Seeking Help re: Antique Diamonds

[glitterglitter]

I'm inexperienced and need some help.

I found an antique setting that I love (pics below). The diamonds were fine - they didn't wow me - but I loved the ring overall. At $3450+tax, it seemed pricey for what it was (let me know if you disagree on this!). I am looking into creating a ring inspired by this one.

INSPIRATION RING - (LOTS more pictures at the bottom of post):
Center stone - .63ct OMC (5.0 x 5.2 x 3.5), I, VS1.
Two side stones - OMC, .4 total ct weight, H-I, SI1.
18K Yellow Gold
$3450 + tax





BUDGET: DK quoted $850 for the mounting. My partner would ideally spend $2000-2500 total, willing to come up to $3000, mayyyyybe $3500. Do you think we can find 3 stones for between $1650-$2150 total? Mayyybe up to $2600. If yes, I welcome links/suggestions!

CENTER STONE: I like the effect of the Inspiration Ring's center stone shape, a square-ish/rounded OMC. I'd prefer OMC, a relatively square Antique Cushion, or similar. Open to OEC if the stone speaks to me, or if it has a chubbier, borderline cushion quality.

SIDE STONE: I like a rounder effect here - OEC, OMC or Transitional.

STONE SIZE: I'm a size 4.5, so the Inspiration Ring fits on my ring finger just like pictured below on the pinky. I'd prefer to go somewhat larger than the Inspiration Ring's 5mm x 5.2mm center stone. Not sure how much additional size my finger can realistically fit, but I figure we could go smaller on the side stones if necessary.



COLOR: I okay with yellow hued warmth, but not green/brown. I'm open to D-J. I might be willing to go warmer than that, depending? I don't know! #newbie

CLARITY: I have no idea. As long as I love the stone, I don't care how it's graded. I don't have a trained eye and I'd like to keep it that way. Pointing out imperfections draws my focus there and and makes me love a diamond it less. As long as it's not distracting my eye, it's clear enough. I will say that the stone in the Inspiration Ring had some darkness at the center which I didn't love...

QUESTIONS​

1. Any vendors we should check out? I know of Jewels by Grace and Old World Diamonds.

2. Any links to possible stones you all would recommend? Particularly center stones?

3. How can I best predict whether I will love something? When evaluating, should I ask for pictures or videos in certain lights? Does loving something in pictures/videos usually translate in person? Obviously I will want to view/inspect once I've narrowed it down, but I don't even know how to do that.

4. I don't see many antique stones in the .2ct range. Is this because sites don't list accent stones or short supply?

See more pictures of the Inspiration Ring below. THANK YOU for any information you can provide!!!

 

[canuk-gal]

HI:

Custom work is never inexpensive.

cheers--Sharon

 

[Lookinagain]

It's a very pretty ring. Going smaller on the side stones may change the look of the ring, so if you like those proportions, I'd stay in the same parameters. Maybe look for a center stone and then depending on it's size, try to find proportionate side stones. You might be able to find a pair of earrings with stones you could use for the sides, or see if DK can source them for you once you find your center. I would definitely also contact Adam at OWD since he seems to have access to many old stones. I love working with DK but if Adam has the stones I would also get a quote from him for the ring.

 

[rockysalamander]

LoveAffairDiamonds and DiamondsbyLauren both have old cuts. Also, IvyRoseVintage/MyDiamondZone. Just stick with GIA graded stones. IvryRose tends to be least expensive.

I think your budget will be very hard to find three diamond in that price and get them bigger. I suggest focusing on the center stone now and a nice 6-8 prong setting Then, add side stones and the custom setting later.

For example.
http://www.jewelsbygrace.com/0-94ct-antique-cushion-cut-diamond-gia-k-sl1

 

[hayley_cat]

Hi -- I know this isn't exactly what you're after, and certainly not the typical PS advice, but it might be worth mentioning; tried this on when looking for e-rings a little while back. This is my local jeweler. They are amazing and I can't say enough about their customer service and attention to detail. Will absolutely let the experts recommend people for custom work, but I wanted to let you know there are options for a similar overall look if you dig and can be a little flexible! https://www.store5a.com/collections/bridal/products/pre-owned-three-stone-diamond-engagement-ring

 

[tyty333]

That setting with stones for $3500 is going to be tough. With almost $1k for the setting (which is reasonable), only leaves $2500 for 3 stones.
You might call mydiamondzone and see what they have that might fit the bill. You will probably have to go low in color (M, N,...).

Here is mydiamondzone on ebay. Some PSers have purchased from him.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/G-VS1-GIA-...014643?hash=item2397b40c73:g:Qd4AAOSw9V1aVSyM

 

[glitterglitter]

Thank you for all these fabulous suggestions!

