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Thoughts on Leon Mege E-Ring Design?

Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
120
I don't *think* anyone has mentioned this, but if I'm repeating somebody else - my apologies....

I'm not a fan of center stones with angled corners set with stones with square corners. They're two different cuts - and say 'different periods' to me. If it's your thing - great! - have at it! but for me - no.

Yes, your mother's diamond looks whiter, yes, the five stone would be (way) too wide for my aesthetic (and I understand you've already made your own decisions re that - but just staying on topic re the original post), and agree that Leon's side stone contribution isn't cutting the mustard.

I think all the bells and whistles are detracting from your gorgeous diamond - and I'm someone who likes a BIG look. Were it me, I'd rotate the sides so they're horizontal rather than vertical, and go with tapered bullets. I love that look (if this interests you at all, have a look at my thread from last year called Boadicea the Valiant) and think it would look killer with your stone and the proportions you have, which are inflexible (your finger and your main stone).

Good luck!

I really appreciate your candor — that kind of frankness is what keeps me coming back to PS! Totally agree on all points re the five stone design and I’m glad we 86’d it in short order.

I toyed with the idea of setting the baguettes horizontally (hey, if it’s good enough for Grace Kelly and mrs-b...), but my boyfriend vetoed the notion on sight. He likes what he likes and really doesn’t like what he doesn’t — I don’t pretend to understand the whys and wherefores, haha. But I agree it would look lovely!
 

Mreader

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I toyed with the idea of setting the baguettes horizontally (hey, if it’s good enough for Grace Kelly and mrs-b...), but my boyfriend vetoed the notion on sight. He likes what he likes and really doesn’t like what he doesn’t — I don’t pretend to understand the whys and wherefores, haha. But I agree it would look lovely!

I always think it's so weird when the bf has such strong opinions about the ring. I mean the fiancée is the one wearing it!! It doesn't sound like you are inclined toward the baguettes in that direction, but if you were it would be a bummer...
 

Cerulean

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I always think it's so weird when the bf has such strong opinions about the ring. I mean the fiancée is the one wearing it!! It doesn't sound like you are inclined toward the baguettes in that direction, but if you were it would be a bummer...

My now husband is like that too. Not picky per say, and very laid back…but weirdly strong opinions about a lot of looks I love for engagement/wedding rings. He doesn’t care about any of my other jewelry.
 
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
120
I'm sorry this is turning out to be more expensive than you anticipated. I'm sure the baguettes would be cut to match in size. Keep us posted as to what you decide.
The budget is a bummer. Without knowing the stats of the sides, I don’t think it’s an unfair price. However, I have not pursued many custom cut diamond projects. The two times I got a quote for custom cut diamond sides stones, I was quoted $3,600 and $3,800 from two different vendors for antique pear side stones cut from rough in D-F color, ~0.5 total carats (0.25 each). I inquired about lab stones, and it was a negligible difference, the price was mostly for the labor. Cutting from rough is a different ballgame, but I hope that helps paint a picture.
I too love the skinny traps but I know its getting $$$ with recut and all. I wonder what are the longest step-cut traps he can find?

Honestly, the money issue is a bit silly because it would only put us ~$1.5k over our (rather arbitrarily set) budget — a ring budget that was initially much higher before I suggested doing lab for the center. I played myself!

I hope this is ok to post here, but Leon looked for lab alternatives today to help with the cost. He sent me a pic of this pair:

5A2A7B67-C1D5-4B31-9187-6BFD88115FA7.jpeg

Not sure which direction we‘ll go with it. The price on the labs is obviously significantly less, but he doesn’t know how much the recutting will cost.
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
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Sep 13, 2019
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Honestly, the money issue is a bit silly because it would only put us ~$1.5k over our (rather arbitrarily set) budget — a ring budget that was initially much higher before I suggested doing lab for the center. I played myself!

I hope this is ok to post here, but Leon looked for lab alternatives today to help with the cost. He sent me a pic of this pair:

5A2A7B67-C1D5-4B31-9187-6BFD88115FA7.jpeg

Not sure which direction we‘ll go with it. The price on the labs is obviously significantly less, but he doesn’t know how much the recutting will cost.

