Tokyo jewellery exhibitions - Bvlgari Kaleidos and VCA Art Deco

[Pomelo]

Tokyo has two wonderful jewellery exhibitions at the moment - they're not widely publicised so if you're in Japan over the next 2-3 months please do take a look!

Bvlgari Kaleidos - ends 15 Dec 2025
Van Cleef & Arples Art Deco - ends 19 Jan 2026 (the title is "Timeless Art Deco with Van Cleef & Arpels High Jewelry"), no photography allowed

I managed to see both (including a 20 min taxi between the two venues) within 4 hours. It was rushed, but sadly I couldn't dedicate more time to these two exhibitions.

The contrast between the two was quite interesting: Bvlgari with its focus on colour and bold settings, VCA with more intricate designs (the Art Deco pieces in platinum were so light and beautiful) across various styles.

If you have to pick one, I would choose the Bvlgari exhibition: firstly, because it allowed photos - I can't fathom why VCA is so stingy and wouldn't allow any photography! Secondly, Bvlgari brought a lot more high jewellery and knock-out pieces. Don't get me wrong, VCA had some incredible pieces, but the overall the "standard" was lower. Thirdly, the curation felt more well-thought through at Bvlgari by grouping pieces by colour, whereas the VCA narrative didn't flow very well.
Saying that, if I were to remember one piece from these exhibitions it would be the 1937 mystery-set chrysanthemum clip by VCA. I'd only admired it in books before and the real deal was sublime (https://the-collection.vancleefarpels.com/en/creation/mystery-set-chrysanthemum-clip/)

Onto the photos of Bvlgari Kaleidos (as VCA didn't allow photography).



Sapphire set below used to be owned by Elizabeth Taylor


I’m always surprised by how much I like amethyst!

 

[Pomelo]

More eye candy



This is a BANGLE! Not a ring. The size of that centre sapphire is unbelievable. Annoyingly the descriptions were lacking in detail, only listing the materials/stones and no carat weights…

 

[Pomelo]

And the last batch



Sadly my phone couldn’t capture the green diamonds in this brooch, they weren’t particularly saturated but still noticeably green


And the one photo of the VCA exhibition you’re allowed…

 

[Catmom]

Wow, thanks for sharing these amazing pieces!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Wow! So many cabochons… did you feel vindicated in your own love of such gems lol

 

[MissGotRocks]

Thanks so much for sharing! Amazing show!

 

[newtojewels]

Absolutely amazing, thank you so much for sharing! I can't believe that bangle is a bangle

 

[Starstruck8]

Wow! The splendor! The design! The detail! The size! And the matching - it's not always perfect, but it's almost unbelievably good. How could they bring together so many matching sets of stones?

To ride my hobbyhorse: I'm delighted to see all those cabs. They illustrate my pet theory that the best cabs are not usually the glassy clean ones, but those with a good spread of inclusions. I love the fascinating mysterious glow of this one:

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

Wow. I’m salivating from all of the yummy looking cabs. Thanks for sharing, she says, as she stumbles off to look for ice cream…

 

[Pomelo]

Wow, thanks for sharing these amazing pieces!

Pleasure is all mine!

Wow! So many cabochons… did you feel vindicated in your own love of such gems lol

Hahaha tbh I didn’t actually notice that Bvlgari “overindexes” on cabochons until they had a short text explaining how the house was innovative in its use of cabs!
But yes, I approve

Thanks so much for sharing! Amazing show!

Pleasure!

Absolutely amazing, thank you so much for sharing! I can't believe that bangle is a bangle

Haha I genuinely did a double-take when I got closer. I’d love to know the size of that sapphire!

Wow! The splendor! The design! The detail! The size! And the matching - it's not always perfect, but it's almost unbelievably good. How could they bring together so many matching sets of stones?

To ride my hobbyhorse: I'm delighted to see all those cabs. They illustrate my pet theory that the best cabs are not usually the glassy clean ones, but those with a good spread of inclusions. I love the fascinating mysterious glow of this one:

Sounds like this is a great excuse for you to take a trip to Tokyo @Starstruck8

What I found interesting is that the gems often aren’t “trade ideal” colours or clarity but the main thing is that the colours of the piece works as a whole.

Yes that ruby was incredible, especially considering the size. However, I wish they had given it a more neutral background so that the red of the ruby is not confused/diluted by the very red background. My eyes (and probably my phone) found it difficult to gauge the true colour of the rubies.

Here are more photos of the ruby cab and a faceted ring that I didn’t include in the original write-up.

And I see what you mean about needing some level of inclusions. Without the inclusions to scatter and reflect back some light, the centre of the ruby would look a little dark.

Wow. I’m salivating from all of the yummy looking cabs. Thanks for sharing, she says, as she stumbles off to look for ice cream…

Hehehe I could just pop one in my mouth!