Looks like My Diamond Zone has some contenders for a center stone and their prices are very reasonable.

OWD has a lot of stock but practically no pictures, which makes it hard to browse. I will reach out to him and see if he has any suggestions.

I'm also going to reach out to DK, OWD and Diamond Zone to see what I would expect to pay for 3.5-4.5mm side stones. I haven't been able to find a single old stone listed online in that size range, so I have no idea what they run. Ultimately, the answer to this question will determine whether I can do this project on budget. There are round brilliant side stones that would work in terms of price, but I don't want to mix in modern cuts.

 

[acv123]

I LOVE the setting. love that you can see metal around the stones from the above view and the prongs are great. I would be inclined to say just buy the existing ring but it looks like its sold . I would try Adam at OWD and see if he can source the stones and make the setting. He has a 6 stone ring that reminds me a lot of this one and I know he's made reproduction belcher rings before. Hope that helps and good luck!

 

[glitterglitter]

It shows as sold because I purchased the setting to try it on. I LOVE the setting but the stones don't sing to me and I thought I might be able to get better stones and do a custom setting for under the $3450 price tag. I am a total setting person, though, so we are considering keeping it.

My concern in going custom is that the setting - which I love - won't look similar enough and won't have the same heart and soul.

I'd be curious to know how close y'all think I could get to the original setting with a custom design with DK, OWD, or similar? I'm going to speak candidly with David about my concerns and see what he says, but with all your experience, I'd be curious to hear your thoughts?

 

[tyty333]

The other option to look for side stones is to look for OEC earrings. Here are some on etsy and ebay. Make sure they are returnable.
Also, ask My Diamond Zone...I'm sure they probably have some smaller OECs or can get some for you.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/585342...opean cut diamond earrings&ref=sr_gallery-1-9
https://www.etsy.com/listing/499552...opean cut diamond earrings&ref=sr_gallery-1-7

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-14k-r...744480?hash=item2a9cb52860:g:81YAAOSwUn9aM-qT

 

[tyty333]

It shows as sold because I purchased the setting to try it on. I LOVE the setting but the stones don't sing to me and I thought I might be able to get better stones and do a custom setting for under the $3450 price tag. I am a total setting person, though, so we are considering keeping it.

My concern in going custom is that the setting - which I love - won't look similar enough and won't have the same heart and soul.

I'd be curious to know how close y'all think I could get to the original setting with a custom design with DK, OWD, or similar? I'm going to speak candidly with David about my concerns and see what he says, but with all your experience, I'd be curious to hear your thoughts?

Oh no...return it if you can! Its better to buy the stones first then have a setting made to fit them, then to try to find 3 stones that fit into that setting.
That can be a tough job!

They (ring makers) can make it very similar but it will be new so it wont have the scratches, nicks or slight imperfections that you might be calling "soul".
If a new setting wont have the feel you're after then that may be a problem. Have you looked at David Klass rings on pinterest or instagram?

Edit...here is a 7 stone made by DK for a pricescoper. You can see that it is an old design.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/mahenge-spinel-and-diamond-7-stone.203939/page-2

Actually, here is a thread of settings DK has made for PSers.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-david-klass-bling.196654/

 

[acv123]

It shows as sold because I purchased the setting to try it on. I LOVE the setting but the stones don't sing to me and I thought I might be able to get better stones and do a custom setting for under the $3450 price tag. I am a total setting person, though, so we are considering keeping it.

My concern in going custom is that the setting - which I love - won't look similar enough and won't have the same heart and soul.

I'd be curious to know how close y'all think I could get to the original setting with a custom design with DK, OWD, or similar? I'm going to speak candidly with David about my concerns and see what he says, but with all your experience, I'd be curious to hear your thoughts?

ohhh that makes sense about it being marked sold. That's great you've gotten to try it on in person. I agree re: custom vs genuine antique. Though i'm very excited to have a custom setting made for my own engagement ring there is a lot of heart and soul in those old settings! I tried this ring on early on in my search: https://www.vermaestatejewelry.com/collections/engagement-rings/products/portland and I still think back to it because the setting had a nice patina to it and I hadn't really seen anything else like it. The style of the prongs reminds me a little of the one you are looking at. I thought about remaking it with a bigger stone but I ultimately decided not to try to remake it because I felt I would always be comparing my reproduction to the original.

To me it seems daunting to try to find 3 stones that match each other in color and cut (even if they are all OMC there can still be a lot of variety) and then also ensure the setting captures the spirit of the original ring. I'm sure if you work closely with any of the vendors recommended here you can get close and get stones you really like. It just may take a while!

