Find your diamond
Find your jewelry
shape
carat
color
clarity

Unheated Burma Ruby RHR by Maytal; pls help me choose side stones from photos

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
Hi everyone, I have definitely had an unusual flurry of jewelry projects this year, which have been driven by my upcoming nuptials. I have another jewelry piece to share; this time I'm working with the highly recommended Maytal Hannah on a three-stone ring for my right hand and could really use Pricescoper feedback on the side stones.

I decided to set my 1.41 ct cushion cut, certified unheated Mogok Burma ruby that I was lucky to acquire in 2007 through Robert Genis of National Gemstone. It is an ideal 70% red, 75 tone, has high brilliance, and does not black out in any lighting conditions. It is a wonderful, saturated stoplight red.

Here are the ruby's stats:

Size: 1.412
Cert: AGL - June 09, 2006
Type: "Classic" Burma
Shape: Cushion
MM: 6.35 x 5.59 x 4.56
Color/Tone: 2.5/75
Color Rating/Tone: 2-3/75-80
Color Scan: Red 70, Pink/Purple 15, Orange 15
Clarity: MI1-MI2
Proportions: Very Good-Good (3-4)
Depth: 81.6%
Average Brilliancy: 70-80%
Finish: Very Good-Good (3-4)
TQIR: Excellent to Very Good (2.5)
Heat Enhancement: None

Unfortunately, the ruby is cut quite deep which is typical for Mogok/"Classic" rubies, so face-up it appears like a 1.2 ct size at best. Because the ruby does not appear that big, I felt it would be too dainty to wear as a solitaire. During my initial conversations with Maytal, we agreed a three-stone ring with two diamond side stones would provide good finger coverage. Originally I was leaning towards a classic three stone platinum ring with the ruby having 18kt yellow gold prongs and flanked by two pear shaped diamonds. After Maytal received my ruby, she said she felt like a delicate diamond halo around the ruby would really highlight the ruby nicely. My two major requirements for this project is that I want the ruby to be the clear center of attention and that I want the ring to be timeless and classic (and not too vintage). This is an heirloom piece I will pass down to the next generation. Maytal then provided me two quick sketches (first pic below) showing one version with pear side stones (halo also around each of the pears) and another version with half moon diamond side stones (with no halo around the half moons). I decided I prefer the second version with the non-halo half moon side stones. It felt cleaner and less "vintage' to me.

I just got photos back from Maytal showing three sets of half moons diamonds. The photos show my actual ruby with a paper cut out framing it and acting as the diamond halo and the actual side stones I'll be choosing from. Though the three sets are all half moons, they have a different look. I think I am leaning towards Pair #1, which features the most compact pair of half moons; I feel this half moon shape echoes the shape of my cushion ruby. The half moons look like ovals that are sitting up in a N-S orientation, similar to the ruby. But is this pair fine in size? I also like Pair #2 which has elongated, tapered ends which has a nice, graceful feel too, but is this pair too big? Pair #3 is probably my least favorite because I'm thinking the half moons feel like ovals that fell over on their sides if that makes sense.

So my questions are:

1) Which set of half moons do you like best and why?
2) Should I still have the claw prongs holding the ruby done in 18kt yellow gold while the rest of the ring is platinum? Or go platinum for the whole ring, which is Maytal's recommendation?
3) Any recommendations for the side view of this ring? Since it's completely custom I could do anything. Hidden diamond halo on the sides of the ruby basket? Or is this unnecessary and fussy?

Thanks so much for your feedback in advance
unnamed-3.jpg



unnamed-2.jpg

unnamed.jpg
unnamed-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
373
In complete contrast to your opinion I like pair #1 the least! Just seems to look too squat for the centre with the halo. I think I prefer pair #2 the most, followed by #3 and then #1. I do like the gentle taper quite a bit.

I would go platinum for the whole ring, it already has quite a few elements and I feel like the YG prongs might be distracting and make it less cohesive. And I wouldn’t do a hidden diamond halo - I think it would be fussy in this ring and besides, hidden diamond halos can make stacking (if you plan to wear a band with this) a bit of a pain.

I like those delicate swoopy three stone settings, not super decorative on the basket but just fluid lines, if you know what I mean, but I have no idea if it’s possible or would look nice here. Maybe Maytal can provide her suggestions?

Overall: gorgeous ruby and congratulations on your upcoming wedding!
 

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
In complete contrast to your opinion I like pair #1 the least! Just seems to look too squat for the centre with the halo. I think I prefer pair #2 the most, followed by #3 and then #1. I do like the gentle taper quite a bit.

I would go platinum for the whole ring, it already has quite a few elements and I feel like the YG prongs might be distracting and make it less cohesive. And I wouldn’t do a hidden diamond halo - I think it would be fussy in this ring and besides, hidden diamond halos can make stacking (if you plan to wear a band with this) a bit of a pain.

I like those delicate swoopy three stone settings, not super decorative on the basket but just fluid lines, if you know what I mean, but I have no idea if it’s possible or would look nice here. Maybe Maytal can provide her suggestions?