 

[Crimson]

I’m with @Starstruck8 . I like the cabs most! Thanks for sharing, @Pomelo.

 

[tyty333]

Amazing jewels! The color combinations are so lively!

Thanks for sharing, @Pomelo !

 

[Pomelo]

I’m with @Starstruck8 . I like the cabs most! Thanks for sharing, @Pomelo.

Hehehe we have our own little cabochon fan club

Amazing jewels! The color combinations are so lively!

Thanks for sharing, @Pomelo !

Thanks! Indeed the colour combos are really interesting, and it reminds me that I need to add a book or course about colour theory to my list of to dos!

When I look back at the photos, I’m also struck by the combination of transparent and opaque gems (eg amethyst and turquoise). In addition to colour, various levels of transparency are layered to create visual interest.

This makes me think about an open-cuff / moi et toi ring that I need to set! A large 17+mm pink freshwater pearl and a lab light pink sapphire from @Dr_Diesel

 

[tyty333]

Glad you pointed that out @Pomelo ...I had not noticed the transparent and opaque stone combination. Just one more unique thing
that adds interest!

 

[Star gazer]

Hehehe we have our own little cabochon fan club


Thanks! Indeed the colour combos are really interesting, and it reminds me that I need to add a book or course about colour theory to my list of to dos!

When I look back at the photos, I’m also struck by the combination of transparent and opaque gems (eg amethyst and turquoise). In addition to colour, various levels of transparency are layered to create visual interest.

This makes me think about an open-cuff / moi et toi ring that I need to set! A large 17+mm pink freshwater pearl and a lab light pink sapphire from @Dr_Diesel

I see gorgeous and luscious cotton candy.. So dreamy

 

[oncrutchesrightnow]

Wow! They’re all so pretty.

Pleasure is all mine!

What I found interesting is that the gems often aren’t “trade ideal” colours or clarity but the main thing is that the colours of the piece works as a whole.

These pieces are impressive because they are beautiful, as opposed to some high jewelry that is basically “look at all these flawless unheated untreated giant rocks.”

 

[Pomelo]

Wow! They’re all so pretty.



These pieces are impressive because they are beautiful, as opposed to some high jewelry that is basically “look at all these flawless unheated untreated giant rocks.”

Very true! Although I think for the big jewellery houses, high jewellery has become more and more about design (Tiffany Blue Book, Boucheron Carte Blanche). I’d love to see Boucheron’s High Jewellery in the flesh one day.


@Star gazer @Crimson just wondering if you think these are foil backed? I’d like to get a glowy amethyst cab but am wondering about the setting
In 1) I reckon the emeralds are foil backed but I’m not sure about the amethysts
In 2) I don’t think the amethysts are foil backed?
In 3) don’t look foil backed?
In 4) none of the tourmalines / citrines look foil backed but I’m liking the colour saturation of the triangular pink tourmaline!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I loved that combo of turquoise, paraiba tourmaline, and amethyst. Mixing textures and colors… chefs kiss

 

[Crimson]

@Star gazer @Crimson just wondering if you think these are foil backed? I’d like to get a glowy amethyst cab but am wondering about the setting
In 1) I reckon the emeralds are foil backed but I’m not sure about the amethysts
In 2) I don’t think the amethysts are foil backed?
In 3) don’t look foil backed?
In 4) none of the tourmalines / citrines look foil backed but I’m liking the colour saturation of the triangular pink tourmaline!

I like these geometric designs!
Are you looking at these items online? I’m wondering if you could get the seller to show you a shot of the items from behind?
One of my friends has a big amethyst pendant that is not backed. Here is a photo.

She is also eyeing this pair of earrings which is not foil backed,

I think her photos show that amethysts can perform on their own without much backing.
However, I have a Rwanda amethyst that’s more deeply coloured where these look more medium purple, similar to those in jewellery items #1 and #2.
Another consideration is that amethysts are not very expensive, so jewellers or buyers nowadays might not want to give them a foil back. However, if these are antique pieces, then maybe, because amethyst used to be relatively more costly than other gems and considered an important stone.

 

[Pomelo]

I like these geometric designs!
Are you looking at these items online? I’m wondering if you could get the seller to show you a shot of the items from behind?
One of my friends has a big amethyst pendant that is not backed. Here is a photo.

She is also eyeing this pair of earrings which is not foil backed,

I think her photos show that amethysts can perform on their own without much backing.
However, I have a Rwanda amethyst that’s more deeply coloured where these look more medium purple, similar to those in jewellery items #1 and #2.
Another consideration is that amethysts are not very expensive, so jewellers or buyers nowadays might not want to give them a foil back. However, if these are antique pieces, then maybe, because amethyst used to be relatively more costly than other gems and considered an important stone.

Thanks!

