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What is the most durable white metal for an Eternity Band?

384123

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
16
What is the best white metal to use for a prong set eternity band? I'm not concerned with the rhodium plating wearing off of white gold, I'm more concerned about durability. I hear that platinum is more malleable, so is white gold a more sturdy metal for holding in small, prong-set diamonds?

Let me know! :)
 

oldminer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Sep 3, 2000
Messages
6,551
The durability is not so much better in white gold or platinum. The real durability often comes by the method of manufacture. Cast items and generally not as durable as die struck or handmade pieces. This has to do with the density of the metal after the work to shape it. Casting leave the metal less dense and more prone to more rapid wear. When metal is hammered or pressed into shape, it compacts and hardens more than the casting process.

Of course, there are alloys that may make on metal harder then another, too. There is 18kt white gold which is extremely durable, just as there is very hard and durable platinum. Both happen when the right alloy mix is used. There are many nuanced tricks and no simple answers. Making a diamond or gem set item from hard, extra durable metal can make setting the gemstones nearly impossible. If the stones are fragile, such as an emerald or a diamond with a pointed ends, the jewelry might need to use a softer blend. The prettiest setting work is often done on softer version metals where it is easier to move and shape the metalwork to the stones.

Going to one extreme or the other is not always a good choice. An eternity band with prongs certainly can be a rather hard alloy, or a handmade or die struck item. Any of these will result in durability more than a soft alloy choice or a cast item.
 

384123

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
16
The durability is not so much better in white gold or platinum. The real durability often comes by the method of manufacture. Cast items and generally not as durable as die struck or handmade pieces. This has to do with the density of the metal after the work to shape it. Casting leave the metal less dense and more prone to more rapid wear. When metal is hammered or pressed into shape, it compacts and hardens more than the casting process.

Of course, there are alloys that may make on metal harder then another, too. There is 18kt white gold which is extremely durable, just as there is very hard and durable platinum. Both happen when the right alloy mix is used. There are many nuanced tricks and no simple answers. Making a diamond or gem set item from hard, extra durable metal can make setting the gemstones nearly impossible. If the stones are fragile, such as an emerald or a diamond with a pointed ends, the jewelry might need to use a softer blend. The prettiest setting work is often done on softer version metals where it is easier to move and shape the metalwork to the stones.

Going to one extreme or the other is not always a good choice. An eternity band with prongs certainly can be a rather hard alloy, or a handmade or die struck item. Any of these will result in durability more than a soft alloy choice or a cast item.


This is the ring^^ It's likely a cast item. I don't have the option of getting a different ring, this is the one. In this case would you choose white gold or platinum?
 

oldminer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Sep 3, 2000
Messages
6,551
I would not prefer to purchase a diamond ring for daily use with closed back settings. It will get dirty inside the cup under the diamond and may become difficult to get it clean. Dirt adhered to the back side of a diamond will make the diamond far less sparkly and attractive.
I have no idea if this is a cast or die struck item, and I also don't know if it alloyed to be stiff and hard or somewhat softer. It is just speculation. Asking the vendor would always be the thing to do, but the closed back, for me, is a stopping point. Sorry.
 
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