Urgent Help with Asscher Cut

mrneko · Apr 11, 2019

Hi everyone,

I posted here a few weeks ago regarding princess cut. @flyingpig helped me a lot in selecting an awesome diamond. So the ring came and the diamond was indeed mesmerizing. However, last week my gf and I went to a local jewelry shop. I wanted to find out what she really likes before the proposal (I had no idea before). Ended up she prefers asscher cut over princess cut. Was bad planning from me as I should have figured out before I placed the order. So I sent the ring back to JA for an exchange and was given 2 - 3 days to decide which diamond to change for.

I have completely no idea what makes a good asscher cut so I will need some help again! I just went to JA and chose a few that are visually appealing to me.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.73-carat-e-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4920952
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.79-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5324539
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.88-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3359715
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.91-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4895130

I decide to up my budget to around $3k as good asscher cut seems harder to come by. Not that I know a lot about them to begin with so any good recommendation apart from the 4 I listed will be very much appreciated!

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

I haven’t had a chance to look at your options, yet, but here is some reading material to help you understand step cuts a little better.
This article brought to you by PS’s own @Karl_K:
https://www.pricescope.com/articles/performance-and-p3-facets-discussion-about-step-cut-diamonds

Step cuts (Asschers) are very different from brilliant cuts (Princess Cuts), so it’s important to have a clear understanding of what you should be looking for in a great performer.
The steps should light up the center from the crown to the center, and back up, when the diamond is tilted, and in motion. True Asschers have windmills that meet in the center. Otherwise, you likely have a square emerald cut. Both are beautiful, but it depends on your preference. The same applies to the length to width ratio. If you want a true square shape, you will want to keep as close to 1.00:1 l x w ratio.
Step cuts show more body color than brilliants because they are cut with broad facets. They sparkle, but they have beautiful flashes of fire created by those broad flashes. You will see a bit of white scintillation, with a lot of large, rainbow flashes.
You will want to avoid the dreaded “dead center”, or “black box” in the center of an Asscher.
Any Asscher that you find pleasing should be placed on hold, and you should request ASET images to better evaluate the performance of the stone; video is only one good way to evaluate step cuts. ASET, and naked eye examination (if you are able) are extremely helpful in narrowing down your search.
That said, let me look at what you have selected, and I’ll give you my opinion on each.

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

#1:
A lot of contrast & movement. Tiny bit of darkness at the center, but ASET will help to determine if that causes impact on performance. Difficult to tell if it’s truly a “blank”, as it seems to light up, while moving.
I love the small table, and the facet pattern.
This should be placed on hold & ASET requested, ASAP.
L x w ratio: 1.00:1.

#2:

The center seems stagnant, and not lively. All of the steps are on at the same time, and it seems very inactive.
The table is tiny, but without the contrast & movement of the steps in the center, it seems unbalanced.

OoohShiny · Apr 11, 2019

mrneko said:
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.73-carat-e-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4920952
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.79-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5324539
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.88-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3359715
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.91-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4895130

Ok, IMHO and bearing in mind I'm no expert

...

1 - It looks nice to my eyes - high crown!, great colour/clarity, doesn't seem to really 'window' (go see through) at any angle... it may be a little lacking in brightness and dark contrast under the table when directly head-on, but it could be the lighting setup - you'll need an ASETscope image to understand how the facets are working.

2 - similar to no.1 under the table so same comments apply, but it looks like it might have the 'hall of mirrors' / 'bottomless' effect, which is hard to come by

Does seem to window a bit at some extreme angles, but nothing major, and the light return dances round the facets, which is good.

3 - there is a dark box round the outside of the area under the table, but it may well just be contrast / obstruction from the camera, therefore not visible in day-to-day wearing. An ASETscope image would help understand how the facets are working. Personally speaking, I quite like the bold contrast pattern! Quite chunky faceting and the light return dances round the stone. Windows only really a little bit. Lower crown and larger table may mean less coloured fire and more white light return.

4 - interesting brightness/contrast patterning head-on. Crown facets seem to be working well and creating some '3D' effect (I think?). Same comments re: under the table brightness / hall of mirrors as no.3 apply. I also quite like the strong contrast patterns in this one, but there is more contrast so ASETscope image would help confirm whether the facets between the obstructed areas will work well and be bright on the finger. Perhaps less bright than some of the other options generally, but still a nice looking stone to my eyes.

Overall a nice selection IMO - well picked!

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

#3:
I wish I could say I like this, but I don’t.
Way too many dark steps at the same time, across the stone. Not to mention, the flat top!!
Not at all pleasing to the eye....

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

#4:

Better than #3, but ASET imaging will be necessary to determine how the stone performs.
It shows a bit of body color compared to #1, as expected; it’s an H.
Place on hold & request ASET, ASAP.

Right now, #1 is my first choice, until proven, otherwise.

OoohShiny · Apr 11, 2019

To throw a few more options in the ring, do any of these appeal?

To my eyes, none are amaaaaazing, but see what you think

)

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.70-carat-f-color-vs1-clarity-sku-6441363

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.70-carat-d-color-vs1-clarity-sku-6310265

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

JA0.70DVS1 is very nice, @OoohShiny!!

OoohShiny · Apr 11, 2019

Ooh, I forgot to say - it could be worth asking Yoram at Gemconcepts if he has anything / could cut something that suits!

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

@OoohShiny ‘s Picks:

#1:
Very nice!!
Place on hold & request ASET!