I’m not looking at those designs online, they were part of the Bvlargi exhibition

As a one-trick pony, I’d probably get a freeform amethyst cab haha

 

[Star gazer]

Very true! Although I think for the big jewellery houses, high jewellery has become more and more about design (Tiffany Blue Book, Boucheron Carte Blanche). I’d love to see Boucheron’s High Jewellery in the flesh one day.


@Star gazer @Crimson just wondering if you think these are foil backed? I’d like to get a glowy amethyst cab but am wondering about the setting
In 1) I reckon the emeralds are foil backed but I’m not sure about the amethysts
In 2) I don’t think the amethysts are foil backed?
In 3) don’t look foil backed?
In 4) none of the tourmalines / citrines look foil backed but I’m liking the colour saturation of the triangular pink tourmaline!

Gorgeous!! I see what you mean about 2 and 3 @Pomelo , they don't look foil backed to me. Ooh that is a pretty tourmaline in 4 Reminds me of watermelon jolly rancher candy! Such a pretty mix of colours

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

Hehehe we have our own little cabochon fan club


Thanks! Indeed the colour combos are really interesting, and it reminds me that I need to add a book or course about colour theory to my list of to dos!

When I look back at the photos, I’m also struck by the combination of transparent and opaque gems (eg amethyst and turquoise). In addition to colour, various levels of transparency are layered to create visual interest.

This makes me think about an open-cuff / moi et toi ring that I need to set! A large 17+mm pink freshwater pearl and a lab light pink sapphire from @Dr_Diesel

I saw this and did a mini screech cuz I thought you had found a natural huge baby pink sapphire before reading properly. She’s got perfect colouring!

Thank you for sharing the exhibition pics! They are marvellous!

 

[Pomelo]

I saw this and did a mini screech cuz I thought you had found a natural huge baby pink sapphire before reading properly. She’s got perfect colouring!

Thank you for sharing the exhibition pics! They are marvellous!

Haha! Well, I did try on this natural pink sapphire (Madagascar) at Tiffany’s yday. 5ct so probably too small for you @mellowyellowgirl but the glow was amazing! Beat the blue sapphire hands down.

Now, if only I had $200k spare…

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

Haha! Well, I did try on this natural pink sapphire (Madagascar) at Tiffany’s yday. 5ct so probably too small for you @mellowyellowgirl but the glow was amazing! Beat the blue sapphire hands down.

Now, if only I had $200k spare…

That’s pretty!!! I would never say no to 5ct+ in the right colour! That looks decently big for carat size!

Omg I soooooo want a light pink!!! I contacted my Chansey vendor and told them I’m still in the market for a baby pink. They said to me: Sure, we can always dream.

I’m not sure if it was a language/expression issue or if they’re legit sick of me

 

[Pomelo]

I came back to post about the VCA exhibition as I forgot that I bought six postcards (my favourite six pieces from the choice of 15 postcards they had).

From top row:
1928 platinum and diamonds bracelet
1937 Chrysanthemum clip: platinum, YG, mystery set rubies, diamonds
1929 collaret, platinum, emeralds and diamonds
1924 Entwined Flowers, Red and White Roses bracelet. Platinum, emeralds, rubies, onyx, yellow diamonds, diamonds. A similar bracelet won the Grand Prix at the 1925 Exposition Internationale
1943 Cadenas wristwatch, yellow gold, rubies
1919 Loop brooch, platinum, emeralds, onyx, diamonds

I think about the 1919 Loop brooch quite a lot because the three colours (green, black and white) are really pleasing to my eye.

 

[stracci2000]

@Pomelo Thanks for the virtual tour! I have always been fond of Bvlgari since I was a teenager drooling over their ads in Vogue magazine in the early 1980s.
Yes, their colorful cabs are like candy orbs set into delicious gold!
Beautiful photos. (Running to jewelry box to put on some cabs today....)

 

[Star gazer]

@Pomelo Thanks for the virtual tour! I have always been fond of Bvlgari since I was a teenager drooling over their ads in Vogue magazine in the early 1980s.
Yes, their colorful cabs are like candy orbs set into delicious gold!
Beautiful photos. (Running to jewelry box to put on some cabs today....)

Post pics, when you do!!!

 

[Pomelo]

Post pics, when you do!!!

Hahaha I had the exact same thought! @stracci2000 waitin’ here for your cabs

 

[stracci2000]

@Star gazer @Pomelo
Oh, just because you asked! Now you guys know I don't have anything in your league, but I have a couple things that I made. (The weird linear reflection is from fluorescent lights)

 

[Star gazer]

@Star gazer @Pomelo
Oh, just because you asked! Now you guys know I don't have anything in your league, but I have a couple things that I made. (The weird linear reflection is from fluorescent lights)

LOVE IT @stracci2000