to go custom, or not?

[diasurfer]

I''ve narrowed down my choices for style of e-ring setting and was hoping to get some input from the PS crowd. I tend to be a bit long-winded online but please bear with me if this sort of thing interests you. The stone is going to be round and in the 1-1.25 carat range. I''m considering I in color but may go one grade in either direction. The setting will be platinum.

I was interested in a half bezel setting from the beginning because we''re pretty active. I''ve read some things that say they are safer - others say not really so much and choose by aesthetics alone. The Claude Thibadeau setting (hopefully attachment worked) was the first one I saw that I really liked. I wanted to keep it a secret but thought I better get her opinion. I would like to say it jumped off the screen for her but not so much. Unfortunately, she''s not a big jewelery afficianado and after days of searching she hasn''t really found anything she likes better. In fact, the Claude Thibadeau setting is now one of her favorites. The other is one of the X-prong trellis types from Vatache (Whiteflash has one too). Could the final choices be any different? She wants me to decide!

 

[diasurfer]

Well, I''m still partial to the half bezel myself. I like the way it looks and think it will be more practical. So here''s the issue. Although a vendor quoted me $1390 for this setting, they seem reluctant to sell it without the center stone. Robbins has quoted $1700 for this setting so I would probably go with them. For about the same amount, I can get a custom made version from Whiteflash. I will probably get the stone from them as well but am still considering many options.


[Would love Mark Morrell but he probably wouldn''t fit my timeline. We have a trip to Kauai planned for the end of July when I''d like to propose].

The advantages of going custom are 1. can tweak the design a bit and make it totally unique (bespoke! 2. I can probably get it sooner (2 weeks or so) compared to 4-6 for the Claude Thibadeau. The tweaks I''m considering are sort of a tapering in of the shank as it approaches the stone. This was inspired by looking at the Mark Morrell Sunburst from the top (she really liked that aspect but doesn''t want prongs unless X-trellis). I''d also like to round the half-bezels a bit, kind of like the Christian Bauer design I''ll also try too attach. [This one is very expensive].

The advantages of going with the designer are 1. I''ll know that the end design has already passed a taste test other than my own 2. not having to deal with general uneasiness that I might be unhappy with the final custom product. I know that Whiteflash custom is generally well regarded but I''m still nervous about it. The fact that the Claude Thibadeau is "designer" means next to nothing to either of us.

Thanks for reading this long post and I''d appreciate any guidance you can offer.

 

[diasurfer]

Sorry had trouble posting. Here''s the Claude Thibadeau setting I''m considering.

 

[diasurfer]

And this is the Christian Bauer. I like this one too and would incorporate some aspects of both, along with the taper in toward the stone.

 

[JulieN]

Etienne Perret?

 

[diasurfer]

I looked at some of their designs but none of them seemed quite right. I''ve attached the closest one to what I''m looking for (other than the green stones). But I don''t like how it has a higher profile than the others.

 

[pricescope]

I agree with JulieN, there are all sorts of bezels on his site, for example this one http://www.etienneperret.com/colored-diamond-jewelry/daniellechampagne

 

[pricescope]

Another low half-bezel which should be safest for the active life style

 

[neatfreak]

My favorite of the ones shown is the Christian Bauer. And I would trust WF to remake something to your liking anyway. I personally would go custom with almost any PS vendor any day!!!

 

[JulieA]

If you want another opinion- I checked out the posted options and definitely think the Christian B. looks the very best.

 

[decodelighted]

Everytime I see someone considering a design like this I feel compelled to recommend my fave ... it''s from Sholdt Design and I''m not sure who carries them online but their site has a "retailers" section -- perhaps one in your area?

Honestly, for a setting like this I would NOT go BESPOKE .. especially in your time frame. I think there''s little possible gain and MUCHO possible risk. JMHO.

It''s not "the designer name" you''re paying for or buying into ... it''s the pre-tested design itself and assurence of a certain level of quality they''ve already achieved in this ring over & over & over again. Peace of mind. Expertise. Precision & flow is even more important in this STYLE of ring ... I''ve seen a lot of "bad" versions

.

 

[neatfreak]

Ohh I changed my mind. The one Deco posted is now my new favorite!!!!

 

[surfgirl]

well dia, I cannot bespeak bespoke, but I love the setting deco posted the best of all the ones shown here. But if you want a totally protected setting, why not go full bezel? Just curious? I think you mentioned that she''s quite active and the half bezels still leave the top/bottom of the stone exposed. Just a thought.

A meager surf has bespoken...

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 6/25/2007 11:26:15 AM
Author: decodelighted


Honestly, for a setting like this I would NOT go BESPOKE .. especially in your time frame. I think there''s little possible gain and MUCHO possible risk. JMHO.


It''s not ''the designer name'' you''re paying for or buying into ... it''s the pre-tested design itself and assurence of a certain level of quality they''ve already achieved in this ring over & over & over again. Peace of mind. Expertise. Precision & flow is even more important in this STYLE of ring ... I''ve seen a lot of ''bad'' versions

.

agree 100%...