 

[tyty333]

CVB would do a great job at that setting...I shouldnt even post this because she is not in budget ($1845 for just setting). I drool over her work!
https://www.etsy.com/listing/494382851/cvb-victorian-style-seven-stone-norah?ref=shop_home_active_43

Edit (cant really tell you much about the stones).
https://www.rubylane.com/item/531554-RDx20374/Vintage-Estate-Art-Deco-3-Stone?search=1

 

[KristinTech]

Ruby Lane has tons of variations of this setting... this one is sold, but it gives you an idea of a recent sale and price point. As others have said, be sure there’s a good return policy. Maybe people can recommend trusted antique vendors there?

https://www.rubylane.com/item/1231960-Ring-783/1-25ct-Antique-Euro-Diamond-5?search=1

Many vendors also accept offers and are willing to negotiate!

 

[glitterglitter]

@tyty333: To be clear, I'm not talking about finding stones to go in the original setting. I'm talking about keeping the original ring and loving it for what it is, even though the stones don't blow me away.

@acv123: This ring is actually pretty polished so there's not much patina. I like the nicks, but they aren't necessary. What I'm referring to when I say soul is... the shape of the prongs feels like it is made for these stones in a time before computer aided design. There's a sense that an artisan had presence with these stones and created a setting just for them, with delightful sweeping motions from the side view, and a subtle gold frame that surrounds the stone when you view it from the top down.

Since I love this exact setting so much, I am wondering how closely a new custom design can resemble the original. I appreciate the link to the sold ring at Ruby Lane and the CVB setting as well. To me, I wouldn't be happy with either of those rings, because they don't have the same design as the original setting. They're similar in style, of course, but to my eye/heart, there are some major differences in the prongs/heads...

 

[glitterglitter]

Also, point taken that getting the 3 stones to match would be an undertaking. I'm definitely considering that piece. Especially because I am ready to be engaged, and at this point the ring is the hold up!

I have asked David how closely he thinks he could come to the original design. We'll see what he says.

Funny, I came here to get info on diamonds, and our conversation has reaffirmed my love for this original setting and made me question whether my original question was even the right one to ask

 

[acv123]

@tyty333: To be clear, I'm not talking about finding stones to go in the original setting. I'm talking about keeping the original ring and loving it for what it is, even though the stones don't blow me away.

@acv123: This ring is actually pretty polished so there's not much patina. I like the nicks, but they aren't necessary. What I'm referring to when I say soul is... the shape of the prongs feels like it is made for these stones in a time before computer aided design. There's a sense that an artisan had presence with these stones and created a setting just for them, with delightful sweeping motions from the side view, and a subtle gold frame that surrounds the stone when you view it from the top down.

Since I love this exact setting so much, I am wondering how closely a new custom design can resemble the original. I appreciate the link to the sold ring at Ruby Lane and the CVB setting as well. To me, I wouldn't be happy with either of those rings, because they don't have the same design as the original setting. They're similar in style, of course, but to my eye/heart, there are some major differences in the prongs/heads...

I guess I meant patina in a "has a lot of history" sense. All those things you like about the original setting are what I saw in the setting of the antique ring I considered. Hard to describe but it just had a look of having been made and shaped by hand, the curves looked human not computer made. And agreed, love the gold framing! Sounds like you found something you really really like. For any designer you may choose to work with I would ask to see original vs reproduction images for reproduction rings they've made. That way you can see if they are able to capture what the wearer liked about the original.

 

[KristinTech]

I’ll be watching this thread closely, as I am also on the hunt for a five stone (or three stone) for our anniversary this fall. I feel your pain about sourcing those smaller carat weights! I do believe many vendors have them, or are able to call them in As needed. It’s one of the reasons why I started looking at three stone anniversary rings!

 

[glitterglitter]

thank you @acv123 for the idea to ask for original vs. reproduction images. That's a great idea! Just emailed David

There really is something incredible about something that's hand made.

 

[LightBright]

It's a very pretty ring. Going smaller on the side stones may change the look of the ring, so if you like those proportions, I'd stay in the same parameters. Maybe look for a center stone and then depending on it's size, try to find proportionate side stones. You might be able to find a pair of earrings with stones you could use for the sides, or see if DK can source them for you once you find your center. I would definitely also contact Adam at OWD since he seems to have access to many old stones. I love working with DK but if Adam has the stones I would also get a quote from him for the ring.

FYI, Adam’s bench is very good. Their design, execution and finish work are excellent, IMO.

 

[meely]

Could you take this opportunity to have the ring and stones you have bought carefully measured? Making it easier to recreate the original setting at a later date?
I suspect that if you are doubtful about the diamonds now this feeling will only grow.
I wonder if you concentrated on the main stone if matching side stones could be sourced by DK? If you have the ring recreated it will be a reproduction not an antique; to this end have you considered an august vintage round for the centre stone? A different flavour I know to the current ring so perhaps not for you but you could get an amazing performing 'vintage' stone. There are 3 on the website around $1800. That gets you upto $2600 with the $800 setting DK quoted for - enough to get a small pair of side stones?
There is a stunning yellow gold 3 stone on the DK thread by the way.

