So, I found a diamond and tested it in the HCA. It came out with a good score. As a novice to all this “diamond speak”

[Stardusted]

I am curious how you could test it for leakage without the stone in hand? Are there parameters that might give a hint?
At the end of the day, we all want a sparkly rock so spending a chunk of change on a dull disappointment is not the desired outcome.

I found Ritani from this site and I believe I will go with them as their price was much better than JA only I could not find H&A cuts? Attached is the cert and the setting I am considering. I have come to understand a lower color will be fine with a rose gold setting

if you have any pearls of wisdom on my choices (I have not yet cashed out) I would be pleased to hear them


Thanks!

 

[evergreen]

The HCA tests for leakage -- the path of a ray of light in a symmetric modern round brilliant is simple enough that those angles, table size, depth all combine together to give a reliable measure of leakage. Further special imaging, like idealscope, is also helpful in "seeing it for yourself."

I think there's no "super ideal" equivalent in lab diamonds like there is in natural diamond -- and/or, you'd be paying a premium for a spectacularly perfect cut. I'm not sure normal people, casual observers, can tell the difference between an excellent/ideal cut diamond with extra-well-matched angles (i.e., HCA under 2) and a super-ideal. Once a "pretty darn good" cut is achieved, the biggest visual difference is usually in carat weight/spread, above some minimum color/clarity parameters which are very dependent on individual preferences.

I do agree with your strategy of choosing a diamond from the place you'll get your setting, though! JA has great prices on solitaires without diamonds and they're doing a 25% off settings sale right now. Ritani's diamonds do seem like they're a little more competitively priced, though! For the person who's going to be wearing the ring: what's most important to her? The setting, the size, the clarity, etc? That Ritani diamond is very high clarity, which is usually not a visible difference between grades down to VS2 or some lucky SI1s. Value is in the eye of the beholder!

 

[Stardusted]

Thanks for the reply Evergreen. The ring is for me. It is a 30year anniversary present. My husband did not want me to upgrade my original (sentimental to a fault) so I am choosing to wear a “right hand ring” and opting for the engagement styles over a traditional anniversary band

As for my likes, I prefer a warmer tone (original set is 14k) over a platinum and I do love the trend of rose gold so, for a change, I believe I will enjoy the pinkish hue of the metal

I like fire…I do not really like a grayish dark stone

 

[evergreen]

Lovely! So: what is the lowest color you are comfortable with? (For me, it would be an I, but I am not color-sensitive! I haven't found a Ritani stone with blue nuance, so they are all either brown- or yellow-tone; brown hides color well and looks amazing with rose gold, but some people don't like it.)

Set your minimum color and max budget with the sliders. Then, I'd filter for stones with a table of 58% or below, so you can get a higher crown which will yield better fire, and restrict to ideal cut. "Ideal" on IGI certs isn't really PriceScope-adequate, hahaha, so you won't be able to stop there, exactly. Once you've set minimum budget, table, and cut, sort by "visual carat", high to low. Look at the top hits: they are likely to be SI1/SI2 stones. If that clarity bothers you, set the slider to limit low-clarity stones; VS2 and above should be pretty safe.

THEN go back to the top candidates for size, make sure you're OK with their inclusions and, for example, the visual width of the arrows (=lower girdle facets; I like big chunky arrows!). Narrow down your top 3-4 and either post them here, or run them through the HCA yourself. (I don't know if anyone who frequents the LGD forum has unlimited HCA tries, but maybe!)

 

[Stardusted]

Very helpful. Thanks! Yes, H or I color would be my lowest. For clarity, I do not want any visible with naked eye so I typically go vs1 for the lowest.
The bit about the arrows, I don’t think I know enough to discern it? I do look for inclusions in the magnified view. I also noticed there arent any H&A cuts so that is the part that I question. I love the depth of a rainbow sparkle

I love Ritani settings over JA. Maybe I should call and inquire about any H&A cuts as I have read a few others posts about them getting a stone or two from them with H&A

 

[evergreen]

H&A *probably* (this is my guess!) comes down to practically perfect optical symmetry. I don't know how much that "perfection" means for noticeable sparkle -- i.e., if an otherwise highly symmetrical stone with complementary angles has one heart with slightly more cleft than another, it misses H&A but would still be an excellent performer. RockyTalky often uses the term "mind-clean" -- as in, if it needs an H&A designation for it to be "mind clean" for you, that's fine, but you may not realistically notice a visual difference. But, it's certainly worth calling Ritani to ask if they have a stone in inventory that met H&A designation.

Clarity has "mind clean"-ness, too. For me, a VS2 with a non-black inclusion is probably not visible with the naked eye (my eyes are 30-hrm-hrm years old, and diamonds are SPARKLY, haha, so I just literally can't see it -- I can't even find the inclusion in the video of this diamond https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.90-carat-j-color-vs2-clarity-sku-1847940 and I DEFINITELY have never been able to find it in real life, hahaha - I've had it for a couple years now, set in a ring!). I am, in fact, completely happy with an SI2/I1 diamond where the inclusion isn't noticeable unless I look for it. There are people on here for whom a VVS2 isn't mind-clean enough. They have to pay a lot for diamonds, but it is what is important to them! The lower the clarity, the bigger the "range" of obvious-ness; so, while "bad" VS2s do exist, they're harder to find, and while "good" SI2s exist -- maybe even ones where you wouldn't be able to see the inclusion! -- they are also going to require a lot of digging to identify. You're on the right track limiting to VS2 and then checking the video carefully to make sure there isn't some little black speck hiding in an arrow.