 

[diasurfer]

Date: 6/25/2007 10:50:36 AM
Author: Pricescope
I agree with JulieN, there are all sorts of bezels on his site, for example this one

Thanks, I''ve seen them all. Although I''m describing a contemporary design, I think the Etienne Pierre are a bit too modern.

 

[diasurfer]

Date: 6/25/2007 11:26:15 AM
Author: decodelighted
Everytime I see someone considering a design like this I feel compelled to recommend my fave ... it''s from Sholdt Design and I''m not sure who carries them online but their site has a ''retailers'' section -- perhaps one in your area?


Honestly, for a setting like this I would NOT go BESPOKE .. especially in your time frame. I think there''s little possible gain and MUCHO possible risk. JMHO.


It''s not ''the designer name'' you''re paying for or buying into ... it''s the pre-tested design itself and assurence of a certain level of quality they''ve already achieved in this ring over & over & over again. Peace of mind. Expertise. Precision & flow is even more important in this STYLE of ring ... I''ve seen a lot of ''bad'' versions

.

We''ve checked these out too. Personally I like them, but she prefers the other two. Specifically, she likes how the shank remains low profile up until the "cradle" for the stone. The shank on the Sholdt designs thickens as it approaches the stone. She prefers a lighter look.

As far as your recommendation about possible risk, that''s what I''m worried about! But timewise, I could actually get a custom one made by WF sooner than I could get a designer one. It wouldn''t be the end of the world if it wasn''t ready by our Kauai trip though. That''s just a weekend island hop (we''re on oahu), not a long-planned vacation.

 

[diasurfer]

Hey "serf" gal

thanks for your input.

The full bezels are too sacrifice of aesthetics for safety. She just doesn''t like the full bezel look. One of her favorite parts of the Claude Thibaudeau is the V in the cradle which allows viewing of the side of the diamond. Another problem is that she hasn''t been able to try any of these on. The jewelers we have visited in Honolulu don''t carry these styles. Even the common styles don''t usually fit her (size 7.5).

I''m wondering if we''re overplaying the whole safety aspect. She''s a marine biologist working with sea turtles. One of them bit her fingernail off one time, so it''s not like she''s going to be wearing it while she works. (Or surfs).

Could I be anymore wishy-washy? I''d like to go back to pondering the various diamond options. Settings are much harder!

Wow, no votes for the Claude Thibaudeau. Well I asked for honest opinions and that''s what I got. Thanks all!

 

[strmrdr]

Date: 6/25/2007 1:41:16 AM
Author: diasurfer

And this is the Christian Bauer. I like this one too and would incorporate some aspects of both, along with the taper in toward the stone.

yummy!
I''m going to have to get a setting like that with a colored stone for a rhr for wifey2b someday.

 

[diasurfer]

Date: 6/25/2007 2:31:20 PM
Author: strmrdr

Date: 6/25/2007 1:41:16 AM

Author: diasurfer


And this is the Christian Bauer. I like this one too and would incorporate some aspects of both, along with the taper in toward the stone.

yummy!

I''m going to have to get a setting like that with a colored stone for a rhr for wifey2b someday.

I like this one too. I could also get it ordered and set by a local jeweler who has an excellent reputation. Unfortunately, this is one is $2300. Seems like it a lot for such a simple setting. Paying for that German engineering I guess.

strmndr, it''s hard to tell from the photo, but do you think this might actually be a tension setting? Meaning that the two ends of the shank meeting below the stone are not actually cast together?

 

[decodelighted]

Yeah, it's frustrating that "custom" versions are sometimes quicker than the original designer ones ... my e-ring took 6-8 weeks I think. But I wanted it done by someone who had DONE IT BEFORE ... it, exactly. Custom is called for in many circumstances -- this just doesn't seem one of them -- mostly because the one thing you're thinking of doing (making it taper so that the shank becomes more narrow toward the stone & then blossom into the semi-bezel) I think there's a reason that's not done. It's a complicated change structurally - I find it hard to believe that it could be well-thought out & executed for THE FIRST TIME in 4 weeks -- with all the changes & modifications that are bound to come up during the "trial runs". Also - I think it would look funny with a wedding band - more gap ... less flow ... awkward.

Of the ones you've posted -- I much prefer the Christian Bauer design -- looks more feminine & tulipish while still being modern & low profile & sleek.

ETA: because I spelled "change" "chance" a few times

 

[decodelighted]

Date: 6/25/2007 2:39:45 PM
Author: decodelighted
the one thing you''re thinking of doing (making it taper so that the shank becomes more narrow toward the stone & then blossom into the semi-bezel) I think there''s a reason that''s not done.

In case you haven''t seen a tapered semi-bezel ... here is a picture ... see what I mean? Or maybe you love it! It''s from Krikawa.com

 

[decodelighted]

This one is kinda cool ... in platinum it''s $3600 though -- I think it includes the half moon sidestones.