Overall: gorgeous ruby and congratulations on your upcoming wedding!
Thanks for your detailed feedback! I have been wondering if Pair #1 isn't substantial enough. That pair is a bit squat. And I think you're right about ditching the yellow gold for the prongs now that the ruby is going to have a halo!
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
4,336
Beautiful. The ring will be absolutely fabulous. FC8C7CD7-6F66-4D37-B6FE-A16193F586D2.jpeg
I wouldn’t “be shy” with the diamond halo. A Burmese ruby can hold its own!
Agree stick with all platinum and the shape of No 2 diamonds is much better balance.
Here is my wee ruby literally swimming in an oversized setting yet it still overpowers the diamonds.
 

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
Ok I've officially ruled out Pair #3 and it looks like Pair #2 is the front runner. Maytal has a couple more pairs to look at tomorrow but Pair #2 is her clear recommendation. Here are new pics she sent with Pair #1 and Pair #2 and a hand drawn halo. Ruby and diamonds are all face down, so they don't look their brightest. But things are starting to look like a real ring!

*Maytal pair 3 squat.jpg
*Maytal Pair 1.jpg
 

ac117

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 28, 2014
Messages
3,770
Ahhh what a gorgeous stone!!! And such an exciting project! I very much prefer pair #2 for the sides - they should be tilted downward to curve with your finger so you would barely see pair #1 from the top down view since they are so squat.

As for the prongs, I personally love yg on rubies but since there aren’t any other yg elements, I think they might look strange on such a modern looking ring so I would go with platinum.
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,478
This is going to be so pretty!

I agree with the others that yg prongs would be too much going on, I'd stick with platinum. And I think pear #1 will be much more elegant.

Coincidentally I'm also working with Maytal on a colored stone center 3 stone ring. I'm getting ready to send her my stones in a couple days.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 13, 2018
Messages
3,737
Congratulations! I'm happy we get to see you set this ruby.

Another vote for pair #2 with all platinum. It would look more classic and less fussy without having just the prongs yellow gold.
 

kipari

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
2,182
Another vote for pair 2... All platinum and as many diamonds as you'd like... That show stopper of a ruby can handle a lot of diamonds or shine in it's own. It's perfect either way!
 

Arcadian

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
7,278
IMO go with yellow gold ONLY if you have some other YG echoed elsewhere. otherwise go platinum. the YG will have very little impact otherwise.
 

dk168

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
6,215
I am late to the party, and I like the original #2 of the three in the first post, and #2 of the two you narrowed down.

Personally, I would go for all white metal.

However, I also like the idea of yellow gold for the prongs for the Ruby centre stone.

Whatever you decide, it will be a gorgeous ring, thanks for sharing, and I look forward to seeing the finished ring!

DK :kiss2:
 

Demon

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
1,058
I would go with number 2. But I also have to say, I saw a ring with the ruby set in 18K yellow and the halo in 18K white, and it was gorgeous.
 

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
This is going to be so pretty!

I agree with the others that yg prongs would be too much going on, I'd stick with platinum. And I think pear #1 will be much more elegant.

Coincidentally I'm also working with Maytal on a colored stone center 3 stone ring. I'm getting ready to send her my stones in a couple days.
Congrats! Do you know what you're using for the center or will you have Maytal source it?
 
Last edited:

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
I would go with number 2. But I also have to say, I saw a ring with the ruby set in 18K yellow and the halo in 18K white, and it was gorgeous.
OH! You don't happen to have a link to a pic of that ring do you??
 

Demon

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 16, 2009
Messages
1,058
OH! You don't happen to have a link to a pic of that ring do you??
Oh, I wish I did! I had thought it would look odd, as it wasn't yellow prongs on a yellow diamond or yellow sapphire. But the prongs really stood out - in a good way! If was possibly an Effy ring (I know, I know) and it was a big really beautiful ruby. There were 4 double prongs. Have you looked for images on pinterest or anything?
 

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
One last decision! I had settled on Pair #2 but then Maytal went through one more batch of half moon side stones and found a new pair that she likes more. Her comments:

“The main difference between the stones is the cut. They are almost the same shape and mm size face up, but the original pair weighs .41 and the new one weighs .60. The weight is mostly in the pavilion, but it gives it an overall better reflection. When you see both you can tell which one is brighter, but still both are beautiful.”

Indeed I can see that the light performance is better with the new .60 ct pair BUT the price difference is considerably higher ($500 more than the original .41 ct pair). And face up the new pair doesn’t look look larger than the .41 ct pair. Do you think this new Pair #1 is worth it? Attaching pics. Pair #1 is new pair, second is Pair #2 (same Pair #2 from my earlier posts.) Both pairs are E/F and eye clean clarity.

33CAF195-8E06-423B-BC24-5A287F6E03A8.png
735B9E84-23DC-45FE-AD62-8D404F63437D.png
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Dec 17, 2008
Messages
22,044
Can she show you a video so that you can see the light difference/cut for yourself to see if its worth paying the extra? I do trust her opinion.
 

elrohwen

Ideal_Rock
Joined
May 20, 2008
Messages
5,478
Agreed on asking for a video. It's so hard to tell from those pictures.
 