If the budget is important and you don’t have qualms with lab stones, go for it! I considered lab stone sides too until I went in another direction. If the idea of lab stones bother you though, I’d spring for mined
 

Tourmaline

Ideal_Rock
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I think a solitaire would be prettier, especially if you’ve given up on using your mom’s baguette.

Regarding the guy having a strong opinion, my husband pushed me to get a modern cut stone when I really wanted an old cut. I got what he wanted, and it never felt right. I reset it 5 times and then finally sold it. Now I have the old cut I always wanted, and he’s happy that I’m happy with it.
 
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
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I actually really like the skinny trap sides. It’s a little edgy, kinda sexy, and distinctly modern. From what I recall, it was that style that originally drew OP to LM, and it was a nice concession between a more classic, simple style that her boyfriend trends towards, versus that inner edge lord babe that is @Mary Queen of Scotch …(forgive me if I am misremembering)

Inner Edge Lord Babe = dream aesthetic
 

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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The long skinny traps make my heart skip a beat and totally agree with what @Cerulean posted!

"I actually really like the skinny trap sides. It’s a little edgy, kinda sexy, and distinctly modern."

Are those last baguettes going to be long enough after the recut? I dont know how much length you
lose (or if you dont lose any) during the recut. If you dont lose any (or much) they look good to me.
Since your main stone is LD then I dont think its an issue to have LD sides. It wouldnt be for me but YMMV!

Keep us posted!
 

LLJsmom

Super_Ideal_Rock
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If it were me, I would just go for it and whatever with the budget. Since your BF vetoed the cheaper horizontal e to parred baguettes, vertical it is. It’s your ering and your center is a non-mined stone. I would stick with all mined stones and spend the extra to get the whole look you want with a center as substantial as you have.
 
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
120
Sorry I’ve been so terrible about replying to everyone’s very thoughtful comments! I’ve been meaning to, but was traveling for work the last few weeks and have been slightly crazed.

Firstly, some updates from Leon:

The side stones are recut and ready to rock! At the outset, he wasn’t sure what the timeline would look like because apparently the cutter (at least the one he initially chose) had never worked with lab before. And, at least according to Jon/DG’s site, there are differences between cutting natural vs. lab rough, lab being more difficult.

When Leon told me he got the finished side stones (took a little less than 2 weeks), I asked, “well, do we love them?” He said yes. He then sent me 2 potato quality photos. 7813143D-0C0E-4D49-836A-30A0702019FC.jpeg 5FF93788-8D2B-42AB-BC02-672C5B9CB6EE.jpeg
I laughed a little — because, truly, wtf are these photos — and asked if the traps were like...the same size, or if the camera angle was to blame. He assured me that yes, of course, they are the same. And sent potato quality pic #3 as proof:
C77C02D1-46EA-4923-B62A-30AE81851B3E.jpeg
Rachel then emailed me the PO. The most thrilling news is that:
  1. We are under budget! Hark, the herald angels sing!
  2. Leon recommends double claws on the center EC (and 4 claws per trap). I really wanted double claws from the start — I think they show off the shape/chamfered corners better, and I need that extra girdle protection as I talk with my hands — but Leon initially told me he thought single claws would be better. He didn’t have the stone in hand at the time, however. So I’m very glad he’s changed his mind!
We were unable to make my mom’s baguette work. Ditto the little 2mm melee from her 1st anniversary pin. He said it was technically feasible — and was very sympathetic in general to the idea/my desires, and to the recent loss of ma dukes — but explained that we’d have to make the shank 3mm+ in order to make it work, along with other design compromises. Essentially, the ring overall would be less “beautiful,” at least per his aesthetic (which I enjoy and trust).

I know this is all stuff many PSers and other jewelers had already forewarned/pointed out to me, but I needed to give it one last shot! Again, ideas like this get stuck in my head and are very hard to shake. Leon was very sweet in recommending what others have said here — that I use the stones to create a pendant, where they would not risk the damage they might in an everyday ring, and which would always be ~close to my heart.~ A nice combo of practical + corny advice! Doubt I will make a pendant, as I sort of hate necklaces as a general rule, but I have some other ideas floating around...

