Which stone to set with my emeralds?

[voce]

I have a gorgeous pair of emeralds from when Inken did emerald hunting for my mandarin duck ring last year, but I keep waffling with which gem I set with them. I guess I have issues with all three stones.

The Mahenge spinel cushion is close in color to the Mahenge heart spinel that I'm going to set as a crown ring with paraiba and diamond. However, the cut of the Mahenge spinel is slightly asymmetric, and if I set it as the center stone in a simple 3-Adobe design, I'm afraid the asymmetry will be more apparent. The Mahenge spinel shifts color and doesn't look as good under LED lighting.

My concerns about the amethyst are that it's a relatively cheap gem to pair with a $1k pair of duck neck emeralds, and the low RI makes for less brilliance.

The Burma spinel is cut more symmetrically. There's inclusions in the pavilion that affect the light return, and it's not neon like the Mahenge spinel, but it's color shifts less, so it'll look like a Christmas ring with the emeralds.

So now I'm hoping to hear from other PSers which stone I should use. You're free to suggest other stones apart from the ones I have. Also note that I'm pretty set on yellow gold for this ring.

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

Color-wise I prefer the mahenge spinel cushion. It reminds me of a rose! But I'm not a fan of the stark contrast between the shape of the center vs. the sides. I'd love to see the emeralds with an emerald cut rose or raspberry colored spinel!

 

[Autumn in New England]

I can see why you're torn on this! It is indeed a difficult decision. So here are my two cents... I like the emeralds best with the cushion Mahenge. If the mild asymmetry bothers you, I feel like your lapidary could nip the girdle slightly without having to recut. I had it done on a cushion rubellite with the same problem, and it turned out beautifully. My lap didn't even charge me.

A case could also be made for the Burma spinel, as the deeper tone is similar to the emeralds, and, as you said, it might be a nice holiday piece.

With regard to the amethyst, personally I have no problem setting more expensive gems with cheaper ones, as long as the quality is there. Amethyst doesn't get a lot of love these days from collectors, but, IMO, it is still one of the most beautiful purple gems (along with sapphire)!!

Finally, and as an outlier option, I think these emeralds would look great with a step cut rubellite in yellow gold. I always match the cut of my side stones with the main stone (brilliant v. step), but that's not a hard and fast rule. Good luck!!

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

Oh! And maybe the cushion could be set in a way that camouflages the asymmetry well.

 

[Daisys and Diamonds]

My first ever so fleeting thought was the amethyst just for the colour contrast - but then i like you i thought if the $$$ difference
How sad to be sad we live in a time of cheap plentiful amethysts when these gems used to be so highly valued back when they were scarce
i often wish the mall jewlers here would put them into nicer settings, not just the cheapest ugly ones


so them im with the cushion spinal too
just for the shape
But if its not going to be mind clean for you and the symmetricalness will bug yoi it might be money ill spent

Could something be done with the setting to even it all up for the eye ?

 

[voce]

Sorry if this was too soon to announce a decision, before all of you had the chance to give input. Inken had the brilliant idea of doing a toi et moi. The size, shape and intensity of color of the Burma spinel appealed to me more than the Mahenge spinel. I am now thinking to set the Mahenge spinel with a pair of shield diamonds.

 

[AnastasiaBeaverhausen]

Sorry if this was too soon to announce a decision, before all of you had the chance to give input. Inken had the brilliant idea of doing a toi et moi. The size, shape and intensity of color of the Burma spinel appealed to me more than the Mahenge spinel. I am now thinking to set the Mahenge spinel with a pair of shield diamonds.

Heck yeah to the Mahenge cushion with shield diamonds!

 

[Autumn in New England]

Brilliant! Can't wait to see the finished pieces!!

 

[qubitasaurus]

If you're exploring bookending the emeralds with other gems then why not consider a lariat necklace? I think the fact that the spinels are not a perfect match may not matter in a lariat design. You may be able to tile emeralds, shield daimonds and spinels -- although I'm not sure what the shield daimonds would look like next to the emeralds.

 

[dk168]

Personally I am not a fan of mixing cuts especially for step cuts.

Therefore, I am not keen on the 3 stones chosen.