 

[glitterglitter]

@meely: That was my concern as well, that the feeling of "eh" towards the diamonds would grow over time. It's tough to be in love with a setting but not the stones...

Those August Vintage Round stones are beautiful! I had looked on Good Old Gold and their stones were all larger and more expensive. Glad to get the AV rec. The cushions are beautiful, too. I wonder if I could do a Cushion for the center, and two rounds on the sides. I don't see any AV Rounds that are smaller... hmmmmmmm. I wonder if he could make some for me?

That's a good idea to measure it. I've been trying to track down some calipers so I can give it my best shot. Any other tips for how I would have it carefully measured?

 

[valeria101]

.


IHMO, keep the original.

The diamonds look very appropriate for the setting ... Could not imagine changing anythjng about them (bias beware !)

 

[glitterglitter]

I'm going to do one of two options:
Option #1: Keep the original setting and diamonds intact and enjoy the ring as it is
Option #2: Return the original ring. Source new OMC/OEC diamonds and work with a jeweler to do a trio setting inspired by the original ring.

@valeria101 You understand that i'm not talking about switching out the diamonds of the original setting, correct? I took your post to mean you were advocating I go with Option #1. Am I correct in that reading?

I really do appreciate everyone's input!

 

[valeria101]

Yes !

Voting option #1.

 

[acv123]

Also, point taken that getting the 3 stones to match would be an undertaking. I'm definitely considering that piece. Especially because I am ready to be engaged, and at this point the ring is the hold up!

I have asked David how closely he thinks he could come to the original design. We'll see what he says.

Funny, I came here to get info on diamonds, and our conversation has reaffirmed my love for this original setting and made me question whether my original question was even the right one to ask

I will say even though the original ring is at the max end of your budget it could be worth it! If you go custom you gotta factor in the hours spent looking for stones, having them shipped, sending them back, traveling to see them if necessary. If I could give myself a "finders fee" it would be like $600 at least in time and hand wringing! When I began my search I didn't factor that the search itself could be expensive. Just a thought!

 

[glitterglitter]

I'm okay with putting in time (although it is definitely not ideal) and I wouldn't really put a dollar value to that, but I hadn't really considered the shipping fees... I wonder how much that would all work out to be. I guess it would depend on how long it takes me to find stones I like...

 

[meely]

@meely: That was my concern as well, that the feeling of "eh" towards the diamonds would grow over time. It's tough to be in love with a setting but not the stones...

Those August Vintage Round stones are beautiful! I had looked on Good Old Gold and their stones were all larger and more expensive. Glad to get the AV rec. The cushions are beautiful, too. I wonder if I could do a Cushion for the center, and two rounds on the sides. I don't see any AV Rounds that are smaller... hmmmmmmm. I wonder if he could make some for me?

That's a good idea to measure it. I've been trying to track down some calipers so I can give it my best shot. Any other tips for how I would have it carefully measured?

No tips on how to measure it I haven't done it, I think lots of photographs from all angles would be one way and yes measure he stones.

To my mind one of the august vintage cushions would look amazing. There was one in particular https://www.augustvintageinc.net/co...0-72ct-k-vs2-august-vintage-cushion-brilliant
appealed the shape would work best perhaps?
I am not sure that he would cut a pair that small, however I perhaps @Matthews1127 would know if this something that Yoram might have? I believe he provided her with some some asschers he already had cut for a ring. He may have something suitable for your ring - worth an ask. I think matching with the sides to the centre will be the most challenging thing if you decide to recreate.

 

[leukolenos]

I know what you mean about the original setting, but to me, if the stones don’t wow you now they never will.

Curious to hear what you heard back from Adam. He has so many stones and I would be shocked if he couldn’t come back with some options for you. When he made my three stone (his bench made the setting too)- he sifted through tons and tons and tons of smaller side stones until I was happy with a pair. He made it really easy and I never felt bad being picky!

 

[tyty333]

I vote option 2 because if the stones dont wow you now they are not likely to wow you down the road and you'll start second guessing your decision. Plus,
I did not realize that this is your engagement ring...that's a bigger idea to me. You need to really love what you got.

I* think if you work with a jeweler (mydiamondzone, or Adam), they'll be able to find you 3 stones that match (close enough). I think if you do it
yourself it will take time, money (postage...when they dont match), and more effort.

Adam has this ring...stone sizes are probably smaller than you want though.
http://www.oldworlddiamonds.com/jewelry-detail.php?id=170&maxpage=4&sort=weight&jtype=r&subtype=