Overall, Leon has been a pleasure to work with. Very accommodating, politely forthcoming with his opinions, and apologetic (unnecessarily so) when there’s been a hold up of any kind. He’s even said, verbatim, “your wish is my command,” and I’ve had to ask him directly not to do a thing if he thought it sucked (he didn’t). Maybe he’s less invested in perfection as he didnt source the center stone?

In any event — very interesting to look back at the old Leon threads and read very different impressions/experiences. Maybe it’s just a matter of “clicking” with a vendor, or maybe he’s softened with time.
 
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
120
Also — the PO wasn’t mondo specific: 9354DCC8-65CE-41E3-9EB7-D3CA11B43DAA.jpeg
Anything I should insist on specifying in the PO design-wise? Shank width/profile, height, etc. Or do I just do a full on trust fall?
 

tinatark

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jun 2, 2003
Messages
128
Late to the party, but I like the 5 stone! Gives off Camilla Parker-Bowles engagement ring vibes!
 

Cerulean

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 13, 2019
Messages
3,076
Sorry I’ve been so terrible about replying to everyone’s very thoughtful comments! I’ve been meaning to, but was traveling for work the last few weeks and have been slightly crazed.

Firstly, some updates from Leon:

The side stones are recut and ready to rock! At the outset, he wasn’t sure what the timeline would look like because apparently the cutter (at least the one he initially chose) had never worked with lab before. And, at least according to Jon/DG’s site, there are differences between cutting natural vs. lab rough, lab being more difficult.

When Leon told me he got the finished side stones (took a little less than 2 weeks), I asked, “well, do we love them?” He said yes. He then sent me 2 potato quality photos. 7813143D-0C0E-4D49-836A-30A0702019FC.jpeg 5FF93788-8D2B-42AB-BC02-672C5B9CB6EE.jpeg
I laughed a little — because, truly, wtf are these photos — and asked if the traps were like...the same size, or if the camera angle was to blame. He assured me that yes, of course, they are the same. And sent potato quality pic #3 as proof:
C77C02D1-46EA-4923-B62A-30AE81851B3E.jpeg
Rachel then emailed me the PO. The most thrilling news is that:
  1. We are under budget! Hark, the herald angels sing!
  2. Leon recommends double claws on the center EC (and 4 claws per trap). I really wanted double claws from the start — I think they show off the shape/chamfered corners better, and I need that extra girdle protection as I talk with my hands — but Leon initially told me he thought single claws would be better. He didn’t have the stone in hand at the time, however. So I’m very glad he’s changed his mind!
We were unable to make my mom’s baguette work. Ditto the little 2mm melee from her 1st anniversary pin. He said it was technically feasible — and was very sympathetic in general to the idea/my desires, and to the recent loss of ma dukes — but explained that we’d have to make the shank 3mm+ in order to make it work, along with other design compromises. Essentially, the ring overall would be less “beautiful,” at least per his aesthetic (which I enjoy and trust).

I know this is all stuff many PSers and other jewelers had already forewarned/pointed out to me, but I needed to give it one last shot! Again, ideas like this get stuck in my head and are very hard to shake. Leon was very sweet in recommending what others have said here — that I use the stones to create a pendant, where they would not risk the damage they might in an everyday ring, and which would always be ~close to my heart.~ A nice combo of practical + corny advice! Doubt I will make a pendant, as I sort of hate necklaces as a general rule, but I have some other ideas floating around...

Overall, Leon has been a pleasure to work with. Very accommodating, politely forthcoming with his opinions, and apologetic (unnecessarily so) when there’s been a hold up of any kind. He’s even said, verbatim, “your wish is my command,” and I’ve had to ask him directly not to do a thing if he thought it sucked (he didn’t). Maybe he’s less invested in perfection as he didnt source the center stone?

In any event — very interesting to look back at the old Leon threads and read very different impressions/experiences. Maybe it’s just a matter of “clicking” with a vendor, or maybe he’s softened with time.

Lol those photos are wild.

BUT - the good news is, despite appalling photos, I suspect this is going to be one scrummy ring. (Not sure if you watch Great British Bake Off…but in other words, scrumptious.)