Re: arrows:
Chubbier arrows: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...olor-vvs2-clarity-true-hearts-cut-sku-5421230
Skinny arrows: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...olor-vvs2-clarity-true-hearts-cut-sku-6120056

(Both are "True Hearts" cut, but they have a different visual effect, where chubby arrows tend to throw bigger chunks of sparkles, and skinny arrows have a glittery effect.)

Definitely look for cuts with a smaller table (58% or less) and a proportionally higher crown (HCA will tell you if the angles are complementary). This often leads to a total depth that's in the upper part of the range, i.e. closer to 62% than 60%, and a sliiiiiightly smaller diameter, since the diamond is relatively deep for its weight, but carrying more weight in the crown will help you get more rainbow sparkle since the light travels a longer path through the (highly refractive) carbon of the diamond before it exits and hits your eyeball.

 

[DejaWiz]

Those proportions and measurements are looking really great for a diamond that would tend to lean on the slightly more fiery side: The taller crown height, the smaller table, the 40.6 PA and the 34.9 CA - looks like it could be an awesome one!

 

[Stardusted]

H&A *probably* (this is my guess!) comes down to practically perfect optical symmetry. I don't know how much that "perfection" means for noticeable sparkle -- i.e., if an otherwise highly symmetrical stone with complementary angles has one heart with slightly more cleft than another, it misses H&A but would still be an excellent performer. RockyTalky often uses the term "mind-clean" -- as in, if it needs an H&A designation for it to be "mind clean" for you, that's fine, but you may not realistically notice a visual difference. But, it's certainly worth calling Ritani to ask if they have a stone in inventory that met H&A designation.

Clarity has "mind clean"-ness, too. For me, a VS2 with a non-black inclusion is probably not visible with the naked eye (my eyes are 30-hrm-hrm years old, and diamonds are SPARKLY, haha, so I just literally can't see it -- I can't even find the inclusion in the video of this diamond https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/emerald-cut/0.90-carat-j-color-vs2-clarity-sku-1847940 and I DEFINITELY have never been able to find it in real life, hahaha - I've had it for a couple years now, set in a ring!). I am, in fact, completely happy with an SI2/I1 diamond where the inclusion isn't noticeable unless I look for it. There are people on here for whom a VVS2 isn't mind-clean enough. They have to pay a lot for diamonds, but it is what is important to them! The lower the clarity, the bigger the "range" of obvious-ness; so, while "bad" VS2s do exist, they're harder to find, and while "good" SI2s exist -- maybe even ones where you wouldn't be able to see the inclusion! -- they are also going to require a lot of digging to identify. You're on the right track limiting to VS2 and then checking the video carefully to make sure there isn't some little black speck hiding in an arrow.

Re: arrows:
Chubbier arrows: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...olor-vvs2-clarity-true-hearts-cut-sku-5421230
Skinny arrows: https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...olor-vvs2-clarity-true-hearts-cut-sku-6120056

(Both are "True Hearts" cut, but they have a different visual effect, where chubby arrows tend to throw bigger chunks of sparkles, and skinny arrows have a glittery effect.)

Definitely look for cuts with a smaller table (58% or less) and a proportionally higher crown (HCA will tell you if the angles are complementary). This often leads to a total depth that's in the upper part of the range, i.e. closer to 62% than 60%, and a sliiiiiightly smaller diameter, since the diamond is relatively deep for its weight, but carrying more weight in the crown will help you get more rainbow sparkle since the light travels a longer path through the (highly refractive) carbon of the diamond before it exits and hits your eyeball.

Your stone is so pretty! I can spot the differences in the arrows, but I don’t know if I have a preference either way. Based on what you are saying, I am going chubby arrows for the chunkier sparkles but it isn’t a game changer for me.
Thanks for all of the information.

 

[Stardusted]

Those proportions and measurements are looking really great for a diamond that would tend to lean on the slightly more fiery side: The taller crown height, the smaller table, the 40.6 PA and the 34.9 CA - looks like it could be an awesome one!

Seems to be what I am after. There is no video of the actual stone on the site so I do wonder why but I have it marked. Thanks for your comment

 

[Stardusted]

Ok. I said I do not like dark grey looking stones but if that is what these are just WOW. I love these and I can only assume they are perfect diamonds. These are not LG though which ever parameter can make the rainbows in the middle of this video is what I am after. Just perfect to my eyes. ( not the cut as I like the round)

 

[DejaWiz]

Ok. I said I do not like dark grey looking stones but if that is what these are just WOW. I love these and I can only assume they are perfect diamonds. These are not LG though which ever parameter can make the rainbows in the middle of this video is what I am after. Just perfect to my eyes. ( not the cut as I like the round)

You'll probably want to stick to the following ranges for an MRB cut diamond that leans fiery:

CA: 34.7-35.5°
PA: 40.6°
Table: 53-57%
Depth: 59.5-62%
Crown Height: 15-16%

...this is just a general guideline, and there is some flexibility (and even exceptions).

Watch out for inclusions that can inhibit light return and performance, such as clouds (usually affecting lower clarity grades and on the cert as "additional clouds not shown" or "clarity based on clouds not shown").

Funny you posted that video while I was browsing DG's lab grown diamonds! You can always reach out to Jon (Rhino here on the forum) over there, and he will help you find a diamond that exhibits the characteristics you are wanting in the budget that you have - and he'll do this whether you buy from him or another retailer.

Click here to check out his diamond concierge service:

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[Stardusted]

Awesome!