I would prefer to wait and find a nice step cut glowy red centre stone worthy of the lovely Emeralds.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK

 

[voce]

If you're exploring bookending the emeralds with other gems then why not consider a lariat necklace? I think the fact that the spinels are not a perfect match may not matter in a lariat design. You may be able to tile emeralds, shield daimonds and spinels -- although I'm not sure what the shield daimonds would look like next to the emeralds.

I don't wear necklaces very often, and the ones I do enjoy wearing tend to be heavy, such as breaded jade. I found myself giving away my necklaces, since I wear them less than my rings and bangles.

The two spinels are not going into the same design. The Mahenge spinel is going to go with the shield diamonds. The Burma spinel and the amethyst will go with the emeralds, and quite possibly a couple other diamonds, in a toi et moi design.

Personally I am not a fan of mixing cuts especially for step cuts.

Therefore, I am not keen on the 3 stones chosen.

I would prefer to wait and find a nice step cut glowy red centre stone worthy of the lovely Emeralds.

Personal preferences and all that.

DK

I myself adore how Raymond C. Yard mixed step cuts and brilliant cuts. I find I reach for rings with mixed cuts way more than all round cuts or all step cuts.

Let me show you all my other red gems. Most red gems of the varieties I like (rubies and spinels only) are rounds, ovals, or cushions. I've been trying to acquire whatever I can without spending too much, and in all my years on PS so far I've only come across ONE step cut red I liked, a red spinel from Fine water Gems, and another PSer bought it before me. I'm not going to commission a step cut red, which would cost a lot more than the budget for setting these emeralds.

 

[dk168]

This is my lab step out Ruby from Gary - I just could not resist when I saw it!




DK

 

[voce]

@dk168 your lab ruby is gorgeous, but I don't wear lab gems and would never pair lab gems with earth mined gems.

 

[qubitasaurus]

I don't wear necklaces very often, and the ones I do enjoy wearing tend to be heavy, such as breaded jade. I found myself giving away my necklaces, since I wear them less than my rings and bangles.

The two spinels are not going into the same design. The Mahenge spinel is going to go with the shield diamonds. The Burma spinel and the amethyst will go with the emeralds, and quite possibly a couple other diamonds, in a toi et moi design.



I myself adore how Raymond C. Yard mixed step cuts and brilliant cuts. I find I reach for rings with mixed cuts way more than all round cuts or all step cuts.

Let me show you all my other red gems. Most red gems of the varieties I like (rubies and spinels only) are rounds, ovals, or cushions. I've been trying to acquire whatever I can without spending too much, and in all my years on PS so far I've only come across ONE step cut red I liked, a red spinel from Fine water Gems, and another PSer bought it before me. I'm not going to commission a step cut red, which would cost a lot more than the budget for setting these emeralds.

It makes sense to put it in a design you'll enjoy and wear all the time, so you are right if you're not a necklace person then the ring is a much better idea. You'll also get the benefit of seeing the emeralds all the time, they look lovely so I'm sure this'll be a huge plus.

 

[voce]

The holidays have come early! These vivid saturated colors remind me of metallic wrapping paper . Really love the perfect execution on this toi-et-moi and the rich look of the yellow gold against the gems. Thank you to Inken and her team!

 

[Autumn in New England]

Holy guac! I think it's safe to say you made the right decision. lol Totally unique... monumentally fun. Congrats and enjoy!!

 

[Sprinkles&Stones]

Amazing!!!!

 

[Starstruck8]

These vivid saturated colors remind me of metallic wrapping paper

Yes! They absolutely do!

When I was a little boy, I was fascinated by the metallic foil on Easter eggs. I would try to unwrap it without tearing. Then I would carefully smooth it out with a fingernail. The colours seemed like magic.

The colours of faceted gemstones seem magic for the same reason. The brightness of a direct reflection combined with a highly saturated colour make a 'super-colour' that cannot be produced by any ordinary diffusely reflecting object.

Your ring truly captures the magic.

 

[minousbijoux]

The saturation on each of those stones is so well matched. I normally am not a big fan of mixing colors, but there is something so elegant about this ring. I look forward to your hand shots.

 

[2Neezers]

Gorgeous colors and a beautiful Toi Et Moi design!

 

[voce]

I love the metallic "sheen" of the colored gems. The brilliant cut trapezoid diamonds add a 3D effect, as the sparkles seem to be glimmering from the depths.