I would frankly do a trust fall instead of asking for exact measurements. But I’m not terribly familiar with POs and their necessities.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Aug 14, 2009
Messages
23,060
Glory to the newborn ring!! :bigsmile:


Overall, Leon has been a pleasure to work with. Very accommodating, politely forthcoming with his opinions, and apologetic (unnecessarily so) when there’s been a hold up of any kind. He’s even said, verbatim, “your wish is my command,” and I’ve had to ask him directly not to do a thing if he thought it sucked (he didn’t). Maybe he’s less invested in perfection as he didnt source the center stone?

In any event — very interesting to look back at the old Leon threads and read very different impressions/experiences. Maybe it’s just a matter of “clicking” with a vendor, or maybe he’s softened with time.
Your experience with him mirrors all of mine. And I don’t believe for one moment that he’s less invested because he didn’t source the stone - he takes pride in everything he stamps his brand on ::)

I find him to be a pleasure to work with and talk with. He’s always been helpful, understanding and willing to explain. He has opinions, sometimes strong opinions, but he’s willing to go “your way” if you feel strongly (and what you’re asking for isn't off the charts”. I occasionally have trouble getting him to voice a recommendation too.

He wouldn’t much patience for a client who wanted to dictate every last microdetail. I think a successful working relationship with him demands that the customer trust is his expertise - provide preference on direction and trust the expert on fine details of execution.


Also — the PO wasn’t mondo specific: 9354DCC8-65CE-41E3-9EB7-D3CA11B43DAA.jpeg
Anything I should insist on specifying in the PO design-wise? Shank width/profile, height, etc. Or do I just do a full on trust fall?
If you want something specific like a pinched shank, or a 3mm wide shank not a 2.8mm wide shank, I’d talk with him about those particulars. But in terms of why you want those things, not just that you want them. Like… If you want the shank to match the width of another band. You’ve got a good rapport with him, you can yourself and your relationship ::) I’m personally inclined to just let him do his thing.

But I’m also the sort of person who will comfortably spend a fair bit (with a trusted vendor!) on a custom project with no PO and no idea of final cost outside of a general ballpark, so take with salt and all that.
 
Last edited:

blingmeupscotty

Shiny_Rock
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Dec 12, 2016
Messages
286
This is LM we're talking about here. Not ..a corner mom and pop shop. It is the stuff dreams are made of missy! I beg you.. I implore you.. DO NOT SETTLE..do not rush this process, you will regret it. If you want traps, WAIT for the right traps. Those baguettes? no.. they're not doing it. And you know that you're not going to be happy with them! You would not be on the internet asking complete strangers what they thought if you did lol. Your heart does not sing when you see them.

Wait for the traps..especially with that gorgeous center..stick to your guns and trust your gut and WAIT. Get a stand in gold band, have something sentimental made with your moms diamond in the meantime for your right hand or put it in a band..but do not compromise on those side stones.

xoxo [excited to see what's going to happen!]
 

elizat

Ideal_Rock
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Mar 23, 2013
Messages
3,265
I think that the recut stones look nice.

I would leave it to him to determine the proportions, the width, and the like, unless you really really have specific desires that you are going to be unhappy that are not met. I think that is the reason why you use someone like him, because you are looking for the overall look of an entire piece, rather than the individual details. You are looking for the sum of the parts, with someone like Leon.
 
Joined
May 21, 2021
Messages
120
Really, I do mean to reply to everyone…someday…

This is the look (proportions) you're after right? I think the recut bags will work! That recut was rather fast!

Super fast!

I think they should work, but I’m second guessing (pointlessly, as I think the recut bags are mine, whether I like them or not). The traps l had in mind were I think skinnier/longer (let’s say, face up they’d be 2mm wide and 7.5mm on the long end, 6mm on the short end). The recut baguettes are probably (ballpark) 2.5-3.25mm+ wide, and maybe 7mm on the long side, 5.5 on the shorter side. Probably squatter. I’m at once splitting hairs and talking out of my a** (delightful combination). Anyway, I tried to cobble it together again in the Procreate app, and I think the traps look a bit like ears lol. Choosing to ignore the color difference in this pic.