Gemly

Shiny_Rock
Joined
May 29, 2020
Messages
137
Hi everyone, I have definitely had an unusual flurry of jewelry projects this year, which have been driven by my upcoming nuptials. I have another jewelry piece to share; this time I'm working with the highly recommended Maytal Hannah on a three-stone ring for my right hand and could really use Pricescoper feedback on the side stones.

I decided to set my 1.41 ct cushion cut, certified unheated Mogok Burma ruby that I was lucky to acquire in 2007 through Robert Genis of National Gemstone. It is an ideal 70% red, 75 tone, has high brilliance, and does not black out in any lighting conditions. It is a wonderful, saturated stoplight red.

Here are the ruby's stats:

Size: 1.412
Cert: AGL - June 09, 2006
Type: "Classic" Burma
Shape: Cushion
MM: 6.35 x 5.59 x 4.56
Color/Tone: 2.5/75
Color Rating/Tone: 2-3/75-80
Color Scan: Red 70, Pink/Purple 15, Orange 15
Clarity: MI1-MI2
Proportions: Very Good-Good (3-4)
Depth: 81.6%
Average Brilliancy: 70-80%
Finish: Very Good-Good (3-4)
TQIR: Excellent to Very Good (2.5)
Heat Enhancement: None

Unfortunately, the ruby is cut quite deep which is typical for Mogok/"Classic" rubies, so face-up it appears like a 1.2 ct size at best. Because the ruby does not appear that big, I felt it would be too dainty to wear as a solitaire. During my initial conversations with Maytal, we agreed a three-stone ring with two diamond side stones would provide good finger coverage. Originally I was leaning towards a classic three stone platinum ring with the ruby having 18kt yellow gold prongs and flanked by two pear shaped diamonds. After Maytal received my ruby, she said she felt like a delicate diamond halo around the ruby would really highlight the ruby nicely. My two major requirements for this project is that I want the ruby to be the clear center of attention and that I want the ring to be timeless and classic (and not too vintage). This is an heirloom piece I will pass down to the next generation. Maytal then provided me two quick sketches (first pic below) showing one version with pear side stones (halo also around each of the pears) and another version with half moon diamond side stones (with no halo around the half moons). I decided I prefer the second version with the non-halo half moon side stones. It felt cleaner and less "vintage' to me.

I just got photos back from Maytal showing three sets of half moons diamonds. The photos show my actual ruby with a paper cut out framing it and acting as the diamond halo and the actual side stones I'll be choosing from. Though the three sets are all half moons, they have a different look. I think I am leaning towards Pair #1, which features the most compact pair of half moons; I feel this half moon shape echoes the shape of my cushion ruby. The half moons look like ovals that are sitting up in a N-S orientation, similar to the ruby. But is this pair fine in size? I also like Pair #2 which has elongated, tapered ends which has a nice, graceful feel too, but is this pair too big? Pair #3 is probably my least favorite because I'm thinking the half moons feel like ovals that fell over on their sides if that makes sense.

So my questions are:

1) Which set of half moons do you like best and why?
2) Should I still have the claw prongs holding the ruby done in 18kt yellow gold while the rest of the ring is platinum? Or go platinum for the whole ring, which is Maytal's recommendation?
3) Any recommendations for the side view of this ring? Since it's completely custom I could do anything. Hidden diamond halo on the sides of the ruby basket? Or is this unnecessary and fussy?

Thanks so much for your feedback in advance
unnamed-3.jpg



unnamed-2.jpg

unnamed.jpg
unnamed-1.jpg

I like pair #2 with all platinum. Looks like a really complimentary size and shape. That ruby is GORGEOUS!!!!!
 

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
I did get videos of the half moon pears but having huge trouble posting! Do they have to be a certain format? Pic #1 is an image of Video #1 showing the new more expensive pair. Pic #2 is an image of Video #2 for Pair #2 (which everyone in this thread voted for in the first round of side stones.) 52059D3C-53C5-41D7-9F27-C7F5BBE2B143.png 92A053D3-6068-40BA-B891-45BCAFFA7CAA.jpeg
 

Gemstonesrock

Rough_Rock
Joined
Sep 16, 2019
Messages
54
Ok I have video- it took me a bit to figure out the best way to post video on PS!

Video #1 showing the new more expensive pair.


Video #2 is for Pair #2 (which everyone in this thread voted for in the first round.)

So, is it worth $500 more for .61 ct vs .40 ct sidestones that appear the same size face up, are same color and clarity, but return light better?
 
Be a part of the community It's free, join today!
    Celebratory Engagement Ring Upgrade And Bracelet
    Celebratory Engagement Ring Upgrade And Bracelet
    Chiguys's Cushion Cut Engagement Ring
    Chiguys's Cushion Cut Engagement Ring
    Archduchess Eleonore von Habsburg and Jérôme d’Ambrosio Royal Wedding
    Archduchess Eleonore von Habsburg and Jérôme d’Ambrosio Royal Wedding

Need Something Special?

Get a quote from multiple trusted and vetted jewelers.

Holloway Cut Advisor



Diamond Eye Candy

Click to view full-size image.

New posts

Top