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Ring width integrity?

JHS

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 27, 2016
Messages
1
First post her on the forum.. My girlfriend and I are looking at ring setting and a question has come up on how narrow a platinum band cane be before you have to worry about it bending or losing shape. We are looking at something similar to the link below (Tiffany inspired knife edge solitaire). She is a 5.5 size, so we were thinking 2.5mil tapering down to 2.0mil...

Is there any concern with going below 2.0mil, maybe down to 1.6mil? The stone we are looking at is 8.9x8.9 round. I just want to make sure that the integrity of the ring shape isn't comprimised by making it too narrow.

Any input/guidedance/experience would be very welcomed! Thanks in advance

JHS

https://www.etsy.com/listing/230453061/the-cvb-id-jovyn-classic-six-prong?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=jovyn&ref=sr_gallery_1
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
5,022
I can't speak as a professional, but the issue is not just width, but also thickness. Thickness varies by the profile (see below) of the band and how much metal the designer uses. Some like thick and some like thin bands. If you are buying from CVB Inspired Designs, just ask them. Platinum alloys will vary (lots here about that, maybe someone will post the link). But, in general, for anything less than a comfort fit profile in my personal collection, I don't go below 2.0 mm. I do have vintage rings with thinner gold bands, and I have had one of those crack. I had the ring re-shanked---but that was a 75 year old ring that was probably worn daily before I acquired it.

js_-_wedding_ring_profiles.jpg

I'm sure some of the pros will chime in.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,631
Stick with 2mm or more. I have a Vatche Tiffany repro and mine is pretty much 2mm all the way around. The biggest thing is to ask the platinum alloy used. Because some are harder than others.

The typical alloy used in the US is 95% platinum/5% iridium. That is the softer alloy and the ring will show more scratches and patina.

The two most desirable (harder) alloys are:

95% platinum/5% ruthenium

90% platinum/10% iridium

I'd be sure my ring was made out of one of the harder two. If you use CVB, I know she will usually use the 90/10 because that is what my rings are made of, but you should request it just to be sure.
 

Winks_Elf

Brilliant_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 28, 2008
Messages
1,673
JHS|1472338220|4070697 said:
First post her on the forum.. My girlfriend and I are looking at ring setting and a question has come up on how narrow a platinum band cane be before you have to worry about it bending or losing shape. We are looking at something similar to the link below (Tiffany inspired knife edge solitaire). She is a 5.5 size, so we were thinking 2.5mil tapering down to 2.0mil...

Is there any concern with going below 2.0mil, maybe down to 1.6mil? The stone we are looking at is 8.9x8.9 round. I just want to make sure that the integrity of the ring shape isn't comprimised by making it too narrow.

Any input/guidedance/experience would be very welcomed! Thanks in advance

JHS

https://www.etsy.com/listing/230453061/the-cvb-id-jovyn-classic-six-prong?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=jovyn&ref=sr_gallery_1
Finger size really should not even be a factor when choosing the width of a ring. Whether or not her fingers swell a lot should be. For a wedding band or engagement ring (generally worn daily), choose a ring that is at least 2mm wide. Because the delicate (under 1.8mm wide) shanks have been so popular of late, it can really skew one's perception of shank width. 2mm is still delicate, but wide enough to withstand daily wear. As others have said so wisely, it's not just about the width but the thickness as well. Most of the knife edge bands have a good thickness to them because of the peak shape of the shank. That makes them more durable than a lightweight, flat shank.

I personally wear a Vatche "Grace" engagement ring (2.2mm shank, 18kwg with palladium alloy) and a T&Co eternity band (platinum, channel set diamonds, 2.4mm wide). I've worn both rings for five years now, but I take my engagement ring off a lot of the time so I don't knock the ring about when we're doing things that may either damage my diamond, or my diamond and/or setting could damage what we're working on. My eternity band is the same even thickness all the way around, while my 18kwg engagement ring started to thin at the back of the finger after only a year of wear. I'm hard on my jewelry because of my lifestyle (kids, dogs, horse, first generation Camaro restoration, lots of camping and firewood), so having a durable band is important to me.
 

oldminer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Sep 3, 2000
Messages
6,378
I thought the photo of some of the many shank profiles shapes was good to have as a reference, but the naming of the shapes had problem which I made some edits on to be more useful when describing what you want to any craftsman. The "court" naming or abbreviation, whatever it is, does not register as a normal word for those shapes. Hopefully, this re-characterization will proved more clarity in communication between customers and jewelers without hurting anyone's feelings. No disrespect for the original poster intended and I felt the photo was well worthy of providing help for consumers.

shank_shape_samples_v2.jpg
 

Rhea

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 20, 2007
Messages
6,249
Oldminer|1472474972|4071135 said:
The "court" naming or abbreviation, whatever it is, does not register as a normal word for those shapes.
Court fit in the UK is the same as Comfort fit is in the US. A jeweller here in England might not know what "comfort fit" is. I don't know what it's called in other English speaking countries. Both charts are helpful!
 

oldminer

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Sep 3, 2000
Messages
6,378
Never a day without learning something valuable. Now we know the British and the American terminology for some shank designs. The better you can describe the features of a design, the more certain you are that your communication works for all concerned. THANK YOU for your great clarification.
 

rockysalamander

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 20, 2016
Messages
5,022
Old miner and Rhea. I agree both charts are helpful. Great references for posters from both sides of the pond. :appl:
 
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