 

[pricescope]

I know that if i be taking my ring of all the time of working it would not last long, it''s a bigger risk of loosing it somewhere b/w locker room and last second ''oops i forgot to take it off!" on the shore.
What i mean - if she does not going to wear it doing activities - it shouldn''t nesseseraly be a safest setting ever.

No i don''t think any of the above designs are tension.

 

[decodelighted]

I know you''re not looking for a pave ring but I thought this image might help if you do go the custom route ... it''s also from the Kirkara place -- if you want bigger images.

 

[pricescope]

Date: 6/25/2007 2:23:09 PM
Author: diasurfer

Date: 6/25/2007 11:26:15 AM
Author: decodelighted
Everytime I see someone considering a design like this I feel compelled to recommend my fave ... it''s from Sholdt Design and I''m not sure who carries them online but their site has a ''retailers'' section -- perhaps one in your area?


Honestly, for a setting like this I would NOT go BESPOKE .. especially in your time frame. I think there''s little possible gain and MUCHO possible risk. JMHO.


It''s not ''the designer name'' you''re paying for or buying into ... it''s the pre-tested design itself and assurence of a certain level of quality they''ve already achieved in this ring over & over & over again. Peace of mind. Expertise. Precision & flow is even more important in this STYLE of ring ... I''ve seen a lot of ''bad'' versions

.

We''ve checked these out too. Personally I like them, but she prefers the other two. Specifically, she likes how the shank remains low profile up until the ''cradle'' for the stone. The shank on the Sholdt designs thickens as it approaches the stone. She prefers a lighter look.

As far as your recommendation about possible risk, that''s what I''m worried about! But timewise, I could actually get a custom one made by WF sooner than I could get a designer one. It wouldn''t be the end of the world if it wasn''t ready by our Kauai trip though. That''s just a weekend island hop (we''re on oahu), not a long-planned vacation.

Those 2 rings look different because of the different points the photos were taken from - they are almost identical imo.

 

[rainydaze]

you know, i have always been drawn to the bezel settings. something about them is just so simple and elegant and attention-getting. anyway, i digress. you have some beautiful options and i like the christian bauer. it looks so polished and balanced with feminine curves. that said, i liked the first one for the small design feature you mentioned - the ''v'' below the diamond. i''ve seen that in a half bezel setting before and i couldn''t tell you exactly why, but i love it.

check out cross jewelers (maine) they have some LOVELY bezel settings that are at least worth a look. but i still vote bauer!

http://crossstylebook.com/ctg.htm

 

[Gypsy]

Date: 6/25/2007 1:41:16 AM
Author: diasurfer

And this is the Christian Bauer. I like this one too and would incorporate some aspects of both, along with the taper in toward the stone.

I REALLY love this one the best. You said it was expensive though... have you called around for prices? I''ve noticed that sometimes (not always) the mark ups of BM''s are very different with regard to designer settings than that of online stores. It''s worth a few calls.

Do you mind if I ask the price difference between the others and this one? Cause custom with Mark Morrel is NOT cheap.

 

[diasurfer]

Well y''all have just about talked me out of going the custom route. I''ve hand-built things myself and know that you always end up telling yourself, "well if I were to do it again, I would have done it this way", and don''t really want to go the process of either rejecting rings or accepting something I don''t like. That would kill the time advantage as well.

Deco, thanks for the Krikawa examples. We had seen some of those but not all. She prefers a more rounded look, and doesn''t like the vertical aspect to the bezel. I get your point about narrowing the shank as well.

Pscope, perhaps some of it is the angle of the photo, but I''m attaching another pic of the Sholdt that was the closest match. Compare it to the Bauer, and you can really see the difference in the shank near the stone. And yes, we need to ask ourselves what is the biggest risk - wearing it during activities or taking it off and losing it?

Rainydaze, we''ve seen Cross as well. They have some pretty designs but nothing seemed quite right. We''ve looked at thousands of designs and nothing seems quite right.

This morning, she said just get me a classic tiffany style and let''s be done with it!!! But I am determined that to find something she likes.

Gypsy, we were quoted $1700 for the Claude Thibaudeau from robbins online, and $2855 for the Bauer (number above was wrong). The local jeweler I think quoted around $2600 (surprising, usually Hawaii is more expensive) and said he would match any online price. It''s surprising to me because Robbins online quoted $1320 for the Vatache X-prong. That seems like a more "complicated" setting and yet retails for substantially less.

I would just go for the Christian Bauer but it seems crazy to spend $5-6K on the stone and $2.5-3K (half that much) on the setting.

Mahalo!

 

[pricescope]

Uggh, sorry diasurfer, i though you were not talking about vertical raising of the shank, i see what you like now but do you realise that such raised shank makes that diamond part much less prone to knocking then define profile of the Bauer? Well, it's not as important as what your girl likes.

 

[diasurfer]

Oh yes, I hadn''t thought of the likelihood of the profile withstanding a hard knock. The Sholdt would definitely result in a more glancing sideways blow than the Bauer. For what it''s worth, the local jeweler who sells Bauer (only had it in catolog, not in stock) didn''t think the safety issue was a factor at all. He thought a well-done four prong would be just as safe.