Matthews1127 · Apr 11, 2019

#2 is nice, but I like the others, better....same with #3....#4 & #5.
I believe #6 is a good candidate, as well.
Place on hold & request ASET, ASAP.
JA provides up to three reports per email address.
Please get as much information on each of these as you can, and return with the information so that we can help you narrow down your choice.
This is really exciting and I look forward to seeing what you choose!!

mrneko · Apr 11, 2019

@Matthews1127 @OoohShiny

Wow thanks for the valuable advice and opinions! I will request ASET for all the recommended stones and post back asap!

OoohShiny · Apr 11, 2019

mrneko said:
@Matthews1127 @OoohShiny

Wow thanks for the valuable advice and opinions! I will request ASET for all the recommended stones and post back asap!

They only give you three ASETs (per email address, if you're feeling cheeky and want to use more than one... lol) so you will have to pick your three favourites!

mrneko · Apr 17, 2019

@Matthews1127 @OoohShiny

I've finally gotten the ASET! Asked my friends for help as well so I managed to get 10 of them. They couldn't provide ASET for all the recommended ones so I had to choose others that are available.

Matthews1127 · Apr 17, 2019

I’m Team 4920052 0.73EVVS2.
I love the cut, the video & ASET.
My second choice, is 6166383 0.81DVS1.
My third is 4895130 0.91HVVS2.

molecule · Apr 17, 2019

Put 3 of these on hold ASAP!!

the_mother_thing · Apr 17, 2019

I’ve had my eye on this one and seriously thought about picking it up for a project down the road but I have too many projects in my pipeline to pull the trigger on it. https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut-loose-diamond-20347.htm

It’s a good bit le$$ than the 4920952 from JA (though an H vs E), has a better ratio (IMO), and given it’s premium select from WF, I believe it would qualify for their upgrade program, which is far better than JA, should you/your intended ever want to upgrade the diamond down the road.

Matthews1127 · Apr 17, 2019

Matthews1127 said:
I’m Team 4920052 0.73EVVS2.
I love the cut, the video & ASET.
My second choice, is 6166383 0.81DVS1.
My third is 4895130 0.91HVVS2.

Correction (typo): 4920952
Apologies!
Thank you, @the_mother_thing!! Your post helped me find my mistake!!

Karl_K · Apr 17, 2019

the_mother_thing said:
I’ve had my eye on this one and seriously thought about picking it up for a project down the road but I have too many projects in my pipeline to pull the trigger on it. https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut-loose-diamond-20347.htm

It’s a good bit le$$ than the 4920952 from JA (though an H vs E), has a better ratio (IMO), and given it’s premium select from WF, I believe it would qualify for their upgrade program, which is far better than JA, should you/your intended ever want to upgrade the diamond down the road.

Way to dark under the table.

Karl_K · Apr 17, 2019

Matthews1127 said:
I’m Team 4920052 0.73EVVS2.
I love the cut, the video & ASET.
My second choice, is 6166383 0.81DVS1.
My third is 4895130 0.91HVVS2.

Table size and depth on these?

Matthews1127 · Apr 17, 2019

Karl_K said:
Table size and depth on these?

JA has left a lot of that info off of the carts they post.
OP: do you have this info you can share?

Karl_K · Apr 17, 2019

Matthews1127 said:
JA has left a lot of that info off of the carts they post.
OP: do you have this info you can share?

critical info.

whitewave · Apr 17, 2019

Here is the problem... asschers face up so small, I was actually disappointed when I received my 1.52 ctw. After 4 years of it bothering me, I reset it into a better setting and now the entire thing is sparkly so I don’t want to get a larger one.

You see, they are deep, so I made a setting to show off the depth.

And then tried all my bands on lol as a stack to see.

Has she seen a .80 to .90 asscher?

The first asscher I saw was this one because no jewelry store around me carried them.

It’s a 1.52 G Vs1. If I had to do it all over again, I would have dropped to a vs2 and probably H color to maximize size. I had been deciding between this one and a slightly larger like a 1.65 H. And I went with Blue Nile, which like James Allen has a spend double upgrade policy, so no upgrade for me because I don’t want to spent another 11k upgrading this stone.

So now, I plan to get another ER in a Round brilliant that I will be able to upgrade to around 1.5 to 2 carats.

Does it have to be James Allen? B2C has a different upgrade policy where IIRC you give up 20% but then you can do what you want with an upgrade. It’s worth thinking about these things.

Look up diamond database and compare that size asscher to that size round.

It’s something she really needs to think about.

This is my experience, so take it for what it’s worth, which is nothing lol.

And FWIW, I’m an asscher lady through and through. They are gorgeous.

Under a carat, especially around a 73 pointer... I’m not sure it would be worth it.

whitewave · Apr 17, 2019

mrneko said:
@Matthews1127 @OoohShiny

I've finally gotten the ASET! Asked my friends for help as well so I managed to get 10 of them. They couldn't provide ASET for all the recommended ones so I had to choose others that are available.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.91-carat-g-color-vs2-clarity-sku-5290709
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.92-carat-g-color-vs1-clarity-sku-5587272
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.83-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-6534324
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.79-carat-g-color-vvs1-clarity-sku-5324539
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.92-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-5291680
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.73-carat-e-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4920952
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.91-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4895130
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.88-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3359715
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.81-carat-d-color-vs1-clarity-sku-6166383
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/asscher-cut/0.81-carat-e-color-vs1-clarity-sku-6556226

I really hate James Allen now. They don’t even list the measurements so I can do a visual. BOO JAMES ALLEN. @jamesallenrings you all really suck now, excuse my language. I’m trying to help this guy and you all are making it IMPOSSIBLE. @YoungPapa

whitewave · Apr 17, 2019

Here is an imaginary well cut, good dimension .73 asscher compared to an imaginary well cut .73 round.

Urgent Help with Asscher Cut

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