral, turquoise...

Yeah, I completely forgot it's for THAT setting - so you gave up on the onyx one here? Sorry, my brain is slow sometimes and I'm also watching Australian Open while wondering around PS so...

An interesting nail polish indeed - does it glow in the dark?

Ha ha ma re

I promise, its more of a dark reddish pink IRL! - darn cameras, grumble..

Thanks for the advice - actually I don't own one CZ - should I.?

Ya, gave up on the one with the onyx as soon as I decided to go custom - I'm pretty sure I've got a design figured out, but of course I'm going to wait for the jeweller's input.

Here's a couple more pics, just for fun - most likely I'll send her off tomorrow, so gotta have fun while I can right?!

Group shot - my meagre collection ...

Precision Gem Umbalite 3.1cts, Dan Stair mint tourmaline 1.3ct, and Gemrite violet spinel 0.35cts..