Maybe they always looked like ears. Maybe they’ll be less earish when angled. Maybe I need a new pastime!

edit: maybe we’re getting the ear effect because they aren’t super tapered/are more squared? Have I lost my marbles? Don’t answer that one.

23899F9D-DEEB-4986-B3FE-B7BA91071140.jpeg 9FFBD318-4396-4E41-B845-4F9CC68CA8F3.jpeg
 
Last edited:

tyty333

Super_Ideal_Rock
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24,280
I think I was hoping they would be a tad longer too but hoping once they are angled some of the width becomes less
noticeable and the length gets more accentuated (hoping).

These are lab stones, right (not too expensive)? I wonder if you're just not sure that you should tell him that you want to see longer?
Questioning Leon's opinion gives me pause though. :eek-2:

Let's see what @yssie has to say on the subject.
 

Lookinagain

Brilliant_Rock
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May 15, 2014
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1,884
It's hard, because we are looking at a flat photo, but to me they look like, once set, and tilted a bit, they will look good. But of course it's you who must think so, not me.
 

SandyK

Shiny_Rock
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Apr 9, 2016
Messages
491
Ugh, this is tough! Fellow step cut lover but definitely not an expert, so hopefully others will chime in, but I do see a difference between the inspiration ring on the left and the mock-up on the right.

I'm assuming that angling the baguettes will make them look a little skinnier, but I don't think it will make them look longer.

I know it is Leon so there is the tendency to just let him do his thing, but I think it is completely fair for you to raise the question and ask whether the baguettes you have are going to give you the look you are going for. This isn't a difference that will be noticeable to most people (and no matter what your ring is going to look killer), but the entire purpose of going to Leon is to nail the overall proportions/look! So I wouldn't be afraid to just ask him and then go from there.

1629386828309.png
 
Joined
May 21, 2021
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These are lab stones, right (not too expensive)? I wonder if you're just not sure that you should tell him that you want to see longer?
Questioning Leon's opinion gives me pause though. :eek-2:
Yes, they are lab. So 30-40% cheaper, but not free ($2200 including recut). No chance my dude will spring for a second pair (more time + more scratch), and I doubt Leon would do an even exchange since they were custom cut (assuming he could even if he could find a suitable alternative tout suite).
 

SandyK

Shiny_Rock
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Messages
491
Yes, they are lab. So 30-40% cheaper, but not free ($2200 including recut). No chance my dude will spring for a second pair (more time + more scratch), and I doubt Leon would do an even exchange since they were custom cut (assuming he could even if he could find a suitable alternative tout suite).

Ok so, at this point then, I would probably not obsess over it! It's really hard to figure out what is going on when relying on mockups, and also when everything is blown up on a computer screen. In real life, the ring is going to be stunning and the gorgeous diamonds and execution are what you are going to see.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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So couple thoughts here.

1. You can absolutely question, disagree with, veto Leon’s opinion. He’s making your ring, you get final say, period!!
He might argue with you. But from working with Leon for three years now - what I’ve gathered is that he really wants his clients to genuinely consider his opinion, evaluate it, and then decide. Vs. customers assuming they know best and dictating all details.

2. The sidestones will be angled. Leon likes a pretty severe sidestone angle, actually (and your finger size would demand that anyway). Things that are closer to the eye look larger - subtend angle - so not only will the sidestones look less wide face-up just because they’re angled away from you, the far length edge of the sidestones will look a touch shorter, as well.

3. The center EC is octagonal - it’s got cut out shoulders. The double-prongs won’t be adding any visual height to the EC because they’re sitting lower than the top (and higher than the bottom) of the stone. The side traps don’t have those cut out shoulders, so the single prongs holding them in place are going to sit above the top of the stone (and below the bottom of the stone). This will visually add a little height from faceup from afar.

It’s all teeny tiny nuances. I would def talk to him and tell him you want your ring to look like X, and send him the inspo pic. And see what he says. He wants you to be happy!!
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Flat blue tape trap:

84723809-9FD4-4042-BC8F-3E872F84C2E0.jpeg


Same tape trap angled about as much as I think your sidestones might be.

A4CE10F4-EF27-4594-865B-DAD0435345FA.jpeg
 
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